Clutch still slips..

Chephren

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HI guys and gals,

A few weeks ago I had trouble with my clutch slipping, after reading a few posts I found how to adjust the bottom end of the FZS600 clutch and went ahead and loosened the lock nut and used a screw driver on the middle bit.
I turned clockwise until I felt resistance then backed out 90 deg as I'd read too and re-locked the nut but I'm still getting a bit of slip on hard acceleration altho it's much better than it was.

My question is, how much resistance should you feel before backing out 90 deg? From when you first feel the slightest resistance or firm resistance? there's nearly 90 deg between the 2 so this could be my problem.

Would it bite better if screwed further in or out?

Thanks in advance, hopefully I don't need a new clutch, she's done 24.5k miles what kinda life do you get from FZS600 clutch plates?

Cheers guys really appreciate you taking your time to read and/or hopefully reply :)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Your bike is much earlier than the S1's etc and a bit of a different set up.

Couple things that should help.

Make sure the clutch cable is clean and lubed (basic maintenance).
The actual mechanical part at the engine case, Make sure (if even possible), that its spotless and lubed/greased depending on the design.

Obviously if you have the shop manual or even owners manual, the actual adjustment should be in both.

IME, from years gone back with Yammmies(not your specific model), as I re-call, you'd put some play in the cable (with the ENGINE adjuster adjusted out). Then you would turn the adjuster in until you felt some contact. I don't remember (and your is likely different anyway) specifically, but back out the adjuster just a tad, approx 1/8 turn and lock down.

Test and re-adjust making notes.

I mentioned the cable and the lower mechanism first because in the early 70's, just a little bit of crap in that mechanism was very noticeable. If the cable/mechanism isn't FULLY releasing, it may be holding the clutch from fully engaging..

Now if you have lots of free play, no doubt the clutch is fully engaged and it still slips, your most likely looking at new clutch plates, springs, etc. Measuring plates, frictions, springs, etc, would help narrow down the the issue. Springs do loose tension over time, parts wear, etc...

Hope that helps and please post back what you find...
 

Zealot

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I'm going to trust that you've already adjusted (like you said) your clutch properly on both ends. There should be a bit of free play in the cable before it starts to pull the plates apart, as I'm sure you're well aware. My next guess might be that the return spring is in need of replacement, or a touch up - have you looked at that? What about the status of your clutch plates themselves? Have you taken those out and had a visual inspection?
 

Chephren

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Hi guys, thanks for your replies it's appriciated..

The cable seems to be fine, there's about 10mm of play in the lever when the clutch is engaged and both ends are clean/moving freely.

I'm even more confused now as I was out a few days ago and it was slipping real bad at 5k then yesterday i couldn't get it to slip at all and nothing had been changed or adjusted.

I haven't taken the engine case off yet but looking in the oil fill hole the gaps in between the plates look similar to the new clutch I fitted in my old NSR, I know they'll be totally different but to me they don't look worn out but obviously I won't know for sure unless I take the side case off which will be my next job if further adjustments don't help.
I changed the oil while I was waiting for my adaption to arrive and it's only been in there about a month so taking the engine apart will be my last option.

I think I'll try the lower end adjustment again as 1/8th turn back is half of what I'd read so that could make a big difference.

I bought an owners manual CD from ebay but it doesn't have much detail so I'm gonna buy a Haynes manual because this thing I've got doesn't show a return spring or not that I can find anyway, I got more info from forums than I did the CD.

When I got the bike about 2 months ago I lubed everything including the clutch cable but I didn't put any in the lower adjuster so i'll take a look at that today when I adjust it and oil/grease as needed.

I'll try further adjustment and report back, hopefully the 1/8th turn rather than 1/4 will make a difference.

Thanks again for your replies :)
 

iSteve

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Your thinking on the clutch screw adjuster is backwards. Back out the screw a full turn this way there will be absolutely no chance of clutch being disengaged at rest.
Looking at the clutch through the oil filer hole means nothing. You need to take the clutch apart and measure the plates and disks and check for glaze.
 

Chephren

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I had a fiddle earlier and backed out 1/8th turn rather than 1/4 and it seems to have fixed it, even up hill in 1st it didn't slip.

I'll have to do a few more miles to be sure but it's been fine today, it bites earlier too so the 1/8th turn has definitely made a difference :)

Cheers for all the input :)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I had a fiddle earlier and backed out 1/8th turn rather than 1/4 and it seems to have fixed it, even up hill in 1st it didn't slip.

I'll have to do a few more miles to be sure but it's been fine today, it bites earlier too so the 1/8th turn has definitely made a difference :)

How's the clutch doing?
 

Pujazuba

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Like ozgurakman says above. Have you verified that you are using the correct type of oil according to your manual?
 

Pujazuba

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Yes. There seems to be a whooole lot of very old abandoned threads. But hey it's never bad to learn what was the solution. :)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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