Luping

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Hallo
I had a crash at 40 km/h. I broke my collar bone, handlebar was a little bit bent (5mm) and right crash pad destroyed. I changed both crash pads and handlebar with new one but after 6000 rpm i have a strange vibration in foot pags and handlebar, looks like a resonance.
Anyone have any ideas ?
Thank you
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Is the "crash pad" a Tip Over Guard that attaches to the engine mounts?

I would re-torque ALL the engine mounts as well as go over the entire bike with a torque wrench.

I would also inspect VERY CLOSELY, the frame for ANY HAIRLINE cracks as well as the ENGINE TAB MOUNTS for again
any hairline cracks. Its not unusual to crack the engine tab / mount with the TOG if it catches the ground/object just right...
 

Luping

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Crash pad was simple, attached exactly like in the picture.
I double cheked for frame cracks with ultraviolet lamp and nothing.
I will untight all engine screws and re torque. I hope it works20160619_000406.jpg
Thank you for your time
 

FinalImpact

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Crash pad was simple, attached exactly like in the picture.
I double cheked for frame cracks with ultraviolet lamp and nothing.
I will untight all engine screws and re torque. I hope it worksView attachment 66722
Thank you for your time

If you do this, take the time to pull all bolts out and verify that each freely centers and does not bind on the frame. The exception being the pass through bolt above the transmission. Loosen all and with the aid of a screw jack under the header (on center stand if equipped), move engine as needed to center all bolts and torque to spec.

The goal being allowing the frame to unload its stress, if any and the bolts centering through the holes ensure that the frame is not stressed.
 

Luping

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I found the left crash pad's screw a little bit bent. The other left frame screw hole it wasn't at the same direction with the engine....
I realignet the holes and re torque all screws at 55 Nm. Vibrations its still there :(Untitled.jpg
 

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I found the left crash pad's screw a little bit bent. The other left frame screw hole it wasn't at the same direction with the engine....
I realignet the holes and re torque all screws at 55 Nm. Vibrations its still there :(View attachment 66736

Is the frame "arm" bent?? (per the bolded statement above) .

And did you put a new, straight bolt back in (pitched the bent one)?
 

Luping

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The arm frame its ok, at least looks like with naked eye. It's strange because i hit the right side and the left side has the problem....
I ordered to the shop a screw for my right crash pad, tomorrow must be here. I have to fix this because it's so annoying.
 

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That doesn't sound good..

A serious crash usually results in a cracked frame, bent, etc especially on the side that impacted.

For the OPPOSITE SIDE to bend that engine mounting bolt, it sounds like the engine itself, pushed the
frame to the left...

Can you inspect closely, more so by sitting on the bike (on the center stand) and see if you can spot ANY
alignment issues, crooked handle bars, etc...

Did you loosen all the bolts FI mentioned and if so, did the engine tend to remain the "middle" or did it get c0ck eyed
on its own?
 

FinalImpact

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^^^ +5.... that doesn't sound good at all.
Because these are cast frames, stresses can induce fractures over time.

Basically, if you removed all of the fasteners except the main one above the transmission and lets say the left frame rail sprung out creating a gap between the engine and frame horn that implies the chassis is sprung (bent). So if you tighten the bolt that load is stressing the frame and it is highly probably it will crack at some point even tho it is on the opposite side of the damage...

A gap a thin coin could slide through is pushing it. A gap allowing say four coins to fit would likely crack the frame.

Tell us more about this crash!
 

Luping

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After i removed all bolts except the one above the transmission i didn't see any gaps between chassis and engine, not even a millimeter. I used a jack under the exhaust, i thought the engine will fall. Even without jack the engine didn't move a bit.
I was thinking to remove all the exhaust and put it back with exact torque.
About crash : In a curve, to the right, dragging my knee down, i didn't see a small hole in the road. The front wheel slipped, jumped me, and hit the right crash pad (bent like hell), handlebar bent 1 cm and right handle plastic passenger scratched. The bike spinned half a turn (180") and stopped after 5 meters.
 
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FinalImpact

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Did the exposed bolt holes center over the threaded holes? As in, no forcing bolts or drag on the threads from the frame?
 

Luping

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All bolts spinning freely by frame holes. All frame holes must be exactly at the center with engine threaded engine holes ?received_1190183127680708.jpg
 

FinalImpact

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Exact center = no.
But the bolt should freely thread in w/out contact on the frame.

Also, do not underestimate tension from the exhaust. Once engine is secure loosen all but the header flange bolts and allow the collector section, mid pipe, and muffler/cans to move. As in grab them wiggle them so you know they are not bound under pressure. The header and mid pipe grow in length with heat (thermal expansion), if they are bound, this can mitigate the effectiveness of the rubber isolation dampers built into the system.
 

Luping

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Today i removed a lot of screws around frame and re torque like in the book. I noticed something, the midle exhaust pipe vibrate like hell after 3000 rpm, around 6000 looks like an electric hammer. In this time i dont feel any vibration on the frame, only after 5000 rpm, more pronounced in foot pads. I removed all exhaust sistem and put it back with no results. For me it's rocket science, don't know the answer. I'm gonna put a picture where the vibration it's maximum...20160622_210538.jpg
 

FinalImpact

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The exhaust is like the engine. Nothing "should be pulled into position". Anything moved during tightening of fasteners is under strain.

Align all components so there is no strain on them...

This really matters and the fact that you can see it happen proves it.

The path:
1st header flange bolts.
2nd header collector mount
3rd is a combo of mid pipe and cans should all slip and slide a small amount.
Tighten small pinch bolts 1st, then mid pipe clamp, can assembly clamps, and finally cans. Adjust bands so can bolts slip into frame.

Nothing should move during tensioning of the fasteners and if it does, it may be loading it which induces vibration into the chassis!

Hint: you may need to bend flanges or add washers for better alignment!!

Also the range you describe happens to be where the loose ignition wires into the spark plug caps becomes noticeable.

See Sticky in tech section!
 

Luping

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Today i changed the spark plugs with no effect. I think i'm gonna loose all bike bolts and re torque. If still has that vibration it means the frame is compromise or crankshaft it's bent. New frame cost a fortune....maybe it's time to look for another bike :(
 

Luping

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Damn! I fix it, i'm a fkg genius :)
I put the bike on rear stander and secure the fall engine with a jack under the exhaust. I removed all bolts except the one above the transmission and 2 screws who hold the exaust (under the engine and under the seat).
I start to lift the bike, easy with jack for aprox 20-25cm and stoped. I checked if the threated holes are the same with frame holes. One of them, first left frame arm bolt(picture) was a bit not to the right place. I put a bolt in it and start to screw. After 2 turns i heard a strange click, maybe more than that. After that i put the long bolt under the transmission without torque. I re-torque at 55 Nm all frame arms bolt and after that the last two long bolts ( not like in the book). I finished with re torque the exhaust bolts ( two)
Repeat: ALL THIS OPERATION WAS WITH BIKE LIFTED AT 20-25CM
I'm so happy Blah20160624_210217.jpg
 
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