Quesion re paint: How to get a high gloss finish

[elus1ve]

I bought a used belly pan off someone who had a 2009 Fz and unfortunately I didn't know the blue didn't match. Bummer!

So I got a can of the exact blue from colorrite and went off to work. Sanded the bellypan with 180 sand paper if I remember correctly, cleaned it and started painting. I did a good 5-6 layers of blue followed up by 4-5 layers of automotive transparent finish. The result looks pretty good and looks even better on the bike.

However I've noticed that the finish looks more matt than glossy. It's not very visible from the picture I took but it's matt compared to the other parts. I was wondering why it didn't come out glossy. Was it the finish? I read in one of Boneman's excellent guide that sanding in between painting (with finer sand paper) is recommended but I just couldn't get myself to sand the paint. Was the sanding in between required for a glossy finish?

 

[arsity]

I dont know much about spray painting and finishing... but maybe you could try to wax/buff/polish it to give a more glossy look. :don'tknow:

 

[Nelly]

I dont know much about spray painting and finishing... but maybe you could try to wax/buff/polish it to give a more glossy look. :don'tknow:

Personally I wouldn't wax a new paint job, the wax will bond to the paint and leave a layer of white streaks.

I bought a used belly pan off someone who had a 2009 Fz and unfortunately I didn't know the blue didn't match. Bummer!

So I got a can of the exact blue from colorrite and went off to work. Sanded the bellypan with 180 sand paper if I remember correctly, cleaned it and started painting. I did a good 5-6 layers of blue followed up by 4-5 layers of automotive transparent finish. The result looks pretty good and looks even better on the bike.

However I've noticed that the finish looks more matt than glossy. It's not very visible from the picture I took but it's matt compared to the other parts. I was wondering why it didn't come out glossy. Was it the finish? I read in one of Boneman's excellent guide that sanding in between painting (with finer sand paper) is recommended but I just couldn't get myself to sand the paint. Was the sanding in between required for a glossy finish?

You need to sand between dry coats. Once your happy you neeed to apply clearcoat to get the gloss.

Neil:thumbup:

 

[arsity]

Personally I wouldn't wax a new paint job

Me neither. Lol. I just meant for him to buff/polish the belly pan now, in hopes to make it more glossy. I would hate to have to start over.. (i'm impatient)

 

[Nelly]

Me neither. Lol. I just meant for him to buff/polish the belly pan now, in hopes to make it more glossy. I would hate to have to start over.. (i'm impatient)

I've made the same mistake before and ended back at square one, its a right PITA to remove your new paint to get rid of the wax.

Cheers
Neil

 

[elus1ve]

Yeah thought about waxing it but after reading your posts I will restrain. Really don't want to be starting over. Will leave it like that for now since I don't know how to get the high gloss.

 

[ped]

Did you clearcoat it? If so did you use gloss or matte? Buff it with medium cut rubbing compound, then light cut, then polishing compound.

 

[elus1ve]

Yes I did multiple layers of high gloss clearcoat. Will try your suggestion in a week or so, when the paint has harden completely.

Did you clearcoat it? If so did you use gloss or matte? Buff it with medium cut rubbing compound, then light cut, then polishing compound.

 

[red_rock_beetle]

wet sand with 1000 grit, then wet sand with 2000 grit, then clay bar. should be smooth as glass

 

[FinalImpact]

Any chance the top coat is not gloss?
Also high temp paint is flat so it can expand and contract with heat. The "shell" like structure of "gloss" paint cracks when heated thus its not common place to see gloss high temp paint.

The exception is ceramic based gloss paints. I used this on aluminum intake manifolds and other parts for a nice shine that won't oxidize in the elements. Also used it on my bars and rear sets on the bike.

Also, lacquer over enamel of any kind can bite into the enamel making it flat loosing the luster. THIS IS WAY WORSE if the color coat has not fully cured before the top coat is apllied. However, you can spray enamel over cured lacquer. This combo is very durable.

 

[skooter65]

I have had the same issue in the past with off-the-shelf clearcoat systems. A few quick comments:

1: It sounds like you may have done a few too many coats of clear. Anything over three (3) coats, unless done very very thin, will slow the cure time and create a "foggy" look. I would be willing to bet that you could go out there right now and make an impression in the clearcoat with your thumbnail.

2: As others have mentioned; you may have used an incompatible clearcoat with the Colorrite basecoat. Colorrite paints are a Urethane Style. Any reason that you did not just use the Colorrite clear as well? As I had mentioned in a previous post, the Colorrite clear is one of the best Aerosol clearcoats that I have used; Went on smooth and hardened within a day.

3: If the clear has cured properly, you may just need to do a wet-sand and polish. I have attached a few photos of and FZ1 fairing that I did a few months ago (Using Colorrite Aerosol Base and Colorrite Aerosol Clear). The first photo shows the orange-peel/Hazy finish prior to wet-sanding and polishing. The second shows the finished product.

Hopefully this can provide some help!

Scott


Before Sand and Polish:


After Sand and Polish:

 

[elus1ve]

You are right, I did do more than 3 layers of clear coat cause I thought it would be better to give it more protection given that it will get its share of projectiles from the front tire. I must have done 5 layers with an extra on the front end.

And I also didn't use Colorrite's clear cause I had this guy sitting around. It has done a decent job on other bits.
View attachment 48678

I took it off to have a close look today and it has cured well. It looks exactly like your picture of the R1 fairing before you wet sanded and polished it. I will have to do the same. I got some 2000grit sand paper for this job.

Thanks for the input, it is helpful.

 

[FinalImpact]

I will have to do the same. I got some 2000grit sand paper for this job.

Thanks for the input, it is helpful.

Suggest you use soapy water and wet/dry paper. When you feel the balls do the grit thing under the paper dip, shake and wipe the surface before sanding more as that grit feeling will scratch the crud outta soft paint.

With 5 layers, sand evenly, wipe it dry and when all the orange peel is gone, now you can buff it it with compound and you should be good to go!