This bike gets one more chance before I sell it.

[DarkNinja75]

I did my first road trip on this bike over the weekend. It was about 400 miles to Yosemite National Park. I went with my girlfriend on the back, and my friend and his girlfriend on the back. He was on an '07 FZ6 while mine is an '08. Mountainous roads, lots of twisties with speeds around 30-50mph.

The abrupt on/off fuel injection is intolerable. It's incredibly unsettling and borderline dangerous. I have a 1995 Ninja 500 (with '88 technology) that's smoother than this. I'd roll off throttle before a turn, get back on, and enjoy a huge lurch. It got so bad that I modified my technique to keep on the throttle and drag the rear brake to scrub speed.

I'm not a beginner; it's not lack of rider ability. This is my 8th bike and I run in A group on the track. This is horrible engineering (likely caused by emissions restrictions). It should be fun, not stressful. I'm not alone on this; my buddy who I was with was thinking the exact same thing. We both stopped for a break and I said, "The fuel injection on this thing is horrible. I'm selling this bike." He replied," I was thinking the exact same thing."

I've read about the solutions. Power Commander, ECU flash, and Dynotune. But I'm not going to spend and extra $1000 to smooth out a problem that should have been fixed from the factory.

I'm going to try the G2 ergonomics tamer. If that doesn't fix it to my satisfaction, I'll be done with this bike and hunting for a Vstrom or VFR800. The only reason I'm even giving it another chance is because it's comfortable, versatile, and reliable.

 

[greg]

I've not ridden the S2, but I find it's ok provided I keep the engine singing. The throttle response on my CBR was fantastic though in comparison. I only find it choppy at low RPMs

 

[DarkNinja75]

I've not ridden the S2, but I find it's ok provided I keep the engine singing. The throttle response on my CBR was fantastic though in comparison. I only find it choppy at low RPMs

You're right, it's only abrupt from the on/off position. But when I go into a turn, I roll off, brake, then roll on, so the problem occurs nearly at every turn. My old FI bikes were a TL1000R, SV650, '08 GSXR750, and F4i. Nothing anywhere near this bad.

 

[greg]

i guess I keep it in a lower gear when going around a corner, I like to keep the revs around 5-8k on a "spirited" ride when cornering, so that I can power out the exit, and also use engine braking if I need it

 

[outasight20]

How long have you had the bike for? It really just takes some getting used to. Yeah, it is a very on/off throttle, but you can adjust for this by being very smooth with your right wrist. I've ridden a VFR800, Bandit 1200, Ninja 500/250, Vulcan 500. I would agree they all have a much smoother throttle. I still wouldn't trade my bike for any of those though.

 

[Ssky0078]

When I had my Fz6 I found there were a few things to help with the abrupt on off.

1. Adjust the throttle cable play. I did this on my bike and it helped about 20-30%.

2. Do the throttle body sync. I did this and found the throttle response was a about another 20% better.

3. Keep the rpms cranked up. I found that under 6-7k rpm the throttle response was crappy but, up above in the 8-10k range it was a lot better.

 

[why_not_Zoidberg?]

How long have you had the bike for? It really just takes some getting used to. Yeah, it is a very on/off throttle, but you can adjust for this by being very smooth with your right wrist. I've ridden a VFR800, Bandit 1200, Ninja 500/250, Vulcan 500. I would agree they all have a much smoother throttle. I still wouldn't trade my bike for any of those though.

Yeah, I've got to agree with you, it takes some getting used to. I've ridden 7+ hour trips with the gf on the back, and I didn't have any problems. Sounds like you just need some more touch.

Or get a different bike and you don't have to get used to something new

 

[rider1a]

The abrupt on/off fuel injection is intolerable. It's incredibly unsettling and borderline dangerous. I have a 1995 Ninja 500 (with '88 technology) that's smoother than this. I'd roll off throttle before a turn, get back on, and enjoy a huge lurch. It got so bad that I modified my technique to keep on the throttle and drag the rear brake to scrub speed.

That has been my case on most Japanese and German bikes that are fuel injected. On the BMW, there is a cheap device called Booster Plug that richens up the fuel mixture and solves the problem. It costs $150 and works great!

On the FZ6, I had the PC3. You can snag a used one for about $150 bucks. If your're bike is stock, there are plenty of free PC maps you can download that will solve the problem. Sometimes, doing a throttle body sync can help too.

 

[FinalImpact]

Its touchy and you must be paying attention - its not like riding a cruiser or an older carbed bike! Granted its not great, its not a sell the bike issue for most of us. I guess we have adapted to each other! :thumbup:

Did it get worse with elevation change?

 

[DownrangeFuture]

That has been my case on most Japanese and German bikes that are fuel injected. On the BMW, there is a cheap device called Booster Plug that richens up the fuel mixture and solves the problem. It costs $150 and works great!

On the FZ6, I had the PC3. You can snag a used one for about $150 bucks. If your're bike is stock, there are plenty of free PC maps you can download that will solve the problem. Sometimes, doing a throttle body sync can help too.

Yeah... I find it hard to believe that an A level racer would talk about this. Every supersport I've had the pleasure of riding is worse than the FZ6 save the GSX-R. The GSX-R fixes this by extending the throttle turn to well over a 1/4 turn to WOT. About 120 degrees IIRC. Helps to hide jerky throttle control and bad clutch habits. By comparison the R6 and R1 throttles take about 72 degrees of rotation to go WOT. Huge difference

If the jerk is as bad as you say, then you're more than likely nailing the throttle and dumping the clutch. You also mentioned an SV650 and a Ninja 500. The 88 has a carb and bad throttle lag, hides your bad throttle control, and the SV650 is a twin with a far smoother power curve.

Making it worse is you're probably chopping throttle when it scares you and that just intensifies the effect.

Sorry if I'm way off, but my BS meter was pegging reading your post and I'm in a pissy mood from my :squid: cube mate.

 

[nixter]

I love this bike but that's my main gripe. I bought a throttle tamer for $70 last year which helped quite a bit but the issue is still there somewhat. People will always say "you just have to get used to it" but that's a poor excuse for something that just should have been designed better.

 

[Ssky0078]

I love this bike but that's my main gripe. I bought a throttle tamer for $70 last year which helped quite a bit but the issue is still there somewhat. People will always say "you just have to get used to it" but that's a poor excuse for something that just should have been designed better.

If you think about the design of the Fz series it is detuned race engines thrown on to an ergonomically more comfortable frame than a full supersport. Basically it is left over motors and cheap parts (suspension, exhaust) thrown together for cheap way to make money off their surplus race materials.

The engine is designed to be signing from 7-8k up to 12-13k. That's where the power band is and despite the detuning that is the sweet spot for running on the bike.

 

[DarkNinja75]

How long have you had the bike for? It really just takes some getting used to. Yeah, it is a very on/off throttle, but you can adjust for this by being very smooth with your right wrist. I've ridden a VFR800, Bandit 1200, Ninja 500/250, Vulcan 500. I would agree they all have a much smoother throttle. I still wouldn't trade my bike for any of those though.

I've only owned it for a month. That said, I adjusted from the throttle on my F3 (I-4 600) to my TLR (V-twin 1000) in half that time. This time I went from an F4i (I-4 600) to the FZ6, which should be a pretty straight across transition. But there's a huge difference.

When I had my Fz6 I found there were a few things to help with the abrupt on off.

1. Adjust the throttle cable play. I did this on my bike and it helped about 20-30%.

2. Do the throttle body sync. I did this and found the throttle response was a about another 20% better.

3. Keep the rpms cranked up. I found that under 6-7k rpm the throttle response was crappy but, up above in the 8-10k range it was a lot better.

1. Throttle play is adjusted where I like it.

2. At 5k miles? I would expect it to still be in sync.

3. That helped. Higher gears helped as well.

Its touchy and you must be paying attention - its not like riding a cruiser or an older carbed bike! Granted its not great, its not a sell the bike issue for most of us. I guess we have adapted to each other! :thumbup:

Did it get worse with elevation change?

It got worse with higher elevation. Most of the trip was at 5000 feet.

Yeah... I find it hard to believe that an A level racer would talk about this. Every supersport I've had the pleasure of riding is worse than the FZ6 save the GSX-R. The GSX-R fixes this by extending the throttle turn to well over a 1/4 turn to WOT. About 120 degrees IIRC. Helps to hide jerky throttle control and bad clutch habits. By comparison the R6 and R1 throttles take about 72 degrees of rotation to go WOT. Huge difference

If the jerk is as bad as you say, then you're more than likely nailing the throttle and dumping the clutch. You also mentioned an SV650 and a Ninja 500. The 88 has a carb and bad throttle lag, hides your bad throttle control, and the SV650 is a twin with a far smoother power curve.

Making it worse is you're probably chopping throttle when it scares you and that just intensifies the effect.

Sorry if I'm way off, but my BS meter was pegging reading your post and I'm in a pissy mood from my :squid: cube mate.

I'm not an A level racer, I'm an A group track rider, albeit back of the pack A group A level racer would be doing 1:50 at my local track (Thunder Hill) while I do 2:05.

I've ridden a CBR600RR as well and the throttle was way smoother...as well as the F3, and both F4is I owned.

I don't chop the throttle as it scares me, I keep rolling on and lean further. But the roll on is horribly jerky. I can hear it as the engine is slowly getting more fuel. Hard to replicate in text, but as I'm rolling back on (from completely off) it will rev...rev..rev.revrevrev. There's also no clutch involvement here. If I'm in 4th gear, I'll set up for a turn, roll off, brake to a suitable entry speed, and roll back on without needing to shift. But I'll trail brake as well, and hitting the throttle mid-corner with that sudden lurch isn't fun.

(You can Youtube look up DarkNinja75 if you wish to judge my :squid:liness. There's a few track videos on there.)

 

[iSteve]

Make sure your idle is set around 1300rpm. Downshift before the corner so your never really off the throttle completely through the whole conner.

When I first got the fz I thought it was a little jerky also but now I don't even noticed.

 

[FinalImpact]

Being in 4th gear as indicated above - yes, downshift before the corner so it stands a chance of pulling it off.

 

[SweaterDude]

the "fuel-cut" as many people call it is a little annoying but its not a deal-breaker for the bike. riding the FZ will make your throttle control "smood like buttah" and when you jump on another bike you will be better off. i forget who said it but:

"twist the throttle, don't roll it" - be smooth match yer RPM and it will disappear, i dont even notice it on my bike anymore except when i get off the highway and just coast.

 

[ChevyFazer]

I had a 04 and it had the "choppiest" throttle of them all, but I found 2 solutions. 1st was never fully disengage the throttle and it will stay buttery smooth, and my favorite solution was always keep it WFO!

 

[n0other]

Light switch throttle was a major downside to me as well, I've bough a PC3 just for that reason and it solved it. If I were you I'd be looking for used PC3USB, shouldn't be too hard being in US, also 15T front sprocket helps somewhat with the clunky gearbox (probably due to being in higher rpms) and I found that using a good synthetic oil helps with it as well. That were the only two things I didn't like about this bike and they are solvable.

 

[Nelly]

I'm going to try the G2 ergonomics tamer.

Did you try this? any rider reports?

Neil:thumbup:

 

[DarkNinja75]

Did you try this? any rider reports?

Neil:thumbup:

It's in the mail. I'll post an update once I install it.