RainCity Spring Cleaning Build

RainCityRider

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Alright guys, it's finally time I start contributing some content around here. Here is a long overdue introduction of my bike. It looks a little rough around the edges after being knocked over by a lady leaving a parking spot. Definitely in need of some TLC. I've been looking forward to doing some maintenance and upgrades and finally have a little bit of time. Goals are:
  • Install r6 forks
  • Stainless steel brake lines
  • Replace cracked fairing
  • Adjust valves
  • Sync throttle bodies
  • Coolant flush
I also have an s1 header and am hoping to decat the midpipe as well if time permits.

IMG_3952.jpg

IMG_3953.jpg

IMG_3954.jpg

IMG_3955.jpg

IMG_3956.jpg

All torn apart:

IMG_3958.jpg

IMG_3959.jpg

IMG_3960.jpg
 
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RainCityRider

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First question. Previous owner installed Rizoma turn signals which you can see are mounted at the bottom of the brackets for the side bags. When I purchased the bike one of signals was non functional despite the PO claiming it worked days before. Few months later I took a look and redid the ground on one of the blinkers and it worked great! Only problem is shortly after that I started to experience my time clock and trip clock would randomly reset every time or every other time I got on the bike. Any idea what could be the problem?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Re-setting of the clock/trip meter is a result of loosing power to the gauge. Either a loose connection, or more likely a failing battery.

Load test the battery(free at most auto parts stores), or you can put a voltage meter on the battery when cranking. A good battery should show about 12.8 sitting. Cranking, it'll drop roughly to maybe 11 volts.

Yours, loosing the clock, is likely dropping WAY BELOW that, probably 6-8 volts..

The signals and loosing the clock are very likely two different issues...


Just curious, looks like you tore the bike down a bit far for your mods.... ???
 

RainCityRider

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I'll check the battery and take a look at the connections. I did notice for the first time that when I started the bike to move it over to my shop the gauges were flickering. The tach would drop to 0 then come back to idle, and err-1 came up for a moment then vanished. Seems like it may be loosing power.

As far as taking the bike apart, I wanted to do a bit of deep cleaning, buff all the plastics, pull the exhaust, inspect the clutch cable, etc. What did I remove that made you wonder?
 

FinalImpact

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Agree with above.... two seperate issues.

Observation; although the FZ can balance on the rear tire and center stand with the forks and fairing removed, I would NOT suggest relying on a hydraulic jack to keep anything up long term as you may get a big surprise when your bike is on the ground after the jack bled down....

You get the rear brake issue sorted out?
 

RainCityRider

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Good tip on the jack. I used straps last time to support the bike from the ceiling. Will have to rig up something more sufficient.

Here was my setup last time with a bunch of ballast in the boxes:

f737c124c731923b4771af77a2466d7d.jpg


I have not sorted out the rear brake but it's on the list. In the air everything lines up pretty decent.
 
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FinalImpact

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As of this moment the forks and fairing are off of mine and I saw that upon removal of the remaining fork the CG (center of gravity) allowed it to settle on the rear... In a controlled environment I'd leave it, but there are critters and wood is abundant. Simply press on the seat and push a stack of 2x4" under the header. Problem solved.

Currently there is a thick blanket on the tank in case something flies through the shop. My thought when leaving her was that blanket would also make a nice roost for that damned cat and that could be unfavorable. lol
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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A simple, screw, scissor jack (likely in the trunk of your cage), fits nicely under the header and won't bleed out.

I have one from an old crown vic (with a block of wood attached to the top) that seen more of my header than the Crown Vic... Very steady....
 

RainCityRider

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Bonus picture of all the parts laid out. No idea about what order to go about this. Three biggest things are valves, r6 forks, and exhaust.

IMG_3961.jpg

On a side note, anyone have a carbtune I could borrow with shipping paid both ways? Do the r6 forks take a 43mm fork seal driver like the stock forks?
 

FinalImpact

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Sounds like a plan. Do them with "this exhaust", fire it off, warm it up make sure all is well with it a bit more quiet as the S1 header will make it louder.

Where did you find a black S1 pan? Nice find!

After running it a bit, maybe 25 to 50 miles, drop the oil, header, pan and get anything out knocked in from valve adjustment.... Install the new pan, header, oil and move on....

JM2C grab a new pan gasket and the oil pick-up tube seal to the pump. If it leaks air you fry the engine. Also you need a super low scale torque wrench for the pan bolts. Last little bit, you have an S1 decat pipe to toss in there?

Have fun!!!
 
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RainCityRider

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I got the oil pan and headers from thisisdylan's part out. Didn't realize the pan was black until today. Was that only on 2006MY? Here is the soon to be midpipe:

51192292293__AEF9DE20-5DDF-47EC-8951-8975C1FE5241.jpg

Randy, when you deleted the cat in the midpipe did you use the stock ends, s1 ends, or a combination of both?

Made it to the valves!

IMG_3977.jpg

Found some lovely wiring from the PO I will have to clean up:

IMG_3975.jpg

Here she is at the end of day 2:

IMG_3980.jpg

I have a new pan gasket but didn't realize I need a seal for the pickup.
 
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