Will it run with skipped tooth on cam chain?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd rather pay for a new gasket then to screw with pulling spark plug #1 (the hardest one to get to) and put a dial indicator in there.

You'll also have a certain amount of crankshaft back and forth play with the piston staying at TDC as the connecting rod goes from going up, to going down.

How much, half tooth, dunno but certainly NOT as accurate as the marks on the crank / case.. WAY too much trouble (but of course do-able).

I'd personally just pull the cover and be done with it, no question if your on the marks. He already has the hard part done, getting the valve cover off. :thumbup:

 

[FloppyRunner]

Well I'm happy (kind of) to report that the bike WILL run being a tooth off. Not only that, it'll run pretty decently! But I fixed that after exhausting other possibilities. PITA, but I'm glad it's over now and it's running much better.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

[FinalImpact]

Well I'm happy (kind of) to report that the bike WILL run being a tooth off. Not only that, it'll run pretty decently! But I fixed that after exhausting other possibilities. PITA, but I'm glad it's over now and it's running much better.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

If you could share, what was off and which direction?
And what happened on round 2 when it was checked?
Tks

 

[lukaledoux]

I checked my timing chain the other day and the front run was not taught, it seemed kind of loose. Rear run was taught, top run not sure as i was only looking through the side cover. I also don't know if I was at TDC or not, but should there ever be any slack in the front run?

Is this a sign of a stretched chain?

If you didn't pull the side cover off last time, that check would have been useless (it could have been off down there). The mark on the crankshaft ignition rotor HAS TO BE LINED UP with the mark on the block

Also, IMPORTANT, make sure when setting marks, moving teeth, etc, the top run of the chain is taught and the front run is taught. All chain slop should be at the rear where the cam chain tensioner will take it up.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I checked my timing chain the other day and the front run was not taught, it seemed kind of loose. Rear run was taught, top run not sure as i was only looking through the side cover. I also don't know if I was at TDC or not, but should there ever be any slack in the front run?

Is this a sign of a stretched chain?

How loose is loose? 1" play, 1/4"? 1/8", measured by pushing back and forth medium pressure(maybe a little lighter than checking your drive chain). Any rattling? How many miles on the engine?

You are spinning the engine CLOCKWISE when checking correct? The FSM states CCW which is incorrect . *Spinning CCW can give you inaccurate results.

The chain taugtness actually starts at the crank (spinning clockwise or forward) as its what spins everything. If anything, that front run should be very taught. Then between the cams, taught, and any excess play is taken up with the tensioner on the rear run.

It wouldn't hurt to check at TDC just so we're on the same page. With that said, some wreching is due at this time. Loosening up the CCT(from the block), is it FULLY EXTENDED against the rear guide?

If it is fully extended (and it should NOT be) the chain and likely rear guide
(that the CCT pushs against) is worn/stretched. The CCT, which operates with a spring inside can only extend so far. If the chain is stretched beyond that, it won't keep it taught.

Also, the CCT should, after pushing in while turning the rear screw(under a larger bolt) extend easily, no binding, sticking etc.

Depending on the age, there have been some failures as the spring looses tension and doesn't push as hard as it should. One had a broken spring inside.

You may have this as well. . An older bike with higher mileage, a new tensioner is probably worth the investment. Also, squirting some oil down the tensioner and working it in and out sometimes helps with its function.

It goes without saying, make sure the chain DOES NOT MOVE of the sprockets at this point. A zip tie wrapped around the ft and rear run pulling them together (acting like the CCT) will keep the chain from jumping a tooth..