Signal 50
Junior Member
I am hesitent to title this an installation, but I'm hoping it will help some other members. I started documenting my progress as I went but it trailed off a bit when dinner was ready, then again when I got frustrated near the end.
To start off I compiled all the parts on my kitchen table. Open everything and see how many of which nuts and bolts you have. The nuts and bolts figure themselves out as you progress.
To starts, each plastic side of the headlight gets a nutstrip at the proper location. I had to bend mine in a bit to give them a little tension. The top bolt gets the longer hex cap screw and a spacer pressed into it.
Before you assemble both sides of the headlight, the middle bolt hole gets a rubber grommet and will later get a bolt and washer to mount to the mounting bracket.
So far this should clear up all three mounting points on the headlight and the side overs for it.
This picture shows the right side assembled. You can just make out at the top the nut strip and spacer to it's right. On the bottom you use only the nut strip for the mounting hardware.
I chose to leave my blinkers off for now but I would think either now, or before you install the headlight to the mounting bracket would be a wise time to install them.
With the headlight and side plastics put together, or should I say at least "figured out" I moved onto removing my half fairing.
I was a little unsure of where to start so I kind of just guessed. I hadn't done any work which included removing my front fairing but I got it right.
To begin removing my fairing I took all the allen cap screws out of the exterior and the inside where the gauges sit. I removed the plastics completely to gain access to the front of the works and the wiring harnesses. You'll want to disconnect the harnesses at this point to save yourself some heartache.
The two bolts in the middle of the picture hold a larger bracket onto the forks, which is the main support for the fairing. Remove these two bolts to remove the front fairing. At this point, I left my wiring harnesses connected because I wasn't sure if they should be or not. They WILL need to be disconnected, I'd advise on disconnecting them BEFORE removing the fairing. I was lucky enough to have my roommate around who held the fairing in place while we buggered with the harnesses.
At this point you'll be left with the fairing ready to come off. The wiring harness and speedo need to be removed. I took off the two screws that hold the blinkers on, which will give you some slack in the harness. The two bolts holding the mirrors and several phillips head screws need to come out to removed the wiring harness and speedo.
I replaced all my bolts in the proper locations just in case I ever decided to put the fairing back on. You don't want all those nuts and bolts bouncing around and getting lost.
From here I followed Vishnu's directions. Pass the harness and relay around to the inside of the left side fork. I would also use this time to removed the two 8mm bolts that hold the horn on. I pulled my horn off for the duration of the installation since I planned on making a small bracket for it at another time.
From there, the mounting bracket for the headlight uses the mounting location where the stock horn bracket was located. It gets spacers on the side of the bike and washers on the outside. When I mounted this, I removed the small bracket up top which "guides" the throttle wire and ignition wires to the control box. In my opinion it's unnecessary with the mounting bracket in it's place.
For the headlight and turn signals I followed Vishnu's directions. They're very self explanatory.
With the headlight mounting bracket in place, the wiring passed through to the center of the forks and the electrical connections for the headlight ready to go, I mounted the headlight. The two holes in the middle of the assembly will match up to two threaded holes on the mounting bracket. These get a bolt per side and a washer on the outside.
I left the top of the shield off as well as the "cowling" off since they are an easy install once everything is buttoned up. The bracket for the speedo bolts to two matching holes at the top of the headlight mounting bracket. There are two threaded mounting locations which you'll be able to see.
Tuck the excess wiring harness behind the headlight housing and run the speedometer cable up to the mounting bracket. You will see the cut out where the 16 pin harness meets up with the speedo assembly. I chose not to plug it in until I was near the end.
The speedo mounting bracket has two holes at each bottom corner. There were no more remaining grommets in my kit so I borrowed two off the old fairing. I shoved them into the holes which makes for a more "complete" mounting solution for the speedo. To secure it I used a bolt and washer on each side. These bolts were no included in the kit which I don't understand. I happen to have a quite extensive selection so I just picked out the proper sizes.
At this point we have the headlight mounting bracket secured to the bike, the headlight on the mounting bracket, the speedometer and bracket mounted and the mount for the cowling, which attatches to the speedometer bracket. I pulled tow two side covers for the headlight off to make the entire process easier, once I figured out how easily they mounted and dismounted. Plug the speedo in if everything is where it needs to be.
This shows some of the mounting brackets once completed.
Last thing to do is mount the top fairing for the headlight. The three self tapping screws which it calls for were not included in my kit. I found the trim screws from a vehicle worked really well. I suggest using something with a bolt head on top since it is much easier to get a 1/4 drive ratchet on them instead of a screwdriver.
For some reason the cowling I recieved didn't come with the correct mounting hardware. You'll see where it mounts to the speedo bracket. At this point it should be very clear. However in my kit, the four bolts that secure the cowling to the bracket were too small. The top portion of the screw fit straight through the hole in the cowling. They were also too long. When fully screwed in with washers on top, the cowling was not even close to being secured.
I went to the hardware store and bought four rubber grommets to fill the holes on the shield. The grommets combined with washers on the outside made for enough of a buffer that the screws didn't bottom out, and it secured the shield very well.
You can make out the washers and a little bit of each grommet in this picture.
For the price of the kit, it's a bit irritating that I had to do this but I'm still very pleased with the results.
Make sure to fasten all screws you may have only made 'hand tight' while you worked., and here are the results.
I didn't see many people who posted a side profile, so here is one for anyone interested.
Overall I am very pleased with the kit. Vishnu provided with outstanding customer service, was prompt in responding to emails and generally just a pleasure to do business with. Shipping took 6 days, which when you factor in that the kit came from Mumbai, India...is absolutely outstanding. I sent him payment on a Wednesday and had my kit the following Tuesday from 3/4 the way around the world.
Hopefully this helps a few people who were apprehensive about this kit. At first it seems a bit daunting but once you get an idea of how things go it's very easy to move step to step with the directions included. I didn't take as many pictures as I would have liked but hopefully the parts I did include will help a fellow rider out.
To start off I compiled all the parts on my kitchen table. Open everything and see how many of which nuts and bolts you have. The nuts and bolts figure themselves out as you progress.
To starts, each plastic side of the headlight gets a nutstrip at the proper location. I had to bend mine in a bit to give them a little tension. The top bolt gets the longer hex cap screw and a spacer pressed into it.
Before you assemble both sides of the headlight, the middle bolt hole gets a rubber grommet and will later get a bolt and washer to mount to the mounting bracket.
So far this should clear up all three mounting points on the headlight and the side overs for it.
This picture shows the right side assembled. You can just make out at the top the nut strip and spacer to it's right. On the bottom you use only the nut strip for the mounting hardware.
I chose to leave my blinkers off for now but I would think either now, or before you install the headlight to the mounting bracket would be a wise time to install them.
With the headlight and side plastics put together, or should I say at least "figured out" I moved onto removing my half fairing.
I was a little unsure of where to start so I kind of just guessed. I hadn't done any work which included removing my front fairing but I got it right.
To begin removing my fairing I took all the allen cap screws out of the exterior and the inside where the gauges sit. I removed the plastics completely to gain access to the front of the works and the wiring harnesses. You'll want to disconnect the harnesses at this point to save yourself some heartache.
The two bolts in the middle of the picture hold a larger bracket onto the forks, which is the main support for the fairing. Remove these two bolts to remove the front fairing. At this point, I left my wiring harnesses connected because I wasn't sure if they should be or not. They WILL need to be disconnected, I'd advise on disconnecting them BEFORE removing the fairing. I was lucky enough to have my roommate around who held the fairing in place while we buggered with the harnesses.
At this point you'll be left with the fairing ready to come off. The wiring harness and speedo need to be removed. I took off the two screws that hold the blinkers on, which will give you some slack in the harness. The two bolts holding the mirrors and several phillips head screws need to come out to removed the wiring harness and speedo.
I replaced all my bolts in the proper locations just in case I ever decided to put the fairing back on. You don't want all those nuts and bolts bouncing around and getting lost.
From here I followed Vishnu's directions. Pass the harness and relay around to the inside of the left side fork. I would also use this time to removed the two 8mm bolts that hold the horn on. I pulled my horn off for the duration of the installation since I planned on making a small bracket for it at another time.
From there, the mounting bracket for the headlight uses the mounting location where the stock horn bracket was located. It gets spacers on the side of the bike and washers on the outside. When I mounted this, I removed the small bracket up top which "guides" the throttle wire and ignition wires to the control box. In my opinion it's unnecessary with the mounting bracket in it's place.
For the headlight and turn signals I followed Vishnu's directions. They're very self explanatory.
With the headlight mounting bracket in place, the wiring passed through to the center of the forks and the electrical connections for the headlight ready to go, I mounted the headlight. The two holes in the middle of the assembly will match up to two threaded holes on the mounting bracket. These get a bolt per side and a washer on the outside.
I left the top of the shield off as well as the "cowling" off since they are an easy install once everything is buttoned up. The bracket for the speedo bolts to two matching holes at the top of the headlight mounting bracket. There are two threaded mounting locations which you'll be able to see.
Tuck the excess wiring harness behind the headlight housing and run the speedometer cable up to the mounting bracket. You will see the cut out where the 16 pin harness meets up with the speedo assembly. I chose not to plug it in until I was near the end.
The speedo mounting bracket has two holes at each bottom corner. There were no more remaining grommets in my kit so I borrowed two off the old fairing. I shoved them into the holes which makes for a more "complete" mounting solution for the speedo. To secure it I used a bolt and washer on each side. These bolts were no included in the kit which I don't understand. I happen to have a quite extensive selection so I just picked out the proper sizes.
At this point we have the headlight mounting bracket secured to the bike, the headlight on the mounting bracket, the speedometer and bracket mounted and the mount for the cowling, which attatches to the speedometer bracket. I pulled tow two side covers for the headlight off to make the entire process easier, once I figured out how easily they mounted and dismounted. Plug the speedo in if everything is where it needs to be.
This shows some of the mounting brackets once completed.
Last thing to do is mount the top fairing for the headlight. The three self tapping screws which it calls for were not included in my kit. I found the trim screws from a vehicle worked really well. I suggest using something with a bolt head on top since it is much easier to get a 1/4 drive ratchet on them instead of a screwdriver.
For some reason the cowling I recieved didn't come with the correct mounting hardware. You'll see where it mounts to the speedo bracket. At this point it should be very clear. However in my kit, the four bolts that secure the cowling to the bracket were too small. The top portion of the screw fit straight through the hole in the cowling. They were also too long. When fully screwed in with washers on top, the cowling was not even close to being secured.
I went to the hardware store and bought four rubber grommets to fill the holes on the shield. The grommets combined with washers on the outside made for enough of a buffer that the screws didn't bottom out, and it secured the shield very well.
You can make out the washers and a little bit of each grommet in this picture.
For the price of the kit, it's a bit irritating that I had to do this but I'm still very pleased with the results.
Make sure to fasten all screws you may have only made 'hand tight' while you worked., and here are the results.
I didn't see many people who posted a side profile, so here is one for anyone interested.
Overall I am very pleased with the kit. Vishnu provided with outstanding customer service, was prompt in responding to emails and generally just a pleasure to do business with. Shipping took 6 days, which when you factor in that the kit came from Mumbai, India...is absolutely outstanding. I sent him payment on a Wednesday and had my kit the following Tuesday from 3/4 the way around the world.
Hopefully this helps a few people who were apprehensive about this kit. At first it seems a bit daunting but once you get an idea of how things go it's very easy to move step to step with the directions included. I didn't take as many pictures as I would have liked but hopefully the parts I did include will help a fellow rider out.
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