Throttle Body Sync

[pyroclastic]

Decided to Sync the throttle bodies on my '07 FZ6 this afternoon. Read the service manual and this forum to get some hints. I bought my FZ6 at the end of June '07 and have 5120 miles on it. I decided that it was time to do some routine maintenance. I have a Morgan Carbtune Pro and decided to put it to use.

Once I had the tank up (used a bungee cord to hold the tank up as another member suggested :rockon I took the cover off of the airbox and checked the air filter. There was more dirt on the cylinder 3 throttle body location (Cylinder 1 (left) to Cylinder 4 (right) as you are sitting on the bike). I figured that the excessive dirt was due to an mis adjusted throttle body. Thanks to Yamaha the throttle body sync process could not get any easier as they provide four rubber vacuum hoses with plugs in them to connect to your carb/throttle body syncing device. Simply pull out the vacuum plugs and put in a straight coupler and you are off (Autozone sells an assortment of vacuum couplers).

I was amazed that even after 5120 miles that my FZ6 hardly needed any tuning. Cylinder 1 seemed to be the most out of calibration as you use Cylinder number 2 to perform the throttle body sync. Once I had Cylinder 2 calibrated to roughly 22 cmHg, I then followed the service manual to calibrate the remaining cylinders.

After a ride I think that the bike ran smoother, but honestly I think that just readjusting the idle screw did just as much!.

 

[rvbiker]

I was thinking of doing the sync but was not sure what instrument to buy. The carbtune seems to be the only one with numbers on the scale and is necessary for the fz6 since #2 cylinder which is used as a reference has to be a certain value for calibration. Where did you buy yours?:rockon:

 

[mglowe]

...honestly I think that just readjusting the idle screw did just as much!.

I sure hope a sync has more value than a simple adjustment of the idle screw... I just dumped some money on a Morgan Carbtune Kit.

I have read from others, not here, that a throttle body sync now and then is good and some say it is not needed. According to the service mechanic my initial 600 mile service, done at 800+ miles, indicated mine were off a bit.

I tend to change the oil filter every-other oil change so I thought that would be a great time to sync and or verify the throttle bodies. Anyway, the service fees at the dealer are through the roof and this procedure is suppose to be easy. I hope I have not waisted my money... ?

 

[reiobard]

i am planning of synching at least once a year, probably twice, but i get lazy mid summer... if it is nice enough to work on the bike, that means it is nice enough to ride it. So i choose the later option.

 

[Red Wazp]

Has anyone done a write up with pics on how to do a TBS? I do 07 every oil change because it is so easy. I can do a write up if needed. Posting it will be the hard part.

 

[Fred]

Got it covered.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmLwyAPMBLI"]YouTube - How to synchronize your throttle bodies.[/ame]

 

[bmccrary]

False Advertising. There were no naked pictures!

-bryan

 

[moo cow]

thanks fred, that is a great video. takes the mystery out of it.
how much did you spend on the carbtune?

 

[Fred]

Hellgate bought it, so I'm not sure how much it cost. Works good, though.

Fred

 

[Red Wazp]

Nice job Fred, when I did a tech day for the FJR they said to sync to #3 and at idle. What is your source for using #2? Not that it really matters that much.

 

[seansi]

Will this solve an uneven idle?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Will this solve an uneven idle?

If thier out alot, yes.

The rest of the engine should be up to par (valves still within spec's, spark plugs within spec's, etc) clean air filter, for the best results..

A little more detail on your "un-even idle", ie how much variance(in RPM's), was the bike sitting, mileage, mods, RECENT WORK done to the bike, etc that and a audio/video link is worth a thousand words...

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ just a reminder that although a sync "can balance the TB's deliver between each other," if the AFR as a "whole" is off, it does not correct an uneven idle.

To correct the uneven idle the AFR needs to be brought closer to ~12.5:1 (roughly 4.5 to 5.5 %Co). There are three ways to accomplish this once the sync (balancing act) is complete.

Adjust:
A) #1 screw and all others equally. Reset idle speed when done.
B) Through diagnostic mode, change CO (C1/C2 values for fuel offset)
C) If the bike has a fuel controller, manipulate the cell values specific to Zero TPS at 500, 1000, and either 1250 or 1500 RPM depending on controller. Sometimes setting these to ZERO allows the bike to run from the OEM Map and offsets.

The result is changing the %Co value at idle to hedge it on the rich side for a stable running engine roughly 4.5 to 5.5 %Co.

In short, by changing one of the above items these conditions can be met.
Idling condition
Engine idling speed: 1250–1350 r/min
Intake vacuum: 29.0 kPa (8.6 inHg) (218 mmHg)

 

[seansi]

If thier out alot, yes.

The rest of the engine should be up to par (valves still within spec's, spark plugs within spec's, etc) clean air filter, for the best results..

A little more detail on your "un-even idle", ie how much variance(in RPM's), was the bike sitting, mileage, mods, RECENT WORK done to the bike, etc that and a audio/video link is worth a thousand words...

S1, aftermarket exhaust, NGK spark plugs, recent air filter change, 12k miles/
After warmup without touching the throttle the bike will almost run perfectly until I touch the throttle. Then idle moves around 1280-1420. It also depends on the temperature. I noticed one of the colder days it was running smother.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

S1, aftermarket exhaust, NGK spark plugs, recent air filter change, 12k miles/
After warmup without touching the throttle the bike will almost run perfectly until I touch the throttle. Then idle moves around 1280-1420. It also depends on the temperature. I noticed one of the colder days it was running smother.

Prior to the mods, how did it idle?

Sounds like while in "cold mode" your fine, after that is when your issue occurs.

I have to doubt a TBS will fix that hunting idle however, it IS basic MAINTAINANCE and should be done in either case.

Is your air filter OEM? The K&N's seem to flow more air making the situation worse..

Note, should you mess with the CO settings via the dash, WRITE DOWN the ORIGINAL #'S somewhere. The #'s from the factory are almost always different between all the cylinders.

Off hand, with it running ok when cold, (a richer mix) and then when it warms up its running leaner and the issues begin. Bumping the #'s up (richer) may help.

The S2's ECU and O2 sensors make some adjustments up to a point, ie, the S1 is more likely to have lopy idle issues with the mods.

Dunno, never done it, I never changed the stock CO #'s and the idle doesn't vary maybe 50 RPM, tops...

 

[FinalImpact]

S1, aftermarket exhaust, NGK spark plugs, recent air filter change, 12k miles/
After warmup without touching the throttle the bike will almost run perfectly until I touch the throttle. Then idle moves around 1280-1420. It also depends on the temperature. I noticed one of the colder days it was running smother.

Have you adjusted the idle up or down to see if it helps at all?

It may be a candidate for idle air control valve (IACV) cleaning. The coolant passes through IACV which move a rod that opens/closes ports in the IACV to Adjust the idle speed cold to hot. If the rod is stuck it could cause this assuming there are no vacuum leaks, broken T's or cracked/split hoses. Either use carb cleaner or MAF cleaner...

If you remove the bled screws and see chunks of build up on the needle tips, I would recommend valve removal and cleaning. Simply saturating the assembly may not help as you need to get the control rod (AIR METERING VALVE bottom Right) free.

It may be able to be done on the bike but I've never tried. At the least you could remove the thumb screw and using something like a wooden dowel gentle push on the control rod while the engine is hot and see if it moves.

If you mess with the sync screws, write down the current values on paper and then count the clockwise rotations until they seat (be gentle seating them). Once you've gathered that, remove them and inspect them for build up. Mind you an 1/8 to a 1/6 of turn matters so TAKE A PICTURE First! This way you won't make worse at least. The idle can be set to desired RPM.

O/T: While on the topic of TB sync and the Lope, mine will never idle steady until I retard the ignition timing. Which I'm not likely to do right away as its very happy with 11.0° of advance vs stock 5°.

 

[seansi]

Have you adjusted the idle up or down to see if it helps at all?

It may be a candidate for idle air control valve (IACV) cleaning. The coolant passes through IACV which move a rod that opens/closes ports in the IACV to Adjust the idle speed cold to hot. If the rod is stuck it could cause this assuming there are no vacuum leaks, broken T's or cracked/split hoses. Either use carb cleaner or MAF cleaner...

If you remove the bled screws and see chunks of build up on the needle tips, I would recommend valve removal and cleaning. Simply saturating the assembly may not help as you need to get the control rod (AIR METERING VALVE bottom Right) free.

It may be able to be done on the bike but I've never tried. At the least you could remove the thumb screw and using something like a wooden dowel gentle push on the control rod while the engine is hot and see if it moves.

If you mess with the sync screws, write down the current values on paper and then count the clockwise rotations until they seat (be gentle seating them). Once you've gathered that, remove them and inspect them for build up. Mind you an 1/8 to a 1/6 of turn matters so TAKE A PICTURE First! This way you won't make worse at least. The idle can be set to desired RPM.

O/T: While on the topic of TB sync and the Lope, mine will never idle steady until I retard the ignition timing. Which I'm not likely to do right away as its very happy with 11.0° of advance vs stock 5°.

Just got back from a ride. Tuned the idle screw in very small increments and now it's only moving around 80 rpms, mostly idling at 1380. For now I think I'm good. I would really like to synch the throttle bodies but for now I just need to my new tires mounted.

As for the ignition advance, I'd love to get this done but I believe it's too much for atm. I feel confident doing basic stuff but when it comes to internal engine mechanics I feel unsure.

 

[valkesz]

AIR METERING VALVE bottom where is?

 

[FinalImpact]

Not shown in zoom but its flat plate with a rubber seal and 4 tubes going to the TBs....

Look closer here....

 

[valkesz]

Not shown in zoom but its flat plate with a rubber seal and 4 tubes going to the TBs....

Look closer here....

this is screw ?