Spinning grind then clunk from neutral

VEGASRIDER

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A similar thread was just posted but I'm having the same issues simply from when the bike gets started in neutral and put into first gear. It's almost like putting it into gear without using the clutch. There is a grinding spinning sound then clunk, it's in gear. I pull in the clutch and my bike does roll in gear when the engine is off so I don't think it's the clutch or cable. I turned up my idle to help me do Motogymkhana a while back ago so that could be part of the problem. I'm going to try turning it back down and see if that helps.

In the meantime, I try to start my bike in gear and take off from a start from the get go. I may let it warm up in neutral but I will shut if off then start it back up in gear then take off so I don't hear that ugly sound. There seems no issues in shifting or downshifting. Just from neutral.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Lowering the idle will definitly help.

I have mine set at about 1100, less clunk, more engine braking, no vibs in rt mirror, (slight voltage discharge at idle)

Also, holding the clutch in for couple of seconds before dropping into first gear also helps..

Obviously, the clutch cable properly lubed and adjusted is critical..
 

FinalImpact

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Kenny, what is the Temperature there and what oil do you have in it? Old Oil and COLD temperature may be holding the plates together.

As stated, verify clutch lever movement up top equates to lever movement at the clutch case below. If the cables is smooth but about to break it could be stretching. How many miles on this cable?

Has this bike hit the 100,000 mile mark?

My location has some slope to it so I start rolling and drop the bike into gear to reduce the clunk on cold days. As Scott mentioned, I also exercise the clutch several times before dropping the hammer on the shifter!

But - is this doing it on a fully warm engine??
 

Motogiro

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If it rolls in gear with the engine off and clutch lever pulled, I would expect an oil problem or a problem internally with the clutch.

I use Mobile 1 synthetic and when it gets about 3000 miles on it I notice my clutch plates don't release. If I put it in gear when the oil is not warmed I get a harsh clunk once the oil is old. If your doing more clutch workouts in your recent activities there may be a heated component in the clutch assembly that has changed by temp or mechanical stress. As previously said, bring your idle back when not doing Motogymkhana but more import change your oil now and look for any fine metallic component in the oil. It will be more visible in sunlight and could indicate clutch damage. After the oil change the clutch may act normally and you will know it was a change in the oil property.
 

VEGASRIDER

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I will adjust the cable best I can, but once again the bike does roll freely when you squeeze the lever in gear with the engine off.

The oil has 500 miles or less, recently changed but it is damn cold here in Idaho. Temps down into the teens. I try to let it warm up best I can.

I will also lower the idle like I had mentioned and hold in the clutch lever a bit longer before I try to engage.

I'm just a few hundred miles away from rolling 100k, but the weather here in Idaho has been miserable for the past week. Hasn't even gotten close to 30 degrees and the 6-8 inches of snow that fell last week is still here. The side street is not rideable, although the major surface streets are clear there are 3-4 inches thick of ruts that are in the center of the lanes so I have to choose my path of travel very carefully. I tried getting fuel the other day and couldn't get into the station since everything off the major surface streets are still essentially a sheet of ice. I had to dismount and walk my bike back to dry land. If I would have dropped my bike, it would have been impossible to pick it up by myself because of the surface conditions. I've been walking a lot!
 
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ChanceCoats123

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As said above, try the clutch cable adjustment. Rolling in gear with the engine off is a much different situation internally. You can easily overcome any extra friction which causes the two shafts to be tied together (inadvertently), but once the engine is up and running, the crank side of the clutch is spinning about 20 times a second (for a normal idle) and yours is even higher. With potentially sticking clutch plates, you have a very small window to get the dogs engaged before the shaft rotates again. My bet is if the cable got stretched over time, or your oil is getting older like Motogiro mentioned, you might have a little more clutch engagement than you think.
 

darius

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I'm just a few hundred miles away from rolling 100k, but the weather here in Idaho has been miserable for the past week. Hasn't even gotten close to 30 degrees and the 6-8 inches of snow that fell last week is still here. The side street is not rideable, although the major surface streets are clear there are 3-4 inches thick of ruts that are in the center of the lanes so I have to choose my path of travel very carefully. I tried getting fuel the other day and couldn't get into the station since everything off the major surface streets are still essentially a sheet of ice. I had to dismount and walk my bike back to dry land. If I would have dropped my bike, it would have been impossible to pick it up by myself because of the surface conditions. I've been walking a lot!

:eek: Damn Kenny. As hardcore as you are, be safe this winter.
 

FinalImpact

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I will adjust the cable best I can, but once again the bike does roll freely when you squeeze the lever in gear with the engine off.

The oil has 500 miles or less, recently changed but it is damn cold here in Idaho. Temps down into the teens. I try to let it warm up best I can.

I will also lower the idle like I had mentioned and hold in the clutch lever a bit longer before I try to engage.

I'm just a few hundred miles away from rolling 100k, but the weather here in Idaho has been miserable for the past week. Hasn't even gotten close to 30 degrees and the 6-8 inches of snow that fell last week is still here. The side street is not rideable, although the major surface streets are clear there are 3-4 inches thick of ruts that are in the center of the lanes so I have to choose my path of travel very carefully. I tried getting fuel the other day and couldn't get into the station since everything off the major surface streets are still essentially a sheet of ice. I had to dismount and walk my bike back to dry land. If I would have dropped my bike, it would have been impossible to pick it up by myself because of the surface conditions. I've been walking a lot!

Hasn't gotten close to 30°F meaning its ABOVE or BELOW 30?

What weight of oil?

A suggestion although it may not work in the snow.
- Engine off, clutch in, trans in 1st gear, roll the bike just far enough to free the plates.
- Then put it into N and continue holding clutch IN and start it.
- Once idling, Exercise clutch. Although a heat lamp to the sump at night may not be the worst think ever.

Q? Does it behave normal after being ran for 20"?
 

Motogiro

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I will adjust the cable best I can, but once again the bike does roll freely when you squeeze the lever in gear with the engine off.

The oil has 500 miles or less, recently changed but it is damn cold here in Idaho. Temps down into the teens. I try to let it warm up best I can.

I will also lower the idle like I had mentioned and hold in the clutch lever a bit longer before I try to engage.

I'm just a few hundred miles away from rolling 100k, but the weather here in Idaho has been miserable for the past week. Hasn't even gotten close to 30 degrees and the 6-8 inches of snow that fell last week is still here. The side street is not rideable, although the major surface streets are clear there are 3-4 inches thick of ruts that are in the center of the lanes so I have to choose my path of travel very carefully. I tried getting fuel the other day and couldn't get into the station since everything off the major surface streets are still essentially a sheet of ice. I had to dismount and walk my bike back to dry land. If I would have dropped my bike, it would have been impossible to pick it up by myself because of the surface conditions. I've been walking a lot!

Burrrrrr!
Get the oil warm and see if it behaves. Also make sure you've change to the oil weight recommendation for cold weather. :)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The oil has 500 miles or less, recently changed but it is damn cold here in Idaho. Temps down into the teens. I try to let it warm up best I can.

I will also lower the idle like I had mentioned and hold in the clutch lever a bit longer before I try to engage.

I'm just a few hundred miles away from rolling 100k, but the weather here in Idaho has been miserable for the past week. Hasn't even gotten close to 30 degrees and the 6-8 inches of snow that fell last week is still here.

Agreed with the previous posts re the oil thickness and the cold temps.

Just as an FYI, when I change my oil, (say its 80F down here), to get the oil reasonably warm, I have to ride the bike for about 3 miles

The water temp will rise faster, but the oil takes MUCH LONGER TO HEAT. Just feel your clutch cover and you'll see..

With those temps, is the bike garaged? Also, if possible, either heating the garage some or (as I re-call before moving south) they had a product that I think attached to the bottom of the engine, plugged into a 110 outlet and kept the oil from getting so cold. On cars, it attached to the oil pan somehow...(maybe a heated dipstick??)..

Besides helping the starrting out clutch issue, it would definitly help with the longevity of the engine for year round, northern riding.

Cold start up (as you likely know), is when you get most of your wear and tear on the engine...
 

FinalImpact

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Keep the bike in the bedroom. Problem solved! Blah

OR...... :rockon::rockon: Blah

newlove.jpg
 
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