Help Removing Rear Wheel Bearing

[weehe]

Well I finally found out what has been causing my weird crunching sound, my sprocket side rear wheel bearing. The thing was toast, I'm guessing from the previous owners fall. Since the sprocket separated from the hub, it was pretty easy to remove the bearing and replace it. I realized I should also replace the other bearing, so have a new one on order. However, looking at the other side (disk brake side) I have no clue how I am going to get it out. I had to pound the crap out of the sprocket bearing with a large socket to get it out. There is no way I can get the socket through the wheel to do that with the other. Is there some trick that I am not thinking of, or will I have to remove all of the bearings in the middle to fit the socket in, to get the other bearing out.

For reference, page 4-10 of the 04-06 manual, #5 bearing on the left side.

Hopefully that makes sense, if not I'll try and clear it up.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well I finally found out what has been causing my weird crunching sound, my sprocket side rear wheel bearing. The thing was toast, I'm guessing from the previous owners fall. Since the sprocket separated from the hub, it was pretty easy to remove the bearing and replace it. I realized I should also replace the other bearing, so have a new one on order. However, looking at the other side (disk brake side) I have no clue how I am going to get it out. I had to pound the crap out of the sprocket bearing with a large socket to get it out. There is no way I can get the socket through the wheel to do that with the other. Is there some trick that I am not thinking of, or will I have to remove all of the bearings in the middle to fit the socket in, to get the other bearing out.

For reference, page 4-10 of the 04-06 manual, #5 bearing on the left side.

Hopefully that makes sense, if not I'll try and clear it up.

Here's the parts fisch, a little easier to see things(different reference #'s too);

2004 Yamaha FZ6 (FZ600SS) Rear Wheel | Babbitts Online

There is a retaining circlip inside the wheel.

For any bearings inside the wheel itself, you can carefully use an 3/8" extension and slowly AND EVENLY knock the old one out(striking strictly the outside of the bearing, NOT the inside). Installation would be the same, just be carefull what your hammering on...

I don't think you'll be able to get around the needle bearing and spacer.

With the damage that's already been done, IMO, I'd replace all the bearings in there (do it right) so you don't have to worry about it failing later...

 

[weehe]

Here's the parts fisch, a little easier to see things(different reference #'s too);

2004 Yamaha FZ6 (FZ600SS) Rear Wheel | Babbitts Online

There is a retaining circlip inside the wheel.

For any bearings inside the wheel itself, you can carefully use an 3/8" extension and slowly AND EVENLY knock the old one out(striking strictly the outside of the bearing, NOT the inside). Installation would be the same, just be carefull what your hammering on...

I don't think you'll be able to get around the needle bearing and spacer.

With the damage that's already been done, IMO, I'd replace all the bearings in there (do it right) so you don't have to worry about it failing later...

Ok I am a bit confused now. There seem to be two diagrams showing bearings for the rear wheel. The one you posted, which has a circlip and then one that doesn't. I can't post the page directly from the manual, but it shows that there is no circlip, then on the next page it shows there is. Is there a bearing on the outside of the circlip and being held in by it?

Also, what other bearings are there, just the needle one?

 

[FinalImpact]

I've never knocked the seal out on the RIGHT SIDE to observe a C-Clip/keeper. But it does make sense that it is there as the left side is a flat needle bearing and there is nothing to "center the assembly" per say. So the Right Side is taking the load of keeping the wheel in position (L to R) and SHOULD HAVE A BEARING RETAINER of some kind. Like a keeper!

FSM - like yours, Does not show it on one page and then lists it on the next. They also omitted the needle bearing too (1st pg).

With the seal out, it should be obvious. Keep in mind that ONCE force was applied to MOVE the old bearing outward (Right side), the keeper is NOW UNDER STRAIN and may NOT come out easily. To correct this, drive the bearing back inside the wheel, remove the keeper and then drive the bearing outward!

IME - because the RS bearing IS NOT being used again, I'd drive it out from the center so you don't have play teeter totter tapping on one side and then the other and c0cking from side to side.

Q? So, are you saying you easily removed the needle bearing assembly from the LEFT SIDE of the wheel? With the RS bearing in there, that seems like that would be difficult!?

No value add, but pictures...
Hub assembly:

LS needle bearing:

 

[weehe]

I've never knocked the seal out on the RIGHT SIDE to observe a C-Clip/keeper. But it does make sense that it is there as the left side is a flat needle bearing and there is nothing to "center the assembly" per say. So the Right Side is taking the load of keeping the wheel in position (L to R) and SHOULD HAVE A BEARING RETAINER of some kind. Like a keeper!

FSM - like yours, Does not show it on one page and then lists it on the next. They also omitted the needle bearing too (1st pg).

With the seal out, it should be obvious. Keep in mind that ONCE force was applied to MOVE the old bearing outward (Right side), the keeper is NOW UNDER STRAIN and may NOT come out easily. To correct this, drive the bearing back inside the wheel, remove the keeper and then drive the bearing outward!

IME - because the RS bearing IS NOT being used again, I'd drive it out from the center so you don't have play teeter totter tapping on one side and then the other and c0cking from side to side.

Q? So, are you saying you easily removed the needle bearing assembly from the LEFT SIDE of the wheel? With the RS bearing in there, that seems like that would be difficult!?

No value add, but pictures...
Hub assembly:

LS needle bearing:

Ok I think you got it backwards. The picture you have there is the bearing I already replaced. I am looking to replace the left side bearing that is exactly the same as the right side I replaced. I guess I just need to take off the oil seal and see if there is a clip in front of the bearing.

 

[FinalImpact]

However, looking at the other side (disk brake side) I have no clue how I am going to get it out.
I had to pound the crap out of the sprocket bearing with a large socket to get it out. There is no way I can get the socket through the wheel to do that with the other. Is there some trick that I am not thinking of, or will I have to remove all of the bearings in the middle to fit the socket in, to get the other bearing out.

For reference, page 4-10 of the 04-06 manual, #5 bearing on the left side.

Well, I suppose the fine line between left and right matters then. Above, it implies the "disk Brake Side" needs removed which is on the RIGHT SIDE :don'tknow::don'tknow:

That said, there are TWO ROLLER BEARINGS, one is in the HUB item # 13 and one is in the RS of the Wheel. If neither of the BALL BEARINGS are in question, that leaves the left side NEEDLE BEARING in the wheel which is PITA!

That said, there is this pictures: Which one are you having trouble with?
# 2 roller bearing, # 4 (needle), or # 13 roller bearing in the hub?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Generally speaking, with the pictures posted above from Yamaha, that IS the order of assembly.

Besides that needle beaing being a tight(ish) fit, you also have the drive hub helping to hold things together on that side.

Also, depending on what exact bearing we're dealing with, using the OLD bearing slightly ground down on the outside just a tad CAN usually be used for re-installing the new one. It generally helps keep things straight and minimizes potential collateral damage using a punch(especially on that needle bearing).

BTW, differences in pictures and parts are NOT unusual. IE, the swing arm for the S2, in the Yamaha shop manual, shows the S1 swing arm.

 

[weehe]

OK I apologize for the confusion. When I said right or left, it was looking at the pictures, so looking at the bike head on. That said, in what I am asking about is on the left side (disk side, in the hub) and I have already replaced the right side (in sprocket). I believe the one I am looking to replace is #2 in your picture, I have already replaced #13. If you look at the picture I posted above, it shows #5 bearing on both sides. If you were to take the wheel off and look at the disk brake you will see the spacer, oil seal then the bearing I am talking about. It is the outer most roller bearing, not the needle bearing on the inside, that I need to replace. So my confusion is, is my picture different and those are not the bearings I am talking about or is my picture right and there is also an inner bearing being held in with the clip, inside the roller bearing I want to replace.

 

[FinalImpact]

Wehee, LEFT and RIGHT vehicle specific references ARE ALWAYS from the driver/rider SEAT looking Forward, NOT from outside the vehicle looking head on. This can very important at the parts counter as they will be using the CHAIN SIDE = LEFT SIDE of the bike as reference.

OK I apologize for the confusion. When I said right or left, it was looking at the pictures, so looking at the bike head on.

That said, in what I am asking about is on the RIGHT side (disk side, in the hub) and I have already replaced the LEFT side (in sprocket). I believe the one I am looking to replace is #2 in your picture, I have already replaced #13. If you look at the picture I posted above, it shows #5 bearing on both sides. If you were to take the wheel off and look at the disk brake you will see the spacer, oil seal then the bearing I am talking about. It is the outer most roller bearing, not the needle bearing on the inside, that I need to replace. So my confusion is, is my picture different and those are not the bearings I am talking about or is my picture right and there is also an inner bearing being held in with the clip, inside the roller bearing I want to replace.

Its just like this: The spacer/sleeve pulls out (#6). Then you see the larger roller bearing.
Pop the seals off the RS from the outside (#19, #3). You will see a keeper (#5). Remove the keeper and then drive the bearing out from the inside of the wheel (From the left).

Hopefully this makes sense this time...
PS - we can't have Copy Written material posted on the forum. SO the FSM picture (page) needs removed. Sorry. Its required to keep our site out of trouble!

 

[weehe]

OK, I guess there is no easy way to do it. The main point I was trying to ask was if I had to remove everything in the wheel (#4, 6 and 7) to then be able to punch out the wheel bearing from the back. The question about the circlip/keeper came from it not being in my manual picture. I'll just make sure I have the keeper tool and hope I can punch out the bearing easily.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

OK, I guess there is no easy way to do it. The main point I was trying to ask was if I had to remove everything in the wheel (#4, 6 and 7) to then be able to punch out the wheel bearing from the back. The question about the circlip/keeper came from it not being in my manual picture. I'll just make sure I have the keeper tool and hope I can punch out the bearing easily.

Those bearings are generally as NOT tight as say automotive or trailer hub bearings. I think you'll find it much easier once you get into it...

And yes, just go to say Babbits (or any other parts place on-line) and grab one of thier pic's / links and post. Everyones on the same page then..

 

[weehe]

Replaced the bearing last weekend. It was pretty easy as you guys said. Just heated up the hub with a torch and hit it out with a long socket extension. Didn't realize the spacer came out so easily to get a good angle on it (was held in by grease). Will update my old post from almost a year ago now about a weird crunching sound lol.