do i need yamabond for this engine cover?

[QwickFliCk]

for those who kno valve checks...im going to check my valves soon im wondering do i have to use yamabond 4 with a new gasket or just slap a new gasket and call it a day?

how to bout the valve cover gasket as well?

thanks!

 

[FinalImpact]

Although yamabond is the preferred compound, I've had mine off several times and used black RTV. Toyota, honda and GM make very similar product to yamabond that work equally well.

BIG CAUTION: use the minimal amount and keep it thin towards the interior (nearly invisible) and only paper thick towards the outer perimeter of the sealing surfaces. The reason being - excess can fall inward into oil circulation and plug oil feed ports.

You'll know if you used too much if: you mate the surface with firm pressure and then pull it away and see a big blob inside the engine. This can be done to a small test strip 1/2" long. So - MORE IS NOT better!

Mine is not leaking and when I'm done tinkering - I install the new gasket and good sealant.

Gasket PN: 5SL-15456-01, Gasket, oil pump cov

 

[Hellgate]

I assume you are using a new gasket?

 

[QwickFliCk]

Although yamabond is the preferred compound, I've had mine off several times and used black RTV. Toyota, honda and GM make very similar product to yamabond that work equally well.

BIG CAUTION: use the minimal amount and keep it thin towards the interior (nearly invisible) and only paper thick towards the outer perimeter of the sealing surfaces. The reason being - excess can fall inward into oil circulation and plug oil feed ports.

You'll know if you used too much if: you mate the surface with firm pressure and then pull it away and see a big blob inside the engine. This can be done to a small test strip 1/2" long. So - MORE IS NOT better!

Mine is not leaking and when I'm done tinkering - I install the new gasket and good sealant.

Gasket PN: 5SL-15456-01, Gasket, oil pump cov

thank you great advice

I assume you are using a new gasket?

yea im goin to order all new gaskets i rather not take a chance in any leaks/ failures

 

[trepetti]

Curious. How many miles do you have on the bike ? I have 22k and I skipped the valve check in this year's prep.

 

[QwickFliCk]

Curious. How many miles do you have on the bike ? I have 22k and I skipped the valve check in this year's prep.

im closing in on 28k

 

[Andz]

Personally, when I have done engine rebuilds in the past, the only place I used any sort of bond was on the crankcase halves. Any other join has had a gasket and if you make sure the surfaces are clean and torque the bolts properly, no leaks should occur.

 

[FinalImpact]

Personally, when I have done engine rebuilds in the past, the only place I used any sort of bond was on the crankcase halves. Any other join has had a gasket and if you make sure the surfaces are clean and torque the bolts properly, no leaks should occur.

I can tell you that the "NEW OEM" gasket is stamped steal (or something) with a ridge in it. Its a crush fit gasket and has no soft rubber components. So if all mating parts were cleaned properly I would venture to guess a pure metal gasket will seep if not sealed with some form of sealant.

"PN: 5SL-15456-01, Gasket, oil pump cov" is not paper, rubber, and it contains no pliable soft sealants. Other NON-OEM gaskets could be of "another" material and not require additional sealers.

Me personally: any type of paper or porous gaskets gets sealed with either "Spray Copper Coat" or rattle can "gloss enamel paint". As this seals the pores of the material so it doesn't seep. And yes, I've rebuilt many engines with great success. Prep and clean up make the difference between a good job and lasting good job.

 

[Andz]

I can tell you that the "NEW OEM" gasket is stamped steal (or something) with a ridge in it. Its a crush fit gasket and has no soft rubber components. So if all mating parts were cleaned properly I would venture to guess a pure metal gasket will seep if not sealed with some form of sealant.

"PN: 5SL-15456-01, Gasket, oil pump cov" is not paper, rubber, and it contains no pliable soft sealants. Other NON-OEM gaskets could be of "another" material and not require additional sealers.

Me personally: any type of paper or porous gaskets gets sealed with either "Spray Copper Coat" or rattle can "gloss enamel paint". As this seals the pores of the material so it doesn't seep. And yes, I've rebuilt many engines with great success. Prep and clean up make the difference between a good job and lasting good job.

Hmmm, I guess I am old school when gaskets were made of GASKET material :spank:

 

[FinalImpact]

Hmmm, I guess I am old school when gaskets were made of GASKET material :spank:

Me too - times are a changing....

What's interesting is the cover is doweled in place to achieve accurate timing control of the pickup; why did they use a gasket it all? Why not just seal it like you mentioned 'case-halves' being done. Many assemblies are form a gasket and offer no actual material other than sealant.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Personally, when I have done engine rebuilds in the past, the only place I used any sort of bond was on the crankcase halves. Any other join has had a gasket and if you make sure the surfaces are clean and torque the bolts properly, no leaks should occur.

Agreed 100%.

That side cover only requires sealer on the rubber part where the wires go thru. No other sealer is called for (in the manual). It is not rubber, a paper like compound of some sort. I have personally replaced that cover on my bike back in 2009, with a new gasket, Yamabond on the rubber wire boot. BONE dry years later.

Will additonal sealer hurt used sparlingly hurt, no. But it isn't necessary. Should you have a nick in the sealing surface, yes, the sealer will definintly help that.

Re the rubber valve head gasket, again, Yamabond on the cam "buttons" is called for. Many have assembled without that with NO leaks..***It should be noted that Yamaha states "New" for that valve cover gasket. Its NOT supposed to be used again, but most folks do without issue.

Gasketless joints, different story. Of course, the center, main case requires a thin coat of Yamahabond.

 

[Andz]

A couple of years ago I dropped my bike on the left side in a low speed car park incident. The insurance paid for the fairing, tank etc. and the left side engine cover. After I had repaired everything (in the dining room LOL) I took the bike out and went to change the left engine cover. I leaned the bike over against a wall on the right bar end for a while, then undid the bolts. It took quite some effort to get the cover off, then when I saw the torx bolts holding the stator (?) I though "f*ck that" and just bolted it back on again. To this day, not a drop leaked.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A couple of years ago I dropped my bike on the left side in a low speed car park incident. The insurance paid for the fairing, tank etc. and the left side engine cover. After I had repaired everything (in the dining room LOL) I took the bike out and went to change the left engine cover. I leaned the bike over against a wall on the right bar end for a while, then undid the bolts. It took quite some effort to get the cover off, then when I saw the torx bolts holding the stator (?) I though "f*ck that" and just bolted it back on again. To this day, not a drop leaked.

Agreed, not unusual. Clearances are pretty tight.

IMO, Yamaha (and others) makes parts that "need replacement", (ie, rubber valve cover gasket) just to cover themselves and prevent "come backs" to dealers. Time is $.

Just like brake seals. Every two years?? Now that's preventive maintainance...

 

[FinalImpact]

Andz, are you talking about the Torx head bolt on the outside of the case? Its for checking the timing! You remove the plastic plug in the middle and shoot a strobe style timing light into the hole and with that Torx bolt removed, it frames a Window "slot" so to speak to align the Trigger Wheel timing marks too.

Take a look here. Right next to the pickup coil is the end of the torx bolt. When the cover is in place, the Torx head bolt and the center cap are removed to check the ignition advance. The Torx bolt need not come out to remove the cover.

Flip the cover around into place and the bolts slot aligns ~ with the arrow on the case.

The whole cover:

A close up of Trigger, the guides, and Chain.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Randy,

Andz, I believe, is referring to the LEFT SIDE engine cover and the torx screws that hold the actual stator to the outer, engine case...

 

[Andz]

Randy,

Andz, I believe, is referring to the LEFT SIDE engine cover and the torx screws that hold the actual stator to the outer, engine case...

Yup that's the one, but thanks for the info in case I need it later!

 

[FinalImpact]

Thread tag bump

JJD952 - Engine Timing Light