RainCity Spring Cleaning Build

[FinalImpact]

PS for future reference there is a plus and minus embossed right on the coil pack at the spades and its backwards in that picture!!! Look close!

Scott,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but FSM snipits violate the posting policy per our Admin... it's mostly been looked past to post and delete but too many are staying for too long.
Thanks in advance

 

[RainCityRider]

PS for future reference there is a plus and minus embossed right on the coil pack at the spades.

Well now I feel smart [emoji28]

 

[RainCityRider]

Scott the paint looks great. Forgot to snap a picture yesterday but it looks factory to me, very happy!

Update on the bike: I got all the covers back on the engine, s1 pan and exhaust are fitted. The exhaust fit perfectly and the o2 sensor is in a great spot luckily. Trying to reorganize the wires running behind the battery tray is taking me quite some time. Hope to get the bike back on the road this weekend.

Need to finish building the r6 forks, sync the TBs, install the forks, install the main fairing, stainless steel brake lines and bleed.

 

[RainCityRider]

Looks right even though its inverted. Fit the damper rod assembly to that aluminum piece and make sure it looks proper. From here its hard to tell with inserted. IIRC the bump stop cup comes off that aluminum piece but best guess is aluminum piece locks rubber piece down once the damping rod is secured. Make sense?

Looking at the r6 manual I think I might have this backwards. Looks like the rubber piece goes on after the metal. I think the metal lip should be inside, between the bump stop and the inner tube.

I'd post a picture if that were allowed.

 

[RainCityRider]

Alright, today's the day to get it back on the road. Any idea about the bump stop?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

No access to pdf from this location. Fit it together both ways. Only one way is going fit properly.
Pretty sure the bumps go up on the stops tho!

 

[RainCityRider]

No access to pdf from this location. Fit it together both ways. Only one way is going fit properly.
Pretty sure the bumps go up on the stops tho!

Any tips on holding the damper rod to torque the bolt on the bottom of the forks?

I was thinking I would take the inner tube back out and check the bump stop but since I can't remove the damper rod bolt I'm going to assemble them as is. Is the only way to torque the damper rod bolt to use some plastic shims inside the inner tube?

 

[FinalImpact]

Two half round wood dowels slid down the stanchion lock it well. I'm sure there is some special tool for it. You could toss the spring in it and see if that helps?

 

[RainCityRider]

She lives!!! Sounds fantastic and is running very well. Small exhaust leak between midpipe and mufflers that I'll need to sort out. The engine seems smooth but hard to tell as the bike is still on the stand with no forks.

Still need to finish the forks and sync the TBs. Dyno appointment on Wednesday!

 

[RainCityRider]

No matter how hard I try I have a very slight exhaust leak between the top of the midpipe and the pipe going back to the mufflers. I have the upper pipe slid as far over the midpipe as I can get it and I've tightened the clamp down hard and still a slight leak. What gives?



Before anyone asks, the clamp is loose and out of the way for picture purposes only.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

How snug did the muffler pipe fit over the mid pipe? Kinda hard to see, but looks like there's some space in where that slot it...

It should fit snug, some wiggling, etc to slide it on.

IMO, I'd remove both pipes, go to a muffler shop, and OPEN UP / WIDEN the inner pipe (checking with the other pipe) until it iS snug..

Between that and the clamp, should help seal it up..


.

 

[RainCityRider]

It fit pretty snug to start but still leaked. I disassembled the exhaust and coated the connections with a health dose of Permatex max. temp copper gasket sealer. I let it sit to cure overnight and hopefully that will do the trick! Luckily my dyno appointment was delayed so I have some more time.

Couple of questions:
I thought I had a taillight bulb out as only one side is lit up. Ordered a new bulb (part 9) but when I pulled back the wires to look into changing it all I see in the back of the housing is a circuit board. I was having trouble getting the whole assembly out of the bike but it looks like I may have an aftermarket tail light with some burnt out leds... not sure.

The bike came with HVMP heavy metal bar ends which are large and since the bike seems smoother hopefully unnecessary. I got my new spider grips on but as they are open on the ends I'm looking for a set of small bar ends or some kind of cover to close up the hole. Any ideas.

All that is left on the bike is to sync the throttle bodies, put on the forks and main fairing, and swap out the brake lines for stainless steel. I'll post pictures of the finished product when I get a chance but the bike is looking great!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Couple of questions:
I thought I had a taillight bulb out as only one side is lit up. Ordered a new bulb (part 9) but when I pulled back the wires to look into changing it all I see in the back of the housing is a circuit board. I was having trouble getting the whole assembly out of the bike but it looks like I may have an aftermarket tail light with some burnt out leds...

The stock set up, at the lens, does NOT have a circuit board. It uses a standard 1157 style socket (brake and running incandescent filament).

Sounds like you have an aftermarket doo dad there...

 

[RainCityRider]

The stock set up, at the lens, does NOT have a circuit board. It uses a standard 1157 style socket (brake and running incandescent filament).

Sounds like you have an aftermarket doo dad there...

Wonderful :thumbup:

 

[RainCityRider]

Alright gents. The bike is back on the road! Wow wow wow what a difference. Those r6 forks are the best money I ever spent! The engine is smooth and seems stronger with the PCFC. The exhaust is definitely loud, but I "think" still within reasonable levels.

When I was putting the new fairing on I found a random wire protruding from the headlight housing. Anyone know what this is or where it should go?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When I was putting the new fairing on I found a random wire protruding from the headlight housing. Anyone know what this is or where it should go?

Yep, someone did their own headlight mod (BD43) and tapped into the low beam bulb wiring harness on the right side.

Looks like they may have tied into the rt directional RUNNING LAMP.

Although you now have two low beams on both sides, when you switch to high beam, the low beam stays ON.
It's NOT good to have BOTH FILAMENTS BURNING AT THE SAME TIME. Besides drawing MORE current, it produces 2 x's as much heat,
bulb doesn't last as long and you can potentially burn up part of that wiring harness...

IMO, get the BD43 harness (which turns off the other filament) so ONLY ONE is on at a time, or yank that wire out.

 

[RainCityRider]

Thanks Scott, looks like I'm going to have to do a little work on the headlight and taillight. You can even see the taillight flickering in the video below.

Update! Got the bike tuned this morning and am very satisfied with the results.

I had the bike tuned by Nels at 2wheeldynoworks. He did a great job all though my experience is limited. When asked about AFR he said that he tries to shoot for 13.2 but that it depends on load.



[video=youtube;VPq8qtz2X5E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPq8qtz2X5E&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share[/video]