What is the best Oil.

[sportrider]

Re: First oil change

make sure whatever oil you use doesn't say energy efficient on it or your clutch will slip. I'm a fan of Yamalube I'll turn 15000 miles tomorrow and I haven't had a problem.:thumbup:

 

[reiobard]

Re: First oil change

I've been currently taking a scythe to the newest quest: OIL.

I learned a very interesting point from a couple of WHITE BEARDED people. They said your first oil changes are very important on a new engine.

Here's what you should do.

Grab your OWNER'S MANUAL and look at the ENGINE BREAK-IN PERIOD. It'll say you shouldn't have high RPM's for a long period of time. The reason for this has something to do with the WELDING.

I was like: What do you mean by WELDING?

They were like: Japanese people designed the engine to have tighter points than required.

I was like: You mean like girls?

They were like: Yes. Virgin points are really enclosed...

I was like: ...and after they get impacted for a prolonged time...

They were like: ...they get looser.

-Okay! So a virgin engine has tighter points, causing more friction, generating more HEAT!

(At this point, I thought the subject was getting very immature. I LOVED IT!!)

After a time, the engine will BREAK-IN, causing connecting points to loosen, causing less friction, generating less HEAT!

--Claud said it wasn't funny. I thought different...

REGULAR OIL is grainy and allows BREAK-IN to happen properly.
SYNTHETIC OIL is smooth and DOESN'T allow BREAK-IN to happen.

---What happens if I use Synthetic Oil?
Your engine won't BREAK-IN, but it will generate MORE HEAT.

---What's the best solution?
Use REGULAR OIL during the initital BREAK-IN period, then switch to SYNTHETIC after that!!

Ok, so your two have swayed me, what am i on the lookout for with any oil, i know there is one rating in particular that i can't think of that is bad for MC tranny's. what is the forbidden rating?

 

[sportrider]

Re: First oil change

Ok, so your two have swayed me, what am i on the lookout for with any oil, i know there is one rating in particular that i can't think of that is bad for MC tranny's. what is the forbidden rating?

API/ SM energy conserving

 

[FZ1inNH]

Re: First oil change

Until it is broken in, you are pretty much OK with most non-detergent SAE oils. The detergent additives do damage to the clutch plates thus staying away from those. Most any auto oil will work. I just use the Texaco brand by the case from BJ's Wholesale until I can put that first good load of Rotella or Mobil One in!

What weight is the synthetic you bought?

 

[reiobard]

Re: First oil change

Until it is broken in, you are pretty much OK with most non-detergent SAE oils. The detergent additives do damage to the clutch plates thus staying away from those. Most any auto oil will work. I just use the Texaco brand by the case from BJ's Wholesale until I can put that first good load of Rotella or Mobil One in!

What weight is the synthetic you bought?

15-40, i can use it in the wifes car that burns oil like a SOB, or just return the stuff and buy good stuff for my next service, I went over my 600 miles and wanted to "make up for it" on my next change so i was going to cheap out this change and do it again next weekend...

 

[Raid The Revenge]

Re: First oil change

I use CASTROL 10W 40 SAE motorcycle oil for REGULAR.

I use MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC or AMSOIL SYNTHETIC [10W 40] motorcycle oil later.

--Synthetic is more expensive.

 

[FZ1inNH]

Re: First oil change

The manual calls for 20w-40 over 60 degrees and 10w-30 under 60. I split the difference and use 10w-40. The '05 never had a problem with this at any temperature. I think you would be just fine with the 15w-40 synthetic since it is slippery enough but you'll want to make sure you've gone over the 1500 mile mark.

 

[wolfc70]

Re: First oil change

Ok, i know i am cheaping out on this but i am looking to do my 600 mile service myself. I got the oil filter but am thinking of using Supertech synthetic oil for this service,

now before the flames fly, i am planning on doing another change in another couple hundred miles and would like to know if the Supertech Synthetic is going to be the wrong kind for the bike transmission.

any knowledge on that oil? I tried the search and there are a few using the filter but nobody using the oil, whats the reasoning?

Any oil that has the starburst symbol that says "energy conserving" has friction modifiers, and will be bad for the clutch.

The 15w-40 is a heavy duty (diesel) weight and most likely is not SL or SM rated. Synthetic will work fine, many cars come with synthetic oil as factory fill, and have no ill effects from break in. Your rings are seated by now so any "wearing in" will occur slowly over the next couple thousand miles.

SuperTech is a good oil, nothing to brag about, but a good oil. The SuperTech filters are very good.

Run what will allow you to sleep at night, any oil will work as long as it is not too thin or too thick.

 

[wrightme43]

Re: First oil change

I agree. Synth oil is fine now. The argument that synth does not allow breakin to occur is odd if you think about it. It just may take longer, but the same thing will happen. It cant not happen. The parts have no choice but to wear together and mate up. (LOL)
Engines now are built to such tight tolerence that the old ways, are the old ways for a reason.

Many engines run thier whole lives on synth oil.
Mine was switched at 250 miles.

 

[Raid The Revenge]

Re: First oil change

I agree. Synth oil is fine now. The argument that synth does not allow breakin to occur is odd if you think about it. It just may take longer, but the same thing will happen. It cant not happen. The parts have no choice but to wear together and mate up. (LOL)
Engines now are built to such tight tolerence that the old ways, are the old ways for a reason.

Many engines run thier whole lives on synth oil.
Mine was switched at 250 miles.

I agree with that for the most part. One time, I managed to dip my hands into two seperate vats of oil. One was regular and the other was synthetic. I rubbed my fingers together and I will say right now...synthetic oil was WAY different!

After that, I chased after everyone in the place with my arms out. It was funny.

 

[wrightme43]

Re: First oil change

I agree with that for the most part. One time, I managed to dip my hands into two seperate vats of oil. One was regular and the other was synthetic. I rubbed my fingers together and I will say right now...synthetic oil was WAY different!

After that, I chased after everyone in the place with my arms out. It was funny.

Well that is just perfectly normal. I mean once you have the oil on your hands you are required to chase people around with it. Its the only logical thing to do at that point. :Sport: thats what this guy is doing.

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Re: First oil change

REGULAR OIL is grainy and allows BREAK-IN to happen properly.
SYNTHETIC OIL is smooth and DOESN'T allow BREAK-IN to happen.

Wrong... Where did you learn this crap? Corvettes roll off the assembly line use Mobil 1 synthetic. It is a common misconception that synthetics can't be used until break-in (which by the way 90% occurs by 100km or so) is complete.... I switched to synthetic 100kms in my new FZ6 and it now has 2000.... Read below...

Brief Introduction

Along with keeping things adjusted properly, using a good quality motor oil and changing it regularly is the key ingredient to keeping your motorcycle running happily for a long time. You cannot go wrong using one of the various "motorcycle-specific" oils, now available also from some of the major oil companies. However, many motorcyclists object to the higher prices of those oils and for convenience prefer to buy oil at their local automotive supply store, which is a still a good option. This article will provide you with information to make an informed choice.

Price of Motor Oil

So how do you make an intelligent choice? Will $1.00 a quart automotive oil work okay or do you need to pay $4 to $12 a quart for "motorcycle" oil? You have to answer that question yourself, but here are a few facts to help you make the best decision for your situation.

The owner's manual of your motorcycle probably says something very similar to the following:


Use only high detergent, premium quality motor oil certified to meet API Service Classification SF or SG (shown on container). The use of additives is unnecessary and will only increase operating expenses. Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives as they may adversely affect clutch operation." That's pretty clear. But what do you do since automotive oils now say on the container "meets SL Service?" That's easy! By consensus of the API and the manufacturers, the current SL classification meet all requirements of SF, SG, SH, and SJ plus all earlier API gasoline categories. The current SL actually offers some additional benefits over the older classifications. So, if the motorcycle requirement says "SG", be confident that "SL" indeed meets that requirement.
The Vanishing Zinc and Phosphorous

It is a fact than many SL oils now contain lower levels of ZDDP (the zinc/phosphorous extreme pressure additive) and that is a big concern to a lot of motorcyclists. ZDDP is a last resort protection against metal-to-metal contact. Whereas a few years ago the zinc level was typically 0.12% to 0.15% in SG automobile oils, some SL oils now have as little as 0.05%. However, this in itself may not be a problem since normal operation of a motorcycle on the street would never result in metal-to-metal contact any more than it would in your automobile. Remember these SL oils meet the most demanding protection requirements of modern, high-reving, powerful 4-stroke automobile engines (among others). And there is no reason to believe the lubrication requirements of street motorcycles is measurably different.

However, if you race you probably need higher levels of ZDDP and should use appropriate oils or ZDDP additives.

NEW Motorcycle Oils

Seeing an opportunity to bridge this perceived gap between motorcycle oils and automotive oils, many traditional oil marketers like Castrol, Mobil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Valvoline now sell their own "motorcycle" oils at very competitive prices, and alongside their automotive oils. I have found them at several of my local autoparts stores and even at one WalMart store. Call or visit the auto supply stores in your area and ask. Even if they don't routinely stock them, they probably can order a case for you at substantial savings because their mark-up is generally quite a bit less than motorcycle shops.

Although not a motorcycle oil, oils with the designation "Racing Oil" are not intended for street use, generally meets "SG" requirements and has somewhat higher levels of additives, like ZDDP. An example is Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil available in 20w50 weight. These should work fine in our motorcycles.

Energy-Conserving Oils

Some are concerned that the new "energy-conserving" motor oils may have "friction modifiers" which will cause clutch slippage. Since that is a legitimate concern it is best to use only oils which are NOT "energy-conserving for motorcycles with wet clutches." Read the back of the container. It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.

It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order.

Synthetic or Conventional

What about synthetic vs. semi-synthetic vs. "dino" oils? All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal (non-extreme) use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice.

Real World Test Results

Are there any "real world" examples of long motorcycle engine life using automotive oils? There is a good one in the June 1996 issue of Sport Rider magazine in a report called the "100,000 mile Honda CBR900RR." The owner used conventional Castrol GTX oil, 10W40 in the winter, 20W50 in the summer. He changed it every 4,000 miles, changing the filter every OTHER oil change. No valve clearance adjustments were required after the initial one at 16,000 miles. And a dyno test against the same model with only 6,722 miles showed torque and horsepower virtually identical. The 100,000 mile bike was even used for some racing. In a subsequent follow-up, the same CBR had passed 200,000 miles and was still going strong! Plus, many motorcyclists have emailed me with their very positive results using nothing but automotive oils for years in a variety of rides. Oils have changed over the past 10 years, but that just means we need to be more careful in our choices.

Frequency Asked Questions

What is a reasonable oil-change interval?

Most manuals recommend not to exceed 8,000 miles after break-in. But short-trip riding is considered severe service and the most common oil change interval is 3,000 to 4,000 miles. However, a long trip is the easiest service for the oil and going 6,000 to 8,000 miles between changes while on a cross-country ride is routine. Also, the use of synthetic oils can easily double the oil-change interval.


Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1,000 miles, prolong the life of the engine?

Not very likely, because even at 3,000 to 4,000 miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money.


What about the claims that motorcycle-specific oils contain "special polymers which are resistant to breakdown caused by motorcycle transmissions?

Oils usually require the addition of polymers, called VI improvers, to create a multi-viscosity oil, like 10W-40. Whether it is a motorcycle oil or an automotive oil, all polymers are subject to some degradation in the transmission. Full synthetic oils tend to have less polymer than conventional oils and therefore degrade less.


Why are motorcycle oils so much more expensive than automotive oils?

Cost of doing business is higher per quart of motorcycle oil. Large oil companies make so much more product that their profit margin per quart does not have to be so high. That's why the newer motorcycle oils being marketed by some oil companies are only marginally more expensive than their automotive counterparts.


What about the claims by specialty motorcycle oil manufacturers, that their oil is better?

That's a good one. Next time you hear that line, simply ask, "What evidence do you have?" I've never seen any. If you do get any, please let me know! I don't believe that there is any.
Now, armed with all this information, you are ready to make your choice between automotive oil and motorcycle oil. Either will work fine. Your motorcycle probably cannot tell any difference. There are many riders, the author included, who use nothing but good quality automotive motor oils. There also are many who use nothing but motorcycle oils. All indications are that both choices work equally well because motorcycle engines are designed so well that the oil really doesn't make any measurable difference. As long as it meets SG, SH, SJ, or SL service requirements.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Addendum
In the past several years, various reports went around regarding independent studies that showed "automotive" oils that are not energy-conserving (EC) work just as well as motorcycle-specific oil and in many cases better. In former revisions to this article I listed the oils I found locally (Houston, Tx) that were 10w40 and heavier and not energy-conserving. I've discontinued that as it adds little value. All one needs to do is look at the back of the oil container where the lower half of the identification circle will have the words "energy conserving" if it is. Don't use those in wet clutch motorcycle applications, as they may cause clutch slippage. If the lower half of that circle is blank, as all 10w40 and heavier oils should, that means it is NOT energy conserving and should be fine in wet clutch applications.

Heavy-Duty Oils

My favorite oils and the ones I most mostly recommend for motorcycle use, are the "heavy-duty" oils. They are commonly misunderstood, and often referred to as "diesel oils." They are NOT energy conserving, have higher zinc levels, as high as 0.16%, and by virtue of their multi-duty have a better engine protection package than an oil that is only rated "SL". These heavy-duty oils are rated SJ or SL, plus CH-4. They are currently closer in formulation to the motorcycle specific oils and to the "SG" oils that many motorcycle makers recommend. Following are some examples of these oils, generally 15w40 oils by industry convention. There may be several other 15w40 oils that I am not familiar with.

Castrol RX Super 15w40
Chevron Delo 400 15w40
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40
Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40
Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite)
SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40
Valvoline All Fleet 15w40
Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40
Full Synthetics - for Maximum Protection
For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." several of us have received conflicting information on this new "flavor" of Mobil One, but the consensus appears to be that the new SuperSyn has additional friction modifiers and may no longer be a good choice for motorcycles. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One.

A fairly new player in the synthetic market is Shell with Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w50. A number of motorcyclists have reported to me good results so far with his use of the new Synthetic Rotella-T. I put it in my own VFR at my last oil change.

Delvac One should be an excellent motorcycle oil but is generally available only at truck stops or in commercial quantities. For those who may have connections with a long-haul trucking operation, where Delvac One is known to be used in oil change intervals up to 150,000 miles, or even more, you may want to try it if the price is right.

There are a number of other synthetic and semi-synthetic oils available and I have no reason to believe they are in any way inferior. Just follow the advice and use one which is not energy conserving.

Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.

I personally believe in these oils and use nothing else in my motorcycles. As always, you have to make your own, informed decisions.

A Note on Warranties

Since it is generally accepted within the industry that current classifications also meet all older ones, there can legally be no warranty issue. In fact, some oils actually say on the package "SG" in addition to SH , SJ and SL. However, if any of the very newest motorcycles specify oil meeting the new JASO, or other motorcycle-specific oil specifications, and no reference to "SG" or similar automotive specs, then you may have a potential warranty issue so behave accordingly.

And finally, it is gratifying to have received so many emails the past three (3) years from motorcyclists finding this oil and oil filter information useful to them. Keep them coming. I am happy to help, and I plan further updates as things change significantly. Please refer to Oil Filter Alternatives - Honda Motorcycles also by Mike Guillory for a comprehensive review of various oil filters.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Web Master's Note
The author is a Chemist, retired from a major Oil and Chemical Company, after a career in the Quality Assurance of Fuels, Lubricants, and Chemical products. He and his wife both ride.


And here is the link for future reference

Motorcycle Motor Oil

 

[reiobard]

Re: First oil change

API/ SM energy conserving

is it still bad if it says API/SM that is not followed by Energy Conserving?

I made the mistake of heading to the store without knowing what the rating was, (I figured i would recognize it if i saw it). It has been almost a year since buying oil for my bike and a lot of this information has slipped my mind since then, Thank you all.

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Re: First oil change

is it still bad if it says API/SM that is not followed by Energy Conserving?

I made the mistake of heading to the store without knowing what the rating was, (I figured i would recognize it if i saw it). It has been almost a year since buying oil for my bike and a lot of this information has slipped my mind since then, Thank you all.

If it does not say "Energy Conserving", No problem, I would use it. Energy Conserving just means it has "friction modifiers" (what ever they are) that might cause clutch slippage. The key word is might... You'll be fine... I use mobil 1 5W-50 synthetic (you guys in the States have the 15W-50 version) for the last 4 years and 30,000 km on various bikes....

 

[brad81987]

Re: First oil change

Castrol RX Super 15w40
Chevron Delo 400 15w40
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40
Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40
Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite)
SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40
Valvoline All Fleet 15w40
Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40
Full Synthetics - for Maximum Protection
For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." several of us have received conflicting information on this new "flavor" of Mobil One, but the consensus appears to be that the new SuperSyn has additional friction modifiers and may no longer be a good choice for motorcycles. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One.

A fairly new player in the synthetic market is Shell with Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w50. A number of motorcyclists have reported to me good results so far with his use of the new Synthetic Rotella-T. I put it in my own VFR at my last oil change.



Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.

I personally believe in these oils and use nothing else in my motorcycles. As always, you have to make your own, informed decisions.

Quick question as you seem to be extremely knowledgeable on the oil subject. I just picked up my new bike, only have about 20 miles on it. I plan on riding it fairly hard and then changing the oil at around 100 miles. Based on what i'd read here and other places, I'm planning on going with Rotella T 15w-40 for a while and switching to Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 after 1500 miles or so. I'm just curious, are these grades safe for a "midwest ridden bike" where riding temps are probably on average 50-80F?

Thanks

 

[wolfc70]

Re: First oil change

Quick question as you seem to be extremely knowledgeable on the oil subject. I just picked up my new bike, only have about 20 miles on it. I plan on riding it fairly hard and then changing the oil at around 100 miles. Based on what i'd read here and other places, I'm planning on going with Rotella T 15w-40 for a while and switching to Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 after 1500 miles or so. I'm just curious, are these grades safe for a "midwest ridden bike" where riding temps are probably on average 50-80F?

Thanks

They are fine for midwest riding. With a 15w-40 on colder days, just let things warm up before getting hard on the throttle. They are what I am going to use.

I would avoid running it too hard before you get some miles on it. You want a load on the engine to help seat the rings, but revving it high with low miles is not the best for bearings, especially with all of the break in metal floating around in the oil. After running it 400-600 miles, change the oil, then you can start exploring the upper limits of the power band. You can run Rotella T syn after your first oil change with out having to worry.

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Re: First oil change

Quick question as you seem to be extremely knowledgeable on the oil subject. I just picked up my new bike, only have about 20 miles on it. I plan on riding it fairly hard and then changing the oil at around 100 miles. Based on what i'd read here and other places, I'm planning on going with Rotella T 15w-40 for a while and switching to Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 after 1500 miles or so. I'm just curious, are these grades safe for a "midwest ridden bike" where riding temps are probably on average 50-80F?

Thanks

I would have to say you couldn't do better. I would be using Rotella if I could find it here in Canada. I would switch to the synthetic earlier if it were me, though... Anyway, you can't go wrong using Rotella, period...

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Re: First oil change

They are fine for midwest riding. With a 15w-40 on colder days, just let things warm up before getting hard on the throttle. They are what I am going to use.

I would avoid running it too hard before you get some miles on it. You want a load on the engine to help seat the rings, but revving it high with low miles is not the best for bearings, especially with all of the break in metal floating around in the oil. After running it 400-600 miles, change the oil, then you can start exploring the upper limits of the power band. You can run Rotella T syn after your first oil change with out having to worry.

Heat is the enemy to new engines... that's why the manual says no prolonged operation above 7000pm to start. Rev the engine freely but avoid anything that will cause excessive heat... i.e. lugging the engine with low rpms, traffic jams, constant high speed riding and long highway droning. Excessive heat on a new engine causes parts to glaze instead of mate.... Revving the engine to redline here and there while breaking in the engine will actually speed up the break in and help mate parts quickly. Babying the engine too much during break-in is just as bad as excessive heat.... parts will glaze, not mate.

 

[wrightme43]

Re: First oil change

And to just throw even more mud in the water, I know a guy that has been using energy conserving oil just to be contrary and he had alot of it. Several oil changes on a ninja 250 with no problems (that he has reported anyway)

 

[wolfc70]

Re: First oil change

Heat is the enemy to new engines... that's why the manual says no prolonged operation above 7000pm to start. Rev the engine freely but avoid anything that will cause excessive heat... i.e. lugging the engine with low rpms, traffic jams, constant high speed riding and long highway droning. Excessive heat on a new engine causes parts to glaze instead of mate.... Revving the engine to redline here and there while breaking in the engine will actually speed up the break in and help mate parts quickly. Babying the engine too much during break-in is just as bad as excessive heat.... parts will glaze, not mate.

You actually want to achieve normal operating temps, as this helps things seat. Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, which the rings cannot seal well against ,compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing. This has nothing to do with heat or oil type, as a wear point in the engine significant enough to be interference, and thus susceptible to rapid wear, would be a wear point no matter what type of lubricant is used.

Constant RPM/load can cause glazing as can revving the bejesus out of the engine before the rings have completely seated. You want to vary RPM and load to help promote even and constant wear of the cylinder walls.