FZ6 S2 (2008) engine vibration

no_way

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Hello guys,

There are numerous threads about engine vibration on this forum, I went through them and unfortunately I could not find a solution.

So, to start off, I've recently bought an FZ6 S2 2008 (American version) that had only 2000 km on the odometer (the mileage is real). For the first week I was riding very careful and did not exceed 4000 rpm, however. after a while when I got used to the bike and began to ride more aggressively, I noticed that vibration appears at 4500 rpm and dissipates slightly at higher rpms. It is less noticeable on cold engine.

I've heard that FZ6 is notorious for vibration and transmission noise/clank, but having ridden 1000km I could not close my eyes on this vibration.

The bike is in original condition. Nothing was made/ tuned to it, other then installing crash pads. I've changed spark plugs today and it didn't solve the problem.

It really drives me up the wall, I have to adjust rpms to avoid experiencing vibromassage.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Vibs nor serious clunking isn't an issue if everything is working properly.

Re the vib's, there's a sticky about checking your spark plug caps and their tightness to the wires. Read that in it's entirety.

Re the transmission.. It's certainly not noisy by any means however shifting into first CAN BE clunky. I've found lowering the idle to about 1,100 eliminates at least 50% of it. Holding in the clutch for at least 20 seconds (while in neutral), THEN shifting into first also helps.

As the bike is new to you (even thou it has low Kilometers) is good BUT you have ELEVEN YEARS of some one else owning it, tinkering with it, etc. Just SITTING for a long time isn't good for any machine

I would get a throttle body sync done, perhaps have the injectors cleaned, check the air filter for rodents.

I would also go over EVERY NUT AND BOLT, ESPECIALLY the engine mounts and exhaust / header bolts with a torque wrench. They do loosen up and will cause un-due vibrations.

The chain, if not cleaned and lubed (not semi frozen from internal rust) can also cause havoc. The proper amount of play (approx. 50mm's TOTAL up and down) for a clean, well lubricated chain will make a difference.

Do you have the owners and shop manual for the bike?
 

no_way

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Thank you for your reply.

I read the post regarding spark plug caps, will check them for their tightness to the wires.

When changing spark plugs, I disassebled the air filter box and inspected the filter and the throttle - they are like brand new.

So, I will retorque frame nuts with a torque wrench. If the problem doesn't go away, I will contact a local yamaha dealer to get my bike diagnosed - at least perform throttle syncing and injectors cleaning.

I agree with you up to the point that even though the bike ran only 2000 km, it is an eleven years bike. But I still can't put my finger on what could occur during these 2000 km that caused vibs.

I have the original owners manual and some kind of a manual that is in Russian (printed by a local dealer I suppose).
 

trepetti

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Hello guys,

There are numerous threads about engine vibration on this forum, I went through them and unfortunately I could not find a solution.

So, to start off, I've recently bought an FZ6 S2 2008 (American version) that had only 2000 km on the odometer (the mileage is real). For the first week I was riding very careful and did not exceed 4000 rpm, however. after a while when I got used to the bike and began to ride more aggressively, I noticed that vibration appears at 4500 rpm and dissipates slightly at higher rpms. It is less noticeable on cold engine.

I've heard that FZ6 is notorious for vibration and transmission noise/clank, but having ridden 1000km I could not close my eyes on this vibration.

The bike is in original condition. Nothing was made/ tuned to it, other then installing crash pads. I've changed spark plugs today and it didn't solve the problem.

It really drives me up the wall, I have to adjust rpms to avoid experiencing vibromassage.
Just an FYI unrelated to your problem. If the original tires are still on the bike they are NO GOOD. Over time the tire chemestry breaks down, even if they are hardly used. Remembet, they are the only connection of your bike to the road. Don't take any chances. Get new tires.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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All you need is one injector (IDK if that IS the issue), and you have 25% of the engine NOT running properly.

If you can get a manometer yourself, it'll be cheaper than paying someone. If your slightly mechanically inclined, you can do it yourself and YOU KNOW it's been DONE and how close they are.

Yamaha makes an excellent fuel system cleaner called RING FREE. I would run a shock treatment 2oz / 1 gallon of fuel for a full tank. It's possible to clean out any crap in the fuel system and avoid pulling injectors:

https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/ring-free-plus?b=Search&d=34

I run this (reg mix) in ALL my gas machines (SUV included) and my customers machines and can't speak highly enough of this product. You should be able to get it at a Yamaha marine dealership or on-line. Expensive but much cheaper than a trip to the service department.. And it will NOT hurt anything, it can ONLY help..

*Frankly, the dealership likely won't clean the injectors and preferably sell you new ones(NOT cheap). In the Yamaha Marine world, the injectors on the outboard engines will clog up, and there are companies that'll test/clean them for about $20 US dollars.


PM sent as well...


 
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no_way

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Just an FYI unrelated to your problem. If the original tires are still on the bike they are NO GOOD. Over time the tire chemestry breaks down, even if they are hardly used. Remembet, they are the only connection of your bike to the road. Don't take any chances. Get new tires.

Totaly agree. Thank you for noticing this. I've already ordered new tires, will change them next weekend.


All you need is one injector (IDK if that IS the issue), and you have 25% of the engine NOT running properly.

Yamaha makes an excellent fuel system cleaner called RING FREE. I would run a shock treatment 2oz / 1 gallon of fuel for a full tank. It's possible to clean out any crap in the fuel system and avoid pulling injectors:

https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/ring-free-plus?b=Search&d=34



Wow, I didn't realize that fuel system clearners can be so effective in terms of the cleaning of injectors. Thank you for pointing me to it.

Wouldn't such a shock dose of the clearner damage the engine? I mean corrupt the exhaust valves and pistons?
How do I use the bike when the clearner is added to the fuel - let the engine idle or just take a regular ride?

With regards to the dealership, you are right, they would probably suggest that I change injectors, then spark plugs again, then spark plugs coils, and so on.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Wow, I didn't realize that fuel system clearners can be so effective in terms of the cleaning of injectors. Thank you for pointing me to it.

Wouldn't such a shock dose of the clearner damage the engine? I mean corrupt the exhaust valves and pistons?
How do I use the bike when the clearner is added to the fuel - let the engine idle or just take a regular ride?
.

No it won't hurt anything. I've done shock treatments on both the bike / my SUV and other engines needing it. Ride it normally or even harder.

Just a side note. On my 2001 Four Runner, my idle starting staying higher than normal (about a year ago). Toyota (back then) was changing over to ISC (Idle Speed Control Valves) which adjusts the idle electronically with that valve. Mine didn't have one. Did a Shock treatment (NOTHING ELSE WAS DONE to the vehicle) and the idle eventually came back down to NORMAL.. Still idles fine to this day...

I use it on ALL my customers engines (90% which are carb related-varnished up), small engines (chain saws, mowers, weed eaters, about anything gas powered). Works like a charm, especially if left over night "to work"...
 

FinalImpact

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As I stated before, read up and figure out how to export the data from the the FC and IMPORT a Zero map.

Export current Fuel data.
Import Zero Map.
Connect fuel controller and the zero map passes data from the ECU to the injectors unchanged. So, it should idle and run as if the FC was not there.

If this is true and it runs the same you need to proper tune and you should be set.

Your statement about it runs good to about 4500rpm; Idle/sync screws are all done by 3500rpm so if it idles fine a sync is not going to fix a vibration from 4500 rpm up.

You said you read all the vibration threads, and later had the plugs out? That would have been a good time to address this.

When checking cap to wire connections, drop the two bolts from the radiator and simply allow it settle on the hoses. This will give you room to work so you can pull the caps out over the radiator and give them a twist. They spin onto a screw in the cap and SHOULD tighten down. If they don't trim the wire, and thread the cap on until it snugs up. Go on to the next one.

The wires on my 08 SUCK! I cut them like 4 times and each time the vibes were gone for 2 to 4000 miles and came back. Then I replaced the coils with low mileage 06 parts and have never touched it since.

No vibes. No @ss ache. Clear mirrors. Runs great.
Once vibes are gone get a tune and see how it runs.
 

no_way

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As I stated before, read up and figure out how to export the data from the the FC and IMPORT a Zero map.

Export current Fuel data.
Import Zero Map.
Connect fuel controller and the zero map passes data from the ECU to the injectors unchanged. So, it should idle and run as if the FC was not there.

If this is true and it runs the same you need to proper tune and you should be set.
.

I will check that.


By the way, before changing the wires, did you have a drop in MPG?
I've noticed that I could only ride for 170km or so with a full tank (mixed - city and highway). I didn't caclulate precisely, but it turns out to be like that. Yesterday I filled up the tank, ran 90 km and there are only 3 stripes left on the fuel meter. There is definetely something wrong with the engine.
 

FinalImpact

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Mine has fuel, timing, intake, and exhaust mods as well as 16/48 gearing. The ignition change offset the 14.7 vs 13.0:1 AFR. So essentially the gearing is where I took a hit range wise. IIRC it was good to 225mi or so. Now its into reserve at 195mi.

Set the idle speed to spec and connect a good vacuum gauge to a T at the vacuum sensor by the TB. Let us know what the value is and idle quality.

The specs are in the manual.

That said the vibes these poor engines can make when the waste spark ignition is messed up is pretty bad. Oddly they start and run just fine but hit the magic 4500 - 7500 and they can be unhappy. Fix that and don't take no for an answer as they can be fixed.
 

FinalImpact

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I see I mixed threads. Disregard Fuel Controller input. Obviously irrelevant. =/
 

no_way

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Here in Russia we have looong holidays on this week, so today morning I planned for a ride to Finland. I packed all I need for the trip and went by my garage to grab a toolkit from my car.

When I was ready to hit the road, I pressed the engine start button, however, the engine did not start, instead the starter ran freely and did not come in contact with the engine. I got fault code 12 on the display.

It seems like the overrunning clutch has died. Ridiculous.

I am just curious, could the starter overrunning clutch be a reason for vibs…
 

FinalImpact

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I vote no. What are the miles/km, and oil look like?
Man that clutch never fails. That is serious misfortune.
WTF?
Do stay out of harms way for a spell!
 

no_way

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Today I took my bike from the dealership.

They said that the bolt that holds the stator (see the fig.) has loosened up, therefore, the clutch moved freely. Fortunately, nothing was damaged, so they just torqued it applying some threadlocker as specified in manual.

Capture.PNG


Getting back to the vibs issue, I checked spark plug wires and their connections to the caps - they seem fine.

I ordered Yamaha RingsFree clearner, will see if it helps. If not, I will have to get my bike diagnosed in the dealership.

I will post here later when the problem is solved and what was the reason for it.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Wow, must have been a late Friday when Yamaha assembled the engine.... That's a FIRST HERE.

That, depending on how loose it was, could cause vibs..


That bolt is torqued at 54 lbs/ft, W/O Loctite


Looking at the Shop Manual, there are parts that engage with the starter behind the stator.. So I gather that's working fine now?

 
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FinalImpact

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Back when I used to race standup Jet Skis, my buddies 440 kawi had the balancer/magneto depart like that even though it was keyed and it raised h3ll. Cost him a new crank and balancer. Nearly I lives as I had to tow him back in February cold. We nearly froze to death. Thankfully my 650 was up for the task.

As Scott said, never heard of that coming off ever! And that certainly would make some vibes!

Fingers crossed!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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You'll very likely NEVER remove that bolt again, so it's really a none issue.

It's funny they saw Loctite on there.

It obviously DIDN'T WORK and most fasteners loctited from the factory, that stuff works VERY, VERY WELL....


Lucky it didn't destroy the stator....
 
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