Topher
New Member
It may have taken a little persuasion and a little blood but I order the new kit just now thanks for the help guys.
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Topher
New Member
Re: How to repair fuel connectors
Is there a trick to getting the new lock in it doesn't seem like it wants to lock down it just kind of sits there and I can pull it out real easy I push and it just doesn't want to go back down any farther
Is there a trick to getting the new lock in it doesn't seem like it wants to lock down it just kind of sits there and I can pull it out real easy I push and it just doesn't want to go back down any farther
Re: How to repair fuel connectors
What all was replaced? Did you replace the external shell? If not, just use the original blue lock knowing it only fits one way.
Make sure the conductors (female pin) are fully seated to depth too.
Lastly, mixing different sets could be an issue too. Only fit those to the pieces they came with.
What all was replaced? Did you replace the external shell? If not, just use the original blue lock knowing it only fits one way.
Make sure the conductors (female pin) are fully seated to depth too.
Lastly, mixing different sets could be an issue too. Only fit those to the pieces they came with.
Topher
New Member
Re: How to repair fuel connectors
I ordered whole new sets from the website one of the other members suggested unfortunately it did not fix my issue so I'm not sure where to go from here
I ordered whole new sets from the website one of the other members suggested unfortunately it did not fix my issue so I'm not sure where to go from here
Re: How to repair fuel connectors
Perhaps pictures would help? If the metal contacts do not fully seat, the blue lock will not drop in because the lock **may be** open and blocking the lock from.dropping in.
More details would really go a long way here about what does not work.
Good luck...
Perhaps pictures would help? If the metal contacts do not fully seat, the blue lock will not drop in because the lock **may be** open and blocking the lock from.dropping in.
More details would really go a long way here about what does not work.
Good luck...
Topher
New Member
Re: How to repair fuel connectors
I am at work at the moment will try to post some pics tomorrow. I replaced both wire connectors and themain plug and the lock. I got the lock to click in earlier I just was not pushing hard enough I guess. Got it all plugged back in and the fuel level Guage still flashes. I thought all I did was pulled a connector loose when the fuel tank slipped and fell but I may have done more damage somewhere else or maybe I just didn't put all the new plugs pieces back together correctly
I am at work at the moment will try to post some pics tomorrow. I replaced both wire connectors and themain plug and the lock. I got the lock to click in earlier I just was not pushing hard enough I guess. Got it all plugged back in and the fuel level Guage still flashes. I thought all I did was pulled a connector loose when the fuel tank slipped and fell but I may have done more damage somewhere else or maybe I just didn't put all the new plugs pieces back together correctly
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Re: How to repair fuel connectors
Flashing indicates the fuel tank is low, IE, the float "arm" is low. It's possible the arm got stuck at the bottom(kinda un-usual or the float came off the arm)
Once your tank is low, you may want to pull it and then see if you can hear the arm fall down(gravity) when you turn the tank over, IE, the lever is moving and the float doesn't fall out...
You can see the pump itself and the float arm:
Flashing indicates the fuel tank is low, IE, the float "arm" is low. It's possible the arm got stuck at the bottom(kinda un-usual or the float came off the arm)
Once your tank is low, you may want to pull it and then see if you can hear the arm fall down(gravity) when you turn the tank over, IE, the lever is moving and the float doesn't fall out...
You can see the pump itself and the float arm:
Re: How to repair fuel connectors
When I reassembled the contact and blue lock it took minimal pressure to engage the lock. Point; if you really had to force it, you need verify the pins conductor was not shoved out the back of the connector.
As in 1) visually look for the metallic contact. 2) insert a very small pin, needle, paper clip and verify continuity from the contact to the wire. What I am getting at is that by forcing the lock on, it may have crushed the contact or pushed it out. So even though the outer housing locks to the tanks sender, it may not be a good connection.
Another option is to pop the blue lock, extract both ground and sensor pins from connector and plug the wires onto the sensor. The contacts should firmly grip the male pins and not fall off. If they fall off, they are damaged and are likely the source of your problem.
An ohm meter to the tank sensor would be a good idea too. What does it read?
When I reassembled the contact and blue lock it took minimal pressure to engage the lock. Point; if you really had to force it, you need verify the pins conductor was not shoved out the back of the connector.
As in 1) visually look for the metallic contact. 2) insert a very small pin, needle, paper clip and verify continuity from the contact to the wire. What I am getting at is that by forcing the lock on, it may have crushed the contact or pushed it out. So even though the outer housing locks to the tanks sender, it may not be a good connection.
Another option is to pop the blue lock, extract both ground and sensor pins from connector and plug the wires onto the sensor. The contacts should firmly grip the male pins and not fall off. If they fall off, they are damaged and are likely the source of your problem.
An ohm meter to the tank sensor would be a good idea too. What does it read?
