Park/running lights won't turn off

[OZXJR]

Well, I am in the process of moving house and had to move the bike to get some furniture in.
I moved it about 5 mtrs without turning it on, only unlocked the steering. 5 mins later I noticed the park lights where on, key was not in the ignition,dash lights where off, indicators would work and hazards would work , also volt meter was on.
Bike would start and run normally but when I turn it off Parker's stay on.
I removed the park light fuse, they stayed on !
Disconnected the battery and they went out, reconnected the battery and all was as normal.
Anyone got any ideas ?

 

[FinalImpact]

Well, I am in the process of moving house and had to move the bike to get some furniture in.
I moved it about 5 mtrs without turning it on, only unlocked the steering. 5 mins later I noticed the park lights where on, key was not in the ignition,dash lights where off, indicators would work and hazards would work , also volt meter was on.
Bike would start and run normally but when I turn it off Parker's stay on.
I removed the park light fuse, they stayed on !
Disconnected the battery and they went out, reconnected the battery and all was as normal.
Anyone got any ideas ?

Im sure if you saw the main headlamps ON you would have mentioned that so I'll assume they were off.
I don't have a schematic in front of me but it sounds like a relay stuck on. I'll look in and post back which one is suspect....
Moving the bike 5 meters sounds like a breeze compared to moving a house!

Any mods to the lighting? Its rare for low current relays to fuse on. I'll be back...

 

[FinalImpact]

.. .. ..
I don't have a schematic in front of me but it sounds like a relay stuck on.
....

SCRATCH THAT ^^^^^^

On our bikes (not the underworld), its direct to the ignition switch. So if they are the same, it looks like a branch internal to the ignition switch did not turn off.

Should it do it again, exercise the ignition switch on and off several times. Also it would be good to know if when the battery is connected again and it repeats this - does the horn work?

 

[OZXJR]

SCRATCH THAT ^^^^^^

On our bikes (not the underworld), its direct to the ignition switch. So if they are the same, it looks like a branch internal to the ignition switch did not turn off.

Should it do it again, exercise the ignition switch on and off several times. Also it would be good to know if when the battery is connected again and it repeats this - does the horn work?

I turned the ignition on and off several times and no change. The horn did not work, just the parkers, indicators and hazards.

Thanks for your help on this, has me stumped

 

[FinalImpact]

Looks like its going to take some investigation - do you own a 12v test lamp or a hand held DMM??

Honestly it doesn't all add up as is. Does yours have an alarm what is your accessory connected to? A component may have dies allowing energy to flow when it should not.

Under the right side pod is the BACKUP fuse. It will kill the clock. I'd suggest you pull it and see if it changes anything.

So, neither brake switch worked (for brake light)?? And how long ago since any modifications to the bike?

 

[OZXJR]

First thing I did was pull the fuses, no change.
I do have an alarm connected to the EFI fuse and the brake lights did not function either.
Recent electrical mods are volt meter to right hand front parker, gear indicator with plug and play loom and led strips in reflectors in top box wired to brake light.
No test equipment unfortunately

 

[FinalImpact]

First thing I did was pull the fuses, no change.
I do have an alarm connected to the EFI fuse and the brake lights did not function either.
Recent electrical mods are volt meter to right hand front parker, gear indicator with plug and play loom and led strips in reflectors in top box wired to brake light.
No test equipment unfortunately

You need a test tool of some kind. A cheapo meter is $15 in the states. It will get you by. As would an automotive 12v test lamp. In a pinch, any small auto lamp with wires affixed to it could do. Alligator clips and pointy tips are very helpful tho! When i say small lamp, something that doesn't get hot (Think of trailer running lamp with leads) and more importantly it can't be so scary that we cause more damage using it because of its exposed wires shorting to something....
When you have time - borrow or buy one or the other (both is good option too). Now that it fixed itself, sounds like a load test is a best bet to see how much current it draws with everything off. So if you feel good about sketching how these add-on items are connected, that wouldn't hurt.

Oh - Cliff.... ...... ......
opcorn: [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION] opcorn:

 

[OZXJR]

Thanks mate, long weekend here so will have time to get a tester :thumbup:

 

[Motogiro]

Sound tricky...Could be voltage being supplied to the running light circuit via a short from a wire that always has voltage in the harness. I'm on a road trip right now so it will take a bit before I can read the schematics but I believe the turn signal/running light circuit are on a common feed. So supply voltage to the flasher circuit or the running light circuit will energize the other.
If your alarm system flashes the running or directional light when armed or set it could be the source. Is there a possibility
There is low voltage at the battery? This may be where the mysterious voltage is energizing that circuit through the alarm.

Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2 :mikebike:

 

[OZXJR]

New battery mate and voltage is good :thumbup:

 

[ShoopCE]

Thanks mate, long weekend here so will have time to get a tester :thumbup:

Thus begins the short slippery road to becoming a geek. Next thing you know, you'll be wearing a pocket protector.

Good luck finding the fault!

 

[OZXJR]

Pocket protectors can be quite fashionable if worn correctly with the right outfit Blah

 

[bd43]

First thing I did was pull the fuses, no change.
I do have an alarm connected to the EFI fuse and the brake lights did not function either.
Recent electrical mods are volt meter to right hand front parker, gear indicator with plug and play loom and led strips in reflectors in top box wired to brake light.
No test equipment unfortunately

Hey Mick;

When you said pull fuse, I assume you meant Tail fuse because that supplies power to the park lights, tail light and license plate light. Where all these on when the bike was off?

If that is the case, and that fuse did not solve your problem, either the volt meter or LED strips is not wired properly. I think the power is supplied through one of those two feeding backwards into the tail light/park light circuit. Either disconnect one leg on each to see if the problem goes away and make sure your polarities are correct on both so the one side (+) goes to your hot side of the front parker (blue/red), LED strip (+) goes to the hot side of your brake light (yellow) and the other sides of both those devices is going to a true ground (black at both those connectors).

Can you confirm? Good luck mate!:thumbup: