FZ6 Wont Start

NOLA

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So I've searched the forum probably 40 times and found some good troubleshooting but have not been successful yet and all of the posts varied some from my situation. I am new to streetbikes and have just bought a used 2004 FZ6 with 22k miles. The bike cranked great for 3 or 4 days with no issues but I did not go out and ride it after cranking it. Then one day I went to crank it and it turns over fast, but will not actually start. I thought maybe it was just low voltage from cranking it and not riding it. So I tried to bump start it with no luck. I then lifted the tank and attached jumper cables from my truck to the bike and it is spinning over really fast but still without firing. I feel like this rules out the low voltage possibility. Next thing I noticed is that since I have been having issues, the fuel pump will not prime like usual when I put the key to the on position in the ignition. I have rocked the Run/Stop switch multiple times while turning the key on and off to try to get the bike to prime in case it was a faulty killswitch. When the switch is in the kill position it will not even let the bike spin over though, so I figured that wasn't the culprit. I have checked the EFI fuse, and others on the passenger side of the bike and they were all good. Another thing I noticed is that when I try to start the bike, the engine light will be solid for 2 seconds, then blink rapidly while trying to start, then when I stop trying to start it, it shuts off. I checked D61 and it gave back values of 12,30,46 and D2 gave a value of 3. So I pulled the tip sensor plug and turned the key on, then plugged it back in as recommended by someone in another post but it didn't appear to make a difference. This is my first bike and I haven't even been able to leave my apartment with it, so it is kind of frustrating. I am sure it is something simple considering it purred like a kitten the day before. The only thing I did differently the day it stopped is killed the bike with the switch instead of the key.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. I grew up around ATV's and Dirt Bikes but these have a few more sensors and components then I am used to dealing with so I am open to any suggestions!

Thanks in advance,



My To Do List:

-Bypass Kill Switch Rocker
-Replace Fuel Pump Relay
-Check Voltage at Fuel Pump to see if it is getting voltage
-Roll the bike into the lake :D
 

Gary in NJ

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"Check Voltage at Fuel Pump to see if it is getting voltage"

Number 3 on your list should be number 1. The fact that you don't hear the pump priming leads me to believe that you have an issue with your pump or the fuel circuit. If you have voltage during the prime cycle, that isolates the pump as the culprit.

Don't start replacing parts or modifying the bike until you get the starting issue sorted out.
 

NOLA

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Good deal, I will check it out as soon as I can, I wasn't sure if this particular bike had any safeties that prevent the fuel pump from kicking on.
 

seanalan329

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I had a similar problem once, but I can't remember if the fuel pump primed or not with me. The issue was my breather fuel lines were kinked under the tank.
 

gulfpete

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-Check Voltage at Fuel Pump to see if it is getting voltage
-Roll the bike into the lake :D

In between these 2 stick in "-pull the fuel pump and check for rust/gunk"

If the bike hasn't run for a while there can be all sorts of gunk in the fuel tank
Best thing when you buy a bike is replace ALL fluids including fuel
 

NOLA

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OK, so..small update, I have my 1 year old son with me this weekend so troubleshooting is limited, but I did have a chance to check the voltage at the pump, I know it is supposed to be 12v but I am getting a reading of ~7v. The sending unit plug gets 12v. I believe what I read in the forum is that the pump is the green plug with the red wire/blue tracer and black wire. Does this receive the voltage from the large black relay under the driver's side pod at the rear? If so, could that relay not be putting off enough voltage, which is stopping the pump from spooling?
 

FinalImpact

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That 7 volts while connected leads me to think the pump is stalled making a short circuit dropping your voltage.

With a small gauge wire set like say 16 to 20 gauge wire, jump from the battery directly to the fuel pump. If the pump doesn't run, it is likely jambed with rust and the tank needs drained, pump removed, and filter and pump removed and cleaned.

Is it fair to say that once off for more than 5min and the key turned on, the pump can not be heard?
If yes, get a good flashlight and inspect the tanks insides for signs of rust.

Plugged vent hoses will not cause this. They may have been responsible for excessive moisture inside tho!
 

NOLA

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I unplugged from the pump while testing the voltage to make sure 12v was getting to the pump. So since it wasn't actually plugged into the pump when I tested, could it be the relay not sending a full 12v? I will still try to apply straight power to the pump this afternoon when my son goes home and see if it runs. Thanks for the quick response though. Going to go check out the tank for rust now.
 

FinalImpact

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Mechanicaly if the pump is stalled (can't rotate) it draws a lot of current. If energy is applied too long, the DC motor burns and is ruined. In short a quick tap of voltage from the battery does not make it run, it is stalled and may have failed with no means of recovery.

The good news is these pumps/motors are used in hundreds of applications and can be bought on fleebay for cheap. Mind you Yama does not service the pump/fuel sender. It is replacement only at $550....

I suggest during testing you reverse the leads to run the motor backwards. It may free up the debris if the motor is not damaged.

Do only quick jumps, momentarily connecting power. It should spin instantly. If it does not, DO NOT LEAVE POWER APPLIED.
OK
 

FinalImpact

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PS do NOT jump these bikes from a running vehicle. The vehicle sees the bike as a load and applies too much current to it damaging the rectifier/regulator assembly.

Leave the vehicle off.
 

Motogiro

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OK, so..small update, I have my 1 year old son with me this weekend so troubleshooting is limited, but I did have a chance to check the voltage at the pump, I know it is supposed to be 12v but I am getting a reading of ~7v. The sending unit plug gets 12v. I believe what I read in the forum is that the pump is the green plug with the red wire/blue tracer and black wire. Does this receive the voltage from the large black relay under the driver's side pod at the rear? If so, could that relay not be putting off enough voltage, which is stopping the pump from spooling?

There is a unit called the "starter circuit cut off relay" It has the relay that passes current to the fuel pump as well allowing the starter circuit to operate. Chances are that if the starter is operational then the fuel pump relay should also be passing current. There are 2 relays in that circuit that are interrupted if the safety logic has been compromised via the side stand, clutch safety switch and the neutral switch.
Just for chitzengiggles....Put the bike in neutral, you should see the neutral light on the dash. put the side stand up, pull in the clutch lever and turn the key to on. Do you get the fuel pump prime? If not, there is a fuse that feeds the fuel injectors and fuel pump relay input. See this link. #6 on the fuse block diagram is the fuel injection fuse. It is a 10 amp fuse. Check it to see if it is blown. If it is blown there is a good chance current went high at the fuel pump and it may need service/replacement. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/659495/Yamaha-Fz6.html?page=77
 

NOLA

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Ok, so I hooked 12V straight to the pump briefly and it spooled up properly with no issues. I already checked the fuse in the block as one of my first steps and the fuse is good, I even threw another 10amp in for good measure. I am headed back outside now to do the safety check recommended. I also remember seeing a way to test the safeties in DIAG mode but I will have to dig up which numbers it was. If I still do not have any luck, then I guess the relay would be my next step to change. I am bringing it in for service next week, if I can't get it working, I may just have them take a look at it, I was hoping to do it myself to get to know the bike but it's teasing me not being able to ride it since I bought it.
 

NOLA

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So I cycled the ignition with the stands both up and the clutch pulled in and in neutral. No luck, the starter spins fast but the pump does not prime at the initial key turn. So to recap this is what has been tested and what is going on:
- Tested voltage at Fuel Pump Plug (green plug) (unplugged from pump) while turning key on ~ 7V
- Tested voltage at Sending Plug (white plug) (unplugged) 12V
- Connected Fuel Pump directly to battery briefly - Pump runs like normal and sounds fine.
- Checked all fuses on rear right fuse block, all are in good condition.

I now have Error Code 43, I guess from applying the voltage directly to the fuel pump from the battery, this is new since then though, so unrelated to original issue.

The bike still spins over fast but will not run, and it does not prime when I initially turn the key on. I also notice that at night the headlights are not turning on whenever I turn the key on. I am new to the bike, but I thought I originally remembered them coming on.

Thanks for all the help already guys, this seems like an amazing community, hopefully I can get this thing running and then I can return the favor one day ;)

Open to more suggestions, if I don't get it working, it is going to the shop on Tuesday, unfortunately I don't have a ton of disposable income, so I'd like to fix it myself lol.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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So I cycled the ignition with the stands both up and the clutch pulled in and in neutral. No luck, the starter spins fast but the pump does not prime at the initial key turn. So to recap this is what has been tested and what is going on:

- Tested voltage at Fuel Pump Plug (unplugged from pump) ~ 7V
- Tested voltage at Fuel Pump Sending Plug (unplugged) 12V

- Connected Fuel Pump directly to battery briefly - Pump runs like normal and sounds fine.
- Checked all fuses on rear right fuse block, all are in good condition.

I now have Error Code 43, I guess from applying the voltage directly to the fuel pump from the battery, this is new since then though, so unrelated to original issue.

In bold above, do you have 7 volts or 12 volts to the pump when the key is initially turned on?

(Once the system is pressurized, the pump turns off until needed-it does not run constantly)
 

NOLA

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Yes during the priming cycle it is at 7V, I held the meter and had someone turn the key on while I watched. Sorry I was a little unclear with that, I will reword it.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Yes during the priming cycle it is at 7V, I held the meter and had someone turn the key on while I watched. Sorry I was a little unclear with that, I will reword it.

Did you use the second ground wire in that harness for your test (initial turn key on)?

If your still seeing only 7 volts, as Cliff mentioned above, [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION] (and maybe confirm), the contacts inside are crappy and not allowing full voltage thru to the pump. [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]


Here's a pic of a starter relay CONTACT POINTS from my Yamaha F150 outboard engine that failed(as an example):

 

FinalImpact

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I read that wrong too. I thought OP said the fuel pump wire had 12v disconnected and 7v when connected.

That said Cliff nailed it with Starter interlock Relay issue. It is good to know the pump works.

Does the Green N light come on when in Neutral?
 

NOLA

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Yes, the neutral light does light on the dash. So that being said, are you guys suggesting that it could be that starter relay stopping the pump from kicking on, or should I start troubleshooting something else? Just wondering what my next step should be because I'm out of ideas on my own. (doesn't take much because I've never worked on one haha)
 
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