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RainCity Spring Cleaning Build

2006, I think so.

Yes, you can use either set of ends S1 or S2 as long your aftermarket exhaust accepts it. Key point is to take note as to where the muffle sits now and get it back in that same place while fitting revised mid-pipe, fit the cut off ends to proper depth and take some accurate measurements cutting new section and fit new section in. Be sure to place top/bottom marks and index lines so that while fitting mid section in, it is returned to the same place each time....

You might consider fitting an o2 bung and (plug it for now) to the header for later use. M18 x 1mm pitch standard O2 sensor size IIRC.

As for the pickup tube seal, cheap insurance in case the pickup doesnt go back exactly where it was. Sucking air is easier than sucking up cold thick oil.

Please no offense if I'm offering TMI as I don't know your skill set, but don't go nuts with the silicone on the pan. A super thin film and only on the outer edge as you don't want blobs of silicone coming free later and making their way into the oil pickup screen plugging it. This would be bad!
 
Scott, I'm going to measure the valves first thing in the morning. The previous owner did them at around 26k but they've always been loud since I've owned the bike and I wanted the peace of mind to know it was done correctly. The bike is at 40k now.

Randy, I will take all the information I can get as I am still very much a newbie! When would you fit a TB sync into the picture? I have all the pieces to build my own manometer but wonder if it might be best to borrow a carbtune from someone. My buddy is going to be doing the welding as he is much more adept than myself (built our rollcage in the Audi in the background). I'm going to have him put a bung in for me as well. What size fork seal driver did you use for your forks? When you installed your block off plates, did you just tie up and leave the wire?

Side question. My left tailpipe, when viewing the bike from the rear looking towards the handlebars always has much more exhaust flow coming out and has more black soot in the tailpipe. This has always surprised me since the left muffler is a direct shot from the midpipe and should in theory have more flow.
 
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Before the sync, check/adjust the valves. Do your exhaust mods and pan. (you should NOT need any sealer on the pan gasket)

I'd probably do a quick sync once forks are on, short of bolting the tank down.

As there's not much left on the bike when you do the valves, pulling the header again and pan I would not do un-less you know /suspect you got crap in there.. An oil change, sure good idea...

I'd probably ride the bike a bit, let the ECU learn again(under all conditions), then do a final, fine tune sync with how the
engine is going to breathing from now on...

With the valves set correctly, you shouldn't see major differences with you gauge that you can't adjust out...

With the muffler, ( I assume 2 separate pipes), my "port"(left) pipe is always "dirtier" than the starboard side.
Perhaps as the flow is faster out the right side with the Y pipe. If it's real sooty, keep an eye on those plugs, sounds like you may be on the rich side...
 
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Yamaha used sealant on the pan from the factory and it's cheap insurance against seepage around the bolts. Automotive - Honda, Toyota, and GM sell very durable FIPG silicone gasket material but none are cheap. Yamaha may too but it likely costs 4x more than those listed above. FWIW I cleaned the bike thoroughly before removing the valve cover, had shims on hand to have it done and assembled the day I started. The fact is no matter how careful you are, some debris is going to be knocked inside the engine...

As I said, I would assemble and ride it at least 25mi and then dump header, pan, install new hardware and then do your TB sync.

JM2C but I would NOT remove the cam gears from the camshafts. All it lead to was getting the engine out of time.

Cam removal:
With the tensioner out you rotate the engine backwards to make chain slack (exhaust side) and the exhaust lifts out right out in seconds.
After swapping shims, drop cam back in pulling chain taught from intake cam, rotate into place (count links from intake to exhaust), rotate crank back CW to TDC, and bam, all three marks line up again. Secure cap bolts completely and move on to the intake if it needs to come out.

Exhaust: My 2bro seem to be equally coated. Perhaps the Y pipe in yours offers restrictions to balance them? It's NBD if more comes out the right. All reference is from rider on seat.
 
Where in then shop manual are you finding anything about sealer on the pan gasket?

I don't see anything about it in ether the Yamaha S1 or S2 shop manual

I know the FJR does not use it (similar set up) as I've changed out the FJR pan (2007 model) before.
 
FinalImpact said:
Exhaust: My 2bro seem to be equally coated. Perhaps the Y pipe in yours offers restrictions to balance them? It's NBD if more comes out the right. All reference is from rider on seat.
Click to expand...

More exhaust comes out the left (port side of the bike, clutch lever side) which I find odd. I'll let you two gurus determine sealant or no sealant :) Couldn't I just flush oil through a few times to get the dirt out instead of running it through the engine?
 
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Best practice is to cover all bases reducing risk of seepage. This includes a thorough cleaning with MAF cleaner for a good bond as oil does not offer prime adhesion. I'm not suggesting use of FIPG instead of the oem gasket, only that bolt holes be sealed as too often they seep without aid. Granted the case halves and electrical grommets are the only specified uses....

Regardless of our opinion, it is up the the owner to decide what choice is best for them.
 
RainCityRider said:
More exhaust comes out the left (port side of the bike, clutch side) which I find odd. I'll let you two gurus determine sealant or no sealant :) Couldn't I just flush oil through a few times to get the dirt out instead of running it through the engine?
Click to expand...

Clutch side is on the right or starboard side (above your rear brake). That right side, at least for my Scorps are straight thru with the Y branching off to the port side..

Pulling the header, pan and doing all that over won't hurt anything, but IMO, is way overkill... (unless the bike is filthy/your sloppy, etc)..
I can gaurentee, NO shop would do that normally unless you asked and paid for it..

As I re-call, (Randy correct me if I'm wrong), FI simply changed the oil with your last valve adjustment. This is the FIRST time any mention was made of removing the pan and header for a simple valve adjustment...

*Another option, is to drain the oil before hand and keep it covered. Do your valve check/adjustment, then pour that oil (which is not contaminated) across the valves / head and let it drain into the pan. It'll flush down any crap, now drain it... Now put in fresh oil / filter.

Personally, I'd clean the upper frame, top of engine, any place dirt can drop, spotless clean. Take care of business...

As for the sealer, it's NOT called for. You'll see Yamaha put a sealer on the gasket already. Can it hurt to add more, only if it oozes into the block.

I've replaced both the rotor cover and cam chain cover on mine (rotor cover 3 times). Sealer is not called for (except where the wires come thru). Same thing, the gaskets have sealer on them already. They are bone dry 20,000 miles later.

Look at your cam chain cover and you'll see you'll be scraping gasket material from the block, cover or both. No sealer

In the scheme of things, it's not a biggon, getting the valves set correctly is...
 
I meant clutch lever side. My scorps are the same, straight through on starboard, y-branch to port. Port side has more soot and more flow despite not being the straight and shorter path.
 
Quote:"Port side has more soot and more flow despite not being the straight and shorter path".

My port side also collects more black than the starboard side, never really noticed one side or the other exhaust pressure. I certainly wouldn't worry about it...

Something else to consider (keep Randy happy!):

**As your pulling the pan anyway for an S1 pan, why not remove the oil and original pan.

Then do the valves, then dump the old "CLEAN" OIL over the valve train etc so it drains out over a larger container flushing out any crap.

Valve cover back on, pan, etc. Everything nice and clean and no repeating oil pan / header removal...
 
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Although not our project, the opinion was asked...
If it were mine to complete:
- Check & Adjust valves, no need to drain oil.
- Assemble verify noises are gone. Yes, start for a minute w/out coolant.
- If all checks out, add coolant, remaining components.
- Ride it for a short bit.
- Pull exhaust and pan. Replace exhaust and pan assembling with new gaskets, seal, sealant (OP decides). ??? Wait or fill w fresh oil /allowing cure time if applicable.
- Weld up midpipe. Fit and assemble remaining components, fluids ect.
- Add oil if cure time was needed.
- Test drive.
- TB sync.

The header and pan come off once and are replaced. Done. The short ride after valve check is for seating, sealing, leak checks. If the top end is good, move on to TB sync after the exhaust is replaced as it will chnage how it breathes.

FWIW having worked at AAMCO Transmissions for 6 years, I've had a pan or two hundred off! As well as hundreds of transmissions rebuilt... Just sayin...
 
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Ended up going skiing instead of finishing the valves. Here's my plugs for what's it's worth. Randy I was going to install a PCFC according to Nels at 2wheeldynoworks here in WA and have him tune it when all is said and done. Do you think that is appropriate or would the CO mode be sufficient?

e026aa7aa62d2ca0f7893732fc29a3ff.jpg
 
The oem fueling is far from optimal for best power delivery. That said a proper map will be in your favor if that is your goal.

One thing that needs said is, my goals changed as I went from what can you do on the cheap to help reduce throttle chop on corner exit to what can I do to bring this thing to life and really wake it up. Then a fuel controller came along and brought us to this point.

If fuel economy is not an issue, get a tune done w new exhaust and you'll be happy.

Ask the tuner what AFR he is shooting for to and get a print out...

As for your plugs, interesting color combo there, like it runs clean as the porcelain is clean and deposit free but the tips are sooty like it sat and idled for a while... maybe?
 
Alright, PCFC ordered. I work with dynos at work and think it will be fun to learn more about the recreational side of things.

Would you replace the plugs?
 
The angles don't allow a view showing wear. If worn, replace them. FWIW the CR9E, no K maintain a stable gap over time. If you don't tinker often, replace them now and if you think you'll be back soon, you could run them.

What kind of work would that be? Job w dyno's??
 
FinalImpact said:
The angles don't allow a view showing wear. If worn, replace them. FWIW the CR9E, no K maintain a stable gap over time. If you don't tinker often, replace them now and if you think you'll be back soon, you could run them.

What kind of work would that be? Job w dyno's??
Click to expand...

I think I'll run with these plugs for now. They aren't too difficult to get at and mine look pretty decent. Are you sure the bung should be 18 x 1.5 and not 18 x 1? I have not even looked yet whether the PCFC works in closed or open loop fashion.

I work in on board diagnostics for PACCAR. I use dynos at work as a tool for testing and calibration of various diagnostics. Its been really interesting learning how to operate the dynos but I have not had the opportunity to do any engine tuning type work. It will be interesting to learn more about the subject while I get the bike tuned.
 
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Any tips on how much force to use when inserting the feelers? I keep thinking I find the right size until I push a bit hard on the size up and get it to slide under. Hard to tell if I'm compressing the spring or not. Is there a ballpark amount of force to use?

On the exhaust side, I can get up to .35mm on cylinder 1, valve 1 starboard. Seems like I may be using too much force.
 
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