RainCity Spring Cleaning Build

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes, part #12. The Cam chain rides against that and they do wear.

As noted above, the chain IS stretched, no other way the cam to crank can be off that much...

And with 40K miles, it's not surprising...

My last '05, KLR 250 (Much longer chain), was stretched at 28,000 miles and needed replacement. I was getting some rattle as the CCT was fully extended and barely keeping it taught. Cam chain is behind the balancer' chain. Much more difficult to replace than the FZ, Stator cover, rotor, RS cover, WP, balancer gears, etc need to be removed..






With the new chain in and the CCT extended(before installation). Prior, the CCT was about flush with the block EXTENDED:




.

 

[FinalImpact]

RainCity, you survive the wind storm last week and maybe get the beast back together?

 

[RainCityRider]

RainCity, you survive the wind storm last week and maybe get the beast back together?

It was pretty crazy wasn't it? I was actually down in Portland over the weekend for the swap meet. The weather was pretty terrible with sideways rain and heavy gusts.

As far as the bike goes I have not had as much time this week as I would have hoped. I'm building a fully autonomous tractor trailer coupling system for my senior project and it is consuming plenty of time. In the meantime I made a list for what's left to do on the bike. I've got a dyno appointment scheduled in a couple weeks so I have a nice deadline.

• Install cam chain, guide, re-install crank cover w/ new gasket
• Install oil pickup seal, oil pickup
• Remove, paint, \& re-install stator cover w/ new gasket
• Flush oil over cams, re-install valve cover w/ new gasket
• Check spark plug caps, re-install plugs
• Install S1 oil pan w/ new gasket
• Polish headers
• Install header \& midpipe, check O2 fitment
• BD43 headlight modification
• Re-install battery, airbox (plug ais), etc
• Assemble R6 forks
• Install power commander
• Flush cooling system and fill
• Fill oil, change filter
• Polish and install fuel tank (tip up)
• Synchronize throttle bodies
• Replace rear brake light bulb
• Assemble front end with r6 forks and ss brake lines
• Replace hyperlight brake lights with new set
• Install rear brake lines, examine caliper
• Bleed front and rear brakes
• Install spider grips
• Adjust handlebar, controls, lubricate clutch cable, adjust free play
• Polish and install lower fairing
• Install main fairing

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So it should be "road ready" by spring 2018?

 

[RainCityRider]

So it should be "road ready" by spring 2018?

Hopefully! Blah

All kidding aside it's a bigger list than I originally intended.

I'm a bit concerned about assembling my R6 forks. I purchased them completely disassembled and have all new bushings, orings, seals, etc... I have the R6 shop manual pages that detail the assembly but are there any special things I need to consider. I've done some searching on here but maybe I missed the right thread.

 

[FinalImpact]

You better take some vacation time!!!

Crazy windstorm raised hell here over 240,000 without power! Our company lost power at 730 am and was out for 40 hours. Ended up buying a generator to keep two different Laser systems up to temperature!

Let me know if you head towards pdx again and good luck on the project!

PS a bushing driver and seal driver as well as a couple half round wooden dowels. When you install the stanchion and cartridge, you wedge the 1/2 slice wood dowels in the stanchion to keep it from spinning. Screwdriver type prybars and lots of tape will work too. Be nice to the cartridge top as it has delicate stamped spring on the top.
Id use nothing more than 7.5wt in them. Yamaha 5wt is fine!

 

[RainCityRider]

I bought a seal driver for the job. Didn't think of shimming to hold it but will have to give it a try. I bought 5wt to put in.

You guys think I get vacation time, haha. Not so lucky.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I bought a seal driver for the job. Didn't think of shimming to hold it but will have to give it a try. I bought 5wt to put in.

You guys think I get vacation time, haha. Not so lucky.

I don't get any vacation time...

 

[FinalImpact]

Bonus picture of all the parts laid out. No idea about what order to go about this. Three biggest things are valves, r6 forks, and exhaust.

View attachment 67851

On a side note, anyone have a carbtune I could borrow with shipping paid both ways? Do the r6 forks take a 43mm fork seal driver like the stock forks?

The main thing is to not let the cartridge spin in this cup at the forks bottom. Cups look to be below the spacers in pic above. And as others have noted, be sure to drive the outer bushing in flush! You'll see the outer tube has landing for it. Peak at it before assembly begins...

 

[RainCityRider]

Put the new chain in and everything lined up perfect! Took me several tries to get the valve cover on with the new gasket but a dab of gasket sealer did the trick to hold it on. Started on the fork assembly but wanted to make sure I have the oil seal "cups" oriented correctly with the small rubber gasket. I'll post a picture later.

Also painted the stator cover. The directions ask the paint to be cured at 200F in the oven but I don't want to put it in our kitchen oven, any alternatives to cure the paint?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Glad to hear about the chain!

What type / brand paint that needs 200 degree's? It's probably already cured. And if it hasn't, I'd think most of the nasty fumes are gone.

That engine case will get to 200 degrees on the first ride.

 

[RainCityRider]

It's VHT paint engine paint. Curing it on the bike may be the best solution.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

How close is the color to stock? I have two side covers, (sanded slight scruffs out of them) that need re-painting.

I'd like to sell at least one...

 

[RainCityRider]

I found the color here in a thread. (VHT SP405) IIRC. The color looked pretty close upon first inspection. I'll post a picture when I get a chance.

Final, can you give me the lowdown on your fused connection. I ordered the Bussmann you recommended. Just plug it in place and wire up the power to the FC?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

Correct! I opted to add dielectric grease to the exposed section as the door no longer keeps the chunks out....
Get some shrink tubing and bare butt connectors and you're set.

Something to keep in mind should you **EVER HAVE** a no start situation is that most all of the fuel controller inputs are passthrough except the fuel injectors.
That said, simply unplug FC injector and connect it back stock so injectors are direct to ECU. As long as those other inputs are not compromised (shorted ect) you should ne good to go!
I've never had issues but I have resolved others issues by bypassing the PC FC's that had a hiccup.

 

[RainCityRider]

Is this the way the cup should be oriented?

 

[FinalImpact]

Looks right even though its inverted. Fit the damper rod assembly to that aluminum piece and make sure it looks proper. From here its hard to tell with inserted. IIRC the bump stop cup comes off that aluminum piece but best guess is aluminum piece locks rubber piece down once the damping rod is secured. Make sense?

 

[RainCityRider]

Are coils bidirectional? I didn't take a picture of how the wires connect to the port side coil (cylinders 2-3).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Per the manual, the red line (a red for each coil) goes on the same side.

Double click to enlarge

 

[RainCityRider]

Awesome, thanks Townsend!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk