I'm learning to navigate the forum now...ugh. I do have a set of 2007 R6S forks, calipers, and axle. Shoot me a PM.Yes FinalImpact is suggesting you contact motojoe122 on out forum for info on R6 forks.
Thought I was getting a deal. Looks like I'm the sucker!!
Naked Stella
New Member
I appreciate the offer. Once I get the current GSXR nose looked at I will figure out what I'm going to do. Probably try and get it sorted out this week/weekend. I just really really hope its good. I cannot afford to replace it.
Naked Stella
New Member
Well I went by the shop today. They are both fork seals are shot, and either the wheel bearing or steering stem bearings are shot. $200 for forks seals, $65-100 for wheel bearings, and steering stem they have no idea because none of it is stock. Looks like I'll be wrenching my own stuff for now.
Naked Stella
New Member
Well I got the coolant flushed and changed along with the front brake lines (sort of).
The coolant came out about the same color as 50% used motor oil (not as thick). Took 2.5 gallons of water to flush it all out.
Question on the front brake lines. I'm aware that I have a GSX-R calipers not FZ but it shouldn't matter I wouldn't think... Bleeder Nipples, the two on the calipers wouldn't bleed. The only way I got anything out was between the threads and the holes. Does this mean my bleeders have dirt in them and need to be replaced? Neither of them had rubber caps, so I am assuming that's what is going on. The MC I was able to bleed and it had a little bit of air in the line. The front brake isn't as squishy now, but still isn't 100%; I'd say it's closer to 50% rather than the 10-25% I had from the start. Has anyone tried "Speed Bleeders"? Is there any other benefits to them other than you don't have to open / squeeze brake / close / let go of lever type of bleed job?
The coolant came out about the same color as 50% used motor oil (not as thick). Took 2.5 gallons of water to flush it all out.
Question on the front brake lines. I'm aware that I have a GSX-R calipers not FZ but it shouldn't matter I wouldn't think... Bleeder Nipples, the two on the calipers wouldn't bleed. The only way I got anything out was between the threads and the holes. Does this mean my bleeders have dirt in them and need to be replaced? Neither of them had rubber caps, so I am assuming that's what is going on. The MC I was able to bleed and it had a little bit of air in the line. The front brake isn't as squishy now, but still isn't 100%; I'd say it's closer to 50% rather than the 10-25% I had from the start. Has anyone tried "Speed Bleeders"? Is there any other benefits to them other than you don't have to open / squeeze brake / close / let go of lever type of bleed job?
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Sounds like their clogged up. I don't have speed bleeders BUT their supposed to be the cats meow (really neat and easy to use) .
The FJR guys love them, especially with the linked brakes/abs... Their cheap enough and should save you some headaches..
The FJR guys love them, especially with the linked brakes/abs... Their cheap enough and should save you some headaches..
elus1ve
Member
You are in good hands to get your Fz fixed up. Don't give up!
In the picture that you posted before - I was wondering what are those two rusted bolt heads / or whatever they are? And is that your ignition under the seat?
In the picture that you posted before - I was wondering what are those two rusted bolt heads / or whatever they are? And is that your ignition under the seat?
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You are in good hands to get your Fz fixed up. Don't give up!
In the picture that you posted before - I was wondering what are those two rusted bolt heads / or whatever they are? And is that your ignition under the seat?
Great catch, that is the ignition switch below the seat..
For Naked, that is NOT the stock location for the ignition switch. Point being, you may want to re-check his wiring as he definitely added wiring to it..
Naked Stella
New Member
Yeah as long as they aren't too much of a price jump I'll go with the Speed Bleeders.
Naked Stella
New Member
Yeah I know that it isn't stock, and I want to add another spacer to make it more recessed. My leg catches the key sometimes in stop and go traffic.
elus1ve
Member
That's what I thought. You could probably relocate it on the triple again at some point.
What are the two rusted things on the right of the ignition switch? Seems like the frame was drilled through. Don't think it's a critical area of the frame but just wondering what it's for.
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I blew the picture up, someone did drill the frame! They put regular (rusted) bolts thru the frame.
I have to assume, being its next to the switch, there's a homemade bracket holding the ignition switch to the frame there..
Naked Stella
New Member
It is the bolts holding the ignition switch in place. There is an aluminum block behind the frame that the ignition is bolted to. I am going to eventually replace all the rusted bolts and cosmetic stuff. My first plan of attack is getting the forks and front end 100%. That way I have the expensive stuff out of the way and focus on the smaller issues.
Naked Stella
New Member
Thought I'd give everyone an update. I haven't done anything aside from coolant flush, new air filter and washed her. Just been riding and looking over the bike. Someone earlier in the thread said something about the front end being lowered which might cause speed wobble at high speed. They were correct, it does have speed wobble at about 85mph+ on the interstate with the winds from semi's and such. NOT FUN! Also the front wheel bearing is starting to get weak. I also tried to bleed the brakes with no luck. I was able to bleed the MC and that helped a lot. The bleed nipples on the calipers seem to be damaged. I haven't decided what I'm going to do about the GSXR front end. IDK if I should keep it, and fix fork seals. Or do an OEM or R6 swap. I haven't told my wife that the forks aren't stock bc she'd kill me. So the cheapest will probably be the route I take.
I'm due to be out of town for 6+ months here soon, so right now I'm just riding as much as I can safely and then once I get back I'll really dig deep. Fix the gas tank float, maybe clean the inside of the tank, maintenance of course, and just strip her down and maybe repaint it. Just take some time off riding (which will be peak riding time...booo) and give her the TLC she needs. I do want to changed the clip-on to the OEM type bars. Not being able to turn right all the way is getting frustrating. Only down side is I really like the riding position on it now. I mean a couple of inches up wouldn't be too bad (nice for my bad back) but seems like from where they are now under the triple to OEM would be a big change.
Sorry for the novel, but seemed like I should give an update. Once I get back from out of town and start digging into her, I'll probably start another thread depending on what I'm working on. I would like your thoughts and opinions if you have any about anything.
I'm due to be out of town for 6+ months here soon, so right now I'm just riding as much as I can safely and then once I get back I'll really dig deep. Fix the gas tank float, maybe clean the inside of the tank, maintenance of course, and just strip her down and maybe repaint it. Just take some time off riding (which will be peak riding time...booo) and give her the TLC she needs. I do want to changed the clip-on to the OEM type bars. Not being able to turn right all the way is getting frustrating. Only down side is I really like the riding position on it now. I mean a couple of inches up wouldn't be too bad (nice for my bad back) but seems like from where they are now under the triple to OEM would be a big change.
Sorry for the novel, but seemed like I should give an update. Once I get back from out of town and start digging into her, I'll probably start another thread depending on what I'm working on. I would like your thoughts and opinions if you have any about anything.
Naked Stella
New Member
duplicate post, admin please delete. Not a big deal..
Last edited:
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Admin can or just click on "edit post" ,
Erase it all and type "duplicate post, admin please delete". Not a big deal..
Erase it all and type "duplicate post, admin please delete". Not a big deal..
Naked Stella
New Member
Okay got another update, this one is much better news for me. I went and got another opinion from a local shop and turns out he is the only one (out of 3 shops) that has been to MMI and got multiple certificates to work on motorcycles. He has been working on cruisers and sportbikes since 1975.
Anyways he spec'd out my front forks (free of charge) and turns out it is a setup from 2004-05 GSXR 600. The other shop was going to charge me $150-$200 just to do that. He also went ahead and told me a couple of manufactures to call to find out what parts I would need to get the steering stem bearing and front wheel bearings replaced (free of charge). He also said that he could do all that work for $75/hour and it shouldn't take more than 3 hours to complete. That's a grand total of $225 + parts. Now to me that seems like a deal, since the other place was saying $200 just to spec out the forks, then another $200-$300 to do the bearings, and that it may cost up to $1,000 once it was all said and done (that was at $60/hour).
So now that I've gotten a rough estimate that doesn't include me paying 1/2 of what I paid for the bike; I'm about 75% sure I'm going to stick with the fork setup that is on it. I'm just going to remove clip-ons so that I can get the front un-lowered (roughly 1"-2-1/2") and just run either the stock FZ6 bars mounted to the gsxr triple tree, or run the FZ1 bar setup. All I would have to do is drill and thread the triple tree and mount them on.
Any feedback on which bar setup is better and pros and cons on both would be greatly appreciated...
Anyways he spec'd out my front forks (free of charge) and turns out it is a setup from 2004-05 GSXR 600. The other shop was going to charge me $150-$200 just to do that. He also went ahead and told me a couple of manufactures to call to find out what parts I would need to get the steering stem bearing and front wheel bearings replaced (free of charge). He also said that he could do all that work for $75/hour and it shouldn't take more than 3 hours to complete. That's a grand total of $225 + parts. Now to me that seems like a deal, since the other place was saying $200 just to spec out the forks, then another $200-$300 to do the bearings, and that it may cost up to $1,000 once it was all said and done (that was at $60/hour).
So now that I've gotten a rough estimate that doesn't include me paying 1/2 of what I paid for the bike; I'm about 75% sure I'm going to stick with the fork setup that is on it. I'm just going to remove clip-ons so that I can get the front un-lowered (roughly 1"-2-1/2") and just run either the stock FZ6 bars mounted to the gsxr triple tree, or run the FZ1 bar setup. All I would have to do is drill and thread the triple tree and mount them on.
Any feedback on which bar setup is better and pros and cons on both would be greatly appreciated...
Naked Stella
New Member
With the help of [MENTION=21718]ghostdog[/MENTION] I now have a sturdy gas tank, and breather tubes for it. Just got to figure out how PO ghetto rigged the left hand control assembly so I can replace it with the new one... Ran the wires all weird.