Hiccup in power delivery accelerating in 2nd. very troubling.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

[said in your best Yoda voice]

Stubborn is he.

Yepper, let him tear it down for nothing...

Gotta wonder why they even ask.... Oh well, we'll see..

 

[zixaq]

Well I'm finally able to start troubleshooting the problem, but now I can't replicate it?

C'est la vie

I mean, I'm glad my bike isn't doing the weird thing anymore, but having problems just vanish is kinda spooky and I mistrust it.

 

[Motogiro]

Well I'm finally able to start troubleshooting the problem, but now I can't replicate it?

C'est la vie

I mean, I'm glad my bike isn't doing the weird thing anymore, but having problems just vanish is kinda spooky and I mistrust it.

Were you able to actually get out and ride the bike? I thought you had broken ribs?

 

[zixaq]

Were you able to actually get out and ride the bike? I thought you had broken ribs?

Yep, back in the saddle, although I'm pretty rusty and a bit sore and weak from being laid up for six weeks.

Need to build up my stamina again and make sure the bike isn't hiding problems. Hoping to do a bit of a cross-country trek this summer.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Electrical connections, switches, with issues, can come and go until eventually failing completely..

Most mechanical (hard parts) issues (say a missing tooth in the gear box), don't come and go, it'll keep "skipping" until the gear gets torn up more or destroys the other gear it mesh's with..

 

[zixaq]

I'm not pretending that I can puzzle out how it doesn't work, but I'm 90% sure that you were right about the kill switch.

I never did get to properly troubleshoot, but the bike decided to just up and die halfway to work yesterday with obviously electrical symptoms. Walked over and mucked about with the kill switch today and found a corroded contact that looks deformed. Cleaned it up as best I could and got fizzer home, but I don't terribly trust it yet. I'm going to see if I can find a stiffer spring or bind the thing together somehow so it makes a more reliable connection.

So, I definitely have a kill switch problem. Hopefully that was also the source of the other problem.

It almost looked scorched, like there was a spark jumping there. Anyone know offhand what the voltage & current through that switch is?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No more than 12 volts...

If you simply soldier the wires together, you can bypass the switch altogether.
Even if just for testing..

You can't buy the switch alone, you have to purchase the entire rt hand control...

As noted earlier, the kill switch is a weak link IF used often- As you've now discovered...

 

[zixaq]

No more than 12 volts...

If you simply soldier the wires together, you can bypass the switch altogether.
Even if just for testing..

You can't buy the switch alone, you have to purchase the entire rt hand control...

As noted earlier, the kill switch is a weak link IF used often- As you've now discovered...

Overuse doesn't seem to be a requirement for failure.

 

[Motogiro]

The run\kill switch supplies current to the coils of the relays in the starter cut off circuit and to the ignition coils. One starter cut off circuit relay powers the fuel injectors and fuel pump and one starter cut off relay allows the starter circuit operation. Most of the current from the kill switch is used by the ignition coils but it also supplies low current to the 2 relay coils in the starter cut off circuit assembly. The ECU can also tell this kill switch is open because there is no voltages on the negative side of those relays or the the negative side of the ignition coils. This is one way logic can be developed to give error codes from the ECU regarding ignition coil primary winding open conditions.

 

[zixaq]

Apparently you haven't read NINE years of failures of that switch, MOST of which the switch was used very often.....

There have been DOZENS of threads with exactly the same symptoms and fixes as yours, but I guess that means squat...

I'm not sure I understand your response. I was just trying to add information. I don't ever use the kill switch and it fried anyway. Maybe my skepticism was coming across as ungrateful? If so that wasn't my intention. Your input is appreciated, I was just voicing that this is a weird problem.

In any case, I found a knocked-about used unit that I can salvage the switch components out of as spares. I'll let you know if I come up with any solution to make it more resilient. I'd prefer not to disable the switch as a fix. Either way I will be yanking it apart to clean and service every couple oil changes.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My mistake... I thought you used the switch OFTEN.

I re-read the first page and you posted you don't (which in almost all cases, riders DID use the switch often before the failure).

Please disregard the previous post.

Thank you for the additional information as your about the first (that I've read of) with a failure of a switch rarely used..

 

[trepetti]

My mistake... I thought you used the switch OFTEN.

I re-read the first page and you posted you don't (which in almost all cases, riders DID use the switch often before the failure).

Please disregard the previous post.

Thank you for the additional information as your about the first (that I've read of) with a failure of a switch rarely used..

Glad to see this got resolved. All of the post-solution tension aside, i am reminded that we learn best when we start out wrong. And to do that means we must first challenge advice.

Thanks to all here, but especially to those few wise sages that seem to never give up until the issue is solved.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[zixaq]

So while I did have a kill switch problem (twice), the original problem that started this thread is apparently caused by something else.

My bike did this again today. Again, WOT in 2nd and it popped off and on momentarily. My kill switch is completely bypassed now (and yes, the connection is soldered properly and sealed).

Other ideas?

 

[swedespeed]

Ignition related? I know my ignition coils are going bad on my car when it starts hesitating/bucking under load. Of course it's no FZ6 so there's that. Probably not though since it only happens to you in 2nd at WOT? Just an idea.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Jeez.. Sorry to hear it...

Anyway, I'd check the side stand switch. You can disassemble using a stool right next to the switch. It's pretty easy to inspect, re-grease..

If that isn't it, time to start checking (un-plug, clean, put some dielectric grease in connectors) connectors.

Then plugs, plug caps, coils (grounds as well for coils).

 

[zixaq]

Well, whatever the problem was, it's moot now. My bottom end exploded today. 2" diameter hole in the front of my crank case.


Now, to hunt for another FZ so I can swap all my suspension/brake upgrades onto it, or just find something else? I have two months before I'm moving halfway across the country, and I THOUGHT I'd be riding my bike there.

 

[Motogiro]

Crap! Was there a warning or did it just let go?

 

[zixaq]

Crap! Was there a warning or did it just let go?

There has been a weird noise for a few thousand miles that I've been trying to chase down with local help. Had eliminated CCT and just pulled the exhaust and replaced gaskets to check. Took it out to test if the noise was gone and kablooey.

 

[swedespeed]

There has been a weird noise for a few thousand miles that I've been trying to chase down with local help. Had eliminated CCT and just pulled the exhaust and replaced gaskets to check. Took it out to test if the noise was gone and kablooey.

Wow. Didn't think that was common with this engine. Sorry to hear that! Post a pic of the carnage.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Do you have photos? Maybe we can learn something from this.