Awesome. I use 91/93 always (I'm a fan of Mobile and Shell). I've never had any issues with the bike stock so hopefully I don't run into any after a small advance. When I've got the bike apart this winter, I might put some insulation on the airbox. I've used aluminum-backed air duct insulation for cold temperatures before, but I imagine it will also work for higher temperature settings.
Cruise till parked.
I don't think you'll find some carbon layer in this engine... No way.
I suspect most of it is how I ride. I add little throttle during take off, barely raising it off idle during clutch engagement. I only slip it when there's a need for it.
Key point; Details matter and the required maintenance just made it that much smoother. The only vibes I feel are the tires on the road and what I found amazing was that after the valve lash adjustment, not only is another layer of vibes gone, but it also helped the throttle chop and throttle response. Both are improved upon. Also note that backfire pops are reduced and it sounds less raspy in person.
I do have to admit that the CO adjustment is too much at idle as I can't lean it out enough and to keep the RPM at 1100 w/out a little variation as its simply too rich.
- TB sync screws (X4) are backed out nearly as far as they go.
- Main idle speed screw back out, barely raises it to 1100 rpm.
- Plus its still running rich, hence the uneven idle.
- The perk is that it pulls off the line and has damn good Throttle response!
- Take note how crisp and smooth it sounds. Its just better....
I'm happy, although I still want more torque! :spank:
Some samples via MP3... Notice Tick is gone from valve adjust.
0:00 - 1:30 = warm start and warm up
3:15 = pull from 4500 to 12K ** Throttle response **is the best its ever been!
4:00 = hail storm trashes road!
7:10 - foot slipped, double clutch
7:20 = Walk around - tick is gone!
CLICK --> Soundcloud MP3 After Valve Adj
Bottom line: these engines CAN be very smooth and vibration free!!!
For all the tickers out there, adjust your valves - not CCT.
Fix the plug caps
General tune up
- Advance timing, add fuel, and maybe that test pipe. :thumbup:
opcorn:
These posts right here are why I subscribe to your threads. Very informative, and it helps me to know the do's and dont's when it comes to my bike!Details eh??? :sinister:
- 2 Bros have the XP1 tips in.
- The phone mutes loud sounds and wind noise so it never sounds as loud as it is. Although because its not obnoxious during playback, somehow it doesn't sound like its pulling full RPM but it may be! Perhaps I need to bounce it off the Rev limiter so you know its at 14.8K! :shakehead: Blah
I've done one TB sync where I fiddled but have only verified it a couple times since and it remains spot on balanced across all 4. But that doesn't mean it idles proper. Keep reading for the fix!
The last time I messed with the CO adjust here is what I did:
It had about 400 rpm deviation in idle RPM and as you can hear part of its still there but not as bad. Tach is ~1100 RPM +/-50.
The FIX:
- I turned out all 4 Sync screws in 1/2 turn increments CCW to -1.5 turns out and as expected the idle climbs and climbs to roughly 1500 rpm. It does this because its fat rich (fixed injector rates) and giving it more air leans it out which raises the RPM.
- At 1500 R's I backed out the idle screw (CCW) to see how low it would idle before the screw had no effect. I don't recall the ## but I'd guess about 2 turns out and the idle was at 1000 RPM while temps were 205 - 212.
- turning the screw in would raise the idle 100 RPM so I left it there as it had some control. Not much but "some". It must have control or the cold idle circuit won't work.
Yes, I dinked with #1 because I needed to maintain the same flow through all ports or the idle would never be balanced in smoothness or vacuum across the 4 ports/cylinders. Why: because the CO1 is at 38 its running fat down low. The injector duty cycle has been increased so it needs more air to idle smooth.
- I gave it more air!
Logic: it pulls really good off idle with more fuel added. A trade off is I ran it up so far that it impacts idle quality but I don't really care as I don't idle across town and it and it doesn't die or run so bad as too quit running when coming down from RPM. I tried higher CO numbers but then the idle is out of control beyond what I can accept OR adjust out of it to make it what it is. Curse me for I have sinned and messed with #1 sync screw!
But, in return I have this (well combined with other stuff mentioned in this thread).
Let me know if you have any questions.... Also its been educational to me!
- improved throttle response
- off - on throttle transition has no lag, no throttle chop that I can feel
- it pulls hard
- it starts easy
- currently its vibration free. ALL I feel in the bars is the road below me! [emoji106]
- it pulls the nose up in second
- it sounds pretty fair.... Most would not expect its a Fizzer!
Once jobless, I may hook up and an O'scope and see if CO1 vs CO2 changes apply to 1&4 AND 2&3 or if its TPS dependent like the R6. Mind you the R6 has 4 adjustments which play against the whole TPS Range for fueling. Well, if you have the proper ECM! That said, I still don't see how OUR C1 vs C2 would be used to set fuel across 4 cylinders. It only has ONE SNIFFER and one mutual exhaust outlet. So if this is true, it makes it hard to tell which group of cylinders is rich or lean from hydrocarbon output perspective. I must know and I'll look but I have some other things to do in the mean time.
For kicks and grins: R6 Race Parts from Yama offer this!
Fuel injection amount can be adjusted in the following four ranges:
#4 Has a cool note: "This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle."
- Code C1: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed
- Code C2: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine speed
- Code C3: Fuel amount injected at 25% to 90% of throttle opening
- Code C4: Fuel amount injected at 90% or more of throttle opening
