Final Impact Winter project; playing w/trigger

[FinalImpact]

On the topic of mods and keeping the bike reliable, throw a ZIPTIE around the caps boot to reduce the strain and keep the vibes from loosening the connection at the wires core to the caps threaded conductor.

See this thread for details.... CLICK IMAGE!!!


A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!!l

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: Final Imppact Winter project; playing w/trigger

I'm getting ready to park the bike for the winter but I wanted to say this is a value added mod and to CAUTION THOSE RUNNING STOCK CR9EK plugs.

To get the most from it and reduce the risk of damage to the bike I would suggest anyone doing this to either A) run the CR9E plug or B) if you run the bike hard, toss in the CR10E OR C) run the CR9EIX. You just don't need the whole plug sticking in the combustion chamber like the stock plug does.

The CR10E (6264) is a colder plug (NGK = higher ## = COLDER HEAT RANGE). I've been running it for the last 2000 miles and they stay clean and seem to reduce detonation on take off from steep hills. So, for how I ride and the little tweaks I've done this is a good match. If someone really wants to look harder they could say the none "K" plugs reduce the C/R slightly and this is true. It is also true of the precious metal plugs...

Compare the nose for exposed area of a stock EK vs E plug:

CR9EK: lots of bare electrode to stay hot in the combustion chamber:
View attachment 55515

CR9E: much less in the chamber
View attachment 55516

CR9EIX:
View attachment 55517

CR10's look basically the same but are colder than the 9's.

***********************
Some NGK PN's
***********************
CR9EK, 4548, As Sold Gap: 0.032"
CR9E, 6263, As Sold Gap: 0.028"
CR10E, 6264, As Sold Gap: 0.028"
CR9EIX, 3521, As Sold Gap:.028" (So it says)...
CR10EIX, 6482, As Sold Gap:.028"
***********************

• For Champion, Autolite and Bosch, the higher the number, the hotter the plug.
• For NGK, Denso and Pulstar, the higher the number, the colder the plug.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Re: Final Imppact Winter project; playing w/trigger

I'm getting ready to park the bike for the winter but I wanted to say this is a value added mod and to CAUTION THOSE RUNNING STOCK CR9EK plugs.

To get the most from it and reduce the risk of damage to the bike I would suggest anyone doing this to either A) run the CR9E plug or B) if you run the bike hard, toss in the CR10E OR C) run the CR9EIX. You just don't need the whole plug sticking in the combustion chamber like the stock plug does.

The CR10E (6264) is a colder plug (NGK = higher ## = COLDER HEAT RANGE). I've been running it for the last 2000 miles and they stay clean and seem to reduce detonation on take off from steep hills. So, for how I ride and the little tweaks I've done this is a good match. If someone really wants to look harder they could say the none "K" plugs reduce the C/R slightly and this is true. It is also true of the precious metal plugs...

Compare the nose for exposed area of a stock EK vs E plug:

CR9EK: lots of bare electrode to stay hot in the combustion chamber:
View attachment 55515

CR9E: much less in the chamber
View attachment 55516

CR9EIX:
View attachment 55517

CR10's look basically the same but are colder than the 9's.

***********************
Some NGK PN's
***********************
CR9EK, 4548, As Sold Gap: 0.032"
CR9E, 6263, As Sold Gap: 0.028"
CR10E, 6264, As Sold Gap: 0.028"
CR9EIX, 3521, As Sold Gap:.028" (So it says)...
CR10EIX, 6482, As Sold Gap:.028"
***********************

• For Champion, Autolite and Bosch, the higher the number, the hotter the plug.
• For NGK, Denso and Pulstar, the higher the number, the colder the plug.

Thanks for the info! I've got CR9EIX plugs waiting at home for the next riding season (and hopefully a timing advance as well!).

 

[FinalImpact]

Exhaust tone after Ignition Advance and De-Cat. Same 2Bro Exhaust, same recording device... Crisis on her way to hibernation/winter rest

SoundCloud MP3 Audio 2014-11

From 2013 --> Two Bro Sound Clip (mp3) from FZ6

Next step - see if ECU unleashed will drop the Group Package price or give out specific details about what they're doing...

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Re: Final Imppact Winter project; playing w/trigger

Quick question. You have mentioned pinging during various starts on hills and such. Is that a result of low quality gas, or does this occur often? I'm very interested in advancing my timing this winter, but I want to go for reliability and minimize adverse effects like pinging. Do you think 3-4° would be a fair compromise between stock timing and too much advance?

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: Final Imppact Winter project; playing w/trigger

I'd say that's fair (4°). Its the result of high load and low RPM ON a HOT engine. Even stock i could induce it during takeoff under some situations and I run brand name gas always. Now its Plus grade 89/90 octane and Super 92/93 when its >85°F as the air box gets heat soaked so easy.. perhaps its time for some insulation!

More than anything I like to tinker so its something to do! :thumbup:

That said, If you're fuel controller allows for temperature compensation you should be golden.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Re: Final Imppact Winter project; playing w/trigger

I'd say that's fair (4°). Its the result of high load and low RPM ON a HOT engine. Even stock i could induce it during takeoff under some situations and I run brand name gas always. Now its Plus grade 89/90 octane and Super 92/93 when its >85°F as the air box gets heat soaked so easy.. perhaps its time for some insulation!

More than anything I like to tinker so its something to do! [emoji106]

That said, If you're fuel controller allows for temperature compensation you should be golden.

Awesome. I use 91/93 always (I'm a fan of Mobile and Shell). I've never had any issues with the bike stock so hopefully I don't run into any after a small advance. When I've got the bike apart this winter, I might put some insulation on the airbox. I've used aluminum-backed air duct insulation for cold temperatures before, but I imagine it will also work for higher temperature settings.

 

[I JET]

Been a while since I checked this thread. Lots of great info, thank you for taking the time to post your results. I will most definitely be doing this mod. We have 98 octane pump fuel here in Aus, so happy days. My bike will need a power commander and custom tuning to suit the cam upgrade. Will be nice to see the power gains. I'm taking the bike to get a baseline power run next week.

EDIT: Big mod session starting in about 2 weeks time.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Final Imppact Winter project; playing w/trigger

Its the result of high load and low RPM ON a HOT engine. Even stock i could induce it during takeoff under some situations and I run brand name gas always. Now its Plus grade 89/90 octane and Super 92/93 when its >85°F as the air box gets heat soaked so easy.. perhaps its time for some insulation!

Just read this and am very surprised...

I run name brand Regular grade fuel. A good part of the year its very warm(hot) and humid down here.

My bike has NEVER had ANY detonation, even hot.

I can shift into 6th at 3,000 RPM (even as low as 2K) nail it, and the bike will simply pull/ accelerate, without issue/complaints, very smooth actually..

I do run RingFree occasionally (in ALL my machines). Perhaps, that's keeping any excess carbon out and the compression to where it should be.

The bottle is expensive however, its mixed at 10 gallons to 1 oz... Well worth the investment IMO. Might be worth a try...

 

[FinalImpact]

Just read this and am very surprised...

I run name brand Regular grade fuel. A good part of the year its very warm(hot) and humid down here.

I don't think you'll find some carbon layer in this engine... No way.

I suspect most of it is how I ride. I add little throttle during take off, barely raising it off idle during clutch engagement. I only slip it when there's a need for it.

Key point; Details matter and the required maintenance just made it that much smoother. The only vibes I feel are the tires on the road and what I found amazing was that after the valve lash adjustment, not only is another layer of vibes gone, but it also helped the throttle chop and throttle response. Both are improved upon. Also note that backfire pops are reduced and it sounds less raspy in person.

I do have to admit that the CO adjustment is too much at idle as I can't lean it out enough and to keep the RPM at 1100 w/out a little variation as its simply too rich.
- TB sync screws (X4) are backed out nearly as far as they go.
- Main idle speed screw effective range is 1000 to 1100, cause its idling off the IACV sync settings.
- Plus its still running rich, hence the uneven idle.
- The perk is that it pulls off the line and has damn good throttle response!
- Take note how crisp and smooth it sounds. Its just better....

I'm happy, although I still want more torque! :spank:

Some audio samples via MP3... Notice Tick is gone from valve adjust.
0:00 - 1:30 = warm start and warm up - no tick!
3:15 = pull from 4500 to 12K ** Throttle response **is the best its ever been!
4:00 = hail storm trashes road! Cruise till parked.
7:10 - foot slipped, double clutch
7:20 = Walk around - tick is gone!
CLICK --> Soundcloud MP3 After Valve Adj

Bottom line: these engines CAN be very smooth and vibration free!!!
For all the tickers out there, adjust your valves - not CCT.
Fix the plug caps
General tune up
- Advance timing, add fuel, and maybe that test pipe. :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't think you'll find some carbon layer in this engine... No way.

I suspect most of it is how I ride. I add little throttle during take off, barely raising it off idle during clutch engagement. I only slip it when there's a need for it.

Key point; Details matter and the required maintenance just made it that much smoother. The only vibes I feel are the tires on the road and what I found amazing was that after the valve lash adjustment, not only is another layer of vibes gone, but it also helped the throttle chop and throttle response. Both are improved upon. Also note that backfire pops are reduced and it sounds less raspy in person.

I do have to admit that the CO adjustment is too much at idle as I can't lean it out enough and to keep the RPM at 1100 w/out a little variation as its simply too rich.
- TB sync screws (X4) are backed out nearly as far as they go.
- Main idle speed screw back out, barely raises it to 1100 rpm.
- Plus its still running rich, hence the uneven idle.
- The perk is that it pulls off the line and has damn good Throttle response!
- Take note how crisp and smooth it sounds. Its just better....

I'm happy, although I still want more torque! :spank:

Some samples via MP3... Notice Tick is gone from valve adjust.
0:00 - 1:30 = warm start and warm up
3:15 = pull from 4500 to 12K ** Throttle response **is the best its ever been!
4:00 = hail storm trashes road! Cruise till parked.
7:10 - foot slipped, double clutch
7:20 = Walk around - tick is gone!
CLICK --> Soundcloud MP3 After Valve Adj

Bottom line: these engines CAN be very smooth and vibration free!!!
For all the tickers out there, adjust your valves - not CCT.
Fix the plug caps
General tune up
- Advance timing, add fuel, and maybe that test pipe. :thumbup:

The idle doesn't sound bad at all warmish. Its way lopier than mine hot.

I don't know where the mic is at, it accelerates hard, but it doesn't sound anywhere close to 12,000 RPM's on the hard launch. Maybe its the pipes or just the mic placement.. Do you have the DB killers in or out?

Just to clarify, you have all the sync screws most of the way out?? Not #1 around 1 turn out or so?

Could it be, on the lower end, with the CO #'s changed (I never changed mine) the sync screws can't adjust?

 

[FinalImpact]

The idle doesn't sound bad at all warmish. Its way lopier than mine hot.

I don't know where the mic is at, it accelerates hard, but it doesn't sound anywhere close to 12,000 RPM's on the hard launch. Maybe its the pipes or just the mic placement.. Do you have the DB killers in or out?

Just to clarify, you have all the sync screws most of the way out?? Not #1 around 1 turn out or so?

Could it be, on the lower end, with the CO #'s changed (I never changed mine) the sync screws can't adjust?

Details eh??? :sinister:
- 2 Bros have the XP1 tips in.
- The phone mutes loud sounds and wind noise so it never sounds as loud as it is. Although because its not obnoxious during playback, somehow it doesn't sound like its pulling full RPM but it may be! Perhaps I need to bounce it off the Rev limiter so you know its at 14.8K! :shakehead: Blah

I've done one TB sync where I fiddled but have only verified it a couple times since and it remains spot on balanced across all 4. But that doesn't mean it idles proper. Keep reading for the fix!

The last time I messed with the CO adjust here is what I did:
It had about 400 rpm deviation in idle RPM and as you can hear part of its still there but not as bad. Tach is ~1100 RPM +/-50.
The FIX:
- I turned out all 4 Sync screws in 1/2 turn increments CCW to -1.5 turns out and as expected the idle climbs and climbs to roughly 1500 rpm. It does this because its fat rich (fixed injector rates) and giving it more air leans it out which raises the RPM.
- At 1500 R's I backed out the idle screw (CCW) to see how low it would idle before the screw had no effect. I don't recall the ## but I'd guess about 2 turns out and the idle was at 1000 RPM while temps were 205 - 212.
- turning the screw in would raise the idle 100 RPM so I left it there as it had some control. Not much but "some". It must have control or the cold idle circuit won't work.

Yes, I dinked with #1 because I needed to maintain the same flow through all ports or the idle would never be balanced in smoothness or vacuum across the 4 ports/cylinders. Why: because the CO1 is at 38 its running fat down low. The injector duty cycle has been increased so it needs more air to idle smooth.
- I gave it more air!

Logic: it pulls really good off idle with more fuel added. A trade off is I ran it up so far that it impacts idle quality but I don't really care as I don't idle across town and it and it doesn't die or run so bad as too quit running when coming down from RPM. I tried higher CO numbers but then the idle is out of control beyond what I can accept OR adjust out of it to make it what it is. Curse me for I have sinned and messed with #1 sync screw! opcorn:

But, in return I have this (well combined with other stuff mentioned in this thread).

• improved throttle response
• off - on throttle transition has no lag, no throttle chop that I can feel
• it pulls hard
• it starts easy
• currently its vibration free. ALL I feel in the bars is the road below me! :thumbup:
• it pulls the nose up in second
• it sounds pretty fair.... Most would not expect its a Fizzer!

Let me know if you have any questions.... Also its been educational to me!

Once jobless, I may hook up and an O'scope and see if CO1 vs CO2 changes apply to 1&4 AND 2&3 or if its TPS dependent like the R6. Mind you the R6 has 4 adjustments which play against the whole TPS Range for fueling. Well, if you have the proper ECM! That said, I still don't see how OUR C1 vs C2 would be used to set fuel across 4 cylinders. It only has ONE SNIFFER and one mutual exhaust outlet. So if this is true, it makes it hard to tell which group of cylinders is rich or lean from hydrocarbon output perspective. I must know and I'll look but I have some other things to do in the mean time.

For kicks and grins: R6 Race Parts from Yama offer this!
Fuel injection amount can be adjusted in the following four ranges:

• Code C1: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed
• Code C2: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine speed
• Code C3: Fuel amount injected at 25% to 90% of throttle opening
• Code C4: Fuel amount injected at 90% or more of throttle opening

#4 Has a cool note: "This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle."

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Details eh??? :sinister:
- 2 Bros have the XP1 tips in.
- The phone mutes loud sounds and wind noise so it never sounds as loud as it is. Although because its not obnoxious during playback, somehow it doesn't sound like its pulling full RPM but it may be! Perhaps I need to bounce it off the Rev limiter so you know its at 14.8K! :shakehead: Blah

I've done one TB sync where I fiddled but have only verified it a couple times since and it remains spot on balanced across all 4. But that doesn't mean it idles proper. Keep reading for the fix!

The last time I messed with the CO adjust here is what I did:
It had about 400 rpm deviation in idle RPM and as you can hear part of its still there but not as bad. Tach is ~1100 RPM +/-50.
The FIX:
- I turned out all 4 Sync screws in 1/2 turn increments CCW to -1.5 turns out and as expected the idle climbs and climbs to roughly 1500 rpm. It does this because its fat rich (fixed injector rates) and giving it more air leans it out which raises the RPM.
- At 1500 R's I backed out the idle screw (CCW) to see how low it would idle before the screw had no effect. I don't recall the ## but I'd guess about 2 turns out and the idle was at 1000 RPM while temps were 205 - 212.
- turning the screw in would raise the idle 100 RPM so I left it there as it had some control. Not much but "some". It must have control or the cold idle circuit won't work.

Yes, I dinked with #1 because I needed to maintain the same flow through all ports or the idle would never be balanced in smoothness or vacuum across the 4 ports/cylinders. Why: because the CO1 is at 38 its running fat down low. The injector duty cycle has been increased so it needs more air to idle smooth.
- I gave it more air!

Logic: it pulls really good off idle with more fuel added. A trade off is I ran it up so far that it impacts idle quality but I don't really care as I don't idle across town and it and it doesn't die or run so bad as too quit running when coming down from RPM. I tried higher CO numbers but then the idle is out of control beyond what I can accept OR adjust out of it to make it what it is. Curse me for I have sinned and messed with #1 sync screw! opcorn:

But, in return I have this (well combined with other stuff mentioned in this thread).

• improved throttle response
• off - on throttle transition has no lag, no throttle chop that I can feel
• it pulls hard
• it starts easy
• currently its vibration free. ALL I feel in the bars is the road below me! [emoji106]
• it pulls the nose up in second
• it sounds pretty fair.... Most would not expect its a Fizzer!

Let me know if you have any questions.... Also its been educational to me!

Once jobless, I may hook up and an O'scope and see if CO1 vs CO2 changes apply to 1&4 AND 2&3 or if its TPS dependent like the R6. Mind you the R6 has 4 adjustments which play against the whole TPS Range for fueling. Well, if you have the proper ECM! That said, I still don't see how OUR C1 vs C2 would be used to set fuel across 4 cylinders. It only has ONE SNIFFER and one mutual exhaust outlet. So if this is true, it makes it hard to tell which group of cylinders is rich or lean from hydrocarbon output perspective. I must know and I'll look but I have some other things to do in the mean time.

For kicks and grins: R6 Race Parts from Yama offer this!
Fuel injection amount can be adjusted in the following four ranges:

• Code C1: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed
• Code C2: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine speed
• Code C3: Fuel amount injected at 25% to 90% of throttle opening
• Code C4: Fuel amount injected at 90% or more of throttle opening

#4 Has a cool note: "This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle."

These posts right here are why I subscribe to your threads. Very informative, and it helps me to know the do's and dont's when it comes to my bike!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

An interesting read from Sportbikes re the CO settings, pretty informative as well IMO.

CO Adjustment (Explaination) and other ECU Fun - Sportbikes.net

 

[FinalImpact]

Thanks for the link!! ^^

I'm not sure why I'm bitting but here goes! 2/3 of the info goes back to the R6 which beats to a different drummer. The ECMs have a whole different outlook on life! The YEC race parts for the R6 offer ignition and fueling adjustment right through the gauge and it covers the info I hinted at above.

The FZ not being race inspired didn't get those options. That said, I have a very hard time believing C1 = Cylinders 1&4 and C2 = 2&3 on our bikes OTHER than the EARLY FSM VAGUELY introduces the concept.
But mine were both Zero so I moved them equally and the @ss dyno indicates change in a favorable manor! :thumbup: Very well thought out decision there eh?

As stated; with an oscilloscope I CAN PROVE or DISPROVE its impact at idle because I can watch the injector duty cycle (pulse width = time 12v is applied to injector)and compare the pulse width of the two sets. However, without a load like a dyno, I have no means of verifying much off idle and static rev's impose no load so the data is useless.

** WHAT IS MISLEADING IS THIS ** If one set of cylinders is lean its going to drop vacuum because the engine is unsteady. What does the ECM do when the Vacuum drops? It very likely adds fuel. So, one has to keep this in mind and RPM as it will change it. Well unless I fake it out with my DeWalt giving it a fixed RPM regardless of C#!!! haha!

Plausible vs not plausible or Pros vs Cons:
- C1 and C2 as they apply to the FZ.

PRO - I suppose yamaha could fit custom headers to each bike, start them tune them and test emissions per cylinder. Set the C values per cylinder group. Seems very unlikely...

CON - the wild disparity seen between C1 and C2 settings. Meaning, how could the fueling be so different between engines fed from the same fuel rail on the same pressure. Injector open time determines AFR going in. In simple terms its the time the injectors are firing or the duty cycle.
CON - if 1&4 and 2&3 have such wild variance like -20 and +7, how is that it even runs smooth at all?
- Compression isn't that different from hole to hole
- Valve timing isn't that different from hole to hole
- Ignition timing isn't that different from hole to hole
- Air volume isn't that different from hole to hole
- So why adjust in groups if there is that much difference vs individuals? ** We know physically ** its batched and grouped so it cannot be done per cylinder. But if such huge variance exists from group to group why would it not exist from hole to hole???

PRO - it just doesn't make sense that a different header is used to tune the bike.
However, it is possible a computer tunes it. They could run each C value up and down monitor the hydrocarbons, determine some value and then do it to the other group. Take the two different values and normalize them somehow. I'm having very hard time accepting this tho.

PRO - the Fuel pressure regulator is wild card variation from bike to bike. Fuel pressure and injector open time determine how much fuel is injected over time. That stamped steel PR with a spring basic could create a fair variance from bike to bike. This could change the fuel curve needed to maintain stoichiometric fueling from bike to bike. With this line of thinking, C1 and C2 are not applied in batch but as a load increases on the tread mill and it could go down something like the R6 notes above????
- CON - Early FSM print showing C1 = 1&4 and C2 = 2&3
- Something else, S2s having O2 sensor. Is it simply offsetting what the ECM sees from the sensor?

My best guess is one is for idle and the other up to to 5K but I don't know.
I found NO ONE blew up their engine, so I tried it.
I know increasing it adds fuel as it richens the mix. Verified as the RPM goes up when I add more air!


Cliff, you have any thoughts about this? [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]
Chance, take a look at the YEC R6 info here, it has some interesting info in it. Including some BS that says our forks also came equipped with Ohlins cartridges. [MENTION=25723]ChanceCoats123[/MENTION] >>Click -- get this--> Read me


Borrowed from the webs...

Think of the top as low RPM, middle as 45% throttle, and bottom as WOT. So, in terms of idle and group1 vs group2, if C1 is compared to C2 the period of time will be different if these relate to the two groups as portrayed in the early FSM. i.e. while looking at 2 channel O'scope...
Pic Borrowed from the webs...

That is, a scope having 2 channels will be watching group1 and group2, In the ideal world the pulsewidth will be the same. If group control offers changes, the pulse width difference can be measured using a scope.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your welcome for the link.

I can say, from the FJR forum, the CO settings (from the factory)are different on just about every bike and every cylinder.

I know from experiance, my old 04 FJR was extremly lean at 3k. It literally had a lean surge holding steady at 3k most of the time. I wasn't comfortable hot wiring and getting into the CO settings and never messed with it. In the US, just like the FZ, we're locked out, short of the ground jumper to adjust it. As I re-call, you could adjust the CO settings on each cylinder, 4 separate TB's with butterfly sync screws between the TB's...

Back then, the fix (it was common for the "leaness" on the bike) was to adjust the CO settings slightly richer. The Gen I's put out a lot of heat and the CO change did help some with the engine heat and eliminated the surge..

It was also important to document the stock factory settings before changing any CO #'s. Just to have a baseline to go back to or start from scratch if need be..

How Yamaha came up with the CO #'s, per each engine, I don't know...

 

[Motogiro]

In regard to pulse width on group 1 and group 2, I am limited on a conclusion of what that wave form is actually representing. I remember years ago when getting the FZ6 out in the twisties and riding it very aggressively. It seemed to almost change how it behaved. Like a different map was running the bike. Was I imagining this? This was pre PClll and being dyno'd.
I think waveform character on triggering can be misunderstood if we don't consider what the ECU is calculating after adding all the other data the sensors are sending to the ECU. I think the secret is in the code.

An example might be, how many times a set of data values versus time.

 

[FinalImpact]

Pic was simply to represent injector pulse width if one was looking. Idle vs WOT.

I'm going to attach an O'scope to:
Injector group 1&4
Injector group 2&3
? Maybe trigger from Cyl # 1 ignition coil input?

Goal: Measure pulse width / injection duration at idle of both groups. THEN - Change the C2 value and see if pulse width changes between the two groups.

This will remove some doubt about what everyone thinks it does. As stated, I can't ride and read O'scope so anything off idle is out of scope and I can't test it. Best I can do there is monitor the O2 sensor output voltage.

Again, If I had to guess, I would bet the C# settings offset what the S2 model O2 sensor reports to the ECM when running Closed loop.
- Example: C1=0, C2=0
- O2 sensor maintains 14.7:1 AFR.

Perhaps offsetting the C#'s offsets what the ECM does with the O2 Sensor data?? So instead of maintaining 14.7:1 it maintains 14.0:1 ?? IDK! Just thinking outloud.

In the Cage world, conditions like WOT throws the ECM into OPEN LOOP where it ignores data from the O2 sensors and runs off a map (usually richer for more HP). Which is somewhat like cold start up where they run open loop cold start map as the sensors need to warm up to 600°C before they report data.

This could be monitored On The Fly from O2 sensor:
1.0 - 0.97V - 12.1:1
0.88V - 12.7:1
0.78V - 13.2:1
0.69V - 13.8:1
0.59V - 14.4:1
0.56V - 14.8:1
0.54V - 15.2:1
0.39V - 15.4:1
0.30V - 16.0:1
0.20V - 16.5:1
0.10V - 17.1:1

The issue here is repeating the same conditions so you compare apples to apples. Example might be to compare 3000 RPM, 3rd gear, flat land, << CHANGE C#s>> Repeat -> 3000 RPM, 3rd gear, flat land.

 

[Motogiro]

Understand on the injector pulse width.

I would guess the open loop O2 sensor behavior would be the same for the bikes as cars and as you say it would be hard to see scope values without treadmill.

Hmmmm.... Data Logger O'scope

 

[FinalImpact]

A day of tinkering. I set out to solve the debate of CO (C1 vs C2) changing the AFR adjustment per "batch Fire" or a Range of RPM? Although the FSM calls it "Adjusting the Exhaust Gas Volume" and indicates its 1&4 and 2&3 which are being adjusted.

In short the plan is simple; Compare the pulse width of the Injector sets: 1&4 to 2&3 and then change the CO value enough to see what it does at idle.

- My cheater method was this; Disconnect the injector plug and add two MOD wires (32 gauge wire w/teflon insulation) to allow me to connect to the oscilloscope. I had to remove the female plug from the connector, wrap wire around them and then insert the plug back into the socket with the wire hanging out (Can't back probe a waterproof seal).
- Connect each injector to one channel on a four channel scope and fire off the bike. One issue was NOT having matching scope probes. But I don't think it effects this.

As the FSM indicates - it changes the pulse width at idle and likely to some value higher up the RPM scale (don't know where it stops) because, without a treadmill (load) I wasn't going to tach-out the bike out in the garage. Point: static rev's without load take little fuel so measuring the pulse width would be harder as the RPM goes up.

I tried idle, 3K, and 6K.
Idle and 3K showed matching pulse widths with CO set the same. From my last bit of tinkering both C1/C2 were at 35.

Things to Keep in Mind with what you see here:

• The injectors have +12V, battery voltage to one side of inj's at all times when running.
• When injections occurs, the ECM shorts its output to ground (the one I'm measuring from).
• This is Batch Fire; injection rate is ~1/2 the time per stroke as its not limited to firing ONLY on the intake stroke of the cylinder to be fired. This is speculation on my part, but I'd guess it must be 1/2?? no proof.

C2 Set to Zero (C1 @35):

In this photo: C1 (1&4) = 35, C2 (2&3) = 0
You can see the Width of the blue "bottom pulse" is much less than the "yellow" C1 pulse. So its true, lower CX values, reduce the pulse width on a given channel (C1 vs C2)!

For those of you who caught on and see that we only have 6+Volts showing and NOT 13.XX, well thats on me. In this case the voltage reads 1/2 what it should do to setup error and I was really only concerned about the pulse width and not the amplitude. The scope was set for a 1X probe but the RED probe was fixed probe at 10X. It forced me to set the adjustable probe to 10X so the signals match, but I left the O'scope thinking the probes used were 1X so the voltage is misreported.

What doesn't make sense to me is why its not at battery voltage while the bike is at idle. The ECM clamps the output to ground dragging the battery voltage with it (shorting the coil, turning it into a magnet). That is not what I expected to see. I expected to see 12+ Volts until the signal clamped to ground. But its low all the time at idle. Oh Cliff.....

Bike being tortured:

Final Resting place of C1/C2 so Fuel controller can be installed. Hint - AS FOUND, the bike was C1 = 0, C2 = 0.

RPM is 3K, settings are 28/28:

This is NO LOAD, but at 3K the injector has 36 PSI and is open for 2.0ms (X2 I think) so roughly ~4.0ms...

So, I don't know why or how they perform their OEM setup. The inner cylinders are known to run warmer than the outers; so perhaps to reduce detonation and balance them out it makes sense to add a bit more fuel to 2&3, but mine were factory set at ZERO/ZERO.

Anyway - I was in a hurry and didn't prepare a better plan of "what data to gather" I saw what the FSM says and just let it go at that. I do wish I knew just how far up the RPM scale it continues to add fuel for the difference. Seat of the pants says those higher #'s upwards of 30+ help it to 6K or so. But I have no proof.
A fuel controller is being added and I needed to get ride of the lope in the idle (too rich and I can't back the Sync screws out any more). Anyway, the Fuel controller begins its map at 3K unless you manually add fuel lower, so thats why I'm fixing this now.
1) Restore proper idle
2) Sync it
3) Install Fuel controller
4) Build map and run it
- That's the plan.