Gear selector level limp

[jackjohnsonuk]

Hi all,

Bike model - 2004, mileage circa 10k

I've recently, since the winter, found my gear selector lever goes limp and requires a nudge slightly upwards to get it to "firm back up" after a change down. It moves up the gears fine, but requires either a few good stamps, or like I said a gentle nudge up, to get it to feel firm and move down. It's particularly bad going from 3->2->1.

I've already checked chain (tension) and made sure the front cog isn't too clogged up, I took off the gear selector and casing and checked nothing was binding in there and all looks ok

Any suggestions on where else to start looking?

Thanks for your help

J

Edit: added some more useful info

 

[agf]

The lever isnt hitting in the triangle opening on the footpeg guard is it? It might be that you need to shorten/lengthen the connecting rod by a couple of turns.
I had a similar issue a few years back, the lever was pointing down more than it should, I liked the postion but it hit the edge of the guard. I could have cut and re-welded for the angle but got used to the "correct" position pretty quick.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Besides the above, lube (not WD 40 but say spray "liquid wrench") all the heim joints in the shifter linkage.

Their under the small round rubber boots at the ends of the long shifter adjuster rod.


The chain is lubed and adjusted to about 2", 50mm's, total up and down at the mid point on the center stand???

When you pulled the "gear selector", is that the shifter lever? Did you pull out the shaft it attaches to, clean both the shaft and hole and re-grease?

If those parts were not cleaned/greased, (or in the past), that grease is 12 years old and it will get sticky..


Please post back what you come up with..

 

[FinalImpact]

All suggestions thus far are spot on... +5

Before the server swap we had some pictures of the shift mechanism with the two sets of springs.

One of the last failures was from poor circulation of engine oil and moisture build up...

If you had the cover having the shift shaft off, the springs were not found to be broken and the shaft sprung back to center willingly?

What oil do you run in this and when was it last changed? There is no evidence of milkshake looking oil?

 

[jackjohnsonuk]

Thanks guys for taking the time to respond, some great suggestions so far.

Similarly to you agf I like my gear lever pointing a little lower.. I've just been and checked it's range of movements and it isn't snaggin on either of the points in that triangle.. all feels free

TownsendsFJR1300 - I lubed the heim joints with a non WD40 lubricant (silicon based one) when i investigated this issue a few weeks ago, unfortunately that didn't fix it. I've checked the chain, it's all lubed and between the 45mm-55mm speced. Your right I did mean the shifter lever, and I did pull out and regreased the hole and the shaft...

FinalImpact - I did check both springs and made sure it freely returned, nothing out of the ordinary. I've only owned the bike for a year and haven't changed the oil since I've had it. The service history is a bit spotty so I can't be certain when it was last done. I guess that's the next step then?

Thanks all for your help

 

[erburtt]

Question about your riding style, when you're trying to shift down are you doing this as you coast to a stop with the clutch in? What I mean is, are you downshifting continuously (clutch in, downshift, clutch out let the engine braking do its thing, repeat), or are you just coming to a stop with the clutch in using only the brakes to slow you to then try to click through all the gears down to 1st?

When I have an emergency stop for whatever reason, which means clutch in and brake hard not concerning myself with shifting till I'm stopped, I find it takes a couple tries to get it to downshift right to 1st. Something with the meshing of the gears beyond my understanding of how the tranny works (never had it apart, fingers crossed).

Could it be something simple like this? if you haven't changed the oil yet in your ownership of the bike I would (hopefully) assume you haven't put that many miles on it and don't have a full feel for all the bikes quirks. For the future its good practice (unless you're very confident in the person you're buying from) to change all the fluids regardless of what they've told you. I would be changing that oil ASAP, then get into flushing brake fluid and coolant, I've seen the fluids out of a poorley maintained engine, and they aren't a pretty thing.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think I'd use something a bit heavier than silcone, The rubber tends to suck it up and then dry out (but your on the right track)...

With all that you've done so far, I think I would start at the top (where the shifter shaft comes out of the engine) until you find a sticky or lazy point. It should all be pretty loose and popping back.

Re the springs, did you pop them off and make sure neither had a permanent , slight "stretch" to it? That'd cause a lazy shifter..
While assembled, it'd be hard to tell and springs can get lazy/stretched. I'd probably replace those anyway as their cheap enough and no chance of them NOW being the issue.

There's really not much else to check / lube, etc, short of an oil change (which should be done anyway). Make sure you DON'T put in automotive oil...

And lastly, was the bike down on the left side or any evidence of damage IE, (mounting bracket possibly bent, missing a grommet, things NOT lining up correctly?

 

[jackjohnsonuk]

erburtt - I clutch out between every downshift and am either in 1st, or on occasion 2, as I come to a stop. I did think about that being a possibility but after spending some time focusing on that part of my riding I'm sure I'm not rolling to a stop then having to kick down a chunk of gears.
I've already changed the brake fluids and the coolant fluid, I was planning on doing the oil shortly anyway... guess it's just jumped up the list.

TownsendsFJR1300- Thanks for that, I'll rethink my choice of lubricant and reapply something a little more manly. Fairly sure that the silicone stuff would have given it enough lubrication to at least temporarily sort the issue.
I did take both springs off and see if they were stretched, all seemed to be fine. Like you say I will replace them though just to be sure... just need to find where to get them over here.
It does look like it's been down on the left side, nothing obvious broken or bent, everything lines up fine. It was that way when I brought it and was fine all of last year, so i imagine unlikely.

I think next step is to change the oil and then like Townsend said start taking things apart till i find something sticking...

Thanks for the help everyone... If anyone thinks of anything else please let me know..

If/when I find the gremlin I'll of course update everyone

J

 

[FinalImpact]

Question: can you duplicate this with the engine off? If so, try this....
With the rear tire in the air, disconnect the heim joint at the splined shaft and try selecting gears with the engine off using the lever at the transmission shaft.
You will need to rotate the rear tire by hand for the gears to fully engage as are they snub nosed cogs that must drop into a slider.

If duplicated while assembled and then seperate the bike from the trans, this should give a clear picture of where to go next.

 

[SandyN]

Do you put the ball of your foot back on the peg after each shift, or do you leave your foot on the lever?
Remember, the lever needs to reset after each shift. Perhaps you are leaving your foot there and the lever can't reset.

Sent from my GT-I8190 using Tapatalk

 

[jackjohnsonuk]

Thanks for all the idea's guys.. unfortunately the weathers been rubbish here since my last reply. I will definitely give it a go with the engine off and see if i can replicate it.. A great suggestion.

I'm 99% sure Sandy I return the ball of the foot to the peg between but I'll focus on that on my next ride out and see if that makes a difference.

Thanks guys, really appreciate the help