Issue reattaching clutch cable after lever install

[Johnson]

Replaced my brake (yay easy) and levers however when I loosened the clutch cable at the rear of the end of the cable, I am now unable to reattach it to the clip? Tried maneuvering best I could but no luck and didn't want to pull too tight. Any ideas? I've attached a picture if that helps:


https://i.imgur.com/arnGfFI.jpg

Was hoping this would be a quick install and I would finally get to ride for the first time in months....so close yet so far away....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not sure if you replaced the clutch cable too, that info would help as the mid section adjuster may be set too WIDE.



In any event, disconnect the cable from the handle bar lever and attach at the lower engine normally.

Now, try crewing in the handlebar adjuster fully and see if the cable will NOW slip into the slot.

If it's a knats hair short (can't just quite reach it), you can remove the lever mounting bolt (the same one you removed to put the lever on).

Pull the lever off and insert the cable end.

You should be able to slip the lever back into the perch. (Don't damage the clutch lever safety switch)

If the cable play is still WAY TOO tight, your going to have to "tighten" or make SHORTER, the mid section adjuster.


***In the future, ALWAYS attach the lower end of the cable to the engine mount. Check for properly play at the lever for FUTURE ADJUSTMENT BEFORE you re-assemble everything...

You should be good after following the above...

 

[Johnson]

Did not change the cable.

Was I not suppose to remove the cable from the slot at the end? I needed more slack up top to lube the tube and thought that was the only way I could get more slack - by removing it from the slot to give it play.

It is just a hair short; not sure why I didn't think of just removing the lever (but keeping the cable in the lever correct?)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Did not change the cable. Thanks

Was I not suppose to remove the cable from the slot at the end? You can remove it (if need be at the bottom for lubing, but it needs to be installed FIRST BEFORE the handlebar lever. (and you did it correctly at the engine lever).

I needed more slack up top to lube the tube and thought that was the only way I could get more slack - by removing it from the slot to give it play. My own upper adjustment is right at 3 turns out.

With the upper "barrel" removed from the lever(adjuster turned in), you shouldn't have to touch the lower end of the cable at all..


It is just a hair short; not sure why I didn't think of just removing the lever (but keeping the cable in the lever correct?)

Yes, remove the lever, put the cable barrel in the LEVER. Turn the lever (as if in the normal position), then slip it in the perch and bolt together normally.


If you have a helper, pushing in the "engine end lever" (cable attached normally), will give you more cable play. That lever will move a bit inwards towards the engine giving you more cable play..

 

[mgdaubo]

I just had the same problem yesterday.

I removed the cable end from the clutch lever (on left handlebar). After fixing some minor scratches on the lever, I removed the cable end at the lower lever (engine), then assemble the cable end of upper side to the handlebar lever. Then I was very surprise the lower end can't reach the lower lever anymore, lack of about 5mm.

I figured out the reason: the lower lever is very hard and not possible to move by hand. With the cable not attach to it, I can move the lever but that is only the area when the clutch is fully engaged. To pull the lever to "disengage area" I had to use the wrench to somehow extend the lever... Push the lever by using wrench, then the cable end can reach the clip as it was before.

Hope this help.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Unless your re-adjusting (mid section adjuster) OR replacing the clutch cable, there is NO reason to even touch the engine arm/cable at that end, PERIOD..


** Also, if the outer cable is just short of pulling/putting into the handlebar adjuster, put the end of the cable (outside housing) UP AGAINST the adjuster and PULL the lever.

It WILL GET TIGHT (your now activating the clutch ((dis-engagement)) and give you some more cable to work with), and then quickly slip the clutch cable INTO THE ADJUSTER fully.

Works every time.


.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I removed the cable end from the clutch lever (on left handlebar). After fixing some minor scratches on the lever, I removed the cable end at the lower lever (engine), then assemble the cable end of upper side to the handlebar lever. .

Why did you even mess with the lower end of the cable? There's no adjustment...Just curious..

 

[mgdaubo]

Why did you even mess with the lower end of the cable? There's no adjustment...Just curious..

Yes now I know I should not.

But yesterday while re-assembling the cable end, because the lower arm was pulling the cable, I though it would be easier to remove that end, assemble the clutch lever end, then push that arm in and assemble that end. But then I was surprise as mentioned above.

Anyways now after lubricating and re-assembling, my clutch works great. Just remember to lube the cable, very much different than before

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Lubing regularly makes a big difference...

Just to add, after I lubed my cable, I still "felt" binding (cable NOT hooked up).

This is what I found:






So ANY binding, even after lubing, your cable is probably toast.

BTW, my cables are always lubed, this cable had about 20,000 miles on it..

 

[mgdaubo]

Just to add, after I lubed my cable, I still "felt" binding (cable NOT hooked up).

This is what I found:

Scott, did you remove that thin plastic cover around the cable?

Mine came bad so I removed it. So far so good now but not sure how the cable will last without that.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When I FELT the binding (both ends in-hooked, just lubed), I knew something was wrong.

Ordered a new cable (arrived in about two days) and yanked the old one.

Cut the barrel end off (at the handlebar lever end) and what you see is how it came out. I didn't separate anything.

That short piece of clear "tubing", helps take up the stress of the cable at the sharp turn. New, it's plastic against plastic, NO metal against metal, that is until it starts to fail / fail...

As you can see, that cable didn't have a couple days left on it, maybe......

In 44 years of wrenching on bikes, I've never seen a cable come apart as such. Yes, barrel ends break and come off but the damage is ONLY over that entire curve).

 

[Johnson]

Unless your re-adjusting (mid section adjuster) OR replacing the clutch cable, there is NO reason to even touch the engine arm/cable at that end, PERIOD..


** Also, if the outer cable is just short of pulling/putting into the handlebar adjuster, put the end of the cable (outside housing) UP AGAINST the adjuster and PULL the lever.

It WILL GET TIGHT (your now activating the clutch ((dis-engagement)) and give you some more cable to work with), and then quickly slip the clutch cable INTO THE ADJUSTER fully.

Works every time.


.

When you say the adjuster is this different than the free play adjuster or the same thing?

Right now turning that giant dial does nothing. I ended up taking the lever out but misread what you said and also took the clutch out of the lever but now I had enough play to reattach at engine end but not at the lever. So should I: 1. Unattach at engine end, 2. reattach at lever end, 3. Attach at engine end. 4. Remount the lever.

Currently it is just very snug at the lever end and the dial does nothing. I can pull it out slightly but not enough play to reattach to the lever, hence was wondering if there is some other adjuster I am missing?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When you say the adjuster is this different than the free play adjuster or the same thing? There is a "mid section adjuster" that you probably haven't even seen (next to the air box/frame). The only other adjuster is at the lever.


Right now turning that giant dial does nothing. That large round adjuster, with the slot SHOULD SPIN inwards AND OUTWARDs. If it doesn't, something stripped and needs replacement


I ended up taking the lever out but misread what you said and also took the clutch out of the lever but now I had enough play to reattach at engine end but not at the lever. It, no questions, NEED TO BE ATTACHED AT THE ENGINE FIRST, ATTACH IT AND forget that end..

So should I: 1. Unattach at engine end, NO

2. reattach at lever end, Re-attach the cable barrel to the lever (lever OFF), then slip into the perch..

3. Attach at engine end. YES, FIRST THING, then leave it alone.

4. Remount the lever. See above


Currently it is just very snug at the lever end and the dial does nothing. As stated earlier, that dial should spin and outwards (taking up slack).



I can pull it out slightly but not enough play to reattach to the lever, hence was wondering if there is some other adjuster I am missing?

Someone can push the engine lever inwards (CABLE END ALWAYS INSTALLED) for some more play.

Please confirm that the round/slotted handlebar adjuster does or does NOT turn inwards and outwards...

If it does and nothing else has changed, that NEW lever is apparently machined differently than the stock lever.

Part #1 is the clutch cable: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2005/fz6-fzs6t/steering-handle-cable
Look closely and you'll see an adjuster in the middle of the cable This is NOT usually adjusted but once or twice in the cables lifetime.

With the new lever, (*being everything else is correct*), you may have to adjust that cable for MORE SLACK.

You can access the mid section adjuster but its a bit of a PIA. There a plastic zip tie (follow the cable) that attaches the cable to the inside of the frame.

You can cut that off (really not needed), then slide the entire cable towards the engine- does NOT have to removed-STOP when the upper end meets the frame hole. You'll NOW have access to that mid section adjuster.

Being the cable is too tight, you need to adjust it so it's SHORTER-IE, more play in the cable..

If you want to call me later tonight, PM me and I'll give you my # or vice versa and walk you thru it.

I think the above should clear things up for you..

 

[Johnson]

Someone can push the engine lever inwards (CABLE END ALWAYS INSTALLED) for some more play.

Please confirm that the round/slotted handlebar adjuster does or does NOT turn inwards and outwards...

If it does and nothing else has changed, that NEW lever is apparently machined differently than the stock lever.

Part #1 is the clutch cable: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2005/fz6-fzs6t/steering-handle-cable
Look closely and you'll see an adjuster in the middle of the cable This is NOT usually adjusted but once or twice in the cables lifetime.

With the new lever, (*being everything else is correct*), you may have to adjust that cable for MORE SLACK.

You can access the mid section adjuster but its a bit of a PIA. There a plastic zip tie (follow the cable) that attaches the cable to the inside of the frame.

You can cut that off (really not needed), then slide the entire cable towards the engine- does NOT have to removed-STOP when the upper end meets the frame hole. You'll NOW have access to that mid section adjuster.

Being the cable is too tight, you need to adjust it so it's SHORTER-IE, more play in the cable..

If you want to call me later tonight, PM me and I'll give you my # or vice versa and walk you thru it.

I think the above should clear things up for you..

I won't be able to get to it tonight to look closer but I know the handle bar adjuster rotates and the slotted line rotates but again I don't believe it did anything to the free play of the cable. The end of the cable is just peaking out at the end of the tube and only way to get slack is to pull on it with pliers.

I did get those shorty levers from ebay that you warned me about (had a hand injury and thought they would help) so possible they do not fit compared to stock lever but I was not aware of mid section adjuster so will play with that when I get a chance.

Although looking at the price of a clutch cable, perhaps I should just get a new one. The previous owner replaced it a "few years" ago when I got it a year and a half although I did not realize I was supposed to be lubing it and I've put about 10K miles on it.

Thanks again for your help Scott

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

"Rotates" as in screws both IN and OUTWARDS?

If the inner cable is NOW that short, somethings NOT seated fully. The only thing it could really be is the bracket bolted to the engine, the cable is NOT fully in the bracket (pic #2).

The first picture, if you look close, are TWO MARKINGs that should line up when assembled correctly. (This is my bike just now, clutch adjusted correctly). I can push THAT lower lever in MAYBE, 1/8" before any tension(clutch starts to dis-engage). That should not have moved when all done and ready to ride.....





The engine mounting bracket, make sure the clutch cable is fully seated:
(The white paper towel in the back round is to catch excess clutch cable lube)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates???

 

[Johnson]

Fixed it! Not sure what I was doing wrong the first time but was able to finagle/orient in without having to touch the midsection adjuster. So although there was just enough play to loop the head into lever it brings me back to why I orginally loosened it from the engine. How is one supposed to lube the clutch cable without loosening it as it does not seem to have enough play to attach motion pro cable luber?

I did manage to take it for a quick spin and did notice that whirling/siren sound I had previously experienced in another thread so perhaps I'll repost in that again.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Fixed it! Not sure what I was doing wrong the first time but was able to finagle/orient in without having to touch the midsection adjuster. So although there was just enough play to loop the head into lever it brings me back to why I orginally loosened it from the engine. How is one supposed to lube the clutch cable without loosening it as it does not seem to have enough play to attach motion pro cable luber?

.

I use the same luber and have plenty of room. Maybe an extra inch of cable.

Might just have to pull the slack out of the inner cable as the lower engine lever is pulling cable away from the top...
Never thought much about it, never had an issue lubing it...

Glad it's fixed!

 

[Johnson]

I use the same luber and have plenty of room. Maybe an extra inch of cable.

Might just have to pull the slack out of the inner cable as the lower engine lever is pulling cable away from the top...
Never thought much about it, never had an issue lubing it...

Glad it's fixed!

You simply remove the cable from the lever and pull on and clamp down the luber attachment? Hmm seems simple enough

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes, ^^^

Also, for the adjuster to be about half ways out, it's about 3 full turns. At that setting, it IS TAUGHT when removing the outer cable from the lever.

What I do is turn the adjuster all the way in, pull IN the clutch lever, then release pulling the outside sheath. It'll clear much easier..


To re-install, basically the same BUT put the out side sheath up against the round part of the adjuster and pull the clutch lever.
That'll give you a little more cable to easily slip back into the perch..

Lastly, a little bit of grease inside the lever, where the cable barrel goes helps the plastic barrel from wearing / tearing.