My 2011 Silverado mod thread

ant_mb

Super *********
Joined
Jun 30, 2007
Messages
2,043
Reaction score
43
Points
48
Location
Delran NJ
Visit site
I know this isn't a a chevy forum, but this my by build thread!

Mod 4, I start at 4 because I didn't document 1-3. Which were Bug shield, Color coded mirror caps, and new rims tires.

Fog lights!

Hey Guys,

I searched the web and couldn’t find much on the install of fog lights on the NBS Silverado. I installed mine today and took a couple pics of the process. I ordered the kit from gmpartsdirect.com. It was around $350 shipped, and took 2 ½ weeks to arrive. Here is my install: 2011 Silverado

The before product.
zxnxqf.jpg


First step is to remove the top shroud. If you take a small flat head screw driver and pop the inner ring up on the rivet you can remove them. Take your time and you won’t scratch anything.
mr9u8.jpg


All the rivets popped up and ready to remove. Start on one end and slowly pull the rivets out. Make sure you have a container to put them in.
t7jsw8.jpg


Once the top shroud is removed you expose the 4 10mm bolts that hold the grill on. This is the right bolt.
1et6ja.jpg


Here is a pic of the middle two. There is also one on the left.
5p24qb.jpg


Once the 4 bolts are removed there are 6 clips that hold the grill on. 4 in the middle and 1 on either end. Start at either end and take a pair of plires and squeeze the clips while pulling the grill out. Work your way across the grill until all clips are free. Take care with this as I can see these clips breaking.
3snjd.jpg


Once the grill is free there are 5 rivets that are holding a protective flap. I used a scraper to cut the rivet heads off. I tried to pull them, but it is much easier to just cut the heads off and get new ones. There are three in the center and one on both ends. I picked up a box of 15 for $5 at Advance auto to replace these.
4vie4o.jpg


The grill gone!
33my3bk.jpg


Once the grill is off it’s time to remove the bumper. There are 4 bolts that hold it on. 2 are visable from the top and 2 from the bottom. I was doing the job by myself so I chose to remove the bottom bolts first. I didn’t want the bumper falling on me when I removed them.
b835sg.jpg


Once those were removed I pulled the two up top bolts. Take care here, when you remove the last bolt the bumper is free. Pull it straight out, It’s light enough for one to handle, but it is still a big awkward piece that you don’t want to scratch.
5n43fl.jpg


The front removed. I cringe when I see my new truck like this! J
54x6dl.jpg


I didn’t take a lot of pics of the conversion as the directions covered it pretty well. You do have to remove these two white rivets from the old piece so take care while pushing them out. I wish they would have included a new set, but they didn’t. You’ll want to compare the old cap with the new and remove the metal bolt clips and reuse them on the new cap. This process went pretty easy. I left the protective film on the new paint incase I scratched it.
icn42r.jpg



There are also 3 rivets that need to be cut on the new caps. I used scraper as well and took care not to scratch anything.
2dbjuwx.jpg


Once the new color coded caps were installed I put the fog lights in. Take note to install these metal clips BEFORE you install the lights in the caps. Don’t ask me how I know! PS It’s a real PIA to take the lights out once installed!
14np6b.jpg


Here is how the new bracket is placed.
vpi6c7.jpg


Once the lights are in simply trace your steps back and install the bumper and grill


TIME TO WIRE!


Normally I would call this a 4 beer job, but since I was dealing with the fuse panel and important wiring I chose to stay sober.

Fuse panel that is located under the hood on the driver side. I have removed the cover in this pic.
vj2fo.jpg


The fuse panel has two handles on it. One on either end. You simply pull up on these handles to remove top portion of the box. Once removed you expose the blocks that you will need to wire the lights. At this point I took a good ½ hour to double check the wiring with the directions. You need to pop the grey block that is closest to the front and passenger side. It has 4 clips that hold it on, two on either side. Use a small screwdriver and release the block.
2el5bvm.jpg


Here is where the new pin will be installed.
14o0yug.jpg


To install you must pull this red clip out enough to insert the new pin. Careful as the is what holds all the pins in place!
197c6x.jpg


At this point you reinstall the block and then the top fuse panel.

I didn’t take pics of how I routed my wires as it’s pretty straight forward. You will need to install the new light switch which is a piece of cake as well. If you need a how too on that let me know.


Here is the finished product!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


91jn8n.jpg
 

ant_mb

Super *********
Joined
Jun 30, 2007
Messages
2,043
Reaction score
43
Points
48
Location
Delran NJ
Visit site
Stereo mods.

I got a few goodies in today so I decided to start my sound system upgrade. My PAC module came in so I thought why not install it. The good thing with the PAC is you can install it and your speakers will still work. You can pick and choose which speakers you want to amp, front-back- or both.

Here is what I’m installing. The 4x6’s are the stock ones, as I already put the Pioneers in this weekend.

anely0.jpg


I started out by removing the bezel that covers the radio and climate control. Simply pull on the upper right corner to pop the first snap and work your way around. Don’t get to ****ty with it, you don’t want to break it. Once it’s off there are 2 screws that hold the climate control on. Pull those first, then pull the 4 that hold the radio on. Pull the climate control out first then the radio. Once the radio is out the PAC unit is simply plug and play.

Here is the unit hooked up.

2rm41gx.jpg


I searched around the tight spot to find a place it would actually fit. I found that it will fit right between the radio and climate control with about an inch of play. Perfect! I installed some foam window sealer to take the space up and create a vibration free environment.

2i8de6g.jpg


Next I pushed it into place and installed the climate control. When I need to adjust the outputs I simply pull the bezel and the two screws holding the climate control and I’m there. 2 minute job.

2zodpxy.jpg


I then routed the wires under the dash and around the hood release under the plastic molding. It simply pulls up and even has channels to put the wires in. It was too dark to take pics, but I’ll get some tomorrow when I install the power wires to the battery.

That’s about it for tonight.

More to come!!
 

ant_mb

Super *********
Joined
Jun 30, 2007
Messages
2,043
Reaction score
43
Points
48
Location
Delran NJ
Visit site
Amp Wiring.

Let me start out by saying none of the wires are HOT at any point of time! Powering it up will be the very last step in my instillation.


Well guys I got around to installing the power wire for the amps today. I went 4 gauge wire and a 100 amp fuse. I started off fishing the wire through the firewall, what a real PIA that was. I made a small slit in the boot and ran a plastic coated wire hanger through the boot. I then taped the wire to the hanger and proceeded to pull it though. After about 6 times of pulling it through and losing the wire I decided it was time for a little help. This time I would pull while I had a friend push the wire and I managed to get it through.

Here is where I fished it through. Be careful and don’t cut any wires or get too ****ty with it. Last thing you want to do is screw some wiring up.

4q0kmo.jpg


I then went to town under the hood. First I picked a good spot to mount the fuse. Once that is figured out you can get a rough idea of how much wire to you’ll need to pull through. Pull extra now and you can get rid of it later. I work from the battery to the back. Working this way allows you to take all the slack back through the firewall without cutting the wire.

Here is a pic of the wire mounted to the battery. The battery has a mega fuse on it for protection, I chose to connect before the fuse as my line will be fused and I’m sure I would blow it and be left stranded somewhere. I simply notched the plastic cover that protects the positive terminal.

1z6wisw.jpg


Next I hooked the fuse up, and pulled the excess wire back into the cab. Now that I have my exact length determined I can work on making it look pretty. I chose to run the wires parallel to the main power wire running to the fuse box. I zip tied it and taped the ends all up.

Here is the fuse


1gfzi9.jpg



An overall look at the wire

2woj6kp.jpg



Take a step back and admire your work. The dealer would have a hard time finding anything out of place here. J

2ahh7id.jpg



Now it’s time to run the wires to the rear. I’m using quality wires, but if I get any interference I’ll separate the wires and run the RCA’s down the passenger side. Yes I know my truck is dirty!

121tqab.jpg



Next the wires get installed into the pre existing channel in the rail.


2lay9sj.jpg



There is plenty of room for the wires to exit out the back of the rear plastic. Don’t try and pry up on the plastic, pull it off and do it the right way, you don’t want to ruin your wires or plastics.


jt1jzs.jpg


Pretty easy to do and if you take your time you can make it look pretty sharp. I get my box tomorrow, and then the real fun begins!!!!
 

BH322893

Pastry Chef
Elite Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Messages
384
Reaction score
6
Points
0
Location
Northwest of Boston MA
www.HarpersBakery.net
I already spotted your first mistake, you bought a Chevy! :BLAA: just kidding, nice looking truck though and the mods are real. Maybe its just a personal thing but i feel like the front lower bumper would look sick in the matching white
 
Last edited:

William

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2012
Messages
152
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Tampa, Florida
Visit site
Nice job on the lights. A shop would have charged a boatload to install that kit.

How about some bed liner for your next mod? :thumbup:
 

ChevyFazer

Redneck MacGyver
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
3,309
Reaction score
27
Points
0
Location
ATL
Visit site
You know you can buy painted grills through gmpp.com that was the first thing i did to mine
 

ant_mb

Super *********
Joined
Jun 30, 2007
Messages
2,043
Reaction score
43
Points
48
Location
Delran NJ
Visit site
I already spotted your first mistake, you bought a Chevy! :BLAA: just kidding, nice looking truck though and the mods are real. Maybe its just a personal thing but i feel like the front lower bumper would look sick in the matching white

I'm thinking about it. The grill only a little over $350 shipped.
 

08fz6

Make no excuses!
Elite Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2008
Messages
1,237
Reaction score
7
Points
0
Location
Central New york
Visit site
Amp Wiring.

Let me start out by saying none of the wires are HOT at any point of time! Powering it up will be the very last step in my instillation.


Well guys I got around to installing the power wire for the amps today. I went 4 gauge wire and a 100 amp fuse. I started off fishing the wire through the firewall, what a real PIA that was. I made a small slit in the boot and ran a plastic coated wire hanger through the boot. I then taped the wire to the hanger and proceeded to pull it though. After about 6 times of pulling it through and losing the wire I decided it was time for a little help. This time I would pull while I had a friend push the wire and I managed to get it through.

Here is where I fished it through. Be careful and don’t cut any wires or get too ****ty with it. Last thing you want to do is screw some wiring up.

4q0kmo.jpg


I then went to town under the hood. First I picked a good spot to mount the fuse. Once that is figured out you can get a rough idea of how much wire to you’ll need to pull through. Pull extra now and you can get rid of it later. I work from the battery to the back. Working this way allows you to take all the slack back through the firewall without cutting the wire.

Here is a pic of the wire mounted to the battery. The battery has a mega fuse on it for protection, I chose to connect before the fuse as my line will be fused and I’m sure I would blow it and be left stranded somewhere. I simply notched the plastic cover that protects the positive terminal.

1z6wisw.jpg


Next I hooked the fuse up, and pulled the excess wire back into the cab. Now that I have my exact length determined I can work on making it look pretty. I chose to run the wires parallel to the main power wire running to the fuse box. I zip tied it and taped the ends all up.

Here is the fuse


1gfzi9.jpg



An overall look at the wire

2woj6kp.jpg



Take a step back and admire your work. The dealer would have a hard time finding anything out of place here. J

2ahh7id.jpg



Now it’s time to run the wires to the rear. I’m using quality wires, but if I get any interference I’ll separate the wires and run the RCA’s down the passenger side. Yes I know my truck is dirty!

121tqab.jpg



Next the wires get installed into the pre existing channel in the rail.


2lay9sj.jpg



There is plenty of room for the wires to exit out the back of the rear plastic. Don’t try and pry up on the plastic, pull it off and do it the right way, you don’t want to ruin your wires or plastics.


jt1jzs.jpg


Pretty easy to do and if you take your time you can make it look pretty sharp. I get my box tomorrow, and then the real fun begins!!!!




did ya end up getting interference running the rca's with the power cable? I have had systems in my last two cars and even when I ran them separately I still occasionally got interference from somewhere...
 

ant_mb

Super *********
Joined
Jun 30, 2007
Messages
2,043
Reaction score
43
Points
48
Location
Delran NJ
Visit site
Well my box came in today, and it is a fantastic piece of equipment. The only downside is I can’t fir both amps in the provided slot so I’m going to have to change my plans a bit.

Here is how it looks with the amp installed.

2vi3t3s.jpg


I then test fit it into the truck before I installed the subs. You can’t install the subs with the box in the truck, there is simply no room back there.

zwez9k.jpg


After the test fit I installed the subs and placed it in the truck. I already had all the wiring ran so I hooked it up to make sure everything was working correctly before I made it tidy. I soon found out that my PAC unit wasn’t supplying power to the blue remote wire, so I ripped the stereo out and made sure it was all connected and plugged in securely. It was! Next I broke out the multi meter to trace the problem. It seems the radio wasn’t supplying power to the PAC unit, so I’m not sure what the problem is there. Since I had the multi meter out I decided to search for another switched 12 volt wire back there. Guess what, there isn’t one. Not one freaking 12 volt switched wire on this stinking radio!

I eventually worked something out and found a suitable wire to power the remote, but I’m not going into it here. Once I had that problem sorted the amp and subs came to life. I was able to adjust the PAC outputs to where I wanted them so I buttoned the radio back up and started adjusting the amp. Sorry I didn’t take anymore pics, I was too frustrated, but I’ll get some more tomorrow when I tidy the whole thing up.

All in all it sound great, but I really don’t like where I have to position my seat to provide enough room for the subs. I’ll play with it a little more tomorrow and see if I can squeeze another notch or two out of the seat.
 

ant_mb

Super *********
Joined
Jun 30, 2007
Messages
2,043
Reaction score
43
Points
48
Location
Delran NJ
Visit site
Got a chance to try and squeeze a click for my seat today. I noticed that no matter what I did I couldn’t get the box to sit all the way back. After looking it over for a few minutes I see why. The back of the truck is carper and insulation that is puffed out. Without pulling these out there is no way to get the box to sit back all the way without “making it”. I fabed up a couple 2 inch spacers to hold the box back. Once I did this it pushed the top of the box out. WTF!!! So much for a $180 box that is worry free! I then had to fab up a strap to hold the top into place. Once these were in I could actually put the seat where I needed it to be.

Couple pics of the temporary blocks and strap.

Spacers to hold the bottom back

xd6r5.jpg


And a strap for the top

2uj2vs0.jpg


I know this is redneck, and I can’t have that, so a solution is on it’s way
 
Top