two bro's are on the way!

[blitzcraig]

Tell your Dad they're micro brewery canisters! Nah....Then he'll come over for beer and see the bike. Then again....He's gonna find out and kick your butt anyway. Hahahaha

On your electrical question. It might be better to use butt splices with a good crimper and if you have a friend who's done electrical get that friend to help. Get a good crimper. Not the kind that's a combo wire stripper/crimper. Home Depot has them. They have red and black rubber grips. Klein Tools is one brand but I think Homer has a cheaper knock off that works fine. Use tape you can write on to tag your wires. Homer also has wire tags you can buy. After you crimp the wires together give a little tug to make sure you have a good crimp. After testing, tape it all up to help keep moisture out.
Nothing beats having a good friend with you on these projects because when things pop, smoke, catch on fire, or sit there and look stupid, you'll always have someone says, "Hey! remember when.....Hahahaha"

Cliff

lol, yeah i am refreshing the UPS tracking page like an obsessive compulsive patient. they are 'out for delivery', so as soon as that changes to 'delivered', it's go time. thanks for the electric info, i'm looking at the parts list of what is supposed to come in the box, and it comes with 6 butt splice wire connectors. reading up on it more at the moment. one strange thing: it says to cut off the metal connectors at the end of each turn signal. according to the picture, it looks like it's on the NEW turn signals? why would the new signals come with these if we are just gong to cut them off? apologies again, cutting things off the bike scares me. and i assume i am cutting the wires on the OEM signals right where the wire meets the signal? perhaps i will understand it more when i physically have the package here. i just feel like a hospital janitor about to perform open heart surgery.

 

[Boneman]

The TB turn signals are just regular aftermarket mini signals thrown in with the pipes and I believe come with some form of factory crimped on male connector. They want you to just clip that connector off and use the butt splice crimps instead since you wont have the female connector on your bike to plug the male end into.

You can see the male connectors that TB is reffering to here in one of my installation pictures:

If you are up for it, I would get some quick disconnect male and female crimps and use those instead. This way if you ever need to replace the signals, or switch them out for another set, all you have to do is unplug them. I'm not a fan of the crimp on wire splices, but they work. I prefer to solder and heat shrink anything that needs to be spliced and use quick disconnect crimps for attaching electrical items.

 

[blitzcraig]

ok, this is making more and more sense. thanks very much boneman! :cheer:

 

[Boneman]

Anytime!

....so are there here yet???

"What can Brown do for you?"...They can delvier my god damn pipes that's what they can do!!! :thumbup:

 

[Motogiro]

The double arch type crimpers tend to have a higher mechanical failure rate. I (used to do auto electric) always used the Klein crimper because the dimple type crimper has a better mechanical strength. Whenever someone brought their car in and we would find a bad crimped wire it was that double arch type. The thing with the dimple type is you have to use the male dimple part opposite the seam on some of these electrical connectors. In other words if you examine a butt splice from the end you will see that on many of them there is a seam on the metal sleeve. When you use the dimple type, the male dimple goes opposite the seam.

 

[blitzcraig]

Anytime!

....so are there here yet???

"What can Brown do for you?"...They can delvier my god damn pipes that's what they can do!!! :thumbup:

yeah they can! it's taken FIVE days to get from florida to here. they sat in baltimore for 23 HOURS. sometimes i wonder if the free ground shipping is worth the grief.

 

[blitzcraig]

ok, one last thing please. and again, sorry for all the questions up front now and i am not even around the bike (but i did take most if the back end apart last night), but i'm trying to clear as much up as possible now so i can run home and hopefully just bang this out. step 13 on the instructions:

Clip wiring to OEM turn signals & plate lights and
remove wiring harness from tail section. Remove
2 1/2 in. of outer wiring harness cover to expose
wires. Route clipped end of OEM wiring harness
through the hole in the new license plate holder
and behind license plate frame.

there are TWO harnesses? which is which? and where do i clip the wiring to the OEM turn signals and plate lights? it just says clip, but not where exactly. basically that whole paragraph doesn't make much sense to me.

once again, you all rock :rockon:

 

[blitzcraig]

got 'em! just saw they were delivered on the UPS site and ran home to snag 'em. dad was there but thankfully the box was all plain brown. he asked what it was and i told him guitar parts :spank:. anyway, back at work and i've taken everything out. box was kinda beat up and i thought it was odd there was no two brothers label on it anywhere. oh well, everything is new and accounted for so that's all i care about. now that i am looking at the wires i think i understand now. so these blue tubes are where the wires go... new wires in one end, old cut wire in the other end, crimp the middle with the tool to smoosh them together, and whalla? think the whole harness thing just confused me. is that just a plastic hose or something that holds the wires together so they aren't all willy-nilly? i was thinking perhaps it was a funky clip or something. anyway, if this works how i think it works now, I CAN DO THIS!

oh, crazy story too about the ride home. had this harley pass me but i caught a light and he went ahead. two lights up traffic was stopped just a couple cars deep. looks through the middle and saw the bike on its side in the road, and the guy was lying there not moving. it had been a few minutes and it was right next to the annapolis mall, and there were already a couple security guards and some passers by standing there assisting and on the phone etc. if i was on the bike i definitely would have tried to stand around but i was in the truck and didn't want to be a rubbernecker, so i turned around. i will watch the local news closely and post the details in case anyone is interested. but, man. that was my first time seeing a bike wreck in person. very very surreal. the sight of a bike on its side is indescribable for me at the moment.

 

[blitzcraig]

IT'S ALIVE!! well after about 4 hours of blood sweat and beers, the deed is done. i winged a good part of it, but i think you have to a little bit. instructions are good, but not as thorough as i would have liked for a :squid: like me. wiring is a little ugly but it works. cans are in solid and man is that sound amazing. it was spitting at me a little bit, but i think that's because it's collected a little bit of condensation sitting outside. i wanted to disconnect the battery as some people have recommended but those screws on top of the terminals are not going anywhere. one of my complaints with this bike is that yamaha put some of those screws, nuts, bolts, etc. on WAY too tight. the screw holes were going to strip if i twisted any harder and the pliers were not going to do it either. so i don't know how the hell i am going to unhook the battery, but i'll cross that bridge when i come to it. is there any other way to reset the computer aside from removing a terminal?

anyway, i'll post pics tomorrow. too dark down there now and my camera doesn't take pictures worth a crap in the dark. but in a nutshell, i cannot wait to ride this thing and see what it's like.

 

[Boneman]

Congrats! gald it worked out for you.

Dosen't your battery have hex headed bolts with a philips head (+)??? both my FZ6 batteries had this for the battery terminals so you can either use a wrench, socket and ratchet or a philips head screw driver to get them out. They should look something like this:

Blast them with a little WD-40 and let them sit overnight to help loosen them up if they are that tight.

Does your battery look like this one? (FZ6 Battery GT 12B-4)

and the pliers were not going to do it either.

...and they shouldn't as pliers have no business trying to remove bolts! :spank:

 

[blitzcraig]

yeah, that's them alright. they were in so tight the screwdriver was going to strip the plus sign thing (wow i'm technical). i did give them a blast of WD-40 and still no luck. i'm thinking if i give her a good run and get heated up they might come loose. we'll see, but thanks for the note. :thumbup:

 

[manas12]

Don't use the screwdriver if the screw is too tight and you have the option of using a socket wrench. The wrench will fit better and you will be able to apply more torque without having to worry about stripping the head. If you don't have a set of wrenches, go to the closest home depot and buy a set of wrenches. There is ratchet multi-tool which you can buy. Pretty useful, that tool is.

 

[Boneman]

Also don't worry too much about stripping them as the battery terminal screws screw into replacible and removable little inserts that slide in between the battery terminal and bolt. You can aways get replacements from your dealer if needed.

Oh and when using a wrench or a scoket/ratchet, make damn sure NOT to touch the frame with it while you are removing the POSIVITE (+) terminal or you will instantly short the battery and bad things can happen.

 

[Hellgate]

Instead of removing the cables from the battery will simply pulling the Main fuse accomplish the same thing? Might be easier for now.

Guitar parts, classic. "No my dear Father, I didn't "waste" $750 in motorcycle toys, its guitar parts that make my bike louder, isn't technology great Father?"

 

[blitzcraig]

good idea, i'll pilfer a socket set from the old man's basement. and don't cross the streams... ok, good advise.

i know this has probably been beaten to death in the forums, but while we're here, is the difference in performance THAT noticeable if you reset the computer after a two bro's install? i'm rocking a K&N with this too. i'm going to give her a test ride soon today to see what we're working with here. and the camera is coming with :rockon:

 

[Boneman]

Running a K&N and now having TB Cans you 'might' be running a tad lean and might want to look into getting a Power Commander unit. I have stayed away from getting a K&N filter for this reason.

 

[blitzcraig]

Instead of removing the cables from the battery will simply pulling the Main fuse accomplish the same thing? Might be easier for now.

Guitar parts, classic. "No my dear Father, I didn't "waste" $750 in motorcycle toys, its guitar parts that make my bike louder, isn't technology great Father?"

i see that it looks like the red terminal wire goes from the battery and appears to plug into something. i didn't want to go unplugging things that i didn't know what they were... but perhaps i could just unhook that plug (if it's possible)? is that what you are talking about?

yeah i squeaked out of another one with that yesterday. it was almost over before it began when the insurance company sent my policy to his house. he actually opened it because he figures everything that comes to the house is his, but when he saw my name he put it down. whew. it was complete with VIN # and YAMAHA. but hey... yamaha makes guitars, and they have serial numbers

 

[blitzcraig]

Running a K&N and now having TB Cans you 'might' be running a tad lean and might want to look into getting a Power Commander unit. I have stayed away from getting a K&N filter for this reason.

i have certainly seen your posts before about not needing a power commander with new exhausts, but it seemed like the opinion was on the fence with the K&N installed as well. what are the tell-tale signs of running lean? lots of popping? or, TOO much popping i should say? sounds like the popular opinion here is the right amount of popping is kinda cool. i guess i just want to know please where the line is where it's excessive. :Flash:

 

[Boneman]

Hard to say really. Can be personal preference. My cans pop sometimes durning rapid decelleration (if I roll off the throttle quickly) and I like it.

I'm no expert on the subject of air to fuel ratios and just know the general basics. As you keep adding things to your bike to increase air flow, you might start running into problems. I'd ride it for a bit and see how she feels then perhaps ask your service tech next time you're getting it serviced.

 

[manas12]

i have certainly seen your posts before about not needing a power commander with new exhausts, but it seemed like the opinion was on the fence with the K&N installed as well. what are the tell-tale signs of running lean? lots of popping? or, TOO much popping i should say? sounds like the popular opinion here is the right amount of popping is kinda cool. i guess i just want to know please where the line is where it's excessive. :Flash:

I have installed the K&N and have installed the PCIII as well. OK, what follows now is a personal experience and should be taken with a grain of salt. I installed the Scorpion exhaust long before the air filter and the power commander. On scorpion's website they mentioned that I don't need a PC if I am doing just the exhaust. I did notice that my bike was running a bit richer after I installed the exhaust, I could smell the fuel. Maybe the computer did correct itself for the exhaust? I am not sure it does that, and if it was a direct effect of the exhaust or maybe I had not noticed the bike running richer when it was all stock.
I installed the K&N and the PCIII at the same time, and I don't think the bike is running richer any more. Some people have observed that the PCIII is a direct cause for the bike to run rich. I did not notice this. There is also a way to adjust the CO without having to install a PC but the way I understood that was you are adjusting the A/F across the board where as the PCIII adjusts the A/F for throttle position and RPMs. Maybe I understood it wrong, but I like what the PCIII added to my bike. It runs a lot smoother now and there is no jerky throttle response any more.
/ end of personal experience.

-Manas.