Clutch Slave Levers - I'm making them again

bryanwny

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Mine arrived! :cheer:

I'm in Rochester, so I must be somewhat near bryanwny.

Oh you can shove those pretty pink pom poms! :justkidding: Yeah, you aren't that far away. I'm ~35 miles south of Buffalo. When did you receive yours? lazamus69 had his installed back on the 9th, and he's way over in BC Canada. Here I was thinking USPS just messed up a delivery to the North East (wolfe1down and I), but you just squashed that theory. :D Maybe there is still hope. :confused:
 

Shoey

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I actually received mine on the 3rd all the way on the West coast, hehe. Strange how that works. Needless to say, I was on the road within a half hour after picking it up. :)

I'm quite satisfied; the bike is is easier to ride at slower speeds for sure.
 
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lazamus69

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I had mine shipped to an address in Washinton state and picked them up on the 7th, but they arrived on the 6th.
 

killernoodle

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if you're still making them, i would like to order one

So how many people haven't got their levers yet. I'm pretty baffled about this. They all shipped in identical padded envelopes with printed addresses, I don't really understand how some stuff can get lost and other stuff doesn't.

2 from the same batch of 12 is a pretty horrendous failure rate.
 

Spideyrex

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Sorry I did not post, but I did get my lever over a week ago, just 3-4 days after you mailed it. I have not installed since it is still wintery here.
 

SirIsaac

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As far as adjustment goes, when you take the lever off you can put the new lever a spline higher on the shaft to get your adjustment back to factory.

Basically, installing the new lever goes like this:

  1. Install the cable hanger bracket with the cable in the 2nd(new) position.
  2. Screw the handlebar clutch adjustment (clockwise) and the mid-cable adjustment all the way in.
  3. Pull the cable at the motor as far out as it will go to pull the lever at the handlebar all the way out (we need to remove all slack in the cable, just pull it taut)
  4. Install the new clutch slave lever onto the cable(but not onto the splined shaft.
  5. Put the clutch slave return spring in place.
  6. Rotate the clutch input splined shaft clockwise until it stops to take the slack out of it.
  7. Position the new clutch slave lever over the input splined shaft and rotate it as hard counter-clockwise as you can before you slide it on the input splined shaft (this is to take all of the slack out of the cable).
  8. When the lever is on the input splined shaft, put the clutch slave return spring on the clutch slave lever.
  9. Tap the clutch slave lever all the way down and reinstall the factory washer and circlip on the splined input shaft.
  10. Adjust the master lever at the handlebar until the desired engagement zone is reached.

Okay, I finally had time to (attempt to) install the new lever yesterday. How important is it to take the slack out at the mid-cable adjuster? I lifted the tank, but could not find or reach this adjuster. It looks to me like I would have to take the top of the air box off to do so, which I was hoping to avoid. I moved the adjuster wheel at the master lever all the way in and put the slave lever on according to steps 3 - 8 above. The new slave lever is angled just slightly out, i.e. slightly counterclockwise from being parallel with the side of the clutch case. There is very little slack or free play, although it may conform to the 0.39" minimum travel at the master lever end as specified in the manual. Is this likely to be OK, or do I need to try to find the mid-cable adjuster so I can rotate the slave lever one more notch counterclockwise on the clutch release shaft?
 
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killernoodle

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Okay, I finally had time to (attempt to) install the new lever yesterday. How important is it to take the slack out at the mid-cable adjuster? I lifted the tank, but could not find or reach this adjuster. It looks to me like I would have to take the top of the air box off to do so, which I was hoping to avoid. I moved the adjuster wheel at the master lever all the way in and put the slave lever on according to steps 3 - 8 above. The new slave lever is angled just slightly out, i.e. slightly counterclockwise from being parallel with the side of the clutch case. There is very little slack or free play, although it may conform to the 0.39" minimum travel at the master lever end as specified in the manual. Is this likely to be OK, or do I need to try to find the mid-cable adjuster so I can rotate the slave lever one more notch counterclockwise on the clutch release shaft?

If it is out of spec, its probably easier to put the lever on the next spline rather than fiddle with the middle adjuster. It is pretty hard to get to.
 

bryanwny

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I've got to mail off another lever tomorrow, I'll ask the people at the post office if they have any idea why this happened.

Well, well. Guess what I received today? :rockon: I figured out why it didn't make it here sooner. You had a typo on the zip code -- the first number was wrong. So it was wandering aimlessly around Virginia for a while I suppose lol. Let me guess, you already mailed another one? If so, do you want me to just mail it directly to someone else? Or return it back to you?

Parts looks great, btw! Can't wait to get them installed!
 

killernoodle

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Well, well. Guess what I received today? :rockon: I figured out why it didn't make it here sooner. You had a typo on the zip code -- the first number was wrong. So it was wandering aimlessly around Virginia for a while I suppose lol. Let me guess, you already mailed another one? If so, do you want me to just mail it directly to someone else? Or return it back to you?

Parts looks great, btw! Can't wait to get them installed!

Ah crap LOL

And here I was blaming the post office that it didn't get there, meanwhile they're fixing my ****-up.

Well, at least they got there. I never mailed another one because so far I've received 0 cores from people. I've got a couple orders to fill and I can't even begin until I get at least one core.

So on that subject, if any of you first guys want $20 please ship me your original parts!
 

wolfe1down

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Killer - got my parts today. Good old Canadian customs... that's why they were held up a bit. They look great, and I will likely be installing them this weekend.

Thanks again! :thumbup:
 

SirIsaac

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...its probably easier to put the lever on the next spline rather than fiddle with the middle adjuster. It is pretty hard to get to.

Not being one to leave well enough alone, I decided I had to get at the middle adjuster. It is actually quite easy to get to - once you remove the tank and airbox :). First I adjusted it all the way in to see if I could rotate the lever one more spine counterclockwise on the clutch release shaft. That was not possible, so I screwed the middle adjuster about half-way back out, re-installed everything and did the final adjustment at the master lever adjuster. I was able to take a ride last night to test it out, and confirm the good reports. The clutch feels, well, like a normal clutch now, light with a good friction zone.

Fantastic! I've got a new tank of argon and I've got the process down to a science now, so the turnaround should be pretty quick.

I had one question I've been meaning to ask on the fabrication process. Do you attempt to align the splines in the "hub" with the new lever the same as they were aligned with the stock lever when you weld the parts together, or is it more or less random? (Hope that's clear, if not I can draw a picture.)
 

killernoodle

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Not being one to leave well enough alone, I decided I had to get at the middle adjuster. It is actually quite easy to get to - once you remove the tank and airbox :). First I adjusted it all the way in to see if I could rotate the lever one more spine counterclockwise on the clutch release shaft. That was not possible, so I screwed the middle adjuster about half-way back out, re-installed everything and did the final adjustment at the master lever adjuster. I was able to take a ride last night to test it out, and confirm the good reports. The clutch feels, well, like a normal clutch now, light with a good friction zone.



I had one question I've been meaning to ask on the fabrication process. Do you attempt to align the splines in the "hub" with the new lever the same as they were aligned with the stock lever when you weld the parts together, or is it more or less random? (Hope that's clear, if not I can draw a picture.)

The stock clutch lever has a little dot punched into the side of it that is supposed to line up with the arrow on the side of the clutch cover. I lined up the new levers with this dot, but because of a lot of variables its not extremely precise. I'm pretty sure that at the factory, the workers align the levers with the arrow and dot, then adjust the resulting slack with the middle adjuster to make the lever adjustment reasonable. Just a tiny amount off aligning and welding the lever can throw it off enough to not adjust well at the handlebar.

So yes, you can use the little dot on the side of the lever and align it with the arrow on the clutch cover, but IMO the trial and error method works just as well. Just make sure that the shaft is rotated clockwise as far as it can go before you attempt to slide the lever on, and don't put the washer and circlip on until you have everything adjusted.
 
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