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Dropped my gauge cluster

BlakeAllan

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SO i was working on mounting my speedo on my fz6 since its naked now. Sure enough i dropped it and now when i plug it in it goes crazy. Can i run without it for awhile or is it necessary? Also how could i go about fixing it? It looks like it would be hard to open up. Im just not wanting to spend hundreds of dollars on buying one.

Thanks in advance
 
Damn, that sucks! I'm sorry to hear it.

The bike should run fine without the cluster. So yes, you can ride it without it, but I don't recommend doing it for very long (not sure what the laws are on that sort of thing).

As far as fixing it goes, I haven't a clue. A new one runs somewhere in the $350 range and your mileage is stored in the gauge cluster (not in the ECU), so if you got another set of gauges, your mileage wouldn't be correct.

I'd try taking it in to a dealer and have them take a look at it. Maybe they've seen this before and could fix it, but if the cost is anywhere near what a new or aftermarket cluster would cost, I'd just go with a new one and eat the mileage.
 
SO i was working on mounting my speedo on my fz6 since its naked now. Sure enough i dropped it and now when i plug it in it goes crazy. Can i run without it for awhile or is it necessary? Also how could i go about fixing it? It looks like it would be hard to open up. Im just not wanting to spend hundreds of dollars on buying one.

Thanks in advance

Sorry to say this but you can throw that gauge away. I mean put it aside if you ever want to open it up one day to read your mileage. The plastic is glued/welded shut. I opened mine up with a heat gun and a saw. Fixed it to some level by taping it down etc. I was getting a correct fuel reading out of it until the screen died completely on my way to MotoGP one year. The good thing is, the signals, high beam, neutral light and oil light doesn't get affected by the screen dying. The speedo has a glass, sitting on a conducting plate that sits on a circuit board and once the pressure between the glass and the conductor gets messed up, the whole display goes crazy. I would be surprised if the dealer can fix it too. Since they would also have to break/cut/melt it to open it up. Maybe they can fix it and put a new plastic body on it but I really doubt it. And if you going to pay for that service + parts, you might as well invest in a new one IMO. Look out for a used one on the forums, ebay etc. You can get one under 200$ that way. Good luck.
 
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Sorry to say this but you can throw that gauge away. I mean put it aside if you ever want to open it up one day to read your mileage. The plastic is glued/welded shut. I opened mine up with a heat gun and a saw. Fixed it to some level by taping it down etc. I was getting a correct fuel reading out of it until the screen died completely on my way to MotoGP one year. The good thing is, the signals, high beam, neutral light and oil light doesn't get affected by the screen dying. The speedo has a glass, sitting on a conducting plate that sits on a circuit board and once the pressure between the glass and the conductor gets messed up, the whole display goes crazy. I would be surprised if the dealer can fix it too. Since they would also have to break/cut/melt it to open it up. Maybe they can fix it and put a new plastic body on it but I really doubt it. And if you going to pay for that service + parts, you might as well invest in a new one IMO. Look out for a used one on the forums, ebay etc. You can get one under 200$ that way. Good luck.


So how exactly did you fix the internal problem? pushing the plates together?
 
So how exactly did you fix the internal problem? pushing the plates together?

I wouldnt really say I fixed anything. And I dont recommend you do this at all unless you want to read your mileage and then forget about the speedo.

Once I stripped it down to the circuit board, I noticed that there are these metal tabs that go thru the holes on the circuit board and bend 90 degrees. So I hit/bent those metal tabs inwards more to increase the pressure between the c board and the glass. Which helped initially. Then I tightly wrapped the whole thing with duct tape and then covered it with black tape and everything worked for few months after that. It was flickering here and there but I could read the necessary stuff. Eventually, the screen died. I opened it up to re-tighten but that didnt do anything.
 
So are you saying everything in the pod works except the LCD screen makes weird symbols and doesn't display all the characters?

LCD's us very low current and lots fine conductive rubber isolators. Shock misaligns the conductive pads from the printed circuit board assembly (PCBA) and then nothing is displayed right.

So what DOES work and what does not work?

Cause if its just the lcd I'd crack it open and make a good solid attempt at pulling the LCD away and re-seating it on the pads.

Because its sonic welded at the seems (case) I doubt they used many screws inside (Can someone chime in on this?) and it likely has snap latches that are pretty much meant for a one time assembly process (not serviceable).

But with patience, these can be taken apart and reassembled.
If you can't find one on fleebay, PM me I'll give it shot and document it.
 
So are you saying everything in the pod works except the LCD screen makes weird symbols and doesn't display all the characters?

LCD's us very low current and lots fine conductive rubber isolators. Shock misaligns the conductive pads from the printed circuit board assembly (PCBA) and then nothing is displayed right.

So what DOES work and what does not work?

Cause if its just the lcd I'd crack it open and make a good solid attempt at pulling the LCD away and re-seating it on the pads.

Because its sonic welded at the seems (case) I doubt they used many screws inside (Can someone chime in on this?) and it likely has snap latches that are pretty much meant for a one time assembly process (not serviceable).

But with patience, these can be taken apart and reassembled.
If you can't find one on fleebay, PM me I'll give it shot and document it.


The lights on the side such as the neutral and oil light work but the lcd part displays a few things correctly but most of it is a jumble of lights. I will try opening it up tommorow and document what i find. Thanks for all the help.
 
Well, now you have the perfect excuse to get an aftermarket cluster of your choosing(tell the wifey the cat/dog/random animal knocked it over or something)! Koso makes some nice gauges. :D
 
I am trying to keep it cheap since i will be selling the bike soon. How would this work?

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-Speedo-Indicator-Light/dp/B000GZVHH4/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5]Amazon.com: Bikers Choice Mini Speedo With LED Indicator Light - 2:1 Drive Ratio 76067: Automotive[/ame]

Im trying to get something that is as plug and play as possible. Any ideas?
 
I am trying to keep it cheap since i will be selling the bike soon. How would this work?

Amazon.com: Bikers Choice Mini Speedo With LED Indicator Light - 2:1 Drive Ratio 76067: Automotive

Im trying to get something that is as plug and play as possible. Any ideas?

So, I had an issue with mine in the past. (wiring) I purchased one off of some one here on the forum, and didn't end of needing it. So if you would want to go that route pm me. The other thing that I had considered as a cheap alternative was a trail tech Vapor. This is an enduro computer that is made to withstand some impressive amounts of shock and water. Plus it will show you most everything that you will need to see, if it is hooked up properly.
 
Well, now you have the perfect excuse to get an aftermarket cluster of your choosing(tell the wifey the cat/dog/random animal knocked it over or something)! Koso makes some nice gauges. :D


I bet these guys did it. . . They are Evil and seem related. . . .
638080969_2281172208_0.jpg
 
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