Cracked oil pan, any advice?

TownsendsFJR1300

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Is that a "Dowty washer"?

Never heard the word "Dowty" so I can't say..

You buy a small pack of automotive,actual oil drain plug washers, that's what thier made for.


They come in different sizes so make sure you get the correct size.

Metric, of course fits perfect, SAE is a little sloppy..
 
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greg

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Ah ok, I curious to see what made them reusuable

Dowty washers appear to have an inner o-ring seal in them.

dowty_washer.jpg
 

FinalImpact

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Hmm ^^^

IME; Crush washers are like those under the spark plug bodies. They are nearly always folded steel. A variant is brass which is flat and those are found under the banjo bolts on the calipers. The brass is soft and will deform into variations in the two materials. Steel does not deform easily unless its rolled like those under the spark plugs.

OIL FILTERS:
99% of them --> touch the oiled gasket down, turn 3/4 of turn. Done


FASTENERS IN GENERAL:
When they stop turning, something has to give. So be wise about how much torque is applied once a fasten seats and no longer spins freely.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Ah ok, I curious to see what made them reusuable

Dowty washers appear to have an inner o-ring seal in them.

dowty_washer.jpg

Ok, I've seen those (actually have one) didn't know the name. :thumbup:
Are those re-usable?

The copper is flexable enough to be re-used. If it gets really scored up, a quick clean up with a fine file makes it new again...
 

greg

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Ok, I've seen those (actually have one) didn't know the name. :thumbup:
Are those re-usable?

The copper is flexable enough to be re-used. If it gets really scored up, a quick clean up with a fine file makes it new again...

I think so, I was doing a google to for re-usable oil washers and these were mentioned.

With copper washers you can re-use them by annealing them, heat them up until they glow cherry red, and then slowly let it cool. I think they harden up under pressure
 

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I always use the same original copper washer. Still no leaking for 6 years and almost 10 oil change. May be i should change it soon :)
 

greg

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tbh I'm guilty of reusing mine too, but I think using a new one would reduce problems, especially if you tightened your old bolt so much that it cracked the sump
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I think so, I was doing a google to for re-usable oil washers and these were mentioned.

With copper washers you can re-use them by annealing them, heat them up until they glow cherry red, and then slowly let it cool. I think they harden up under pressure

In the very old days (late 70's) when rebuilding top ends to YZ 125's and YZ 250's often, we annealed the copper head gaskets on a gas stove top, then dropped into cold water...
 

gottherim4

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i did the same freakin thing this weekend and i'm really ticked off at myself

Where is Virginia are you? I am in northern VA. PM me if you need help/hand to work on fixing it.

I ordered the second ebay link fazil provided. The oil pan is shipping from Israel, the country, to Virginia within a week (claimed). Not too shabby. I was even able to negotiate a bit off the price. Still an expensive fix though.

I took off the headers this morning. The bolts were not bad, I wonder if the previous owner had removed them at some point. It was the O2 sensor near the back of the header pipe that was a PITA. That took some man power that I used to start this whole mess. :thumbup:

Now to work on cleaning the pipes to a pretty mirror finish while I wait for parts. A question about the studs/bolts for the headers: do you all reuse them, even though they are rusted? How about cleaning them up?
 

greg

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A question about the studs/bolts for the headers: do you all reuse them, even though they are rusted? How about cleaning them up?

if the nut is rusted to the stud then it might be worth ordering some new ones. If it's only a little rusty then you might be able to get the nut off (once it's off the bike)

put a bit of copper grease on the threads to help prevent them corroding into place
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Where is Virginia are you? I am in northern VA. PM me if you need help/hand to work on fixing it.

I ordered the second ebay link fazil provided. The oil pan is shipping from Israel, the country, to Virginia within a week (claimed). Not too shabby. I was even able to negotiate a bit off the price. Still an expensive fix though.

I took off the headers this morning. The bolts were not bad, I wonder if the previous owner had removed them at some point. It was the O2 sensor near the back of the header pipe that was a PITA. That took some man power that I used to start this whole mess. :thumbup:

Now to work on cleaning the pipes to a pretty mirror finish while I wait for parts. A question about the studs/bolts for the headers: do you all reuse them, even though they are rusted? How about cleaning them up?

Cool, very good!

If the nuts came off and left the studs in the head, I would simply wire brush the threads nice and clean, some high temp anti sieze (as posted above) on the threads.

Then run those nuts (if the threads are fine) on the studs just to clear away any rust internally. Their going to get rusty anyway again and you can barely see them way up there anyway (I'd re-use them).

If the stud(s) came out with the nuts, I'd order new stud(s) and nut UNLESS you can get them apart in a vise without damaging them. Screw in the studs into the head with TWO regular nuts locked together just barely bottoming out in the head.

I know their NOT torqued tightly, I actually had two loosen up on mine, heard a weird new noise (exhaust leak) about two years ago (never been touched-I knew the original owner.
 

greg

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should also add that I ordered some new A2 stainless flanged nuts for my headers, I also replaced all the studs. I did have problems with a couple of them rusting and snapping though (which is why I replaced them). I think they're M8 in size
 
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