Snapped Exhaust Stud....now what?

[bryancraftyhands]

Usually exhaust studs are removable and replaceable on any engine in any vehicle. I would avoid using a tap out on these aluminum heads so long as I could. Heavy 24 hour soaking of PB Blast, even though in theory everything is aluminum and shouldn't have rusted, studs probably are not,,vice grips and a hand held propane or map torch along with a sizeable dose of patience will usually do the trick.

 

[Athosch97]

Hello again everyone, thankyou for your interest again! Here is the picture. So I stopped when both of them broke cuz I got scared that if all 4 of them would snap I would have to load the bike and get it to someone that knows how to fix this(atleast know I can ride it there), I don't know if I trust myself enough to do this kind of job on my own, I do have a torch but not an easy out kit and I'm not really confident on continuing. I might take it to someone that knows how to do this flawlessly and I might get them all replaced so I don't have to deal with this kind of struggle again. Do you guys think that it will be an expensive job for someone to do for me? (I'm sorry for the bad quality photo)
P.S. I am waiting for my rear shock to arrive cuz I sent it for repair and I thought polishing the exhaust would kill some time little did I know that it would f-me up like this ;p

 

[bryancraftyhands]

I certainly wouldn't use an easy out if at all possible. These studs are usually steel, and they are in an aluminum head.
Are you turning these the correct way? (leave no stone unturned)
Using an impact driver?
Jerking on these nuts? (not meant to sound the way it does)
If you proceed to go any further, soak the rest in PB blast. Spray on every 4 hours the rest of the day for about 3 to 4 applications and let sit overnight before doing any more. Use a long breaker bar, as long as you can get on and use, or a pipe as an extension on a ratchet, to apply high torque with gentle effort, turning counter clockwise (just in case).
I have found turning some bolts too fast will lead to snapping, impacts the same, while using a long handled breaker bar, and a very slow even twist will not.
As for pulling out the 2 that are already broke, again, the PB blast soak, heat and GOOD vice grips should work. (cheaper quality may slip and twist easier) Maybe have a pipe that will fit over the adjusting nut side of the handle to give that extra slow twist high torque, an needle nose variety may be better suited, but may not be, considering.
As for expense of someone else doing it, expensive is relative. That depends on what you consider expensive.
Cost is localized. How much people are going to charger per hour is going to be different in your area than another persons.
How much time it could take depends on if the rest come out easy as they should or continue to do what they are doing.
Who you take it to is a matter to be considered. A shop or person that specializes in bikes will probably give you best results, but may charge more. Any decent auto mechanic could probably it, may or may not charge less and may or may not give you the same results. Your uncles best friend who works on their car could probably do it, probably for less, results may vary.
Time to get to doing it can vary too, depending on their current workloads.
I just looked at where you are from, if you don't have PB blast there, find something equivalent. Apologies.

 

[Gary in NJ]

You snapped two…well done. When you remove the pipes there should be enough bolt protruding to grab with a GOOD vice grip. As mentioned above use a penetrant 24 hours in advance of removal.

 

[Athosch97]

I certainly wouldn't use an easy out if at all possible. These studs are usually steel, and they are in an aluminum head.
Are you turning these the correct way? (leave no stone unturned)
Using an impact driver?
Jerking on these nuts? (not meant to sound the way it does)
If you proceed to go any further, soak the rest in PB blast. Spray on every 4 hours the rest of the day for about 3 to 4 applications and let sit overnight before doing any more. Use a long breaker bar, as long as you can get on and use, or a pipe as an extension on a ratchet, to apply high torque with gentle effort, turning counter clockwise (just in case).
I have found turning some bolts too fast will lead to snapping, impacts the same, while using a long handled breaker bar, and a very slow even twist will not.
As for pulling out the 2 that are already broke, again, the PB blast soak, heat and GOOD vice grips should work. (cheaper quality may slip and twist easier) Maybe have a pipe that will fit over the adjusting nut side of the handle to give that extra slow twist high torque, an needle nose variety may be better suited, but may not be, considering.
As for expense of someone else doing it, expensive is relative. That depends on what you consider expensive.
Cost is localized. How much people are going to charger per hour is going to be different in your area than another persons.
How much time it could take depends on if the rest come out easy as they should or continue to do what they are doing.
Who you take it to is a matter to be considered. A shop or person that specializes in bikes will probably give you best results, but may charge more. Any decent auto mechanic could probably it, may or may not charge less and may or may not give you the same results. Your uncles best friend who works on their car could probably do it, probably for less, results may vary.
Time to get to doing it can vary too, depending on their current workloads.
I just looked at where you are from, if you don't have PB blast there, find something equivalent. Apologies.

Appreciate the reply Bryan! Yeah I am terrified using an easy out to be honest in case I drill too far and there's no going back from that!
As for turning them in the correct way, yeheah I had already took out t other 4 screws and the 5th one snapped, I decided to skip the second one that snapped because it would be impossible for me to ride without atleast 1 on.
I will try soaking them in WD-40 I don't know if it will work as expected, Heat those suckers up and make sure no more snap, just like you said, I will take it slowly and steady and try to fix it on my own just for the satisfaction of it ;p
Hopefully I won't mess it up. I really appreciate the help Bryan!! I will post in this thread for the update most probably until Tuesday because tomorrow I won't be able to work on the bike. Just got excited now! Wish me luck! ;p

 

[Athosch97]

You snapped two…well done. When you remove the pipes there should be enough bolt protruding to grab with a GOOD advice grip. As mentioned above use a penetrant 24 hours in advance of removal.

That well done hit me in the feels.. ahahah As I said above I'll try to not snap the other 2 and take those suckers out! Appreciate you Gary!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

An acetylene torch on the remaining nuts, till red hot, should allow them to break loose.

Any decent machine shop should be able to get them out W/O issue.

 

[Gary in NJ]

An acetylene torch on the remaining nuts, till red hot, should allow them to break loose.

Any decent machine shop should be able to get them out W/O issue.

I was just dropping by to say this.

 

[bryancraftyhands]

I was going to mention machine shop too, but thought they would not want the whole bike, just the heads. Anyone have an experience with such things?

 

[Athosch97]

I started the process of oiling the rest of the studs+nuts, but I might trying stopping by a machine shop just to ask if they can work on it while assembled! Thanks all! Also, as Bryan mentioned, if anyone has any experience with that it would be appreciated!

 

[Athosch97]

Greetings again! Just an update, I managed to get the first one out, the other one snapped deeper. Since I’m not going to drill because I’m scared of damaging the head I will probably take it to someone that is a specialist and has the right tools! Once again thankyou all for the help!

 

[bryancraftyhands]

Aww man! What a way to kick you when your down.
Glad to hear of the partial success. Best wishes with who ever you take it to.

 

[gnyce]

Greetings again! Just an update, I managed to get the first one out, the other one snapped deeper. Since I’m not going to drill because I’m scared of damaging the head I will probably take it to someone that is a specialist and has the right tools! Once again thankyou all for the help!

machine shop is probably best. But if you insist on doing yourself, I would (personally) do something like:
- centering drill bits to make a hole in the center of the remaining bolt
- https://www.amazon.com/self-centering-drill-bit/s?k=self+centering+drill+bit
- then take a torx bit, slightly larger than the hole, tap it in with a hammer, then use a socket wrench to move.
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J0TF6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
The torx bit method has worked several times for me... even better than extractors and left-handed drill bits.

Good luck!

 

[Athosch97]

machine shop is probably best. But if you insist on doing yourself, I would (personally) do something like:
- centering drill bits to make a hole in the center of the remaining bolt
- https://www.amazon.com/self-centering-drill-bit/s?k=self+centering+drill+bit
- then take a torx bit, slightly larger than the hole, tap it in with a hammer, then use a socket wrench to move.
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J0TF6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
The torx bit method has worked several times for me... even better than extractors and left-handed drill bits.

Good luck!

Hmm well, my rear shock didn't arrive yet, I might try one more time welding a nut on it if not and I feel confident I'll try that! Appreciate the advice!

 

[Gary in NJ]

The heat from welding a nut on should also break the mechanical bond of the galvanic corrosion.