Thought I was getting a deal. Looks like I'm the sucker!!

FinalImpact

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Fact is there has been plenty of other bikes through here which were sold 'as is' with little or no forthcoming information. OP is not first and if it can be made proper he's got himself a screaming start on a good bike. Although I'm not sure what model the forks came from, inverted radials that adjust are FAR BETTER than anything the OEM fitted. So, he fixes what ever is found to make it proper and then if not satisfied, makes a choice. For the right price, I'd go for it!
 

FinalImpact

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Are you seeing a picture at the url's you've posted? I click on them or past them (url's) to my browser they take me to the cloud server... If you have the pictures. If you don't have them anymore it would seem they are gone or part of our database may not be fully restored. :)

Looks like most of the photos from 'personal albums' are still here but it doesn't make a proper link to display them. All other 'attachments' (pre-upgrade) appear to be MIA! --> Sadness... But, maybe its being worked on! :)


FWIW: From Desktop. upper right is Settings, then bottom left is 'My Settings', Miscellaneous, Attachments. It seems the 'upgrade' changes all of the attachment names so they no longer display the image just a busted link. But if you go to the attachment folder, there are pictures there. Progress comes at a cost I guess...

TEST..... from: http://www.600riders.com/forum/profile.php?do=editattachments&page=1
attachment.php
 
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Naked Stella

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Thanks for the boost in confidence FinalImpact. I think it's beat up, but fixable. I'm at home now, so hopefully pics to come.
 

Naked Stella

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Bike pics with "cosmetic" damages.

-Dent in tank
-Left hand controls plastic broke
-Chain guard held with zip ties
-Motor scratch/gouges

More pics to come along with some questions...
 

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Naked Stella

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I know the coolant is bad. I am planning on flushing it. What kind of coolant do I need to use?
coolant.jpg

What is holding my tank filler cap in place if all the screws are missing? I've pulled on it, and it's not going anywhere.
filler lid.jpg

What is the OEM front and rear tank bolt part numbers? The rear bolt isn't long enough to hold it securely.
tank bolt.jpg

Under the tank: what tubes am I missing on the two little ports coming out? Also what plug am I missing?
tubes.jpg

What are the OEM chain guard bolt numbers?
Chain guard.jpg
 
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FinalImpact

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Take a look here...
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCB Yamaha Motorcycle REAR ARM Diagram and Parts #16

64632d1436227984-thought-i-getting-deal-looks-like-im-sucker-chain-guard-jpg


2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCB Yamaha Motorcycle FUEL TANK Diagram and Parts
No plugs are missing - just vent hose to the ground.
The hardware for the tank mount would be good ebay item.
64631d1436227554-thought-i-getting-deal-looks-like-im-sucker-tubes-jpg


Fluid is pretty much anything modern for aluminum blocks. Just don't run plain water in it. Dump it a couple times and get something fresh in there.

The clearance issue on the front end appears to the be the greatest issue. What are you up for mechanical wise? You good to inspect the nose? Looks like you have your work cut out for you...
 

Naked Stella

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Take a look here...
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCB Yamaha Motorcycle REAR ARM Diagram and Parts #16

64632d1436227984-thought-i-getting-deal-looks-like-im-sucker-chain-guard-jpg


2008 FZ6 - FZS6XCB Yamaha Motorcycle FUEL TANK Diagram and Parts
No plugs are missing - just vent hose to the ground.
The hardware for the tank mount would be good ebay item.
64631d1436227554-thought-i-getting-deal-looks-like-im-sucker-tubes-jpg


Fluid is pretty much anything modern for aluminum blocks. Just don't run plain water in it. Dump it a couple times and get something fresh in there.

The clearance issue on the front end appears to the be the greatest issue. What are you up for mechanical wise? You good to inspect the nose? Looks like you have your work cut out for you...

Thank you for the response and answers. As far as the front end, no I don't have the knowledge or mechanical know how to strip and look at it. I'm planning on taking it to a local shop that has vast knowledge on bikes (sportbikes). The front end is really my only big concern. As long as that checks out I'll be 100% in the confedence department.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The two nipples coming off the bottom of the fuel tank should have hose connected to each. One is an overflow line, the other a vent for the tank. You can see them exiting on the RS of my bike, right near the shifter.


**Is it me or does does that bike appear to be lower in the front than normal(like shorter forks)?


On mine, forks fully extended, from the BOTTOM of the lower triple, to the MIDDLE of the front axle is: 19 & 5/8"


ou may want to see what length your extended forks are..

If their considerably shorter, it'll be considerably more unstable at high speeds..


Double click to enlarge the pic. You can see them hanging downwards..
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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FinalImpact

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^^ Yep! Clipons are above the triple so ride height has been compromised (rake angle too). It could get a tad squirrely at speed. My R6 (non-inverted) are 8mm above the triple and turn and stability are perfect. I've had them past 12mm and that gets dicey at speed. Bare in mind that the early R6 forks are 12mm shorter than OEM forks. In this pic you can see the stanchion tubes above the OEM triple by 8mm (tube not cap).


Click here to view the original image of 1500x1125px.
IMG_0174.JPG
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I guess it would pop out if you unlock it.

Nope....

"What is holding my tank filler cap in place if all the screws are missing? I've pulled on it, and it's not going anywhere.
Thought I was getting a deal. Looks like I'm the sucker!!-filler-lid"



Open the filler cap, there one small allan head bolt UNDER the cap that needs to come off...

Then the the entire assembly comes off..
 

Naked Stella

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^^ Yep! Clipons are above the triple so ride height has been compromised (rake angle too). It could get a tad squirrely at speed. My R6 (non-inverted) are 8mm above the triple and turn and stability are perfect. I've had them past 12mm and that gets dicey at speed. Bare in mind that the early R6 forks are 12mm shorter than OEM forks. In this pic you can see the stanchion tubes above the OEM triple by 8mm (tube not cap).


Click here to view the original image of 1500x1125px.
IMG_0174.JPG

Yes you guys are right. The clip ons are on top of the triple which is causing it to sit lower and causing bars to limit my right turns (bar hits tank). I want to just remove the clip ons and get the FZ1 bars or similar. But that is above my knowledge. Also I want to get the front end inspected before worrying about the bars.

If the front end is screwed up, then I'll probably do the R6 fork conversion and run sort of straight bars.
 

Naked Stella

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Nope....

"What is holding my tank filler cap in place if all the screws are missing? I've pulled on it, and it's not going anywhere.
Thought I was getting a deal. Looks like I'm the sucker!!-filler-lid"



Open the filler cap, there one small allan head bolt UNDER the cap that needs to come off...

Then the the entire assembly comes off..

Yeah I was getting gas today and noticed that. So are the screws just for looks or do they actually have a purpose of holding it down?
 
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FinalImpact

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[MENTION=14469]motojoe122[/MENTION] may have R6 forks and an axle & calipers. You might ping him. In the pic above is stock triple with FZ1 bars and 03-04 R6, 06-09R6S forks. Axle is R6 and calipers are FZ6. But you need wheel spacers and fender hardware too if you go this route. With your ignition moved, I'd see what it takes to make the nose work as is; once the bearing issue is verified. Others have welded up the underside of the triple and installed standard bars on risers bolted to the triple. FZ bars are $35 from yamaha. Your issue is triple used has moved the stanchion tubes back.

Also take note that the rear axle adjuster on yours appears to have the jamb nut against the bolt head vs the swing arm. Sadly its as if anything the PO touched is looking like it needs worked on again to be made proper.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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So are the screws just for looks or do they actually have a purpose of holding it down?

THREE of the bolts showing up top do secure the cap to the tank. And also the one under the cap(the allen head bolt)

Here's a pic of my old tank, double click to enlarge. You can see the threaded holes (12-o-clock, 4 o-clock, and 8 o-clock positions and the Allen head bolt also( in a little more) at 4 o'clock.

The other holes are for the vent and over flow.
 

Naked Stella

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[MENTION=14469]motojoe122[/MENTION] may have R6 forks and an axle & calipers. You might ping him. In the pic above is stock triple with FZ1 bars and 03-04 R6, 06-09R6S forks. Axle is R6 and calipers are FZ6. But you need wheel spacers and fender hardware too if you go this route. With your ignition moved, I'd see what it takes to make the nose work as is; once the bearing issue is verified. Others have welded up the underside of the triple and installed standard bars on risers bolted to the triple. FZ bars are $35 from yamaha. Your issue is triple used has moved the stanchion tubes back.

Also take note that the rear axle adjuster on yours appears to have the jamb nut against the bolt head vs the swing arm. Sadly its as if anything the PO touched is looking like it needs worked on again to be made proper.

Was any of this directed to me?
 

Naked Stella

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THREE of the bolts showing up top do secure the cap to the tank. And also the one under the cap(the allen head bolt)

Here's a pic of my old tank, double click to enlarge. You can see the threaded holes (12-o-clock, 4 o-clock, and 8 o-clock positions and the Allen head bolt also( in a little more) at 4 o'clock.

The other holes are for the vent and over flow.

I guess for now the Allen screw will have to do. I'll just check it's security when I fill up.
 
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