Throttle Body Sync

[FinalImpact]

AIR METERING VALVE bottom where is?

I misunderstood. I thought you were asking about the missing part - not shown. "bottom plate with hoses to TB".

this is screw ?

That nut and spring ^^ moves a metering valve (not shown) by acting against a "bimetallic spring" in the coolant system end of the IACV. Its fixed (white goop) so as to provide COLD vs HOT idle air volume. It acts on a Bimetallic spring moving as coolant temperature changes.

Bottom far right is a long brass looking plunger (AIR METERING VALVE). Acts against the thumb screw setting Air volume for idle speed.

- I'm not sure what your question is or what you want to know. Details perhaps?

 

[valkesz]

The piston on the left side of the picture, where exactly is and how to get it out?

 

[valkesz]

So I built my own manometer (followed the guide on the FZ6 forum) to do my throttle body sync this weekend. After that, I adjusted the idle rev to about 1200rpm, and did some minor adjustments to get them all sync'd up again.

All good so far...

I remember reading in more than one place that people have been revving their engines to 4k RPM to see what the sync looks like in that range. I decided to go ahead and do that, but something weird happens. As soon as I start raising the RPM's, the #3 oil level drops (loses vacuum). By the time I'm at 4k RPM, the #3 tube is completely empty! It does this every time.

What I dont get is how I could get it so perfect at idle, and then have it be that far off at 4k.

 

[FinalImpact]

So I built my own manometer (followed the guide on the FZ6 forum) to do my throttle body sync this weekend. After that, I adjusted the idle rev to about 1200rpm, and did some minor adjustments to get them all sync'd up again.

All good so far...

I remember reading in more than one place that people have been revving their engines to 4k RPM to see what the sync looks like in that range. I decided to go ahead and do that, but something weird happens. As soon as I start raising the RPM's, the #3 oil level drops (loses vacuum). By the time I'm at 4k RPM, the #3 tube is completely empty! It does this every time.

What I dont get is how I could get it so perfect at idle, and then have it be that far off at 4k.

That would be a good time to consider valve lash in the equation.
The engine is a big pump. If all mechanical parts do the same amount of work, the pump achieves balance across all cylinders. If a plug misfires, a valve (intake or exhaust), or even the piston rings are not sealing the same, it changes the efficiency of a cylinder(s) and messes up the balance of the pump. The intake Vacuum sees this imbalance.
- Start with the simple stuff and look at the plugs and cylinder compression.
- Listen to the engine with a wooden stick to your ear and the each cylinder. Do they all sound the same? Do some tap? If some tap and some are quiet, it may be worth while to do a valve lash check.

Start there....