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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Post a WTB here on the forum and check the for sale section. Try to stick with an 04-06 engine, the oil pan is different, not sure about anything else.

As to where it broke off, that transmission bearing is still being "supported" just fine.
Do you still have the broken off part?


Even if you don't have the piece, I'd trailer the bike to a GOOD machine /aluminum welding shop.

With the broken piece, they should be able to TIG weld it back in place W/O an engine tear down / removal.

If the guys good, he can make a "plug" to fit in that orifice and put a fine TIG weld around the edges.
That internal bearing should be ok if the welder is cognizant of it (doesn't put way too much heat there-aluminum dissipates heat quickly ).

 

[twobob1]

Ah I feel for you dude must be heartbreaking. I use D.I.D chain and JT sprockets. Chain came with a rivet link, they are not cheap chains but when its your life on the line I always pay the extra. The main thing is your ok, sounds like it could have been much worse. Just browsing eBay theres quite a few 06 engines that claim to be runners around the 3-600 pound mark (about a quarter of the cost of what the bikes worth) But the time it takes to fit them and the gamble on weather it will run ok is big. Im sure someone with more knowledge on here could give there opinion on eBay used engines. Good luck hope you can sort it.

Just read townsends post, sounds promising. I would definitely get different professional welders opinions before you go the new engine route, maybe phone around different places and ask if you can send a pic of the damage for them to say if they might be able to repair it or not with or without an engine strip down.

I would start by searching google for a welders forum of some sort, join it and post the pics there to see what the specialist guys think. They might say its an easy repair and you can get an idea and tips. Even though I guess its down to the skill of the welder on the day and weather you have the fragment that came off. Let us know how you get on would love to see your bike repaired.

 

[Bluesfan83]

Ah I feel for you dude must be heartbreaking. I use D.I.D chain and JT sprockets. Chain came with a rivet link, they are not cheap chains but when its your life on the line I always pay the extra. The main thing is your ok, sounds like it could have been much worse. Just browsing eBay theres quite a few 06 engines that claim to be runners around the 3-600 pound mark (about a quarter of the cost of what the bikes worth) But the time it takes to fit them and the gamble on weather it will run ok is big. Im sure someone with more knowledge on here could give there opinion on eBay used engines. Good luck hope you can sort it.

Just read townsends post, sounds promising. I would definitely get different professional welders opinions before you go the new engine route, maybe phone around different places and ask if you can send a pic of the damage for them to say if they might be able to repair it or not with or without an engine strip down.

I would start by searching google for a welders forum of some sort, join it and post the pics there to see what the specialist guys think. They might say its an easy repair and you can get an idea and tips. Even though I guess its down to the skill of the welder on the day and weather you have the fragment that came off. Let us know how you get on would love to see your bike repaired.

I found an auction site. They have some slight crashed bikes for the same price as an eBay motor if not cheaper. That way everything will be there

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

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I would start by searching google for a welders forum of some sort, join it and post the pics there to see what the specialist guys think. They might say its an easy repair and you can get an idea and tips. Even though I guess its down to the skill of the welder on the day and weather you have the fragment that came off. Let us know how you get on would love to see your bike repaired.

Just an FYI, Marine propeller welders weld the edges and build up prop blades.

On a Yamaha OB forum I frequent, the guys "mid-section" literally corroded out just under the powerhead (engine-225HP) at the gasket surface. He got a guy to weld it back up for $80.00. Owner did all the filing, etc to get it flat again. Saved a ton of $

As for just buying the used bike, great idea, even better IF YOU CAN HEAR THE ENGINE RUN..

 

[FinalImpact]

JM2C but I doubt you'll find any good sane welder to do that in place unless they make a cup and fit it over the damaged area. The weld process isn't 100% clean and one little chunk of debris could take out that bearing.
Fitting something over the hole may eliminate that risk and make it possible.

 

[bigborer]

JM2C but I doubt you'll find any good sane welder to do that in place unless they make a cup and fit it over the damaged area. The weld process isn't 100% clean and one little chunk of debris could take out that bearing.
Fitting something over the hole may eliminate that risk and make it possible.

Why not? Don't know much about welding but I've seen alloy car rims and oil pans with missing chunks larger than this being repaired on weld filler alone. They just go row over row until the gap is filled. Then they use an air powered dremel to smooth it all down and if done right, it's hard to tell the weld filler from the actual material.

 

[FinalImpact]

Why not? Don't know much about welding but I've seen alloy car rims and oil pans with missing chunks larger than this being repaired on weld filler alone. They just go row over row until the gap is filled. Then they use an air powered dremel to smooth it all down and if done right, it's hard to tell the weld filler from the actual material.

If it were a hole in the pan and debris could make a B-line to the exit, no problem.
But this has an exposed bearing right there. I Personally TIG'd a hole closed on my own oil pan and for proper penetration that closes all pores so it doesn't leak, it needs heat. Heat makes some level of splatter. Thats not to say the bearing won't live with some debris ran through it but I as a welder would not sign up for that. Well other than I stopped your leak.

Opinions will vary. Get it looked at and see what they say. It doesn't have to be pretty. Just no leaks!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed with most of the above..

That bearing is supported in that area (and the bike would run fine, just leak like a sieve).

As we haven't heard from the OP if he has the original piece (should, it was bolted to the cover), running a fine TIG weld around the outside edge of that piece and block.

Normally, you'd "V" out in-between the two pieces before welding. With that bearing right there, I'd clean ONLY where the weld (outer most edge) would be and leave the weld showing (not grinding it smooth and loosing strength).

We're really just sealing up a leaking hole that is NOT supporting anything.

A whole lot cheaper and easier than a new engine / engine swaps, etc..

 

[twobob1]

I like this idea and if it was me id email pics and questions to shop after shop until I found somewhere who was competent and said they could do it no problems. Curious as to what he would do if he hasn't got the broken piece?

 

[bigborer]

If it were a hole in the pan and debris could make a B-line to the exit, no problem.
But this has an exposed bearing right there. I Personally TIG'd a hole closed on my own oil pan and for proper penetration that closes all pores so it doesn't leak, it needs heat. Heat makes some level of splatter. Thats not to say the bearing won't live with some debris ran through it but I as a welder would not sign up for that. Well other than I stopped your leak.

Opinions will vary. Get it looked at and see what they say. It doesn't have to be pretty. Just no leaks!

I did mention disassembling and removing the bearing on the previous page- it'd be a true wonder if someone managed to cover the hole with weld filer while the bearing was in place, and still end up with a working bearing.

However... just thought of another way- what if he removed the bearing side cover (shouldn't be too hard) so that it won't melt, and then brazed something as I drew on the picture? As said above, there's no need for structural resistance, only for something to cover so that the oil won't leak.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That broken area IS the main block. It's NOT a cover easily removed / replaced.

Even if that part is lost, a piece of aluminum, a Dremel, FILE and ALOT of time, you could make a piece to fit that open area.

If you split the cases, accessed the damage and welded it, you'd just have to simply Dremel away any excess aluminum should it even get in there... Welding on the outside alone, no crap should get in the engine. Excess heat to that adjacent bearing would be the biggest thing to watch for..


I did exactly that with a Mercury outboard engine many years ago. The cooling passage in the head, salt rotted thru to the combustion chamber. I trimmed down a piece of aluminum (after cleaning out all the corrosion) and had a welder weld it in (approx. 1" across total at it's widest point).

It just had to seal the chamber from leaking as well as water entering. Engine ran great after that. Had to buy a hull to bolt it to and sold it...

 

[Bluesfan83]

I have the piece still and after reading the comments, talking with a few people I'm going to try and get it welded first and then go from there.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Disconnect the battery and ECU BEFORE they weld it.

You don't want to "cook" any electrics by accident..

 

[Bluesfan83]

Should i take out the internals?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Should i take out the internals?

That, IS A MAJOR ENGINE TEAR DOWN, removal of the gear case, etc. You'd be better off with that used case.

As posted, that close bearing IS supported.

Check with your welder if he can weld that piece in in place while assembled. Basically, cleaning paint away, (getting super clean), then running a thin weld around the outside edge where it broke off...

 

[Bluesfan83]

Won't the heat from welding damage the bearing?

 

[twobob1]

Im not sure bro, I guess that will be the make or break of weather or not it can be successfully repaired without a engine strip down.

I found a vid on aluminium case welding it might be of help but the guy has got the engine stripped down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AK3cZF4vRmg

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Won't the heat from welding damage the bearing?

That bearing gets semi hot during operation. If the welder can keep the case as cool as possible (its a small, thin bead he's running-hopefully) it should be ok.

I've seen TIG welders weld aluminum foil to itself. That's the guy you'd like to have...

That video above, the guys filling the large hole with the rod, your not. You have the piece that's missing.
The welder should simply be cleaning the area, (I cringe ever time he touches that block contaminating it),
put the piece in place and run the bead around it.

Normally, you "V" the aluminum edge out some you can fill the "groove" for better strength. As you bearing is supported already, your really just welding a hole closed. I'd run the weld around the break, and DON'T grind it
down to look pretty (and loose strength).

*BTW, your not the first to put a chain thru the case. Another member bought an FZ and it started leaking oil from the sprocket area... The PO EPOXIED either the old part in or just over the hole(forgot) and didn't disclose it. Heat eventually popped the epoxy loose...

 

[Bluesfan83]

So I'm sure people will have negative remarks but I used JB weld on the piece and put it back on the back and it's working no leaks. Everything is back on the bike but 2nd gear sounds like a clunking noise, thats what gear I was in when the chain broke.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So I'm sure people will have negative remarks but I used JB weld on the piece and put it back on the back and it's working no leaks. Everything is back on the bike but 2nd gear sounds like a clunking noise, thats what gear I was in when the chain broke.

Another new member, who just bought an FZ developed an oil leak. Sure enough, chain went thru the case, and the PO used something to re-attach it to put up for sale.

Run it till / if it leaks, then go from there...

Re 2nd gear, does it clunk ALL THE TIME when just in that gear, shifting or ? You damage should not have affected 2nd gear..