Me again, slipping clutch.

[Chephren]

Me again, slipping clutch. (solved)

I didn't have a service history for my 1998 FZS600 Fazer so when I got her with 24,081 miles on the clock I changed the oil and filter, I had a few battery problems but by yesterday I had her running so I was straight out for a ride.

At first I didn't notice it but after 30-40 miles the clutch started slipping but sometimes it doesn't, Last time I had a slippy clutch it was a new everything on an NSR125, I'd imagine this one will cost a little more lol.

I've been scanning forums and everyone says adjust it at the lever but that's got a little bit of play in it so it's holding the clutch open.
I read about adjusting the clutch down the bottom end by opening one screw and tightening another? If anyone knows anything about that please get in touch, I haven't even done 100 miles yet and can't ride her again

Please please tell me I can save my clutch..
When you open the oil filler cap, how much space should there be between the clutch plates?

Sorry for all the questions, I wish I know more, my CD version of the service manual is pi$$ useless
Gonna get a Haynes....

 

[vinmansbrew]

Well, first things first. Did it slip before the oil change? Also, exactly what oil did you use?

 

[FinalImpact]

If the cable the has "free play" and the lever some amount of movement, its not likely the fault of the adjustment as much as it is the mechanics of it.

Wrong oil.... as noted above ^^
Clutch friction discs worn
Steel discs worn
Weak springs
Abuse / burnt
Too much power!


For the record, most of us here are dealing with the 2004 - 2009 models vs 1998.
Any midway spanner style adjuster needs to be set so the final adjustment (top) allows a range of usable travel. With the TOP adjusted extended leaving say two full threads engaged the clutch lever would be away from the bars and fully disengage the clutch "BUT STILL HAVE SOME SLACK". While screwing it in all the way would create a huge amount of cable slack. The ideal setting is one that A) places the lever at a nice reach, B) has some cable slack (1/8"), C) fully releases the clutch. i.e. at idle let the clutch out and where ever the bike begins to move in gear is the beginning of the friction zone. The lever needs to pull further past the friction zone.

 

[vinmansbrew]

I always start with oil. The number of bikes I have seen do this because of oil is quite high. Usually an energy conserving oil by mistake. Also, since he said it gradually happened and sometimes doesn't, leads me to think it is oil related.
However' springs and fiber disks would be next in line. All it takes is 1 broken spring. Like you said though, most of us have the later models. It could be the 98 has a weak clutch anyways, it isn't unheard of.

 

[Chephren]

Because I had to adapt it for one arm I didn't get a chance to ride it until I'd done the conversion.

Oil was Silcolene super 4 10w40 as recommended by this CD "manual" I bought, more info in the daily sport! but Forums said the same 10w40.

I took her out for the first time 2 days ago and she was fine for half an hour or so then started to slip at WOT or accelerating hardish in the higher gears and gradually got worse, now it's slipping in every gear quite badly, wasn't sure I'd get up the hill this morning, it'll slip but back off the revs a little and it'll bite again as long as I accelerate slowly and keep below 4000rpm. .

I've read about an adjuster at the bottom end of the cable but all I can see is the oil filler cap and inside there you can see the clutch plates but nothing to adjust it, is this secondary adjustment only on the newer models or am I looking at a new clutch? I really hope not cos I've spent every penny I've got getting her this far and simply can't afford a new clutch right now, I hope I haven't bought another dog

I've played about with the lever adjuster and she's got the 10-15mm of slack on the lever, tightening makes no difference same as loosening it.

first ride was great then it started without me doing anything to cause it, this is the biggest bike I've had to work on, last clutch I did was an NSR125 but with this I'll have to drain the oil which is another £40 to replace, maybe my dream of riding again was just a dream, if things like this keep happening I won't be able to afford to run and maintain her. Loosing her is the last thing I want but I don't get much being disabled

Hopefully there's some 98 owners out there who have had the same problem?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, you used MC specific oil, and that's good;

SILKOLENE SUPER 4 10W40 SEMI SYNTHETIC 4 LITRE MOTORCYCLE ENGINE OIL: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike..

The clutch assembly is pretty standard;
1998 Yamaha FZR600RK Clutch | Babbitts Online

***Now, looking at the above parts fisch, the clutch release set up is very similar as the older bikes

This how to adjust it (if you haven't done it this way):


Loosen the clutch cable FULLY.

Part #18 is the MAIN adjustment screw with a lock nut.
( 1998 Yamaha FZR600RK Clutch | Babbitts Online )

That entire lower assembly tends to collect chain fling, gook, etc. It should be easily accessible under the side cover.. Pull it apart and clean it spotless. Once clean, some heavy duty grease on any moving parts (it is somewhat different from what WAS on the older bikes)

Put the cover back on. The clutch cable is attached BUT still loose.


Access to the adjuster should be under part #2;
Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 1998 FZR600RK CRANKCASE COVER 1 Diagram

**NOW, the important part, turn the adjuster in (part #18) just about seated. Lock the lock nut.

Adjust the cable to spec's.

Make sure the clutch cable is cleaned/lubed, and not sticking obviously.

Try that before you start pulling plates and springs but those would be next...

 

[Chephren]

I've just been reading about laying the bike on it's side and pulling the clutch out, will I still need to drain the oil or will laying it on it's side make it stay in?

Stating to get really annoyed with it, reading one thing here and another there and it's all different advice, some say about the adjuster at the bottom and others don't, I can't find one on mine so I guess that's the later models that have them.
All I keep reading is the older Fazers are better than the new but I'm doubting that now.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've just been reading about laying the bike on it's side and pulling the clutch out, will I still need to drain the oil or will laying it on it's side make it stay in?

Stating to get really annoyed with it, reading one thing here and another there and it's all different advice, some say about the adjuster at the bottom and others don't, I can't find one on mine so I guess that's the later models that have them.
All I keep reading is the older Fazers are better than the new but I'm doubting that now.

Did you read my post at all???

Click on the links I posted. Its shows EVERYTHING IN BLACK AND WHITE. That lower adjustment is CRITICAL


Should you pull the clutch cover, simply work on the side stand, you should be able to pull that cover W/O loosing any oil.

 

[Chephren]

TownsendsFJR1300 sorry I did read about the main adjuster but I was looking on the wrong side (the side where the clutch actually is) so presumed the lower adjustment was only on the newer bikes because someone said most of you in the forum have 2004-2007 models and figured they're gonna be different.

I was looking over all your answers and realized they were links you gave me, after looking in to them realized the cable goes in the opposite side to the actual clutch.
I'd read so many different threads in different forums I'd got a bit confused as to who had told me what.

I followed your links and at first I totally lost the clutch so had another fiddle, felt resistance etc and then backed out 1/4 and with a little adjustment at the lever it's now perfect, WOT and she goes like a rocket!

Thank you for your time and effort to help me, I'm sure changing the oil was part of the issue but that lower adjustment definitely played a huge part and did the trick lovely

Thanks again

Dave

P.s. note to self, read replies fully and ask if I don't understand (obviously) lol

There's been so much go on in the last week, fitted a Hudson engineering thumb brake which works fine after 3 hours of bleeding the brakes which was a pain in the ar$e, then she wouldn't spark and would flood and then lost my clutch! Charged battery, adjusted clutch and she's nearly good as new

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Glad it's fixed Dave and no problem.

As stated, its very similar to the bikes I grew up on.

Just as an FYI, even if you don't have a shop manual, go to Partszilla, Bike Bandit, etc and bring up a pic of what ever your working on.

It helps tremendously just as it had here... Short of torque values, you can pretty much look at the pic(a thousand words) and see what belongs where, how it assembles, etc.

Your bike (for the clutch) just happens to be a cross between several bikes as the bike evolved over time, that's probably why you got so many different answers..

Scott...