Is this going to be a problem...?

[Squiz]

A simple drop in the garage would not normally require the scrapping of the plastic fairing pieces so that is a flag for me. I think the damage occured prior to it being converted due to road damage. Do you know who the previous owner is, can you talk to him and try to find out what really happened?

Yeah I know the previous owner and I'll reach out today. I'm also planning to deep dive this issue tonight and explore any further damage around the TB's prior to buying this e-bay part or taking a different direction.

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

[FinalImpact]

OP can you post some pictures of all you see?

Thanks!

 

[Squiz]

OP can you post some pictures of all you see?

Thanks!

Sure thing! I'll post some pics over the weekend after I investigate tonight.

 

[Squiz]

More updates for everyone. I'll get to the pics:

I picked away at the silicone and sure enough, found a hole:


You can see here, the cylindar that mounts to the casting broke.


More silicone on the outside of the tubes to reconnect the broken mount.


Here is the top view:


Everything else looks intact. I visually inspected the engine bolts all around the TB. I feel confident that to solve the problem, I need to replace the top mount casting. Once I remove the old, I can get further into the engine to determine any further issues. wow!

 

[FinalImpact]

Thats pretty sad someone sold you bike like that. . .

Hang in there, did you bid on the fleebay parts?

 

[Squiz]

Thats pretty sad someone sold you bike like that. . .

Hang in there, did you bid on the fleebay parts?

Tell me about it. I spoke to the previous owner today via e-mail, he had no idea about it. He only owned the bike for a short period and was either playing dumb or truly had no idea.

It's in my hands now...bring on the e-bay.

FinalImpact...where in OR?

 

[wolfe1down]

I would have hoped that any licensed mechanic would have a stronger work ethic than this... Probably was the original owner or other DIY'er that performed this repair (how did it get damaged to beging with.... Unfortunately, it's become your issue now Hopefully you can get another casing and won't find anything else damaged. Yours is another example of having to check (then recheck) used vehicle prior to purchasing...

Good luck!

 

[Squiz]

I would have hoped that any licensed mechanic would have a stronger work ethic than this... Probably was the original owner or other DIY'er that performed this repair (how did it get damaged to beging with.... Unfortunately, it's become your issue now Hopefully you can get another casing and won't find anything else damaged. Yours is another example of having to check (then recheck) used vehicle prior to purchasing...

Good luck!

My pre-purchase inspection consisted mainly of an electrical review after some issues I had previously with an R6. Also considering the bike was converted naked and I was inspecting for any shady electrical. Non found. I actually spoke with the electrical engineer who performed the work.

I also removed all the rear fairings and lefted the tank to inspect the underside, but just one step further in removing the air box...this would have been exposed.

I bought the e-bay casting $83 with shipping. That's not too bad. So, here is the big quetion...do I DIY this or have a shop perform the install?

 

[FinalImpact]

My pre-purchase inspection consisted mainly of an electrical review after some issues I had previously with an R6. Also considering the bike was converted naked and I was inspecting for any shady electrical. Non found. I actually spoke with the electrical engineer who performed the work.

I also removed all the rear fairings and lefted the tank to inspect the underside, but just one step further in removing the air box...this would have been exposed.

I bought the e-bay casting $83 with shipping. That's not too bad. So, here is the big quetion...do I DIY this or have a shop perform the install?

PM sent:
I'm not too far away and will give you a hand!

 

[FinalImpact]

Apparently because I'm bored and have more time to waste than Squiz does, I'll state that a Running FZ is a Happy FZ! Squiz's Naked FZ was healed last night and fired right up!
fleebay to the rescue!!! Job was easy except for the 16" 3mm allen wrench needed to tighten the carb bodies to the intake manifold! Lets say, we were creative! It idles nice, 2 bro pipes sound good and Naked is growing on me. . .

I'll shut up now and let Squiz tell the story!

 

[FinalImpact]

It might be worth while to get a baseline on the replacement parts and perform the TPS diagnostics. Bike runs great so I'm not to worried about it, but I'm big on learning all you can about these.

Because the whole TB, TPS, and idle control hardware was dropped on here, it wouldn't hurt to gather some info about the used TPS.



Originally Posted by Megatron on sportbikes.net
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...iencing-poor-idle-mileage-stalls.html#post227

• To check the TPS values, you have to press and hold SELECT + RESET, then turn the key and keep them pressed for 8 more seconds.
  
• It'll appear dIAg on the display, you can release them now. Afterwards use select until you see a d01 (Diagnostic Mode for the TPS)
  
• Then it should read between 15 and 17 if the throttle is closed,
• With the throttle fully open, it should read between 97 and 100.
  
• If the values are over or below those I mentioned, the TPS should be replaced.
  
• To leave the dIAG mode, simply turn the key counter clockwise.

For more discussion on testing TPS, see this post:
http://forums.sportbikes.net/forums/...&postcount=247

 

[MotoMartin]

[*] If the values are over or below those I mentioned, the TPS should be replaced.

I think you mean adjusted not replaced.
The TPS is adjustable in terms of the degree of throttle opening (the numbers that you have listed)- see page 7-7 of the shop manual.
It should be replaced per the electrical resistance specifications on page 8-128

 

[FinalImpact]

I think you mean adjusted not replaced.
The TPS is adjustable in terms of the degree of throttle opening (the numbers that you have listed)- see page 7-7 of the shop manual.
It should be replaced per the electrical resistance specifications on page 8-128

That was a copy/paste from the Sticky (Follow link above). Later it leads to service bulletin on replacement for those having faulty TPS (pre 06 IIRC).

Point Taken. . . .

 

[Squiz]

Apparently because I'm bored and have more time to waste than Squiz does, I'll state that a Running FZ is a Happy FZ! Squiz's Naked FZ was healed last night and fired right up!
fleebay to the rescue!!! Job was easy except for the 16" 3mm allen wrench needed to tighten the carb bodies to the intake manifold! Lets say, we were creative! It idles nice, 2 bro pipes sound good and Naked is growing on me. . .

I'll shut up now and let Squiz tell the story!

IT’S ALIVE!!!!! :BLAA:

A huge thanks to FinalImpact for taking time out of your evening and performing the heart transplant. As previously stated, she is running great and I couldn’t be happier with the outcome. I went for a ride on Sunday and compared the feeling to what I previously experienced with the bad TB and honestly couldn’t tell a difference. I’ll post pics in the near future, I’ve been too busy to upload the photos.

Thanks again! :thumbup:

 

[Squiz]

As it sits today with the new to me throttle body, installed and everything! POW!


The tool that made it all happen, a 3mm allen wrench, broken at the joint and jimmy-rigged into a 4mm socket with arm extension. Whew!


This was a mighty fine install!

 

[phranK2k11]

The tool that made it all happen, a 3mm allen wrench, broken at the joint and jimmy-rigged into a 4mm socket with arm extension. Whew!

This was a mighty fine install!

The best tools are all home made! :rockon:

I welded two 3/4 nuts to a 3/4 bolt about 1 1/2" long to use to remove the front axle. Then a 3/4 socket on a click type torque wrench to tighten to spec.

Free vs. $25 tool.....no brainer there

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Made about the same tool by welding an allan key (angle cut off) to the end of a non used torx head screwdriver. That was after doing up exactly what you came up with...

I use it more on small engines(weedeaters, blowers, etc) nowadays...

+1 on the 3/4" nut for the front axle however I used a 3/4 SS bolt, then a flat washer, then welding a SS nut to the bolt with the washer inbetween... The washer helps hold it square in the axle...

 

[FinalImpact]

As it sits today with the new to me throttle body, installed and everything! POW!


The tool that made it all happen, a 3mm allen wrench, broken at the joint and jimmy-rigged into a 4mm socket with arm extension. Whew!


This was a mighty fine install!

Ya its fun to meet strangers from the Internet, go to their house and have them hold tools while swing a hammer to break those tools and tell them its ok, we're going to fix it your bike now!" haha

The whole thing went very well! FYI To pull the carbs easily you need 16" extension choking it down to 3mm hex head. The tin foil adapter from 3mm to 4mm was to get the bolts snug. Surprisingly it could take a good deal of torque!

It was great Squiz promised beers for everyone who helped in the thread! hahaha j/k

From this, we'll set date for good ride if nothing else. . .

 

[Squiz]

Ya its fun to meet strangers from the Internet, go to their house and have them hold tools while swing a hammer to break those tools and tell them its ok, we're going to fix it your bike now!" haha

The whole thing went very well! FYI To pull the carbs easily you need 16" extension choking it down to 3mm hex head. The tin foil adapter from 3mm to 4mm was to get the bolts snug. Surprisingly it could take a good deal of torque!

It was great Squiz promised beers for everyone who helped in the thread! hahaha j/k

From this, we'll set date for good ride if nothing else. . .

Hey now! :spank:

Beers indeed, just come to Beaverton, Or and I'll be happy to share some homebrew! :thumbup:

Randy - did you pick an employee store day? Also, let's keep in touch and get our ride on. Thanks again, you were a huge help.