stiff ignition and exhaust manifold bolts advice

[Dannyrose1]

Hi guys gad a bit of a problem with my ignition barrel
Its very stiff and you need to wiggle the keys and turn it for it to turn on
And wiggle it to put the steering lock on i feel like if i dont wiggle
It my key is going to snap/twist/bend now before you say lubricate it
I have! Many times and has made virtually no difference
Any ideas? Is there a way i can take it off and apart to clean ans relube?

Also on the exhausts manifold theres a big build up of crud dirt salt
Rust but only on the exhaust manifold very close to the engine

(i wash my bike regularly) i would like to take the exhaust manifold off
And polish them up silver again propper job. The bolts seem rusted and corroded
Should i not chance it and tackle it on the bike? Or attempt to take them off? Just so i can sit on a chair and clean them on my lap rather than laying on the floor outside in the cold

Again cheers for any advice
Dan:thumbup:

 

[bdevries]

Hi guys gad a bit of a problem with my ignition barrel
Its very stiff and you need to wiggle the keys and turn it for it to turn on
And wiggle it to put the steering lock on i feel like if i dont wiggle
It my key is going to snap/twist/bend now before you say lubricate it
I have! Many times and has made virtually no difference
Any ideas? Is there a way i can take it off and apart to clean ans relube?

Also on the exhausts manifold theres a big build up of crud dirt salt
Rust but only on the exhaust manifold very close to the engine

(i wash my bike regularly) i would like to take the exhaust manifold off
And polish them up silver again propper job. The bolts seem rusted and corroded
Should i not chance it and tackle it on the bike? Or attempt to take them off? Just so i can sit on a chair and clean them on my lap rather than laying on the floor outside in the cold

Again cheers for any advice
Dan:thumbup:

Unfortunately I dont have any answer for your first question.. but as for the manifolds, I can offer some advice. I would spray them daily with WD40 and gently nudge them. Then at the end of the week try and turn them gently, if they don't budge at all, it's not worth the risk.
As for polishing, you may actually find it easier to do them on the bike. *edit: just re-read your post.. I wouldn't want to do them outside in the cold right now either.If they're on your lap they'll be sliding all over the palce and youll wish that they were held in place so you could use both hands to polish. Once it's up on the center stand, you can easily sit on the floor and polish them rightin front of you. I attached a pic of mine after I did them a few weeks ago.

 

[greg]

I use ACF50 on my bolts, and copper grease on the threads, to prevent corrosion

Be warned that ACF50 will smoke a lot the first time it gets hot.


As for the ignition barrel, silicone spray, and wiggling is what I do.

 

[FinalImpact]

If the key is worn, it may be the tumblers which are not actually aligning to the proper depth to allow the barrel to rotate. Try another key or if you have the key code, have a new one ground.

Also, motor oil is not the worst thing on a lock either. IT WILL POOR our the bottom and make a mess. A penetrating lube will loosen the sediment and debris and get the tumblers moving, but it doesn't last. The oil will stay longer. Kinda messy at first tho so plan on wiping the key off lots.


VERY WELL SAID ABOVE!!!
[MENTION=25132]bdevries[/MENTION] << +5 :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Exactly what I'd do! Soak them daily and ride it. It will smoke but the method works! Daily for a week! Don't forget the ones under the bike!

 

[iSteve]

The only thing you should use on locks is graphite (sometimes caller lock lube). If it's all gunned up with other things then use a contact cleaner or other cleaner that won't leave a residue first.

 

[Wildcat_drvr]

My key does the same thing!Got a can of liquid graphite,does a pretty good job.It has a plastic tube that goes down inside cylinder and gets the stuff where it needs to go.I highly recommend it.Rich

 

[Dannyrose1]

All i can say about your exhaust manifold is wow!!!!!
That is so shiny i almost cant believe it. can i just pay you to do mine?...
Haha thanks for the advice ill wait for spring to do the exhausts
I think i have faith they will come up nicely,
As for the key im going to try the new key that is the spare see if its any different
If not ill give that graphite stuff a try! Yeah i realised alot of whatever you put in the ignition barrel will most definitely comw out of the bottom haha!

Thought ide add that i had a puncture on the rear monday piece of steel? Manages to get it patched and held... And today i finish work and find a piece of twisted barb wire in my freaking tyre!!! This weather is kicking up so much crap into the middle of the road
Had to leave the bike in work for the weekend i doubt this one can be patched so a pricey
New tyre i think (( safe to say swear words wear said
13 thousand miles and i get 2 punctures in the same week crap luck.

 

[FinalImpact]

IMO grahite has its place and this is not it. Its meant for usage in dry locations not an open use like this lock. Although it may in fact work, the original conditions as supplied by Yamaha was grease.

In the interest of getting it moving again, (if its not worn or broken), to some extent you need solvent type liquids and then a lasting lubricant.

Getting it moving w/out snapping the key seems vital. Grahpite has little to nothing to break down grime and if mixed with grease, can get very sticky...

Here is post from the past on this very topic. Graphite vs lube: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/10978-ignition-switch-lubrication-help.html#post137121