Clutch adjuster at lever not enough at full extension

[tedrogers]

Hi all,

I bought a new clutch cable about 6 months ago. Clearly the cable has been stretching over time and has settled down now, but as my clutch adjuster is at near maximum, and that the centre adjuster is as far as it will safely go whilst still being connected, I have nowhere else to go if it does stretch a bit more or I want to re-tweak the free play at the lever end.

If I could find a clutch adjuster wheel that has a longer threaded shaft, then that would work. Or maybe there is some way of adding an extra nipple at the clutch end down by the guts of the bike. I don't know if either of these things exist or are even possible to obtain. Can anyone advise? I've done a spot of searching on the tinterweb and such, but to no avail. There has to be a cheap solution to this.

I'm quite certain that the clutch cable isn't frayed either, so that's not it. The new cable was always a little longer than the stock OEM.

All advice greatly appreciated. :thumbup:

Thanks.

CORRECTION: The OEM cable frayed after 18 months, and the replacement is now 18 months old too.

 

[darius]

Sounds like the cable is shot. Was it a genuine Yamaha OEM clutch cable or an ebay cable of unknown origin perhaps?

 

[tedrogers]

Sounds like the cable is shot. Was it a genuine Yamaha OEM clutch cable or an ebay cable of unknown origin perhaps?

No it was from wemoto.com....should be fine. Like I said, it was always longer than the OEM, but now it has stretched out it's just on the limit of being too long.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No it was from wemoto.com....should be fine. Like I said, it was always longer than the OEM, but now it has stretched out it's just on the limit of being too long.

If brand new, it was ALWAYS LONGER THAN STOCK, it isn't ok.... To be stretched out in 6 months to its limits is un-believeable (and cheaply made)...As your finding out, some aftermarket (non OEM parts) are not worth it. You'll be replacing it in another 6 months if it lasts that long...

I've never seen a longer top, screw adjuster.

If you insist on keeping this cable, you can loosen the cable, remove the "C" clip on the lower clutch arm(located on the right side engine cover) and re-clock the short arm one notch. You need to lift the arm up off the shaft and reattach it to the next tighter notch. If you look at the arm and the cover, their both marked by yamaha to line up. You'll be clocking it past the alignment marks.

IMO, just get a YAMAHA OEM cable before you get stranded with a broken cable. I still have the original clutch cable on my 07 with plenty of adjustment left in it.. (I do lube it more than recommended)

 

[darius]

No it was from wemoto.com....should be fine. Like I said, it was always longer than the OEM, but now it has stretched out it's just on the limit of being too long.

I know it sucks but you got a poor quality cable there. It shouldn't stretch like that. Next time spend the extra pennies for the Yamaha cable.

 

[tedrogers]

If brand new, it was ALWAYS LONGER THAN STOCK, it isn't ok.... To be stretched out in 6 months to its limits is un-believeable (and cheaply made)...As your finding out, some aftermarket (non OEM parts) are not worth it. You'll be replacing it in another 6 months if it lasts that long...

I've never seen a longer top, screw adjuster.

If you insist on keeping this cable, you can loosen the cable, remove the "C" clip on the lower clutch arm(located on the right side engine cover) and re-clock the short arm one notch. You need to lift the arm up off the shaft and reattach it to the next tighter notch. If you look at the arm and the cover, their both marked by yamaha to line up. You'll be clocking it past the alignment marks.

IMO, just get a YAMAHA OEM cable before you get stranded with a broken cable. I still have the original clutch cable on my 07 with plenty of adjustment left in it.. (I do lube it more than recommended)

Okay, thanks for the info here. I will try what you suggest at the clutch end. I'm really surprised that you haven't seen a longer cable adjuster - gap in the market?

My original OEM Yamaha cable (on the bike from new) frayed at the lever end within 6 months, so I don't have much faith in them either to be honest.

This replacement cable has not yet frayed, but is now a shade too long having now stretched out. My OEM cable stretched out significantly too, and then it frayed. I replaced it when I noticed the fraying, rather than waiting for it to snap on me.

This is the cable I purchased:

Yamaha FZ6 Fazer S2 09 Clutch Cable Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer

If I wanted to test the cable for fraying somewhere out of sight within the sheathing, what would be the best way to go about this, preferably without removing it from the bike?

Thanks for your quick responses peeps.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When a cable frays, its usually at the barrel end. The fraying is usually helped along by the installer bending the cable / barrel end too far putting a bunch of stress right at the base of that joint. Where did your old cable fray, in the middle, at the top barrel end or ?

I suspect someone bent the snot out of the end of your cable at some point. Could have been by the local shop upon assembly of the bike after receiving it from Yamaha.

BTW, had you been lubing the cable at the specified intervals? If not, the extra drag, harder pull, would age the cable much faster. Keeping that cable lubed will extend the life considerably and make using the clutch as well, considerably easier.

Something not mentioned in the manual, put a dab of good grease on the barrel end (where it goes into the lever) and just out a little bit. If the bikes got aftermarket levers, make sure the cables work as normal without the inside rubbing (at the ends).



As for testing the cable, you can just disconnect it at the upper clutch lever. If its tight getting it off, remove the lever itself FIRST, rotate it slightly and the barrel end will fall out. At the engine short arm lever, there is a very small flat retainer (that keeps the cable from popping out if super loose). You should be able to check the cable without bending that open)

**Something I'm missing, the original cable frayed within 6 months of the bike being new, correct? The new cable is NOW 6 months old. Did you get your 09 model the beginning of 2012 as a left over??

 

[tedrogers]

When a cable frays, its usually at the barrel end. The fraying is usually helped along by the installer bending the cable / barrel end too far putting a bunch of stress right at the base of that joint. Where did your old cable fray, in the middle, at the top barrel end or ?

I suspect someone bent the snot out of the end of your cable at some point. Could have been by the local shop upon assembly of the bike after receiving it from Yamaha.

BTW, had you been lubing the cable at the specified intervals? If not, the extra drag, harder pull, would age the cable much faster. Keeping that cable lubed will extend the life considerably and make using the clutch as well, considerably easier.

Something not mentioned in the manual, put a dab of good grease on the barrel end (where it goes into the lever) and just out a little bit. If the bikes got aftermarket levers, make sure the cables work as normal without the inside rubbing (at the ends).



As for testing the cable, you can just disconnect it at the upper clutch lever. If its tight getting it off, remove the lever itself FIRST, rotate it slightly and the barrel end will fall out. At the engine short arm lever, there is a very small flat retainer (that keeps the cable from popping out if super loose). You should be able to check the cable without bending that open)

**Something I'm missing, the original cable frayed within 6 months of the bike being new, correct? The new cable is NOW 6 months old. Did you get your 09 model the beginning of 2012 as a left over??

Hi,

Come to think of it, my appreciation of time-span is all out here. I had the bike from new (and 09 plate) in early 2010, so it must have been 18 months later that the OEM one failed (at the top, near the lever). The replacement therefore must have been on 18 months too. I'm sorry, I plucked 6 months out of the air as I was writing this late last night on my cumbersome tablet computer!

The OEM was not greased at all as I recall. But the replacement is greased to hell and back (like yours).

So, is this kind of stretching normal over 18 months?

Thanks.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hi,

Come to think of it, my appreciation of time-span is all out here. I had the bike from new (and 09 plate) in early 2010, so it must have been 18 months later that the OEM one failed (at the top, near the lever). The replacement therefore must have been on 18 months too. I'm sorry, I plucked 6 months out of the air as I was writing this late last night on my cumbersome tablet computer!

The OEM was not greased at all as I recall. But the replacement is greased to hell and back (like yours).

So, is this kind of stretching normal over 18 months?

Thanks.

If it has NOT been lubed in that time frame (and the bike has been used), sure, it'll stretch. Out of curiosity, was the Yamaha cable lubed regularly, and if so, with a prsssure tool, drip tool, etc?

The owners manual calls for lubing the cables EVERY 6 MONTHS / 4000 miles.. Being your in the UK, I understand it rains there quite a bit. If the bike see's rain often, the cables need maintainance even more often for optimum performance.

Imagine running your chain 18 months without lube(more an extreme comparison obviously), it'll wear out, stretch and and need replacement considerably sooner...

As noted above, I'm on my original clutch cable, (2007 model, 15,400 miles currently) with plenty of adjustment left. And I almost always shift with the clutch (very, very rare I'll shift without it). My bike's two years older than yours, I'd be the first one to post if a Yamaha part (or any other) doesn't work as well as it should (just as an FYI).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Was the original clutch cable serviced regularly and if so what method(out of cusiosity)?

 

[tedrogers]

Was the original clutch cable serviced regularly and if so what method(out of cusiosity)?

Yes it does rain a hell of a lot here, and I ride every day, mostly in the rain or even snow, so there would be a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. Perhaps this has eroded my cable?

Serviced clutch cable? This is news to me. I usually just grease / re-grease the nipple at the lever end and inspect both ends for some wear. That is all.

How would one go about lubing the entire cable length? Can water ingress into the clutch cable to the extent that any lube already on it would be diluted / removed?

To answer your questions, I have never done any detailed servicing of either the OEM or the replacement cable, by any method (drip, pressure etc.). I just the grease / re-grease the nipple and the lever end and insect what I can see, as noted above.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes it does rain a hell of a lot here, and I ride every day, mostly in the rain or even snow, so there would be a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. Perhaps this has eroded my cable?

Serviced clutch cable? This is news to me. I usually just grease / re-grease the nipple at the lever end and inspect both ends for some wear. That is all.

How would one go about lubing the entire cable length? Can water ingress into the clutch cable to the extent that any lube already on it would be diluted / removed?

To answer your questions, I have never done any detailed servicing of either the OEM or the replacement cable, by any method (drip, pressure etc.). I just the grease / re-grease the nipple and the lever end and insect what I can see, as noted above.

Thats why your going thru cables, they need maintainance.

This is one of the tools that I use(below pic's).

I also have an older "Yamaha" single screw tool as well.

Inside the tool, there's three steps, for 3 different size cables. You clamp the tool onto the top of the cable, (its already removed from the lever) and put the pressurized cable lube into the orifice and press. The pressure goes into the cable and blows out any crap, debis, water, etc out and leaves some lubrication in there. I use both cable specific lube and chain lube with graphite.

The recommended period for maintainance is in your owners manual, with the conditions your riding in, I'd be doing it more often. Once you've done it once or twice, it won't take you 10 minutes tops, beginning to end and your cables will last YEARS LONGER...

Link for the tool:
Motion Pro Cable Luber - Street Motorcycle - Motorcycle Superstore

 

[tedrogers]

Thats why your going thru cables, they need maintainance.

This is one of the tools that I use(below pic's).

I also have an older "Yamaha" single screw tool as well.

Inside the tool, there's three steps, for 3 different size cables. You clamp the tool onto the top of the cable, (its already removed from the lever) and put the pressurized cable lube into the orifice and press. The pressure goes into the cable and blows out any crap, debis, water, etc out and leaves some lubrication in there. I use both cable specific lube and chain lube with graphite.

The recommended period for maintainance is in your owners manual, with the conditions your riding in, I'd be doing it more often. Once you've done it once or twice, it won't take you 10 minutes tops, beginning to end and your cables will last YEARS LONGER...

Link for the tool:
Motion Pro Cable Luber - Street Motorcycle - Motorcycle Superstore

Cheers Scott...that's really very helpful.

I'll do some digging around for the tool you linked to...I'd need a UK supplier ideally. I can see that a lot of mountain biking shops seem to do them.

As for the spray, will any PTFE spray suffice? Or alternatively, something we call WD-40 in the UK.

http://wd40.com/products/smart-straw/

All the best and happy riding!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No problem. They make different brands of the same tool so look around, one really isn't any better than the other.

As for using WD40 (Water Displacement), you could use it to blow the cable initially out but, its really NOT a lubricant so I would not leave it in there. I checked my "Cable Life" lubricant for ingrediants, none are specified.

You can usually get a combo kit consisting of the tool and a can of cable lube (its usually cheaper that way).

Once the cables are up to snuff, it won't take much to keep them up. I just get the larger can as I know I'll go thru it sooner or later.

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how easy the clutch lever can be, to pull..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just a quick FYI re lubing the cables..

What you'll need: some lube and a cable lube tool (one screw or
two screws)

Remove the upper cable end after turning the adjuster ALL THE WAY IN
(clockwise)

Remove the barrel end form the lever. I like to punch a small hole thru some
old newspaper and run the cable end thru there (this keeps cable lube
from spraying all over the bike).

Attach the tool onto the end of the cable sliding it to the tightest step (most
have three steps for different sized cables).

Attach your cable spray (after shaking it up good). Wrap a paper towel
around both ends as excess spray will likely come out.

Spray away! I tuck a small piece of paper towel at the lowest point of the
clutch cable as lube tends to collect there and later drip down (too
much lube may cause it to leak down and you'll later find a puddle of
weird oil under the bike((don't ask how I know)). I actually leave that
paper towel there. Its really hard to see unless your looking for it.

Re-assemble with a little grease on the barrel end where it goes into the
lever. You'll likely find you have to re-adjust the lever play once
underway as it loosens up.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Some additional pic's that wouldn't post above:

 

[tedrogers]

Some additional pic's that wouldn't post above:

Thanks Scott. Seriously, you are arguably the most helpful person on this forum. You've replied to my questions accurately, in high detail and quickly in the past, and this is no exception. Thanks a million!

I have purchased a two-screw lubing tool now, although I had to adapt my search strategy to get UK suppliers as their called "cable lubricators" over this side of the pond....a bit more formal I guess.

I'll track down some suitable spray soon, replace the cable (I bought two, just in case!) and maintain it properly this time.

Cheers mate.

 

[tedrogers]

Tiny little things aren't they? Don't know why, but I expected it to be bigger.

 

[Nelly]

Hi all,

I bought a new clutch cable about 6 months ago. Clearly the cable has been stretching over time and has settled down now, but as my clutch adjuster is at near maximum, and that the centre adjuster is as far as it will safely go whilst still being connected, I have nowhere else to go if it does stretch a bit more or I want to re-tweak the free play at the lever end.

If I could find a clutch adjuster wheel that has a longer threaded shaft, then that would work. Or maybe there is some way of adding an extra nipple at the clutch end down by the guts of the bike. I don't know if either of these things exist or are even possible to obtain. Can anyone advise? I've done a spot of searching on the tinterweb and such, but to no avail. There has to be a cheap solution to this.

I'm quite certain that the clutch cable isn't frayed either, so that's not it. The new cable was always a little longer than the stock OEM.

All advice greatly appreciated. :thumbup:

Thanks.

CORRECTION: The OEM cable frayed after 18 months, and the replacement is now 18 months old too.

I bought a non OEM cable and sent it back. It was 5cm to long and took all of the fine adjustment. I returned it. Genuine parts are the best fix for this.

Neil

 

[trepetti]

Guys...try this cable lube solution... http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-sale/35426-revolutionary-new-cable-lubricator.html

I bought a kit over the winter and it worked great! Easy and more importantly is is MESS FREE! Plus, it if made by one of our members.