Check engine light at high RPMs

[darth47]

The green plug is the power supply to the pump and the white plug is for the gauge... Was there any soldering involved in the re crimping?


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[Nelly]

The green plug is the power supply to the pump and the white plug is for the gauge... Was there any soldering involved in the re crimping?


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None at all, I managed to feed the wire into the connection and bend the contacts over with the screwdriver. I have put 8000 trouble free miles on the bike since.

Nelly


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[darth47]

You can do either the battery or the rectifier. I would opt for the rectifier and use the RED and BLACK. Ignore the white wires as those are straight from the stator windings.



Gather info in DC volts for idle and step up to 2000 and 3000, and then the problem area(s) >4000 RPMs.



Set meter to AC volts and repeat the same RPM ranges.



FWIW:

Hello,

I was able to get a multimeter and measure voltages across the red and black terminals of the rectifier. This is a summary of my results:
Multimeter in V DC
Idle (1100-1200rpm) 12.5 -13.8v
2k rpm: 14v
3k rpm: 17-18v
4k & > : 18v
Back to idle: 13.5-14v

Multimeter in v AC

From idle to 4k rpm < 0.009v AC after which it showed zero even when the resolution was set to 2v.






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[darth47]

None at all, I managed to feed the cats ire into the connection and bend the contacts over with the screwdriver. I have put 8000 trouble free miles on the bike since.

Nelly


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Hi, I used the multimeter to test the voltage across the connector for the fuel gauge and the fuel pump (With the key in the on position but the engine off), I got 11.5-12v on the multimeter for the fuel gauge and then connected to the fuel pump connector and turned the key to the off position and then on again, I got 12v while it made that whirring sound and then zero when the whirring sound went of. I guess the connections are ok... I wonder if the blinking gauge is causing the MIL lamp to go off... Or if there is a problem with the pump...


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[Nelly]

How many times is it blinking. If the wire is lose it blinks about 6 or 8 times then pauses for a few seconds before recycling.

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[darth47]

It blinks 8 times then a pause for 2-3secs and starts blinking again...


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[FinalImpact]

Hello,

I was able to get a multimeter and measure voltages across the red and black terminals of the rectifier. This is a summary of my results:
Multimeter in V DC
Idle (1100-1200rpm) 12.5 -13.8v
2k rpm: 14v
3k rpm: 17-18v
4k & > : 18v
Back to idle: 13.5-14v

Multimeter in v AC

From idle to 4k rpm < 0.009v AC after which it showed zero even when the resolution was set to 2v.

WOW!!! mo wonder the MIL/CEL lamp is on. The system is NOT designed to run on 18V! That can compromise just about every electrical part on the bike. Have you had to replace any incandescent lamps in the time the R6 regulator has been on there? Has this bike been jump started from a running car and/or charged from a running car?

LED's can handle the high voltage as they run on current, incandescent lamps and ECU will not survive long at those voltages. Note: that would also boil a lead acid battery dry. That's crazy high unregulated voltage you have there.

At a glance I don't see how the stator coils could be at fault so I'd say NO MORE RUNNING ENGINE/RIDDING until RR is replaced.

The RR is rated at 14V. Why mine is 14.3v is not known and yours at 18V = YIKES!
AC magneto
Model/manufacturer F5VX/MORIC
Stator coil resistance 0.22–0.34 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
Standard output 14.0 V310 W5000 r/min

So the question is

 

[darth47]

Wow, thanks... I was worried when I saw the 18v at high RPMs... I've parked the bike since Thursday, I just started it this morning to do this test... I'm waiting for the oem rectifier to get here and then I'll swap it out. Unfortunately, I'm going offshore next week and won't be back for a month. When I get back and change out the rectifier, I'll give an update.

I have HID headlamps not incandescent bulbs, my brake lightbulb however is stock and burnt out... I just changed them today...

I haven't started the bike with a car battery, I just got a brand new yuasa battery... I hope it isn't fried already...

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[FinalImpact]

This is very strange. Most of the time electrical parts that handle high current are either 100% ok or completely failing. So this is either an application issue or a partial failure.
Its rectifying AC to DC which is good as you detected no AC output. However, the "regulator" is not clamping the voltage at 14v. In this case it *appears* the shunt regulator is blown open as the energy above 14v is not being dumped into the shunt as heat.

As for your HIDs many are spec'd at 24v so they may be unaffected by this....

Also as you get closer to the battery it will drop some voltage as its a load. Could you repeat DC test right at the battery? Also, does the CEL come on from a quick zing to 8k?


EDIT: [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION] does this meet the criteria of shunt being cooked open?

 

[darth47]

This is very strange. Most of the time electrical parts that handle high current are either 100% ok or completely failing. So this is either an application issue or a partial failure.
Its rectifying AC to DC which is good as you detected no AC output. However, the "regulator" is not clamping the voltage at 14v. In this case it *appears* the shunt regulator is blown open as the energy above 14v is not being dumped into the shunt as heat.

As for your HIDs many are spec'd at 24v so they may be unaffected by this....

Also as you get closer to the battery it will drop some voltage as its a load. Could you repeat DC test right at the battery? Also, does the CEL come on from a quick zing to 8k?


EDIT: [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION] does this meet the criteria of shunt being cooked open?

I did the test at the battery and still got 13-14v at idle and once I roll on the throttle the voltage increases to 15-16v depending on the RPMs (I didn't go too high too long for fear of frying something). Once I roll on the throttle, it comes on before it gets to 4k RPMs the CEL light comes on regardless of the rate at which I roll on the throttle.


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[darth47]

I got home yesterday and replaced the rectifier/regulator with OEM RR, changed out the fuel pump assy to fix the blinking gauge issue and everything is ok now, no check engine lights at 7k RPMs, fuel gauge is no longer blinking and my smile has been on for some hours now!!

Thanks to all for their support and help, much appreciated guys! :thumbup:

 

[darth47]

Old stuff out, old fuel pump assy, burnt fz6 RR, R6 RR giving high DC voltages and tripping of the MIL/CEL...


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