lawlberg
Booth Babe
So I've been talking about this for a while, no writeup until now - but I'll keep it brief, with mostly pictures! Also - expect a sub-par writeup because I'm catching up on Game of Thrones and otherwise preoccupied.
This is what you'll wind up with -
Components -
VS-01 Kit - originally from Vishnu, bought from another user on the forum
Sportbike Stage 3 kit - TheRetrofitSource
Contents: 35w Ballast. 5k bulb. Wiring Harness. Morimoto D2S Bi-Xenon Projector. Amber LED Angle eye. One of the oval shrouds.
Matte Black Spraypaint.
:* It should go without saying, but don't touch lightbulbs - your fingers are oily and you should feel bad. But really - it will decrease bulb performance, probably overheat, explode, you'll need a new bulb and you might damage your projector. Use alcohol wipes to clean the outside of the lens and everything before you seal it up.
Step 1: Take off your headlight - use wrenches and or allen keys, depending on how it's attached. This includes the mini fairings attached to it.
Step 2: Remove all of the metal and rubber stuff from the headlight assembly - also take out the bulb. You can throw it out if you want - won't need it anymore.
Step 3: Take off the lens. Much harder if you don't heat it up in the oven, believe me - you won't want to put it in for long enough, scared of frying it, but yeah, put her in the oven on 200ish (Fahrenheit) for 15 minutes, (it'll be warm when you take it out) and the lens should just pull out of the housing easily. If you're impatient, you can use a screwdriver, prybars etc and ding up the plastic a lot and curse as you try to take it apart, ask me how I know.
Step 4: Fit your projector in it. Take it out. You'll thank me later. I painted my reflector (on the VS-01 kit) black - I like how it looks.
Step 5: Determine which wires are the High Beam actuator - on a bi-xenon setup, the bulb is always running, a small reflector moves in/out of the way to switch between high and low beam. On the Morimoto D2S, it has been known to stick from time to time. Mine stuck when I put it in at first, I had to take it out and fiddle with it a bit and now it works fine. So test it first before you seal your light all the way back together. If it doesn't work, make sure the wires coming off of the actuator aren't binding anywhere - this was my issue.
Step 6: Attach your Angel Eye to the shroud. Use the push pin/small drillbit/wire method to attach them - a thin enough gauge wire and you won't notice it, especially with how bright the LED angel eye is.
Step 7: file off a little tab where the bulb sits in the headlight assembly - you'll know which one I"m talking about when you see it, it'll get in the way of securing the projector.
Step 8: Pass the wires through the light, clamp the projector onto the headlight assembly - make sure you have all of the washers and stuff in the right order, if it's off, the beam will look strange - like this! (pretty good, not perfect - when I took it apart and put it back together right, it looks perfect, though I haven't taken a new picture of the beam)
Step 9: Slide on/secure your centric ring/shroud/angel eye - I used a dab of Shoe Goo - since I had it laying around and it's basically rubber cement, easy to remove if need be.
Step 10: Test it on the bike - do this before you put the cover on. This requires wiring it all up.
Step 11: If it works the way you want it to (wired up and stuff, thoughts on that are below, including where to put the ballast) put it all back together and go blind the sh1t out of some cages. Enjoy how well signs, people, and animal eyes are illuminated, but watch out, you might notice more with these things
Ballast: I attached my ballast to the underside of my gauge mounting plate using screws. Since my kit came with a ballast with only a 12 inch cord, I didn't have a choice - the SB Stage III kit should come with a 24 inch long cord on the ballast, allowing you to hide it under the tank, I made it work and didn't bother complaining.
My ballast is the black box right behind the wiring connectors, says SS on it
You'll connect the ballast onto the bulb, and the other wire on the ballast will hook in with the wiring harness. Your High beam wire will also be connected behind the headlight, feeding back through the left side of the frame as well.
Angel Eye: I wired my angel eye to the daytime running light function of my turn signals. Since I had upgraded to LEDs that only had 2 wires, I wanted to keep a bit of amber on the bike at all times, also because the projector doesn't point at the eyes of a cager, it makes me more noticable to have the angel eye on at the same time as the HID. Tip: Ride (during the day) with the projector on high beam mode, makes you more visible, won't blind people because it's bright out.
Wiring: - It's a bit of a PITA to fit all of the wires back in the bike, especially without fairings. I won't tell you which wires to connect where, it's pretty self explanatory and I"m not looking at them as I type this up so it's probably best I don't tell you.
To fit them in, you'll need to take out your battery and airbox.
I didn't cut any of the stock harnesses down - they're all still in my bike, with plenty of room to spare.
Once the battery and airbox are out of the way, pull the coil back and start pulling wires into the frame. I ran the central wiring harness out the right side, since the throttle and clutch cables go in the left side you have more room. The only stock wires that really need to come out of the frame towards the front are the instrument cluster wires and turn signals. You can pull the existing H4 connector back inside and connect that to your new (huge) wiring harness beneath/above the ignition coil.
This picture is before I had the HID harness in there, but you get the idea of tucking the wires back in there. That's my old turn signal relay sitting where the battery should, it'll rest fine above the battery or just past it, in your airbox.
I have a modded airbox, so there's plenty of space to just drape the turn signal relay and the HID relay over the battery and slightly in the opening of the airbox - watch out - I'm probably loosing 30 horsepower doing it this way.
Mounting the headlight - To be honest - I don't know if it'll fit right or not without adding in spacers. I did my handlebar mod at the same time, so the clutch cable wound up getting in the way and I had to push the headlight forward an inch or so using small metal plates in order to be able to adjust the headlight upwards, not a big deal, if you've made it this far, you'll figure it out if it's an issue.
Here's a snag from a video on my GoPro, returning home at dusk - only shot of the beam cutoff since I adjusted everything, fixed the sticking high beam and reassembled it. That fixed the strange beam pattern some of you noticed a few weeks ago when I posted this before -
Anyway - let me know if you have questions, I can definitely be more helpful than this. Next in the line of posts - Lawlberg shows you how cruddy his coolant was when he changed it a few weeks ago.
This is what you'll wind up with -
Components -
VS-01 Kit - originally from Vishnu, bought from another user on the forum
Sportbike Stage 3 kit - TheRetrofitSource
Contents: 35w Ballast. 5k bulb. Wiring Harness. Morimoto D2S Bi-Xenon Projector. Amber LED Angle eye. One of the oval shrouds.
Matte Black Spraypaint.
:* It should go without saying, but don't touch lightbulbs - your fingers are oily and you should feel bad. But really - it will decrease bulb performance, probably overheat, explode, you'll need a new bulb and you might damage your projector. Use alcohol wipes to clean the outside of the lens and everything before you seal it up.
Step 1: Take off your headlight - use wrenches and or allen keys, depending on how it's attached. This includes the mini fairings attached to it.
Step 2: Remove all of the metal and rubber stuff from the headlight assembly - also take out the bulb. You can throw it out if you want - won't need it anymore.
Step 3: Take off the lens. Much harder if you don't heat it up in the oven, believe me - you won't want to put it in for long enough, scared of frying it, but yeah, put her in the oven on 200ish (Fahrenheit) for 15 minutes, (it'll be warm when you take it out) and the lens should just pull out of the housing easily. If you're impatient, you can use a screwdriver, prybars etc and ding up the plastic a lot and curse as you try to take it apart, ask me how I know.
Step 4: Fit your projector in it. Take it out. You'll thank me later. I painted my reflector (on the VS-01 kit) black - I like how it looks.
Step 5: Determine which wires are the High Beam actuator - on a bi-xenon setup, the bulb is always running, a small reflector moves in/out of the way to switch between high and low beam. On the Morimoto D2S, it has been known to stick from time to time. Mine stuck when I put it in at first, I had to take it out and fiddle with it a bit and now it works fine. So test it first before you seal your light all the way back together. If it doesn't work, make sure the wires coming off of the actuator aren't binding anywhere - this was my issue.
Step 6: Attach your Angel Eye to the shroud. Use the push pin/small drillbit/wire method to attach them - a thin enough gauge wire and you won't notice it, especially with how bright the LED angel eye is.
Step 7: file off a little tab where the bulb sits in the headlight assembly - you'll know which one I"m talking about when you see it, it'll get in the way of securing the projector.
Step 8: Pass the wires through the light, clamp the projector onto the headlight assembly - make sure you have all of the washers and stuff in the right order, if it's off, the beam will look strange - like this! (pretty good, not perfect - when I took it apart and put it back together right, it looks perfect, though I haven't taken a new picture of the beam)
Step 9: Slide on/secure your centric ring/shroud/angel eye - I used a dab of Shoe Goo - since I had it laying around and it's basically rubber cement, easy to remove if need be.
Step 10: Test it on the bike - do this before you put the cover on. This requires wiring it all up.
Step 11: If it works the way you want it to (wired up and stuff, thoughts on that are below, including where to put the ballast) put it all back together and go blind the sh1t out of some cages. Enjoy how well signs, people, and animal eyes are illuminated, but watch out, you might notice more with these things
Ballast: I attached my ballast to the underside of my gauge mounting plate using screws. Since my kit came with a ballast with only a 12 inch cord, I didn't have a choice - the SB Stage III kit should come with a 24 inch long cord on the ballast, allowing you to hide it under the tank, I made it work and didn't bother complaining.
My ballast is the black box right behind the wiring connectors, says SS on it
You'll connect the ballast onto the bulb, and the other wire on the ballast will hook in with the wiring harness. Your High beam wire will also be connected behind the headlight, feeding back through the left side of the frame as well.
Angel Eye: I wired my angel eye to the daytime running light function of my turn signals. Since I had upgraded to LEDs that only had 2 wires, I wanted to keep a bit of amber on the bike at all times, also because the projector doesn't point at the eyes of a cager, it makes me more noticable to have the angel eye on at the same time as the HID. Tip: Ride (during the day) with the projector on high beam mode, makes you more visible, won't blind people because it's bright out.
Wiring: - It's a bit of a PITA to fit all of the wires back in the bike, especially without fairings. I won't tell you which wires to connect where, it's pretty self explanatory and I"m not looking at them as I type this up so it's probably best I don't tell you.
To fit them in, you'll need to take out your battery and airbox.
I didn't cut any of the stock harnesses down - they're all still in my bike, with plenty of room to spare.
Once the battery and airbox are out of the way, pull the coil back and start pulling wires into the frame. I ran the central wiring harness out the right side, since the throttle and clutch cables go in the left side you have more room. The only stock wires that really need to come out of the frame towards the front are the instrument cluster wires and turn signals. You can pull the existing H4 connector back inside and connect that to your new (huge) wiring harness beneath/above the ignition coil.
This picture is before I had the HID harness in there, but you get the idea of tucking the wires back in there. That's my old turn signal relay sitting where the battery should, it'll rest fine above the battery or just past it, in your airbox.
I have a modded airbox, so there's plenty of space to just drape the turn signal relay and the HID relay over the battery and slightly in the opening of the airbox - watch out - I'm probably loosing 30 horsepower doing it this way.
Mounting the headlight - To be honest - I don't know if it'll fit right or not without adding in spacers. I did my handlebar mod at the same time, so the clutch cable wound up getting in the way and I had to push the headlight forward an inch or so using small metal plates in order to be able to adjust the headlight upwards, not a big deal, if you've made it this far, you'll figure it out if it's an issue.
Here's a snag from a video on my GoPro, returning home at dusk - only shot of the beam cutoff since I adjusted everything, fixed the sticking high beam and reassembled it. That fixed the strange beam pattern some of you noticed a few weeks ago when I posted this before -
Anyway - let me know if you have questions, I can definitely be more helpful than this. Next in the line of posts - Lawlberg shows you how cruddy his coolant was when he changed it a few weeks ago.
