Fuel level plug wire

[Topher]

Hey Guys been busy with the bike got some bad gas and fried a plug or two. Anyways got the plugs changed, drained the radiator while I was in there and I also pulled a wire out while I was draining the tank it fell and pulled it loose from the plug at the bottom of the tank. Everything runs fantastic now with the new plugs but the fuel level gauge says full and continuously flashes now. So is there an easy way to fix this I tried pushing the wires back into the bottom of the plug and that's not working so any help would be great. Thanks in advance

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd un-plug the plastic part from tank first.

With access to that now, you should be able to push a VERY SMALL retainer tab on the
metal connector to release it from the plastic plug.

Once that terminal is out, and if your VERY PATIENT, you may be able to un-crimp that terminal
(open it up enough to get the "pulled wire" back in. Re-install the wire, re-crimp and install in the plastic plug.

If that doesn't work for you, these folks may have the correct connector for you:
Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories

 

[Motogiro]

I'd un-plug the plastic part from tank first.

With access to that now, you should be able to push a VERY SMALL retainer tab on the
metal connector to release it from the plastic plug.

Once that terminal is out, and if your VERY PATIENT, you may be able to un-crimp that terminal
(open it up enough to get the "pulled wire" back in. Re-install the wire, re-crimp and install in the plastic plug.

If that doesn't work for you, these folks may have the correct connector for you:
Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories

They have some nice supplies at that web site. ^^^^^

 

[FinalImpact]

If you have an ohm meter or a test lamp you could test the black grond wire.
With an ohm meter set to low like 20 ohms or less, insert a paper clip into the gauge black lead connector. Connect ohm meter lead here the other to the battery ground lead. You should get 1 ohm or less.

Using a 12v test lamp, same as above but instead of battery Neg, connect the test lamp to Batt. Pos. The lamp should light. You can do the same test on the pumps black wire.

Any chance the tank dropped backwards hard enough to stick the float?

In the tech section is a sticky on fuel pump and fuel meter trouble shooting. It has lots detail and how to diagnose.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

He simply has a pulled wire out from the connector


Quote from the OPs first post::

"I also pulled a wire out while I was draining the tank it fell and pulled it loose from the plug"

 

[FinalImpact]

And the info above lets you know Which Wire!
Given the tool, it's 10 seconds of labor to determine which wire.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd think the wire hanging out in the open all by itself is probably the issue.

Have any tips removing the metal end from the plastic so he can re-attach the wire?

 

[FinalImpact]

Re:How to repair fuel connectors

Have any tips removing the metal end from the plastic so he can re-attach the wire?

You need two picks with a fine point. Sharper than these would be best: Pencil is for size reference.
The protrusion from the blue locks are fillers that keep the connectors locked in the housing.

Insert pick here, a curved one works best: Pry on both sides, but over the alignment groove offers best angle/fit:

Once the blue lock is removed a straight pick can be used to release the lock on the individual wires:
The blue arrow is the lock on our connector. Use the pick to get under the tab and lift in the direction of the red arrow. DO NOT pull on the wire until the tab lifts. Apply gentle pry force, then a gentle pull on the wire. If it does not come free, push it back in as you may have bound them already.
**Pulling without release only binds it making it impossible to remove, push the wire back in, lift the tab, pull the wire.

Here is the stock connector in good shape:
It should only fit back in from one direction. Locking is achieved when the rectangle is fully seated into the housing. The wire crimp retention goes opposite the tang in the connector that locks it in place. Then the blue lock holds the assembly together.
SIZE: Externally the connector is 3.00 mm X 2.30 mm Total length is 18 mm it takes a special crimp tool to make that crimp!

As you can see here, a dull pick slipped and tore up this lock. It is still usable.

Two good pries and this one came off: Extracting the pins should only take 20 seconds total if done right:

Wire orientation:
NOTICE the wires into the Green Fuel Pump Power are both the same size while the Fuel Sensor Wire has a Large Ground and Small Sender wire to the fuel Sensor. If all four wires need repair, Order 3X 16 - 18 gauge wire connectors and 1X 20 - 22 gauge wire connector. At 30 cents a connector, ORDER EXTRAS in case your crimp fails!

White: Fuel Sensor
Green: Fuel Pump Power
Black Wire is ground for both!

 

[FinalImpact]

More links and info for parts sources here: Fuel Pump Connector Repair Information and links

Electrical Section has more links too!

 

[FinalImpact]

[MENTION=28133]Topher[/MENTION] you get this fixed?

 

[Topher]

[MENTION=28133]Topher[/MENTION] you get this fixed?

Not yet I'm going to try tomorrow I was wondering where you get the pics are those Automotive or something else

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

We're you able to get the old metal connector out of the plastic connector?

 

[FinalImpact]

Not yet I'm going to try tomorrow I was wondering where you get the pics are those Automotive or something else

A deceased FZ devoted its neuro structure to science aka me!! Not free mind you but it has helped solve a couple of mysteries! Now if I just had the rest of the parts I could conduct my experiment! Blah

So no, not automotive! An actual FZ6! :rockon:

 

[Topher]

A deceased FZ devoted its neuro structure to science aka me!! Not free mind you but it has helped solve a couple of mysteries! Now if I just had the rest of the parts I could conduct my experiment! Blah

So no, not automotive! An actual FZ6! :rockon:

Okay fair enough I deserve that one don't repost from a phone I was actually talking about the tools the picks you were using is that something I can get at a local auto parts store or are those like Jewelers tools

 

[FinalImpact]

Snap-On picks in photo. Could be just about anything though....

You will need a proper crimper tho. The most expensive part of the deal, but still cheap really.
Amazon, Grainger, NewEgg, Digikey are all good sources once you know the type of connector you are crimping.

 

[Topher]

So the wire came outside of the crimping on the plug is there a way to open that and get the wire back in there or do I just need to order new plugs

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So the wire came outside of the crimping on the plug is there a way to open that and get the wire back in there or do I just need to order new plugs

If your real careful and PATIENT, with some very small screw drivers, you should be able to open the crimp up.

Re-strip the wire and re-install. I'm not EXACTLY of the clip end you have, but soldering (if possible) may not hurt either.

The links posted above, were so you could order that metal end new... Yamaha doesn't sell it or the end separate, just the wiring harness..

 

[Topher]

So here is what I have now plus a stripped wire and one with a plug still attached. Can you order any of these parts?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

View attachment 67543

So here is what I have now plus a stripped wire and one with a plug still attached. Can you order any of these parts?

It looks like that blue part was torn out, is that correct?

The metal part, closest to where it clips in is what I referred to, to GENTLY open up and put your existing wire back in.


Your going to have to contact that parts link I posted earlier and see if they have it... Yamaha won't carry it..

Or find a bike being parted out and buy the connector / wires and tie into your harness...

 

[FinalImpact]

More links and info for parts sources here: Fuel Pump Connector Repair Information and links

Electrical Section has more links too!

Follow the link!!! ^^^^^ it leads you here and parts are cheap to make a proper repair! Look at the bottom here! Everything you need to know!

A quick How To Repair damaged Fuel Pump power and Fuel Sender wires. See link at the bottom and order the connectors $1.20 for all four connectors. You can also order the whole connector. Wire gauge size is different from Sender to Power so get the right ones. You will need the proper crimp tool too. I would not solder as the vibrations can crack a solder joint.

You need two picks with a fine point. Sharper than these would be best: Pencil is for size reference.
The protrusion from the blue locks are fillers that keep the connectors locked in the housing. Remove the blue locks to Remove the metal connectors!

Insert pick here, a curved one works best: Pry on both sides, but over the alignment groove offers best angle/fit. Pop the connector off.

Once the blue lock is removed a straight pick can be used to release the lock on the individual wires:
The blue arrow is the lock on our connector. Use the pick to get under the tab and lift in the direction of the red arrow. DO NOT pull on the wire until the tab lifts. Apply gentle pry force, then a gentle pull on the wire. If it does not come free, push it back in as you may have bound them already.
**Pulling without release only binds it making it impossible to remove, push the wire back in, lift the tab, pull the wire.

If your wires are pulled from the metal connector, you will need a small paper clip or something to insert and push the connector our of the plastic housing.

Here is the stock connector in good shape:
It should only fit back in from one direction. Locking is achieved when the rectangle is fully seated into the housing. The wire crimp retention goes opposite the tang in the connector that locks it in place. Then the blue lock holds the assembly together.
SIZE: Externally the connector is 3.00 mm X 2.30 mm Total length is 18 mm it takes a special crimp tool to make that crimp!

As you can see here, a dull pick slipped and tore up this lock. It is still usable.

Two good pries and this one came off: Extracting the pins should only take 20 seconds total if done right:

Wire orientation:
NOTICE the wires into the Green Fuel Pump Power are both the same size while the Fuel Sensor Wire has a Large Ground and Small Sender wire to the fuel Sensor. If all four wires need repair, Order 3X 16 - 18 gauge wire connectors and 1X 20 - 22 gauge wire connector. At 30 cents a connector, ORDER EXTRAS in case your crimp fails!

White: Fuel Sensor
Green: Fuel Pump Power
Black Wire is ground for both!

THE REPAIR:

• Before stripping and crimping your wire, insert the weatherproof rubber grommet onto the wire.
• Strip the wire just enough to engage the crimp area of the connector. Try not to damage wire strands.
• Crimp Wire using the crimp tool below. NOTE: wire gauge for the BLACK GROUND WIRE is the SAME for both connectors while the Sender wire is only 22 gauge. Pull firmly on wire and connector. It should not pull off with mild force. Do not solder as this will make the wire brittle and cause it to crack and fail.
• Push grommet onto connector and fold over the remaining tabs. See picture above of wire.
• Insert connector into socket. The Wire Crimp lead of the connector goes opposite the lock in the connector.
• Repeat for other wire.
• Insert blue lock. It should click and stay in place.
• Done

Order parts from here:
FUEL TANK CONNECTOR REPAIR KIT:
SIZE: Externally the connector is 3.02 mm X 2.33 mm Total length is 18 mm it takes a special crimp tool to make that crimp!

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » HX Sealed Female Terminal for 2 way Sumitomo Honda Injector Connector ( 22 - 20 AWG ) << Sensor One Side

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » Sumitomo DL / SL Sealed Series Female terminal 18 - 16 AWG Terminal, loose piece << Fuel pump X 3 for repair of all 4 wires being pulled.


PS - Search for "Sumitomo connector" and you may find other sources.

Here is the whole connector. Not sure which though Power or Sendor.
2-Way Receptacle Kit

OEM Connectors for ECU, LAMPS, SENSORS, PLUGINS OF ALL KINDS, plus heat shrink and strain relief.
*** LOOK HERE ***
Corsa-technic.com - Motorcycle Specific Parts!

and the pins:
2-Way Receptacle Kit

The Crimp tool need for this repair:
http://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=369&category_id=86
*********************************************
Another Source
Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories