Throttle seems Different Today: Help

[TownsendsFJR1300]

To check that lower cable, it really needs to be removed from the throttle tube and simply pulled at the throttle body end (or disconnected altogether and felt for any binding). Spinning the throttle tube really isn't showing anything.

Peek down below the frame and you'll see where the cable attach. The non broke, upper, safety return cable is THE TOP CABLE at the thottle bodies. The lower cable, closest to the radiator hose is the pull, raise RPM's, (or your broke cable)

That one picture showing that super sharp bend is very likely why the cable broke.

When re-installing the new cable, with the mods done to it, you may have to look at some slightly different routes for the cables to prevent that sharp kinking from occurring. Make sure you check with turning the steering to both sides fully and all the gauges installed, etc... You may have to route those cables slightly higher to acount for the excess lenth your now dealing with.. Just take your time, you can play with the routing as your waiting for the new cable(s) to arrive.

What I was referring to last night, re the attachment points/adjustments at the throttle bodies:

Once again, the lower cable shown is the "Pull" or increase RPM's cable..

BTW, its usually MUCH easier to attach the new cable at the TB's first, (after they've been routed), then to the throttle, assemble the throttle, then adjust (tighten) the cables back at the TB's.

 

[FinalImpact]

Reading this; I'd be all over buying two NEW cables. As a rider and knowing to expect the unexpected - having the throttle hang is over-kill and something you just don't need! I value my life too much!

That said, take your time getting the proper slack in the decelerator cable. If its too tight it won't snap back. Turn the bars full lock both ways and test this as the two cables can bind at different points.

By the book I think it was 0.12 to 0.20" of free play but I don't recall a value for the decelerator cable slack.

I replaced the throttle bodies on a friends bike and he'd attached and adjusted the the cables. It was bound solid as it had no free play with the double-pull action binding it both directions.

PS - Top clamps on the air box to the throttle body boots are 3mm IIRC. Maybe 4 mm. Use LONG BALL socket Allen's like 7" -->> 8" to get the air box off. Pictures of airbox removed are here: http://www.600riders.com/forum/album.php?albumid=1339&page=2

Good luck!

 

[GuantanamoShrey]

To check that lower cable, it really needs to be removed from the throttle tube and simply pulled at the throttle body end (or disconnected altogether and felt for any binding). Spinning the throttle tube really isn't showing anything.

Peek down below the frame and you'll see where the cable attach. The non broke, upper, safety return cable is THE TOP CABLE at the thottle bodies. The lower cable, closest to the radiator hose is the pull, raise RPM's, (or your broke cable)

That one picture showing that super sharp bend is very likely why the cable broke.

When re-installing the new cable, with the mods done to it, you may have to look at some slightly different routes for the cables to prevent that sharp kinking from occurring. Make sure you check with turning the steering to both sides fully and all the gauges installed, etc... You may have to route those cables slightly higher to acount for the excess lenth your now dealing with.. Just take your time, you can play with the routing as your waiting for the new cable(s) to arrive.

What I was referring to last night, re the attachment points/adjustments at the throttle bodies:

Once again, the lower cable shown is the "Pull" or increase RPM's cable..

BTW, its usually MUCH easier to attach the new cable at the TB's first, (after they've been routed), then to the throttle, assemble the throttle, then adjust (tighten) the cables back at the TB's.

Hopefully I will get the cable today, I checked the other cable and it seems perfectly fine, no kinks or bumps anywhere in it.

So after routing the new pull cable and replacing it. Basically the "Free Play" area is at the throttle where you can move it kind of back and forth without it revving right?

and the way to tighten it is right by the base of the controls where the cable connects to the throttle? either tighten or loosen? Also wanted to know if you knew if there is a standard setting for the bike or if it is all up to personal preference.

Thanks Again!:thumbup:

 

[Erci]

So after routing the new pull cable and replacing it. Basically the "Free Play" area is at the throttle where you can move it kind of back and forth without it revving right?

and the way to tighten it is right by the base of the controls where the cable connects to the throttle? either tighten or loosen? Also wanted to know if you knew if there is a standard setting for the bike or if it is all up to personal preference.

Thanks Again!:thumbup:

Yup, that's where you adjust free play. *Standard* is roughly 5mm of play, but if your routing is set up well, that is to say, it doesn't tug on the cables as you turn the handlebar, you can get away with almost no play.
Once you install the cable, try the free play in all handlebar positions (straight, right, left) and see if there's a tighter spot. At the tightest spot, adjust so you have just a tiny bit of play.. that's the safe bet for minimum play adjustment.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So after routing the new pull cable and replacing it. Basically the "Free Play" area is at the throttle where you can move it kind of back and forth without it revving right?

and the way to tighten it is right by the base of the controls where the cable connects to the throttle? either tighten or loosen? Also wanted to know if you knew if there is a standard setting for the bike or if it is all up to personal preference.

Thanks Again!:thumbup:

Yepper your correct..

Once the cables are in, and the throttle assembled, the lower adjusments take up most of the slack. You want just a little slack in the lower cables (with the bars straight and turned) so there's no binding. You can fine tune the adjustment at the "PUll", screw adjustment at the throttle end if need be. The cable, over time, wil stretch as it wears so keep that in mind as you set things. Its much easier to fine tune at the top.

Yamaha has a specified slack amount however most riders prefer it tighter without binding as it lessens, the "on / off" throttle effect.

I would aim at getting the tension there. It will change slightly when turnng the bars so keep an eye on that.

If set correctly, the throttle should now be nice and smooth, snap closed easily and have almost no play.

Again with your set up(naked conversion), pay close attention to the cable routing avoiding sharp kinks. You may have to change routes, just double check everything..

Just take your time, be patient and use your 10mm wrench in that little space.. You'll be fine.

Refer to the shop manual if need be..

And please post how it goes...:thumbup:

 

[lawlberg]

Yepper your correct..

Once the cables are in, and the throttle assembled, the lower adjusments take up most of the slack. You want just a little slack in the lower cables (with the bars straight and turned) so there's no binding. You can fine tune the adjustment at the "PUll", screw adjustment at the throttle end if need be. The cable, over time, wil stretch as it wears so keep that in mind as you set things. Its much easier to fine tune at the top.

Yamaha has a specified slack amount however most riders prefer it tighter without binding as it lessens, the "on / off" throttle effect.

I would aim at getting the tension there. It will change slightly when turnng the bars so keep an eye on that.

If set correctly, the throttle should now be nice and smooth, snap closed easily and have almost no play.

Again with your set up(naked conversion), pay close attention to the cable routing avoiding sharp kinks. You may have to change routes, just double check everything..

Just take your time, be patient and use your 10mm wrench in that little space.. You'll be fine.

Refer to the shop manual if need be..

And please pst how it goes...:thumbup:

And be sure to tighten down the locknuts. I didn't do a good enough job and it wound up buzzing free a few weeks later. Then the cable came loose and I had no throttle pull left. It's a sad feeling but at least I knew where the problem was.

 

[GuantanamoShrey]

Everything worked out good. Was a little tedious in such a small space but after disconnecting the cable from the throttle , and trying to attach to the TB it was a lot easier.

None of the cables are binding and are routed a little better than before I think.

THere is barely any play and feels a lot more connected and snaps back nicely.

Feels a lot better than how I originally got it lol , always learn something new.

Thank You all for the help:thumbup: