FizzySix
Drunken Philosopher
Did anyone besides brianwny not get theirs? Who all got their levers already?
Mine arrived! :cheer:
I'm in Rochester, so I must be somewhat near bryanwny.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Did anyone besides brianwny not get theirs? Who all got their levers already?
Mine arrived! :cheer:
I'm in Rochester, so I must be somewhat near bryanwny.
I'm just trying to let everyone know what I know! :BLAA:
So what you're saying is you're a know it all LOL :rockon:
:cheer::cheer::cheer:
if you're still making them, i would like to order one
As far as adjustment goes, when you take the lever off you can put the new lever a spline higher on the shaft to get your adjustment back to factory.
Basically, installing the new lever goes like this:
- Install the cable hanger bracket with the cable in the 2nd(new) position.
- Screw the handlebar clutch adjustment (clockwise) and the mid-cable adjustment all the way in.
- Pull the cable at the motor as far out as it will go to pull the lever at the handlebar all the way out (we need to remove all slack in the cable, just pull it taut)
- Install the new clutch slave lever onto the cable(but not onto the splined shaft.
- Put the clutch slave return spring in place.
- Rotate the clutch input splined shaft clockwise until it stops to take the slack out of it.
- Position the new clutch slave lever over the input splined shaft and rotate it as hard counter-clockwise as you can before you slide it on the input splined shaft (this is to take all of the slack out of the cable).
- When the lever is on the input splined shaft, put the clutch slave return spring on the clutch slave lever.
- Tap the clutch slave lever all the way down and reinstall the factory washer and circlip on the splined input shaft.
- Adjust the master lever at the handlebar until the desired engagement zone is reached.
So how many people haven't got their levers yet.
Okay, I finally had time to (attempt to) install the new lever yesterday. How important is it to take the slack out at the mid-cable adjuster? I lifted the tank, but could not find or reach this adjuster. It looks to me like I would have to take the top of the air box off to do so, which I was hoping to avoid. I moved the adjuster wheel at the master lever all the way in and put the slave lever on according to steps 3 - 8 above. The new slave lever is angled just slightly out, i.e. slightly counterclockwise from being parallel with the side of the clutch case. There is very little slack or free play, although it may conform to the 0.39" minimum travel at the master lever end as specified in the manual. Is this likely to be OK, or do I need to try to find the mid-cable adjuster so I can rotate the slave lever one more notch counterclockwise on the clutch release shaft?
Still nada here man. :shakehead:
I've got to mail off another lever tomorrow, I'll ask the people at the post office if they have any idea why this happened.
Well, well. Guess what I received today? :rockon: I figured out why it didn't make it here sooner. You had a typo on the zip code -- the first number was wrong. So it was wandering aimlessly around Virginia for a while I suppose lol. Let me guess, you already mailed another one? If so, do you want me to just mail it directly to someone else? Or return it back to you?
Parts looks great, btw! Can't wait to get them installed!
I got an email and my parts are being FedEx to me and should be here friday! I'll send them to you as soon as I get here!
...its probably easier to put the lever on the next spline rather than fiddle with the middle adjuster. It is pretty hard to get to.
Fantastic! I've got a new tank of argon and I've got the process down to a science now, so the turnaround should be pretty quick.
Not being one to leave well enough alone, I decided I had to get at the middle adjuster. It is actually quite easy to get to - once you remove the tank and airbox . First I adjusted it all the way in to see if I could rotate the lever one more spine counterclockwise on the clutch release shaft. That was not possible, so I screwed the middle adjuster about half-way back out, re-installed everything and did the final adjustment at the master lever adjuster. I was able to take a ride last night to test it out, and confirm the good reports. The clutch feels, well, like a normal clutch now, light with a good friction zone.
I had one question I've been meaning to ask on the fabrication process. Do you attempt to align the splines in the "hub" with the new lever the same as they were aligned with the stock lever when you weld the parts together, or is it more or less random? (Hope that's clear, if not I can draw a picture.)