Clutch

[fzsixx]

I noticed my clutch is a little hard to pull in when shifting anything i can do about this. I only noticed it because my hand hurts a little today after shifting a bunch yesterday. -Matt

 

[david323]

Lube the cable and get in on this:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/35451-clutch-slave-levers-im-making-them-again.html

 

[Xavias]

I had the same thing. Not sure what other people suggest, but I found that allowing more play in the shifter by rotating the little dial eased my issue. It allowed me to keep the lever closer to the bars (not having to reach as far helped) and still allowed me to fully engage the clutch with 2 fingers on a "normal" lever (though my shorty's should be in in the next week or so)

I can explain more if you need me to...

 

[Motogiro]

Also check out Travis's cable lube kit! http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-sale/35426-revolutionary-new-cable-lubricator.html

 

[david323]

Also check out Travis's cable lube kit! http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-sale/35426-revolutionary-new-cable-lubricator.html

+1 - This kit makes it extremely easy for both the clutch AND throttle.

 

[Ssky0078]

I had just posted early on your other thread asking for what to do to your bike about lubing the Clutch cable. I had done the same thing as you. I noticed my hand hurting and then lubed the cable and noticed it helped. Also playing with the adjustment helped.

Apache Motorcycle had a different lube kit, but it had the tool you need and the lube. Also I cut up the plastic container it came in and it made the perfect type of funnel to drain the oil with.

 

[Daniel_Aus]

I noticed my clutch is a little hard to pull in when shifting anything i can do about this. I only noticed it because my hand hurts a little today after shifting a bunch yesterday. -Matt

I'm not sure how many hours you have in the saddle yet, but it doesn't take too long to strengthen the muscles in your hand. You will notice it stops hurting after a while and then you just need to ride regularly.

I have always noticed after long periods of not riding that my hand hurts quite a bit for the first few rides.

Also as others have said, adjust and lube clutch cable

 

[2007Fizzer]

I'm an older rider. And my 207 FZ6 (the faster blue) came via Craigslist, so it probably wore a clutch cable which had never been lubed in the prior 13,200 miles. So I'm doing all the steps. Step 1: I loosened the clutch cable at the lever, and greased the "ball end" of the cable where it pivots in the lever. Step 2: Then I took a syringe with a long thin, blunt metal needle, and "injected" some oil down into the clutch cable housing (it took 3 days for that oil to reach the other end of the cable, during which I rode at least a short trip each day). Step 3: I purchased the parts from Killernoodle to modify the lever which actually actuates the clutch, on the top of the transmission above the foot brake pedal, and will be installing that mod right after Christmas. Step 4: I'll be picking up a new clutch cable tomorrow, so I can install it in conjunction with the Killernoodle clutch mod. In my experience, the first two steps (on the old clutch cable) helped some, but I need all the help I can get, at least in stop and go traffic. I suspect that the Killernoodle mod will decrease overall clutch effort about 20% more (based on comments from others), and of course a new, freshly lubed clutch cable should be a big help also. As an older rider, I'll also be lubing the new clutch cable every time I lube the chain, to keep things moving smoothly and freely. YMMV, young 'uns.
- - - Jim

Most problems can be solved with a suitable application of throttle.

 

[iSteve]

If you put a new cable on don't lube it till it starts to gets harder to pull. The stock cable (at least on the 08) has a teflon sleeve between the cable and the case. These cables are suppose to not need lube... well until water gets in. I noticed that with my original cable after lubing it several times that the teflon sleeve actually started moving inside the outer case.

My newest cable has a little over 5k miles on it right now and I still haven't lubed it other then a little grease on the lever ends.

 

[FinalImpact]

Something else that folks fail to realize is setup. With your arms straight out, palms down, point your hands such that they are parallel to your forearms. Make a fist taking note of your hands strength by making a fist and squezzing. Mechanically, you have good strength in your grip. Now tilt your hands upwards making that same fist. Notice how your strength was just cut in half?
From the factory the levers on the bars are tilted up WAY TOO MUCH for anyone with a longer torso. Because of this, your hands can be pointed up which weakens your strength and reduces circulation. Loosen the lever clamps and rotate them such that when your in your riding position, your hands and wrists remain parallel to your forearm as your finger reach over the levers. This really matters on the brake side so you have all of your strength available during braking.

NOTE: If you rotate the brake lever down allot because of your taller mid section, be warned that during braking you now have a mechanical advantage. Don't Brake too HARD!

 

[Ssky0078]

Something else that folks fail to realize is setup. With your arms straight out, palms down, point your hands such that they are parallel to your forearms. Make a fist taking note of your hands strength by making a fist and squezzing. Mechanically, you have good strength in your grip. Now tilt your hands upwards making that same fist. Notice how your strength was just cut in half?
From the factory the levers on the bars are tilted up WAY TOO MUCH for anyone with a longer torso. Because of this, your hands can be pointed up which weakens your strength and reduces circulation. Loosen the lever clamps and rotate them such that when your in your riding position, your hands and wrists remain parallel to your forearm as your finger reach over the levers. This really matters on the brake side so you have all of your strength available during braking.

NOTE: If you rotate the brake lever down allot because of your taller mid section, be warned that during braking you now have a mechanical advantage. Don't Brake too HARD!

Where was this advice when I was having my hand numbness and vibration issue? I think this actually was part of my problem and I may not have noticed the vibes as much. :BLAA:

 

[SweaterDude]

Go ride an old dirtbike in some really nasty trails for about 4 hours. magically your FZs clutch will become soft and smooth like baby oil.:BLAA:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Go ride an old dirtbike in some really nasty trails for about 4 hours. magically your FZs clutch will become soft and smooth like baby oil.:BLAA:

Ride an old HD, those clutches are easily 3X harder to pull than the FZ.

+1 on the cable lube, adjustment, KN mod, new cable, etc.

If your hand still hurts after all that, you need to drive a car...

 

[2007Fizzer]

I'm an older rider. And my 207 FZ6 (the faster blue) came via Craigslist, so it probably wore a clutch cable which had never been lubed in the prior 13,200 miles. So I'm doing all the steps...... I suspect that the Killernoodle mod will decrease overall clutch effort about 20% more (based on comments from others), and of course a new, freshly lubed clutch cable should be a big help also.- - - Jim

Yeah. OK. I'm the type to "throw the book" at a simple problem! Well, I got my Killernoodle clutch mod parts on Saturday, and on Tuesday a.m. ripped off my stock clutch lever parts (so I could promptly return the "cores" to KN), and quickly installed the KN modified clutch parts since amazingly, the sun broke out of the clouds for the first time in several days. What I described as four steps quickly became a "two-step" process. I'd already lubed the cable. And KN's current version of the mod provides three additional holes on the clutch lever compared to stock - which gives you a roughly 30% or so easier clutch pull at the lever!!!!!! Made my whole month!!!!! I'll still be "stretching" my arms and wrists and fingers at some of the traffic lights I hit, but I'll probably never again have to worry about clutch pull effort! Great job KN! Big help to us senior riders.
- - - Jim

Most problems can be solved by a suitable application of throttle. (but not all)

 

[2007Fizzer]

DON'T LUBE THE DARNED CABLE!!!! I got my bike used. I'm never sure what's stock, but I suspect most things are OEM. My clutch cable, at the transmission end, has about 1-1/2" of what looks to be a white "inner liner" sticking out of the end. I now understand that my cable has a teflon inner liner. And from what I read on-line, from recognized sellers of teflon lined clutch cables as well as on other forums, that cables with a teflon liner shouldn't be lubed! Apparently the solvent used in the lube oil breaks down the teflon over time. My teflon clutch cable liner now moves in and out of the outer cable jacket as I engage and disengage the clutch, and that's just wrong. The teflon liner's supposed to stay in place and let the clutch cable slide nicely through it, without moving.

I'll be kicking hiney and taking names at my dealership, since they advised lubing my clutch cable and sold me a bottle of cable lube, knowing I drove a stock 207 FZ6 with teflon lined cables! They had no clue. Moral of the story, based on my research - lube your clutch cable only when its about to fail, and only as a short term solution until you replace it. Otherwise, don't lube the clutch cable. Just use a little dab of grease at each end to help preclude the intrusion of dust/dirt. And of course put some lubricant on the lever pivot, and on the moving parts down at the transmission end. Personally, I have a new clutch cable on order, and will NOT lube it until it starts to die.
- - - Jim

Most problems can be solved with a suitable application of throttle.

 

[FinalImpact]

DON'T LUBE THE DARNED CABLE!!!! I got my bike used. I'm never sure what's stock, but I suspect most things are OEM. My clutch cable, at the transmission end, has about 1-1/2" of what looks to be a white "inner liner" sticking out of the end. I now understand that my cable has a teflon inner liner. And from what I read on-line, from recognized sellers of teflon lined clutch cables as well as on other forums, that cables with a teflon liner shouldn't be lubed! Apparently the solvent used in the lube oil breaks down the teflon over time. My teflon clutch cable liner now moves in and out of the outer cable jacket as I engage and disengage the clutch, and that's just wrong. The teflon liner's supposed to stay in place and let the clutch cable slide nicely through it, without moving.

I'll be kicking hiney and taking names at my dealership, since they advised lubing my clutch cable and sold me a bottle of cable lube, knowing I drove a stock 207 FZ6 with teflon lined cables! They had no clue. Moral of the story, based on my research - lube your clutch cable only when its about to fail, and only as a short term solution until you replace it. Otherwise, don't lube the clutch cable. Just use a little dab of grease at each end to help preclude the intrusion of dust/dirt. And of course put some lubricant on the lever pivot, and on the moving parts down at the transmission end. Personally, I have a new clutch cable on order, and will NOT lube it until it starts to die.
- - - Jim

Most problems can be solved with a suitable application of throttle.

Hmm - - The Owners Manual has this in the check list of maintenance items:
Item # 23 * Control cables • Apply Yamaha chain and cable lube or engine oil SAE 10W-30 thoroughly.

Another section:
Checking and lubricating the cables:
The operation of all control cables and the condition of the cables should be checked before each ride, and the cables and cable ends should be lubricated if necessary. If a cable is damaged or does not move smoothly, have a Yamaha dealer check or replace it.
Recommended lubricant: Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or engine oil SAE 10W-30

Checking and lubricating the throttle grip and cable
The operation of the throttle grip should be checked before each ride. In addition, the cable should be lubricated at the intervals specified in the periodic maintenance chart.

 

[FinalImpact]

Where was this advice when I was having my hand numbness and vibration issue? I think this actually was part of my problem and I may not have noticed the vibes as much. :BLAA:

I've posted this several times. . . Go Fetch!!! :0) :BLAA:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hmm - - The Owners Manual has this in the check list of maintenance items:
Item # 23 * Control cables • Apply Yamaha chain and cable lube or engine oil SAE 10W-30 thoroughly.

Another section:
Checking and lubricating the cables:
The operation of all control cables and the condition of the cables should be checked before each ride, and the cables and cable ends should be lubricated if necessary. If a cable is damaged or does not move smoothly, have a Yamaha dealer check or replace it.
Recommended lubricant: Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or engine oil SAE 10W-30

Checking and lubricating the throttle grip and cable
The operation of the throttle grip should be checked before each ride. In addition, the cable should be lubricated at the intervals specified in the periodic maintenance chart.

+1 on this big time^^^^

To not /service/lubricate a cable is ridiculous...

As Randy noted, its in the manual as a scheduled service...

I hope you don't believe everything you read on the internet... I also hope you carry a spare clutch cable with you as your going to need it one day...

14,000 miles on my original FZ cable, just lubed it last week, smooth as silk AND the inner teflon doesn't move....

All my bikes (with a clutch cable and throttle cables) since 1973, got lubed (I prefer the cable specific, clamp on the cable pressurized can variety). Very, very rare that I replaced a clutch cable in 200,000 + seat miles (A bunch of that with a hydralic clutch).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Quote:
"My teflon clutch cable liner now moves in and out of the outer cable jacket as I engage and disengage the clutch, and that's just wrong. The teflon liner's supposed to stay in place and let the clutch cable slide nicely through it, without moving."


Yep, that's because the inner cable is frozen (from lack of lube) to the teflon inner sleeve! Somethings got to move, the teflon is gunked up/froze to the inner cable form lack of maintainance....

Lube that thing!

 

[FinalImpact]

Quote:
"My teflon clutch cable liner now moves in and out of the outer cable jacket as I engage and disengage the clutch, and that's just wrong. The teflon liner's supposed to stay in place and let the clutch cable slide nicely through it, without moving."


Yep, that's because the inner cable is frozen (from lack of lube) to the teflon inner sleeve! Somethings got to move, the teflon is gunked up/froze to the inner cable form lack of maintainance....

Lube that thing!

I hate it when the lube dries up and STICKS to IT!