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You set up does NOT require a new nut BUT a new locking washer (with the tabs bent up), should be replaced.
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clicky/crunchy noise when accelerating from stop
You set up does NOT require a new nut BUT a new locking washer (with the tabs bent up), should be replaced.
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Any better with oil on the chain?
zixaq
Elite Member
Sadly, no. Some white graphite is on it's way, but I'm deciding what to do about the sprockets and if I want to replace the chain with them.
I'm honestly leaning toward replacing the whole mess with the DID kit (which includes JT sprockets, interestingly), but my bank account disagrees with the throw-parts-at-it approach.
I'm also super confused about the rubber bumper on the OEM sprocket, and what the F*** it's for, since no aftermarket sprocket maker seems to find it important.
edit: Oh, the tension did stay put this time, so maybe I had just tightened up something inadequately the few times before, or maybe the bad lube was making the chain stretch super fast? The noise persists though. It's dead-on at just under 2 inches on the center stand.
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I believe that plastic ring keeps it a little quieter up front.
Is the chain pictured on post #12 the current one, lubed with the wax?
Honestly, for 4,000 miles, it "looks" much older than that. IME, as noted, the wax doesn't work nearly as well,
IE, that chain, (IME), probably has more than 4,000 miles on it, (actual wear-by using wax)...
If you can swing it, I would replace the entire set.
(I am very anal about my chain and like FinalImpact, lube no less than every 200 miles)
With this chain having low miles on it, I think you'd be ok riding it more till you can afford the set.
This chain doesn't have 33,000 miles on it (which I would NOT trust). That's what would let loose
(not the sprockets) if something were to fail.. Just tolerate the noise for now.
*It won't hurt anything, just faster wear on this current chain with the worn sprockets (and the noise)
Is the chain pictured on post #12 the current one, lubed with the wax?
Honestly, for 4,000 miles, it "looks" much older than that. IME, as noted, the wax doesn't work nearly as well,
IE, that chain, (IME), probably has more than 4,000 miles on it, (actual wear-by using wax)...
If you can swing it, I would replace the entire set.
(I am very anal about my chain and like FinalImpact, lube no less than every 200 miles)
With this chain having low miles on it, I think you'd be ok riding it more till you can afford the set.
This chain doesn't have 33,000 miles on it (which I would NOT trust). That's what would let loose
(not the sprockets) if something were to fail.. Just tolerate the noise for now.
*It won't hurt anything, just faster wear on this current chain with the worn sprockets (and the noise)
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zixaq
Elite Member
Related (I think) question:
How much slack should there be in the cush drive? I know the damper design on our bikes is a little unusual, but mine fall out every time I take the wheel off. There's not much resistance.
How much slack should there be in the cush drive? I know the damper design on our bikes is a little unusual, but mine fall out every time I take the wheel off. There's not much resistance.
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Falling out is not unusual. When assembled, there's no place for them to go.
(IE, they don't need to be hammered into place and should fall in snuggly with the sprocket carrier).
They simply lessen the clunk especially when shifting into first.
You should NOT be able to, by hand, rotate the sprocket assembly/cush drive when installed in the wheel...
If their dry rotted, obviously worn, I'd replace them. Rubber does harden over time...
Ital
Member
I've been using DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver Dry Self-Cleaning Lubricant to lube my chain. Is that not good?
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Just looked it up, its WAXE BASE also:
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y
Ital
Member
yes it is WAXE based but why that is not good?
you can ignore the above comment read your previous post as you said it rusted the chain for you. Man this thing got amazing review though... More research needed.. Thanks
you can ignore the above comment read your previous post as you said it rusted the chain for you. Man this thing got amazing review though... More research needed.. Thanks
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Ital
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Nice video, BUT how well does it lubricate??
The Motul chain wax I used years ago (at least 15 years ago-forgot if it was an o-ring chain or not-KLR 250), apparently did NOT
get between the rollers and pins, did NOT lubricate, thus the rust INTERNALLY, which become visible over time...
Obviously, feel free to use it, especially if your happy with it.
It should be noted that per the owners manual, after RIDING in the RAIN, the chain should be re-lubed.
Just posting my experience with wax (43 years riding/wrenching).
Ital
Member
I think a lot has changed over the years. Supposedly this new Teflon wax cleaner is o-ring safe. I plan to clean the chain with kerosene this week-end and use this stuff... I like that it is not messy. I am no bike expert but this stuff got thousand of reviews with almost a 5 star rating. I hear you though, if I had a bad experience with a product I would not use it as well.
zixaq
Elite Member
So the bike got some attention on a bunch of little stuff this weekend and the chain was thoroughly cleaned (Honda Pro Cleaner) and re-lubed (Honda chain lube w/ white graphite) and adjusted to spec. Noise persists.
I'm pretty sure I have exhausted all the options that don't involve new parts, so a new sprocket is in my immediate future. I just need to decide whether to replace the chain along with it.
Also, I kept track of where the swingarm was at through the last two adjustments, and the chain is stretching, because the axle is not moving.
I'm pretty sure I have exhausted all the options that don't involve new parts, so a new sprocket is in my immediate future. I just need to decide whether to replace the chain along with it.
Also, I kept track of where the swingarm was at through the last two adjustments, and the chain is stretching, because the axle is not moving.
I ran the dupont chain saver product applying 2 full cans of it over one summer and switched out to a petroleum product as the final drive was loud as hell. I had to apply the stuff every 200 miles. It never rusted but with such a thin layer of **protection** (if you can call it that) it was just dry and loud. The rollers always kinda rattled on the chain and with many of our weekend runs in the 350 mile range, it was dry as whiskey glass after closing time!
The product I replaced it with is messy and flings. But its free HP and the chain is protected.
My review of the Dumonde Tech BHP product
The product I replaced it with is messy and flings. But its free HP and the chain is protected.
My review of the Dumonde Tech BHP product
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Read your review above.. Interesting re the excess amount flowing out.
What I did to keep the plastic application tube from spraying where I DON'T WANT IT, is to shorten and curl it hard, till it stays at a 90 degree bend.
Might be 3" long, just long enough to reach where it needs to. To help stiffen up the tube, I also put heat shrink around the tube which stiffened it up a bit as well.
Some prudence with the application finger is still needed, but no where's near like before. I don't have to wipe ANY excess of the bike when done, just a quick wipe of the chain to get any excess.
I don't get ANY fling on the wheel, just a knats hair, on the bottom of the exhaust after 2-3 applications..
zixaq
Elite Member
I don't think my stretching chain problem is due to bad lube, but rather due to mounting on a worn front sprocket (and possibly just a bad chain). I mean, I had been using the same lube on the old chain for 15,000 miles, and that chain already had 18k on it when I started (still factory chain). This new one was a JT Sprockets x-ring chain, which I grabbed because I had heard positive things about the brand and it cost 30-50% as much as a DID VX chain. FWIW, JT sprockets provide the sprockets in the DID kit for our bikes, which I just picked up to replace the whole final drive.
Sticking with the 530 chain and factory gearing for now. I don't think changing teeth makes sense for my use case
Sticking with the 530 chain and factory gearing for now. I don't think changing teeth makes sense for my use case
zixaq
Elite Member
New chain (DID VX line) and sprockets (JT) from a DID kit mounted yesterday. Two things:
1. It's a whole new bike. I didn't realize how much the drivetrain lash had been making me insane.
2. The weird clicky noise still persists, although it is much more subtle than before. ****.
I had a couple people at the shop tell me they thought the front sprocket still had life in it and the rear sprocket looked fine, but I was going nuclear to try to fix this, and the rate the old chain was stretching was kinda freaking me out, too. (Adjustments every few hundred miles. Was 2/3 of the way through it's adjustment range after just under 6k.)
I dunno. I don't think the cush drive is out of spec, based on what I've heard/read. Could it be something in the clutch? The clutch cable was put on new when I bought the bike, but that was 20k miles ago now. It also needs adjusted at the middle, but that apparently requires pulling the airbox and battery, which is hugely annoying, and it's still reasonable with the handlebar side adjuster most of the way out.
1. It's a whole new bike. I didn't realize how much the drivetrain lash had been making me insane.
2. The weird clicky noise still persists, although it is much more subtle than before. ****.
I had a couple people at the shop tell me they thought the front sprocket still had life in it and the rear sprocket looked fine, but I was going nuclear to try to fix this, and the rate the old chain was stretching was kinda freaking me out, too. (Adjustments every few hundred miles. Was 2/3 of the way through it's adjustment range after just under 6k.)
I dunno. I don't think the cush drive is out of spec, based on what I've heard/read. Could it be something in the clutch? The clutch cable was put on new when I bought the bike, but that was 20k miles ago now. It also needs adjusted at the middle, but that apparently requires pulling the airbox and battery, which is hugely annoying, and it's still reasonable with the handlebar side adjuster most of the way out.
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I had a very slight clicking (original rear sprocket-which looked new, 20,000+ miles) when moving the in bike in the garage.
Swore it was the rear wheel bearings / cush bearing. Ordered and replaced bearings (which looked/felt good)-NO change.
Changed the rear sprocket-FIXED!
You could not see the difference in the wear..
Re the clutch cable, likely not the issue however I caught mine right before it failed:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...30-clutch-lever-hard-pull-fix.html#post630325
Couple things.
Are you using chain wax or regular petroleum lube?
Also, is the chain play, TOTAL, UP and DOWN 2" while on the CC checked at the tightest point?
.
.
Swore it was the rear wheel bearings / cush bearing. Ordered and replaced bearings (which looked/felt good)-NO change.
Changed the rear sprocket-FIXED!
You could not see the difference in the wear..
Re the clutch cable, likely not the issue however I caught mine right before it failed:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...30-clutch-lever-hard-pull-fix.html#post630325
Couple things.
Are you using chain wax or regular petroleum lube?
Also, is the chain play, TOTAL, UP and DOWN 2" while on the CC checked at the tightest point?
.
.
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