EBC Sintered Double-H Brake Pads –Too good and not allowing the triggering of the brake switch?

summerb37

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Recently, I had my tires changed. During the tire change, I learned that my front brake pads were worn and required changing. So, I ordered the EBC Sintered Double-H Brake Pads. Anyway, I found with the OEM pads that I had to squeeze really hard for them to really grip, and I was hoping that the EBC would grip a lot better, with less effort. With the help of a friend, we changed the pads, and I noticed a big difference in stopping with the EBC Sintered Double-H Brake Pads installed. I hardly have to squeeze the front brake lever for stopping in a timely manner and/or slowing down. I am really happy with their efficiency.

I didn’t think anything else about it until a few days ago when I noticed my brake lights not being activated because I don’t have to squeeze the front brake lever that hard for my bike to come to a stop in a typical stopping time. In other words, I have learned that the amount that I have to squeeze the brake lever for my bike to stop or slow down in city/road driving is not activating the brake lights. I would have to squeeze the front brake lever as I would with the OEM brake pads for the brake lights to be activated, but that would result in me locking up my front tire and/or causing me to come to a really abrupt stop with the new EBC pads. I am wondering if anyone has experienced this phenomenon. In addition, I am wondering if anyone knows if I can adjust the switch on the front brake lever so that it is more sensitive and triggers easier so that my brake lights are activated without squeezing the lever hard.

Thanks
 

FinalImpact

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Been there.... its not easily fixed.
43436d1341205573-front-brake-light-activation-anyone-modify-nub-pic-dsc_5219-microswitch0-jpg


I tried putting a cap over the nub to start the action sooner, but it has to push into the housing IIRC. Its been there a couple years now.


Also, i think that section of the lever is triangle shape. I tried putting a thin SS strip around it, had to leave on a ride and honestly never got back to it. But ya, same issue. Brakes brake and light remains off until you grab a good handful.
So I dual brake. Should look at it again.... Tks for the reminder!
 

ChanceCoats123

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Yup, dual braking would be my piece of advice. You probably won't trigger the front switch for a while if those pads are much thicker than the ones they replaced. So to trigger the brake light, just lightly use the rear brake.

If I ever sit in traffic, I usually put my left foot down anyway and put my right foot on the rear brake so cars behind me are aware of the motorcycle in front of them.
 

VEGASRIDER

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In my opinion, having front brakes that engage too quickly or is that sensitive without an opportunity to progressively squeeze your lever is not good. To me, it would be much more difficult to achieve maximum braking and you would have a much greater chance locking your brakes resulting in a possible low side. Brakes that sensitive doesn't allow you to develop muscle memory which is a key factor in stopping successfully in an emergency situation.
 

2007Z6ALL-LED

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In my opinion, having front brakes that engage too quickly or is that sensitive without an opportunity to progressively squeeze your lever is not good. To me, it would be much more difficult to achieve maximum braking and you would have a much greater chance locking your brakes resulting in a possible low side. Brakes that sensitive doesn't allow you to develop muscle memory which is a key factor in stopping successfully in an emergency situation.

Agreed! that was why I went to OEM. OEM will last longer than the EBC ones. Other than that it's up to personal riding reference to choose which pads should go with.

Like mine, I thought my pads were due when having 13K, so I bought the OEM pads. Turned out, there's been at least 1/2 pad there to burn to. It was 13K for 2007 (which was 9k when I bought it). At 18K as I just checked last week, it seems still 1/2 there. I ride mostly for commute (gliding on fw through traffic 105/405..) and that might be why mine's still last for a while (I bought OEM pads for 6 months and yet used them!)

Happy riding, please ride safe!
 

FinalImpact

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∆∆ Even on stock pads the bike is slowing substantially before light is activated. Its not as big of pad issue as it is an inability to adjust it properly.

I bet if more people check and report, it will show to be a greater issue and not just about pads but levers too.

FWIW calipers really don't care about pad thickness as they really do self adjust to the distance to the rotor unless the pads are so thick it bottoms the pistons. Then it sticks the brakes on or bends the rotor.
 

summerb37

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Thank you all for your feedback. It is good to hear the outcome of the EBC front pad installation is not isolated to my experience only. In my humble opinion though, I feel it is unfortunate that the installation of the pads result in not activating the brake light under normal braking conditions.

Prior to the installation of the EBC pads, I would get lazy and only use my front brake when there wasn't a need for stopping quickly or aggressively. Sometimes, I would only use the back brake too. Since realizing the brake light isn't being activated by the front brakes when applied under normal braking, I have changed to double braking--as others have suggest.

Thanks
 

VEGASRIDER

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I know this hard to believe, but I'm still on my original front brake pads. I have my pads checked every time my tire is changed, and every time the person installing them said I have plenty of life.
 

Marthy

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In my opinion, having front brakes that engage too quickly or is that sensitive without an opportunity to progressively squeeze your lever is not good. To me, it would be much more difficult to achieve maximum braking and you would have a much greater chance locking your brakes resulting in a possible low side. Brakes that sensitive doesn't allow you to develop muscle memory which is a key factor in stopping successfully in an emergency situation.
I got into that issue on my ride (fz09) When i upgrade to the 320mm rotors I kept the HH pads.
1. Way too much initial bite, hard to modulate
2. I junk them on my track day... got too hot

I upgraded to the Pro HH pads. Much better. Lots of braking powwa but less initial bite since the pads operate at a higher temperature.
 
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