Cracked oil pan, any advice?

[gottherim4]

What I learned over the weekend: Don't man-handle bolts, especially your oil drain bolt. Use a torque wrench and be more gentle. This is a mistake I will only make once, hopefully!

Just performing a routine oil change. After putting the drain bolt back on I tightened it like an ape, thinking tighter=better. Big mistake. Now I have a hairline crack on the bottom of the oil pan, see pictures below. The crack is very small, but oil is seeping out. I re-drained the oil to get the pictures and then properly torqued the bolt.

Would you replace the oil pan or take off the pan and attempt a repair with something like JD weld? Advice for either option would be appreciated. The best price I can find for a new pan, gasket, and exhaust gaskets (since the header has to come off too) is $160 including shipping. But, how long will that take to ship? I want to fix this correctly, but with as little down time as possible, seeing how the weather on the east coast is looking fantastic.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What I learned over the weekend: Don't man-handle bolts, especially your oil drain bolt. Use a torque wrench and be more gentle. This is a mistake I will only make once, hopefully!

Just performing a routine oil change. After putting the drain bolt back on I tightened it like an ape, thinking tighter=better. Big mistake. Now I have a hairline crack on the bottom of the oil pan, see pictures below. The crack is very small, but oil is seeping out. I re-drained the oil to get the pictures and then properly torqued the bolt.

Would you replace the oil pan or take off the pan and attempt a repair with something like JD weld? Advice for either option would be appreciated. The best price I can find for a new pan, gasket, and exhaust gaskets (since the header has to come off too) is $160 including shipping. But, how long will that take to ship? I want to fix this correctly, but with as little down time as possible, seeing how the weather on the east coast is looking fantastic.

Welcome to the forum!

Even with a torque wrench, set to spec's at 31 ft lbs, it'll likely strip. Snug, 12-15 lbs is PLENTY. Your at least the 2nd one this week to damage the pan.

Depending on where you order from will be the shipping time. I can usually get parts within two days (from my local private shop)

And yes, the correct way to fix is a new pan (you'll need a new pan gasket too). There is a pan bolt just about in the middle of the pan that needs to be removed. The hardest part will be removing the header to access the pan.

INVEST in a light duty, GOOD torque wrench for the pan replacement...

PM sent

 

[gottherim4]

My local shop has the oil pan for at least $50 more than I can get it online. Any tips to get it cheaper but still quick?

 

[greg]

i'd also be careful removing the header, I snapped the heads off a couple of bolts removing mine,

make your life easier and use copper grease on them [the header bolts] when you put it back together

you could probably get the pan welded, but I think it would be a similar cost, plus it would never be quite the same again

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd call around to different on-line distributors and see if its in stock and the wait time and normal shipping times, etc.

Obviously, you could probably get it overnight but there goes your $50.00

Greg, I PM'ed him to start spraying penetrating oil NOW on the header nuts and UNTIL the header comes off.

Anthony, you'll probably have a half day (with the header especially) getting the bike apart and ready for the new parts, (cleaning, scraping gaskets, etc)

 

[FinalImpact]

My local shop has the oil pan for at least $50 more than I can get it online. Any tips to get it cheaper but still quick?

I'm not saying this could or would or may possibly happen but, buy two, one to Fix your current dilemma, and one to return to your local boys... :spank:

Sorry man,
As you found the problem is it DOESN'T STRIP. That would be blessing compared to that crack. Rule of thumb is, when bolts/nuts stop turning, something has to give.

In a pinch one could Epoxy in a drain valve (ball c0cks valves that don't leak), but there are no guarantees it won't continue to crack.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm not saying this could or would or may possibly happen but, buy two, one to Fix your current dilemma, and one to return to your local boys... :spank:

Sorry man,
As you found the problem is it DOESN'T STRIP. That would be blessing compared to that crack. Rule of thumb is, when bolts/nuts stop turning, something has to give.

In a pinch one could Epoxy in a drain valve (ball c0cks valves that don't leak), but there are no guarantees it won't continue to crack.

I had a cracked aluminum pan to an air compressor (Devbliss-NOT oil free). Had it welded and it still leaked. Ended up buying a new pan/base.

As noted, a stripped case is one thing, a broke case is MUCH more difficult to repair. IMO, not worth chancing JB weld and the bolt falling out...

 

[gottherim4]

I called the local dealer. No one nearby has the pan in stock (no surprise) but they said their warehouse is showing back ordered until...JULY. I am hitting the online suppliers now looking for in-stock parts.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Another member just blew up an engine (threw a rod thru the case). I'll bet you could get that pan for cheap. He's looking for a another block

Here ya go: http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-wanted/52399-new-motor-casings.html

Found a bottom end already for him (wether he goes for it or not, dunno)

 

[fazil]

or try this ebay oil pan:

06 2006 Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 600 Engine Oil Pan Cover Plate | eBay

 

[gottherim4]

or try this ebay oil pan:

06 2006 Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 600 Engine Oil Pan Cover Plate | eBay

I saw that one and was just about to post about eBay! I called a few online part shops, and no one has a pan in-stock. The guy at Ron Ayers was very helpful. He said my only chance to get one before July would be in someone had it on the shelf. This brings me to eBay. The pan fazil posted looks a little well-loved. I found another that would be a good option, what do you all think?: Yamaha FZ6 FZS600 Fazer 600 Strainer Cover 4S8 13417 00 | eBay

 

[FinalImpact]

or try this ebay oil pan:

06 2006 Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 600 Engine Oil Pan Cover Plate | eBay

I suspect this surface damage is from dragging the engine about on the ground before it was sacrificed to the Yamaha gods in the high mountains (gutted & parted out).

Its also in a different neighborhood. Looks fine tho! {{ To well Loved!! haha!! }}

Thanks Fazil!

 

[gottherim4]

I just re-examined the link fazil provided. It is in Florida, I think he is UK so we saw it on his ebay site I guess? Anyway, that one is from a 2006 fz6, which is a different part number. Compare it to the link I provided. They look a little different- the shapes and curves are different. For $23 shipped I am think of trying the used pan. It can continue to be well loved

 

[fazil]

New part is always better and i know this seller. I've bought some parts from her without any issues.
and you can make an offer to her also. I mean to bargain.

Yamaha FZ6 FZS600 Fazer 600 Strainer Cover 4S8 13417 00 | eBay

 

[wolverine3438]

i did the same freakin thing this weekend and i'm really ticked off at myself

 

[FinalImpact]

i did the same freakin thing this weekend and i'm really ticked off at myself

That's a helluva way to jump on board the forum!

Hi and Welcome! Sorry to hear that. You up for some wrenching or have a plan?

Let us know if we can be of assistance.
Good luck!

 

[wolverine3438]

i know and i'm sorry...i appreciate it

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The FJR guys are doing it too... Slightly different pan so those pans just strip out, no cracking...

 

[kenh]

What I learned over the weekend: Don't man-handle bolts, especially your oil drain bolt. Use a torque wrench and be more gentle. This is a mistake I will only make once, hopefully!
Just performing a routine oil change. After putting the drain bolt back on I tightened it like an ape, thinking tighter=better. Big mistake. Now I have a hairline crack on the bottom of the oil pan, see pictures below. The crack is very small, but oil is seeping out. I re-drained the oil to get the pictures and then properly torqued the bolt.

i did the same freakin thing this weekend and i'm really ticked off at myself

Sorry guys, that is an expensive and pain in the a$$ lesson to learn. Oil filters and drain plugs are two things that most people generally overtighten (true for all engines). With each one you just make good contact and then maybe a 1/4 turn more to snug up. I prefer not to follow torque specs, but to do it by feel. The worst case is if it happens to leak, then just tighten it a little more, but very rarely have I seen one not seal properly.
Best of luck with your repair. :thumbup:

 

[greg]

might be worth investing in some new crush washers too, they are pretty cheap