Pressure washed my FZ6 = rough idle

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
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Often it is an added ingredient that makes problems come to life. . .
I was pretty sure you'd find the problem there. Going forward I'm going to caution others - you can't look at plug and say its OK. Yes there can be some obvious defects that make a plug bad like:
* broken upper insulator
* missing or smashed ground electrodes
* gaps filled with carbon
* broken lower insulator

What you can't see and measure is shorted insulators as most plugs have a built in resistor to suppress electrical noise interference. And you can't tell its wet inside or shorted so its best to replace a plug thats misfired for sustained period of time as it builds up deposits inside when it doesn't fire. (Obviously MUCH worse in 2 strokes)

Why its worse at low RPM:
At low RPM the time interval between ignition discharge is slower. Because its slower, the coils have more dwell time (charge time if you will) and saturate delivering more energy when the secondary core collapses producing the discharge arc. In essence the firing rate is reduced but the time allowed to fill the bucket full of water went up! The result is more energy is available at low RPM. SO - At idle you can easily have arc-over misfires because the energy is Greater and its looking for the shortest least resistance path to ground! And that may be through the plugs body, the cap, the coil wire to ground, or even the ignition coil itself as the housing material breaks down and leaks the high voltage to ground.

Air is good insulator. Dust, dirt, contaminated grease, oxidation, salt, water, all compromise the isolation barrier making arc-over possible. So, Keep the electrical system clean and seated!

blah blah blah - I wrote a book! Hopefully it helps someone understand WHY things happen this way.
 

FIZZER6

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^ Thanks for the response, I learned something new. This is why my bike was only missing at <3,000 rpms! Above that it was able to make the arc over! :thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

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^ Thanks for the response, I learned something new. This is why my bike was only missing at <3,000 rpms! Above that it was able to make the arc over! :thumbup:

More info???
Something that's misleading is testing spark plug in the open air. It's OK, and it helps us see the coil and ignition system have the potential to deliver a spark but under the burden of compression stroke the cylinder pressure and fuel mixture actually increase the demand on the ignition system to deliver sufficient energy to jump the plugs gap.

Meaning; just because a plug fires in the open air during visual testing, it doesn't mean it will fire under the load of compression and as cylinder pressures go higher, like for example lugging the engine in a high gear at low RPM going up a hill, well they misfire as the conditions in the combustion chamber make jumping the gap at the plug harder than leaking through a defective wire!

Another reason why they run OK under light loads/higher RPM than at idle or when taking off (the cylinder pressure is lower).

Glad you got it Healed! :thumbup:
 

Clovis

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Just for what it's worth, I use a pressure washer all the time. A little 1500 PSI electric one.

After a long ride:

Step 1: Spray down with a soap and water solution (I use just a hand pump sprayer, the kind that you pump like 20 times and it holds pressure).

Step 2: Pressure wash all of the bugs off the front and clean the radiator

Step 3: Clean the chain

Step 4: Towel dry

Step 5: Re-lube the chain and park

I've done this for years and had zero problems.
 

FIZZER6

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Just for what it's worth, I use a pressure washer all the time. A little 1500 PSI electric one.

After a long ride:

Step 1: Spray down with a soap and water solution (I use just a hand pump sprayer, the kind that you pump like 20 times and it holds pressure).

Step 2: Pressure wash all of the bugs off the front and clean the radiator

Step 3: Clean the chain

Step 4: Towel dry

Step 5: Re-lube the chain and park

I've done this for years and had zero problems.

I'm sure if you are careful it can be fine. I had to spray the engine because it was covered in corrosive saltwater spray. I made sure I was 3' from the engine when spraying it with the pressure washer to avoid forcing high pressure water into components but apparently the spark plug covers are breached by even low pressure water stream.
 

deeptekkie

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Sorry about your trouble man. I not only do NOT pressure wash my bike, I never wash my bike! I gently wipe it down with Armor All Wipes and then wipe it dry with a soft cloth. There are just too may places that pressurized water (or soap) gets into that doesn't occur when you ride in the rain.
"My main man" at my local Yamaha dealership said, "Never, never, never, never pressure wash a bike.....NEVER!" He said to wipe it down with a special cleaner, (that they sell and use on every bike that comes in : ), but I have always used Armor All since it works so well at cleaning bugs off my faceshields and helmets.
I do understand your desperate attempt to remove the salt stuff though. Again, sorry. Safe riding!
 
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