Two technical questions (videos included)

[drtzekos]

Hello mates,

for a bit more than 2 years now I own a fz6 fazer of 2004-2006 model, with which I drove more than 15.000km.

Bike's Background:
I am the 3rd owner, and it has on total about 32.000km (I got it with 15k, which I believe they were true, due to the state of the various parts like brakes, chain etc.).

The problem main problem:
Since at least a year now I hear an annoying noise coming from the front-left part of the motorbike. I am not really sure to say if the noise was always there.

- About a year ago I visited a yamaha dealer and I asked him if the motorbike sounds ok.. He assured me that the noise was normal and that other fz6 sound exactly the same..


Today I did a cleanup as my poor bike passed a really hard winter with me, driving in the rain multiple times.. and I got "her" few gifts together with a nice bath. Meanwhile I made two videos of the noise that I describe and of the front gear of my transmission which I am not really sure if it is working as it should..
The questions:

1) Is the noise normal? (I can say that in the video it sounds a bit louder as normal) --> video is here

2) Is the bolt/gear as it should be? I mean is it normal to move like this? I tried to pull it in-out or move the gear but it seemed relatively stable -> video 2 is here




Thank you in advance

 

[FinalImpact]

It really seems like the recording device is adding sounds that don't exist so I would suggest maybe stepping back and trying again or add some detailed explanation as to which sound is in question.

Is there any chance this bike has a manual cam chain tensioner installed? It would be visible on the right side of the engine just below the head on the back side of the engine.

As for the nut. That needs fixed. Its not supposed to be loose. I'd order a new nut and lock tab. Oil the threads to remove the nut and clean an inspect the shaft. Hopefully its not damaged.

Drive sprocket nut M20, 85 Nm (8.5 m·kg, 61 ft·lb)

I'm not sure what your skill level is, but post up if you have some questions.

 

[drtzekos]

It really seems like the recording device is adding sounds that don't exist so I would suggest maybe stepping back and trying again or add some detailed explanation as to which sound is in question. <--1

Is there any chance this bike has a manual cam chain tensioner installed? It would be visible on the right side of the engine just below the head on the back side of the engine. <--2

As for the nut. That needs fixed. Its not supposed to be loose. I'd order a new nut and lock tab. Oil the threads to remove the nut and clean an inspect the shaft. Hopefully its not damaged. <--3

Drive sprocket nut M20, 85 Nm (8.5 m·kg, 61 ft·lb)

I'm not sure what your skill level is, but post up if you have some questions.

1) The noise sounds like a metal shaking or like a chain getting "dragged" with a relatively high frequency. When I am driving with lets say 50km/h stable, the noise is also stable and it disappears after 2-3 seconds when I pull the clutch (that means when the rpm drop). So I guess it does not come from the wheels or the transmission (I guess).
I will record it again from distance and upload again the video (maybe on the following days if I do not manage it today).

2) Well I am not really sure if there is a manual cam tensioner installer, but I think it is the OEM which if I am not mistaken is "always" automatic. I will take a look on that and upload a picture also.

3) The nut seems to be "stable" as it can not be un-screwed due to the "stoppers" which do not seem to be damaged, so I guess it has been like that for more than 15k km and the nut seems intentionally left like this (that is why I am asking, cause I found it strange). Only because it seems intentionally left like that, I want to ask again if you are sure that it shouldn't be like this.

• Do I need to buy a new one or just clean and tighten the current one (it seems not damaged, but a bit rusty)
• What do you mean with "inspect the shaft"? If it is damage would it be visible, or is there some kind of checks that I should do?

PS: About the skill: I may not be a mechanic, but I have the required tools (like a torque wrench), a repair book, the manual and good faith . (And access to the forum to ask you :thumbup: )

 

[FinalImpact]

Here are some audio tracks of typical bike noises. Mine to be specific. Other than the valve tap, which was corrected by doing a valve adjustment, these are healthy and normal sounds. Go to post 14 for more info: 08 FZ6 Condensed Build thread - post 14

08 FZ audio tracks.....

2014-11-2X audio via MP3... Notice Tick is gone from valve adjust.
0:00 - 1:30 = warm start and warm up - no tick!
3:15 = pull from 4500 to 12K ** Throttle response **is the best its ever been!
4:00 = hail storm trashes road! Cruise till parked.
7:10 - foot slipped, double clutch
7:20 = Walk around - tick is gone!
CLICK --> Soundcloud MP3 After Valve Adjust .. .. .. less raspy, little to no backfire (pop), & it pulls good!

2014-10 = CAT Delete
Exhaust tone CAT-Delete, Ignition Advance and same recording device... Crisis on her way to hibernation/winter rest
CLICK --> SoundCloud MP3 2014-10 DeCAT

2014-04 walk around for Valve Tick, 48 Secs. Taps can easily be heard in the first 12 seconds and last 8 seconds. i.e. its most noticeably at the beginning and end.
CLICK --> SoundCloud MP3 Cam lash taps (before adj)...


From 2013 Before Trigger Mod and CAT Delete....
CLICK --> SoundCloud MP3 Two Bro FZ6

I ask about the CCT as the noise dose have "Whirrrrrr" sound which sorta sounds like tight chain. Look here for pictures of standard Automatic tensioners. Valve Adjustment

If you notice I provided a torque spec... 61 ft/lbs over here. That means the nut should apply tension to retain the sprocket so IT DOES NOT MOVE ON THE SHAFT! Each time you accelerate or decelerate, that surface hardened shaft is being worn by the loose sprocket. If left that way long enough, the shaft WILL BE DAMAGED. Although someone who is very gently w/the wrist could get further than others... lol
- The nut is there to apply tension and STOP movement of the gear on the shaft. The lock tab is going above and beyond its duties to retain that nut and at some point it will wear through and the nut will come off. This places YOU at risk of the rear wheel locking up and you loose control. Enough said...

 

[drtzekos]

I would say that it sound really similar to the 48 sec clip that you quoted but without the "tick", it just has the "Whirrrrrr" sound as you describe it . This noise seems to be reduced or totally gone in your second clip "2014-11-2X"..

IF there is the same noise, is it the CCT? How critical is its correction/replacement?



I saw your thread and I was just "wow", that must have been a lot of work! Well I wouldn't go that that far (at least not currently).. I mean for valves etc I will give it to a professional.. and till then I still have 8k km (40k service).

Now for smaller things like brakepads, oil / brake fluids change, minor checks or extras installation I do it my self.. for the CCT if it is faulty and it is not an adjustment issue I guess I will give it to a proper "doctor" to be fixed.


PS: About the nut, on the first chance I will go take it out, check for visual damages, if none I will clean it and tighten it. According to my repair book 90Nm are required (similar to the 85 that you suggested)

Thank you for your help!