RainCity Spring Cleaning Build

[FinalImpact]

Use minimal force. Take two smaller gauges and use them as one, removing a 1/2 tho....

Any chance you read the sticky in the How Too section? Lots of good info on this topic...

 

[RainCityRider]

I reread and watched a few videos. I was definitely using too much force.



Surprisingly, all the valves appear to be within spec. I made a couple passes to get these numbers and will double check once again tomorrow. I don't know what I was expecting since the PO did the valves 14k ago.

Randy, do you have any measurements for your exhaust? My friend who is a very talented fabricator is going to be doing the cutting and welding but I want to set him up with the right information. I figured I'd just bring him the two sets of headers and midpipes and let him get the right length for the mid pipe.

 

[FinalImpact]

No help there sorry. But seeings you have a complete S1 setup there, it's as simple as whatever you cut out, you put back keeping all the angles the same. And be sure to retain the lower clamp index and not clock it in a bad angle like pointing the bolt into the swing arm....

Depending on resources, one could clamp or fixture both ends tacking them down, cut out the middle and drop in the ah test-pipe....

You get the pan on it yet?

 

[RainCityRider]

No help there sorry. But seeings you have a complete S1 setup there, it's as simple as whatever you cut out, you put back keeping all the angles the same. And be sure to retain the lower clamp index and not clock it in a bad angle like pointing the bolt into the swing arm....

Depending on resources, one could clamp or fixture both ends tacking them down, cut out the middle and drop in the ah test-pipe....

You get the pan on it yet?

Thanks for info, should be relatively straightforward. My friend did the whole cage in our race car (the Audi in the background) so this should be cake. I'm going to put the pan on this evening, and hopefully make some progress assembling the r6 forks.

 

[RainCityRider]

Final what did you do about the difference in rear mounting points on the header?


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[FinalImpact]

Yer gonna chuckle; bought an S1 hanger mount, sandblasted it, powder coated it and never installed it. S1 parts and mine seemed to need a spacer between the frame an hanger.

You should be fine....

 

[RainCityRider]

Thanks, that's good to know!

Pan is coming off now.

 

[RainCityRider]

After very carefully redoing my valve check I have values that I'm confident in.

Turns out I have one exhaust valve too loose and another that is too tight. I'm glad I checked again.

Here are the values:

View attachment 67925

 

[RainCityRider]

Am I a tooth off?

 

[FinalImpact]

Looks off. Put the crank on TDC /case split and look at the marks up top. You'll see if it's a full tooth or not.
Then ask yourself how close was it when you started???

Mine looks just like that but it is that way as the trigger wheel is advanced an additional 6.5° over stock.

Put the crank on TDC and snap a picture of the cams position. If the exhaust is out of sight one full tooth, time to go back in.

Good luck! Found some shims eh?

 

[RainCityRider]

Yeah, it's off one. Dang, it's tricky because when I put the exhaust cam back I have a bunch of slack between the gears. When I bolt the cam in the chain has twice pulled out and sits between the teeth. With the tensioner released I have to turn the crank to get it to settle in and I've been off a tooth twice now. Anyways, I'll take another stab at it in the morning.

The previous owner gave me a hot cams kit when I bought the bike. Only two valves were out of spec but why not do the job when I'm already in there.


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[RainCityRider]

Bye bye kitties!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Bye bye kitties!

Someone did a really nice job on those welds, bung, etc

 

[RainCityRider]

Someone did a really nice job on those welds, bung, etc

Wish I could take credit! My beads look like crap. The guy that did them just finished building his LS3 Miata :thumbup:

 

[RainCityRider]

Looks off. Put the crank on TDC /case split and look at the marks up top. You'll see if it's a full tooth or not.
Then ask yourself how close was it when you started???

Mine looks just like that but it is that way as the trigger wheel is advanced an additional 6.5° over stock.

Put the crank on TDC and snap a picture of the cams position. If the exhaust is out of sight one full tooth, time to go back in.

Good luck! Found some shims eh?

I'm second guessing. Looks like a tooth off but I'm not sure. Of course the one thing I didn't snap a pic of was everything beforehand, ugh! Thoughts?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Close but not sure...

First, make sure the crank / block marks are dead nuts on.

Take ALL THE PLAY out of the chain on the FRONT RUN (all slack at the rear).

Then line up the exhaust cam mark to the head surface (chain taught)

With the chain taught across the top run, now drop /line up the marks for the intake cam.

Obviously ALL slack will be picked up by the CCT, (rear run)...


*** That chain may be stretched if the crank is dead on and the exhaust cam mark is several degree's, COUNTER CLOCKWISE from the edge of the head.**** Now would be the time to replace if in doubt...


It does appear that way with the exhaust above the head surface and the intake mark isn't even see(below the surface)..



.

 

[RainCityRider]

Okay, I redid everything. Lined up at the crank at TDC. I pulled both cams this time. Dropped the intake in and lined the mark up flush with the head mating surface.Dropped the exhaust cam in, lined it up and got all the slack to the rear. I carefully tightened the bolts checking to maintain all chain slack to the rear. Unfortunately it appears I ended up with the same result:





The intake mark is a hair under the lip and the exhaust side a hair above when the crank is at TDC.





I don't think it could be one link off. I didn't think about the chain stretching, but that could be a potential. I'm about 90% this is how it looked before I took it apart as well.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

With that chain (it is stretched a little bit), that's the best your going to get, (your lined up).

***With all the mods, timing, etc, you plan on doing / have done, I'd replace that chain. Check the sprockets and very likely replace the rear chain tensioner guide, (rear) that gets a bunch of pressure with the chain and CCT working against each other.


There is NOTHING ELSE between the crank and exhaust cam to have that NOT line up, period.


If you wanted to see (just for S&G's), you could move either cam a tooth and see REALLY HOW FAR OFF THEY ARE THEN...

How many miles on the engine?

 

[FinalImpact]

Its in and aligned as best you can. A full tooth would be a huge jump and very obvious....

Looks like your pipe is done, one question, the bung is out the back, will it clear the tire?

Did you say 36k on the bike? A new Chain would be a good choice, if not now, plan on changing it at 50k.

And if you want the most from it, the chain stretch retards the cam timing which doesnt help your cause.

 

[RainCityRider]

Its in and aligned as best you can. A full tooth would be a huge jump and very obvious....

Looks like your pipe is done, one question, the bung is out the back, will it clear the tire?

Did you say 36k on the bike? A new Chain would be a good choice, if not now, plan on changing it at 50k.

And if you want the most from it, the chain stretch retards the cam timing which doesnt help your cause.

I was wondering how long it would take you to notice the bung placement. That was a miscommunication between my friend and I. I wanted it put on the side and rotated approximately 10 degrees more towards the rear of the bike than your setup. Sent my friend pictures of your bike but apparently wasn't quite clear enough. Not sure if it will clear the tire or not as I haven't seen the pipes in person. I also don't know how difficult it would be to patch and relocate, or how detrimental hacking it up might be to flow characteristics. I was planning on running it plugged for now as I'm not sure if the tuner will run closed loop or not.

As far as the chain goes, I'll order a new one. As a senior in mechanical engineering I'm a bit miffed I didn't consider the chain stretching over time. For reference the bike has just under 40k miles on it.

If you're curious here she is from the previous owner.

Scott, are you referring to Part 12? You mentioned somewhere you need a specific tool for checking plug gap? Can you not use regular feeler gauges?

Also, is it possible to upload multiple images at once instead of one at a time?